★★★ Sweet Nightmare (Link-Up) 17

Contexte de la cotation : AU
Longueur: 130m
Spits: 12
Longueurs: 5
Ascensions: 257

Accès: Parking meters have been installed

Blue Mountains City Council has installed parking meters at Sublime Point in December 2023. If you are not a resident of the Blue Mtns LGA the costs are $12/hour or $38/day if you download the Paystay app and purchase a daypass. You cannot purchase a day pass from the meter - you must use the app (which takes several minutes to configure once downloaded). Time limits are 12 hours. We understand these rates are very steep and you may wish to park further down the road for free. Try and avoid parking on grass lawns and be careful not to cause traffic issues by blocking this narrow road with larger vans. ACANSW has been in discussions with Blue Mtns City Council about the possibility of cheaper parking rates. This will not be resolved until early 2024 at earliest.

Détails de l'alerte et commentaires

A ajouté Il y a 5 mois

description

A link-up of Sweet Dreams into Saccharine Nightmare that creates a sport climbers version of Sweet Dreams - giving slightly harder climbing and a lot more bolts. You will still need a couple of cams for Sweet Dreams pitch 2.

20m (13) Pitch 1 of Sweet Dreams (ring bolts + slings)
30m (12) Pitch 2 of Sweet Dreams (cams - no bolts)
30m (12) Pitch 3 of Sweet Dreams to end of traverse and double RB belay. Continue past the first set of DRB to the second set 8m further. (ring bolts)
35m (17) Pitch 3 of Saccharine Nightmare (12 ringbolts)
10m (14) Pitch 4 of Saccharine Nightmare (3 ringbolts)

Historique de la voie

There is no known route history.

Alertes

16 Dec 2023	Protections: ~~Left anchor ring loose pitch 3~~ Résolu
6 Dec 2023	Alerte Accès: Parking meters have been installed

Localisation

Lat/Lon: -33.73435, 150.33704

Certains contenus ont été fournis sous licence de : © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)

Citation de la cotation

17	Cotation(s) agréée(s) par la communauté
	★★★private
14,11,12,17,15	★★Francois Pieterse
17 [16 - 17]	grAId
14, 14, 18, 14	★★★Jason Morton

éthique

Sublime Point is an old climbing area, with many routes dating from the 1950s and 1960s. Aid and mixed climbing was the fashion then, and the easier routes can be pretty bold for a modern climber. In the last 10 years there have been a lot of well protected sport routes added. This has been seen as controversial by some climbers who consider the crag a 'mixed' climbing venue.

hérité de West Face (Main Area)

Saison

Qualité

Super classique
Classique
Excellent
Bon
Dans la moyenne
Pas la peine
Pourrie

Overall quality 81 from 143 ratings.

Difficulté - 17

Plutôt facile
Facile
Dans la moyenne
Difficile
Piège

Sur base d'évaluations 8.

Cotation recommandée

17
18

Sur base d'évaluations 8.

Types de croix

À vue	53	53
Flash	4	4
Après travail	27	27
Moulinette	1	1
Croix	73	73
Essai	5	5
Objectif	2	2

Mot-clé des commentaires

sustained overhung pumped solid crux hard tough fall exposed perfect brilliant good exciting pleasant incredible stoked fantastic great sweet super fun awesome rad cool nice amazing classic beautiful enjoyable reachy steep epic feet hands cruisy jugs rest slabby flake face short traverse easy

Selected Guidebooks plus Cacher

Blue Mountains Climbing Guide

Auteur·e·s: Simon Carter

Date: 2019

ISBN: 9780958079082

The latest comprehensive, latest and greatest Blue Mountains Climbing Guide is here and it has more routes than you can poke a clip stick at! 3421 to be exact. You are not going to get bored.

Acheter

ⓘ

Best Of The Blue Blue Mountains Select Guide

Auteur·e·s: Simon Carter

Date: 2019

ISBN: 9780958079075

Simon Carter's "Best of the Blue" is the latest selected climbing guide book for the Blue Mountains and covers 1000 routes and 19 different climbing areas. For all the sport climbers out there, the travellers, or just anyone who doesn't want to lug around the big guide that's more than 3 times the size - cut out the riff-raff and get to the good stuff! This will pretty much cover everything you need!

Acheter

ⓘ

★★★ Sweet Nightmare (Link-Up) 17 - 20170923_113658.jpg

Jeu 25 Mai

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