Routes in Glasshouse Mountains

Marked 'A'. Up the crack then thrutch up the black squeeze chimney to finish. Removes plenty of knee skin!

This is a good route linking the base of Banshee long chimney with the lower Cyclop cave, in an airy diagonal traverse on the right. The first 20m are easy climbing with 4 good placements, passing a carrot bolt. The mid section (crux) is exposed, extremely thin and runout. Below the cave the route gets easier but long runouts are unavoidable. The Cyclop cave offers also a sheltered bivouac if needed.

The obvious right trending line, to the right of Out Of The Blue. Follow shallow crack system and boulder to the ledge aka The Morgue.

Sit start under the roof. Climb your way out and mantle out using the arete and blank slab left of choss face. Multiple ways to start however lower will be harder. Should be a decently hard problem.

First climb Ideas Man (crux) but continue past IM anchors for another 5m to a DBB.

P2) 14 - 40m continue up following line of least resistance passing one FH to DBB.

P3) 16 - 30m continue up faint features with gear and two FH to DBB.

P4) 10m either straight up to DBB or escape right to Zeitgeist anchors.

3m L of NMS, starting up on little platform. Stickclip. Tricky little start, then smooth sailing through mini roof and up blocky wall. 8 FHs, lower-off.

From 'Slow Motion Grass Smoker' 's second BR, step 1m R and climb onto slab. Climb this for 6m then traverse R and up to 'Purple Pack' 's DBB. Very runout at top.

flat hold to gain jug move feet up then stretch to finishing jug.

Start 2m right of 'Roof Climb'. Climb straight to the top staying within the band of rock covered in white lichen.

Stand from grassy start. Mantle on crumbly holds. Sit start might be better

ACCESS:

The start of this climb is on Leftist wall, the obvious wall level with the 3rd pitch of Traxion Action on climbers left. Access the wall by doing the first 2 1/2 pitches of Traxion Action. On the third pitch follow easy ground but keep trending left to Leftist wall before you start up the ridge of Traxion Action. The small tree at the base marks the start of the climb.

RACK:

• 1 set of cams to #3
• 1 set of medium nuts, offsets preferred.
• 8 draws

ABOUT:

This route is a linkup with the first 2 and a half pitches of Traxion Action, and then joining back in at pitch 7. There is a direct top out with a scramble around to the tourist track but the best finish is up Traxion Action. This climb is mixed and runout at times. A great step up from Traxion Action for those looking for a challenge or to improve their skills in adventure climbing.

1. (Traxion Action) 27m 17 Straight up past 7 hangers and 2 distinct cruxes, then move left through two more hangers to anchor.

2. (Traxion Action) 20m 10 Traverse up and left past 1 hanger & 1 rap anchor before climbing through scrub to base of wall.

3. Hard move off the deck, then follow easy ground but keep trending left to Leftist wall before you start up the ridge of Traxion Action.

4. (Oppression obsession starts here) - 40m 16 Head straight up from the tree, just right of the small bush to a hanger. Pass some gear placements, an ancient piton and a few hangers to optional anchor. Option to belay here (30m) but best to follow the ramp up to the left for another 10m to the next anchors.

5. 35m 16 From here climb the headwall following hangers and over bushy ledge to find the next anchor.

6. Up and veering right. Trad placements to be found around the slab below the 3 pillars. A direct finish goes straight up the right hand pillar or follow the better option to join back in to pitch 7 of Traxion Action. To do this traverse right 6 meters below the pillar and past a bomber placement to the slab of Traxion Action pitch 7. Slab moves up slab to final belay anchor.

7. (Traxion Action) 30m 15 Straight off the belay, look for secret holds. Climb with style past 2 hangers to the top of the buttress and carefully choose your belay.

FAs Matt Hunter, Hamish Ousby, Jay

First Contact begins 5m L of Banished For Infidelity. 7 FHs, lower-off.

Fun and thought-provoking

Right-hand extension to "White Castle". Punchy move through the rooflet past 2 bolts gets you to new anchors. Something a little harder at Wayne's World - Grade needs confirmation

Traverse right along the slab starting at the tree along rails. Climb with care.

Warning This route requires a bit of cleaning of loose holds and lichen. Please either stay off or be extremely careful if you're going to climb it before it's clean.

Sit start. Ends on sidepull sloper jug thing.

Short and powerful route that could be used as a harder direct start to Punks Not Dead. It climbs the right side of the small cave with amazing rock features. 4 closely spaced FH's with very bouldery moves. At the ledge hand traverse left along sloping lip then mantle up to horn jug.

Sit start on rails. Work your way up the arete before moving back right through some sidepulls and crimps to Night Criers mantle.

Traverse the entire length of Brumby Wall.

4m L of Insurrection VS. Thuggy off the ground. Straight up and through the overlaps. Slightly L, slightly R. 8 FHs, lower-off. Harder than LOAJP.

Start 20m left of where the tourist track meets the beach. There is a sport route on RB's but the aid route is on (sometimes questionable) carrots. Its not unheard of for the carrots to pop so take care. Once you start the roof it is very difficult to bail. Final straightforward bail option is at the top of pitch two where a 55m rap will get you back on the ground (two 60m essential)

Marked 'STB'. Start at the thin corner 2m L of 'Feargrounds For Insanity'. Up corner with suspect pro. Needs cleaning in the crack. Hard for the grade.

ACCESS: The start of this climb is on Leftist wall, the obvious wall level with the 3rd pitch of Traxion Action on climbers left. Access the wall by doing the first 2 1/2 pitches of Traxion Action. On the third pitch follow easy ground but keep trending left to Leftist wall before you start up the ridge of TA. The small tree at the base marks the start of the climb. Go past the small tree and under the potential crack climb containing a precarious fridge sized block.

The climb starts towards the far left and heads up to the arete. There are several places where you will need to avoid potential loose rock, finding a mix of reasonable and good placements. This pitch will clean up well eventually but be careful as there is potential for pulling rocks onto your belayer. Work your way over the top to a double bolt anchor. Rap from here or continue up Oppression Obsession. A 70m rope will just reach the ground or you can rap down the ramp to the right to the first achors of oppression obsession.

Up the right side of the slab. Also the downclimb.

Still needs cleaned stay off for now.

Adds a little more pumpy madness to the classic Madder.

Start at LH side of Cave 2, up the arete on blocky holds, no protection, then easier climbing up the slab to anchors above slab. Belay option available from one of the trees in Cave 2 lhs.

Start as for the 40 meter mile but head across Dr Pinocchio and finish up Overseer.

Up the blank slab, will need some cleaning up.

Start: At the top of 'Heliosphere'.

A long, exciting pitch.

Same start as for Raptures first pitch then following the prominent crack rightwards to Trojans belay. Great pro and jams.

Marked 'CR'. Up the broken wall with good protection to a small corner. Climb this past a chockstone and onto a ledge. Bridge up the hard chimney on the L and surmount the overhang to another stance. Finish up the twin cracks to a tree belay.

Marked 'B'. Climb up the R side of the pillar with poor pro to start, then R up the juggy face crack. Crux is poorly protected.

Sit start on face. Start up.

As for Hybrid Vigour, but continue traversing through to Doctor Pinocchio and finish up that.

4m downhill of Insurrection. Stickclip. Up past three FHs to join original. Perhaps a bit harder?

The easy climb up the slabby back of 'Owl Pillar' starting off the ledge just left of Midnight Makeout.

Marked 'SF'. A very hard start up the thin twin cracks leads to an easier top half. Pro is sparse in the lower section so careful placements are needed.

Toprope the wall in between 2 sport routes, Fool's Errand & Heinzenator, from the Fool's Errand anchor.

Marked 'H'. The start offers good climbing with a nice hand crack but soon the climb deteriorates to the likeness of its two predecessors.

Easy climbing up blocky moves to anchors.

This modern traverse into Cave 4 is now bolted (2), making the massive exposure a tad saner. Anchors at the lip of Cave 4.

From Cave 3, scramble down the rock apron, then left to the dirt ledge with small trees on, from here, step up to high first bolt:

★★ Modern Traverse to Cave 4 5 - 2 clips on the traverse

then down, out on ledges, to 2nd clip, continue around the arete, on smaller ledges & massive exposure, till the anchor (and sanity) is reached at the lip of Cave 4:

★★ Modern Traverse to Cave 4 5 - Anchors in Cave 4

Classy. Pity it's not longer. Leave the fourth bolt clipped when toproping, otherwise the lean of the climb makes it difficult.

Slap up the overhung arete till gaining the slab. Lots of pads, cautious spotters nessesary.

Warning

This climb needs to be cleaned of loose holds and lichen . Please stay off until it has been cleaned or be extremely careful whilst climbing.

1. 30m (19) Start as per PC, up crack on good gear to overhang, then straight up through the shallow chimney on scant holds & gear, to gain ledge above, then trend Right along this to crack corner & belay.

2. 32m (13) Up the obvious crack corner, beautiful laybacking, bridging and wall climbing & solid gear. Gain a small stance where Faith crosses wall and belay off tree/bush.

3. 32m (12) Traverse R and up continuation of corner, to finish on ledge & TB. From here, head up Right, across a vegetated scree slope, to join the Caves Route below Trojan.

From the Organ Pipes area follow the track left. The well worn track becomes steep until an exposed move is encountered. The fall from here would be fatal. Past this move, scramble over a series of boulders and bushes until the hiker's track is rejoined.

Start: At the far right of the fixed rope. Joins the route to the left after four bolts after the steep part of the wall. Good climbing, and a bit tricky to read.

Marked 'FK'. A nice looking crack but the climbing is only average. Finish on halfway ledge of "Carmen Revisited" and rap off.

Climb the prominent corner you pass on you way to the start of Prometheus I. Good gear and ok climbing but you end up climbing through an unpleasant bush to top out, hence the name. Continue up or scramble down Prometheus I. Named but FA not listed because it has probably been climbed heaps of times since the 1960s!

Sit start with left hand on crimp under boulder and right hand on crimp on boulder face. Work your way to the dinosaurs nose and mantle out.

4m L of FC. The obvious arcing line up the marbled white rock in the middle of the wall.

Open Project. Extension to NMR. Long standing project through the steepest continual roof in the Summit Caves. Will most likely be Summit Caves hardest line when completed.

Start on the overhanging pillar and cling your way to the top!

The easy access route at the back of the pillar.

Sketchy corner at the far south of the wall. Climbed as access to top.

Just down and left of the upper routes. Awesome rock!!

First climbed in 1926, this whole section of cliff, including the Modern Traverse and the terrace below, was climbed in the pre-rope era of climbing in Qld. START: RH base of Cave 3, scramble down to a wide dirt ledge, follow this around right & up into Cave 4.

Controversially retrobolted by the Modern Traverse.

Start by climbing to the top of Slider Wall gully. This is an extremely vegetated route, not recommended to pure rock artists of to the inexperienced route finder. From the ledge at the top of Upper Slider, traverse rightward along the base of the rock face for approximately 20m. Due to the inevitable presence of loose rock, climbers must make absolutely sure that Upper Slider is quiet (e.g. deserted) in order to avoid bombarding climbers below.

1. 18m - Up a broken rubbly gully, past an old peg to tree belay.

2. 26m - Continue up with a slight rightward trend, past more pegs following the line of least resistance to a tree belay. Up into bush and rubble. At this point, you have two alternatives - 2a) Continue on up diagonally right, through undergrowth and mank to the south east corner and bushbash to the summit, or 2b) Trend left on Grade 1 rock until a yellow overhanging rock is in view. This rock is above the yellow corner.

3. 32m - From a tree belay, traverse left across an exposed, vegetated ledge and up a short rock pitch. Belay above yellow overhang.

4. 24m - Straight up, then rock and vegetation to wall. Tree belay. From here, scramble left along base of wall for 35m across a small stretch of slab.

5. 40m - From a tree belay, climb up a wide gully (thick vegetation). Then up a vertical, vegetated gully to a tree belay on left side. Continue up gully into white corner.

6. 47m - Up slabs adjacent to corner for about 10m, then traverse right for another 10m, then up to top.

Marked 'ST'. A contrived hand crack which becomes very vegetated. Not great.

Unknown sport route on the right side of Cave 4.

Stepped corner system. Several ways up this on toprope. A few loose blocks need to be dealt with before it'll be safe to bolt

Compression line up the slab.

Warning

This climb still needs to be cleaned of loose rock and lichen. Please stay off until it has been cleaned or be extremely careful while climbing it.

Start in the middle of blank face R of Sexy Legs. Hardest moves off the ground, easier as you go up.

One of Tibro's best 26's. Diabolical looking moves off the starting ledge. Anchors on a small ledge in a corner.

Just left of Cave 5. Quite high first bolt. Past 4 spaced FHs to chains.

Marked 'PC'. A very contrived thin hand crack which eventually joins 'Bridge Over Troubled Waters'. If you can avoid the temptation to stray, this climb is quite hard and sustained.

Sit start under boulder with hands in jugs. Figure out the mantle and victory is yours.

Marked 'A'. The enjoyable scramble on small broken pillars and bush at the far left of the main wall. Follows the exposed crest trending right across the tops of the other climbs for an exposed finish to the summit of Ngungun.

Attach yourself to the under side of this horizontal pillar and make you way out and up!

First bolted climb at wall left. Up small face to ledge, then continue up to chains

Last route at upper right of wall. Short and punchy with a defined crux around the second bolt.