Thompson's Point Guide

A bunch of roofy things. Generally fine climbing swiped off Fat Mark after he gave up.

Start: Left side of the cliff

3RB's to 2RB anchor.

Start: Aboriginal for 'Climb Quickly'.

Start 2m right of the arête halfway down the 'Lookout' 'Access' 'Gully'.

Left side of the block at the base of decent gully.

East of decent gully, on right arete of block tending left. Anchor placed a bit to far left.

Just west of decent gully. Start at obvious large pocket.

4m right of EOSM and left of Offwidth. Stay on face, up to slight left then follow bolt line.

Right of obvious offwidth and left of Melodrama. A powerful delicate move down low with the crux on finger holds up high through scoop.

A little runout to start but then easy climbing. If you are feeling strong you can finish with a long hard move to pull up level with the anchors (add a couple of grades) or you can just clip the anchors from below.

2RB's to 2RB anchor.

Start: Start 20m down and right (west) of the bottom of the 'Lookout' 'Access' 'Gully' on the rock shelf directly below the lookout and the well brushed streak.

Links 'No Drama' into 'Melodrama'.

Start: Start as for 'No Drama' but veer left at the 1st RB and continue up 'Melodrama'.

Delicate climbing with a thought provoking crux at mid height.

3RB's to 2RB anchor.

Left of BITS. Start up slight left of bolts before drifting right and powerful crux move. Interesting variations of moves through the block makes this an interesting climb.

A hard move up the initial face is followed by an interesting slab towards the top. Finish direct or chicken out and take the easy option by moving left. 6RB's to 2RB anchor.

Links the 1st half of 'The Furburger' into the 2nd half of 'Blister In The Sun'.

Climb the crack right of 'Blister In The Sun' and finish at the anchors of 'Something For Kate'.

A nice easy well protected climb for the beginners. The crux is getting established onto the wall just above the overlap at 1/3 height. 6RB's to 2RB anchor.

Tricky start , then make you way up the wall, move left when you are above the rock scar. Final hard moves on exposed left nose, reach up high above the crack. 4RB's to 2RB anchor

3RB's to 2RB anchor.

As the name implies be prepared for a battle in order to overcome this imposing line.

Start: Start as for 'Burnum Burnum' but move right and up after the 1st RB.

Climb the wide corner crack at the back of the gully just left of the obvious orange streaked wall. It may be wise to supplement the RB's with natural gear.

Easy lead for the kids and Old Folks. Took me two attempts!

"It's a rock. It doesn't have any vulnerable spots!" JASON NESMITH (Galaxy Quest)

An unusual climb and well worth doing. After a hard start to get established traverse right along the front edge of the block before mantling to clip the anchors. 4RB's to 2RB anchor.

Layback the right hand side arête of the block, mantle and finish at the anchors of the 'The Edge'. 3RB's to 2RB anchor.

Climb 'Layback' but instead of mantling to finish , reverse climb 'The Edge'. To make up for not having to clip any anchors, to successfully tick this climb you must dismount the block and place both feet on the ground in an orderly fashion. Jumping off and rolling down the hill does not count. 7RB's.

Start on the undercut right hand side of the block. It's a very bouldery start to pull on and lunge out left to the flake. Be prepared to fall off. 3RB's to 2RB anchor

Although not hard this climb has a couple of tricky sections that are not initially obvious and require some thought to overcome. At the 6th RB move left and find the hidden pocket around the arête which allows you to get through what appears to be an impossibly blank section. It's still not over as the last move to clip the anchors is no give away. 7RB's to 2RB anchor

Start as for 'Weapons Of Mass Destruction' but after the 1st couple of moves once you can reach the block, traverse right before continuing up the wall. Though the rock on the bottom section is not great the climbing on the upper half is good and quite thought provoking. 7RB's to 2RB anchor.

Warning Flora and Fauna: Bull ant nest

Start: Left hand end of cave. Hard start and keep cranking for the first three bolts till it eases to slab moves at top

Start: 3rd Climb from the right starts on blunt arete. Lots of jugs down low enjoy the rest at halfway, then suck it up for the techo slab at top

Start: Right hand end of cave, just left of 'The Balrog'. 'Steep' and juggy to start - can haul up face or do a little roof start on left. Followed by hard slab cruxes at top. Tough for the grade.

Good technical climbing with a couple of hard moves and a tricky slab finish. Note that 'The Balrog' and 'Shelob' use the same holds towards the finish. 6RB's to 2RB anchor.

6RB's to 2RB anchor.

Climb the face past 2RB's then traverse right along the ledge past 2RB's to the blunt arête, now up the chimney past RB. Step left across the void and up to anchors. 5RB's to 2RB anchor.

Be careful not to climb too high in the chimney or you'll find yourself above the anchor.

Start: Start in the middle of the small face on the left hand side of the buttress.

Climb the left hand side of the arête past 3RB's before moving right onto the wall and then up. The rock at the start is average but the main wall is reminiscent of an easier version of 'Vanderholics'.

8RB's to 2RB anchor.

Start: Start 3m right of 'Philosopher's Stone' just left of the arête.

A direct start to 'Isengard'. Stick clip 1st RB. Start as for 'Super Creeps' but after the 1st RB move left and pull onto the face and past 3RBs before joining 'Isengard'. 8RB's to 2RB anchor.

Stick clip 1st RB. Climb the dubious looking steep rock which isn't as bad as it looks. After the 1st RB pull right onto the face and continue directly up. 8RB's to 2RB anchor.

Start as for 'Forth Dimension' but traverse along the lower line of RB's to the arête. Place a long sling on the belay and 1st RB of 'Forth Dimension'. Continue up the arête past 2RB's before moving left to finish up 'Super Creeps'. 8RB's to 2RB anchor.

The climb starts on the ledge at the 2RB belay inside the cave on the right hand side of the buttress. However, its best to just belay from the ground, walk in along the ledge and place a long sling on the belay to avoid rope drag. Traverse left past the upper line of RB's to the arête. Continue up the crack before moving right onto the wall. 8RB's to 2RB anchor.

7RB's to 2RB anchor.

Start: Start in the cave just right of the orange streaked wall at the level of the 1st RB.

Climb the boulder at the bottom of the access gully. From the top of the boulder move left and pull onto the hanging arête. Traverse left past 3RBs then continue up.

6RB's to 2RB anchor.

Start as for 'Burpin McGlurpin' but after pulling onto the hanging arête continue straight up before moving left to the big blob hold. Finish by running it out to the anchors. Some may feel a little nervous getting from the boulder onto the hanging arête as the 1st bolt does look a long way down … so take care.

5RB's to 2RB anchor.

Stick clip the first RB. A difficult but enjoyable introduction to the climb is followed by what appears to be a very difficult move. On closer examination however this is circumvented by the use of a manufactured pocket that looks like it was created with a jack hammer not sculptured with the precision of a 12mm drill bit. This 'Thank God Pocket' is actually all that is left of a misplaced bolt placement.

If you do the climb by stemming back against the opposite wall to bypass any difficulties the grade is about 16.

5RB's to 2RB anchor.

Start: Start 2m up the access gully.

A pleasant romp on good holds.

Start: Start just left of the arete on teh left end of Indian wall.

Open project? Bolted arete.

Enjoyable climbing.

Start: Start below the big cave.

A hell of a desperate number - especially in summer!

Starts on the left side of the descent gully. Up the orange ramp to the high first bolt. Good moves through the cave lead to an awkward and pumpy finish.

Starts to the right of the descent gully. Enjoy the sloperd.

Start on the left hand edge of the boulder. Stick clip the first bolt and a low bolt assists with keeping the rope out of the start moves.. Thug your way up the start or have a technical brain about you... Finishes on the same anchors as Cheesy Noblicker

An enjoyable short route with an interesting dyno on great rock. Pity it's so short, add a sit start to make this climb a little more worthwhile.

Has been rebolted and has new lower offs

Short but worthwhile, add the sit start for the full tick.

Has been rebolted with new lower offs

4 or 5 moves on incuts.

Short ledge left of the left hand wall block arete

The first route to the right of the descent gully (facing the cliff). Originally a high boulder problem, then retrobolted. Somewhat desperate (for the first few moves).

An improbable looking blank wall. Don't break that pebble!

Warning Flora and Fauna: Wasp nest near top

Start two metres left of SPK ,moving up to follow the 5 RB's to anchor. Single U bolt lower off.

Stiff at grade 20.

Probably the most popular route at Nowra at the grade. Great friction work.

Start left of the cave as per BD.

Up beside the cave (on its left) as for W, hand traverse across the ridge. Left foot high step onto the lintel to get that 2nd bolt and up you go.

Up first 2 bolts of Lucifer then trend left into bolts as for Big Dreams. Couple of longer draws useful here. It's just an excuse to fondle the jugs at the top of Big Dreams

Climb into the cave then up around to the right. Then follow the ringbolts to the top. First bolt is quite high so be careful.

Left wall of the big chimney. Up to low anchor. Funky.

Links start of Blunt into the finish of Velux, at least you can finish at the top of the cliff!

The route left of Santas Little Helper. Up through steep face moves to the fin shaped hold and continue straight up.

1.5m right of the left arete. Up wall and then move left over cave and then straight up

Very excellent slabbing, with a thought provoking crux.

Start: Start on the juggy bit of wall 4m right of the chimney. Has a new second bolt to protect the ground fall.

Very nice crack climb. Layback up the crack until the crux at the crack finish (3/4 up), then up holds to the RBs.

Warning Flora and Fauna: small wasp nest below the anchors

Thin and balancy slab wall right of Barbie Twins.

Start on the very right end of the terrace next to the big chimney. Climb up past a tricky move at the first bolt, then try some left edge bridging at the 2nd roof to overcome the crux, then cruise your way up (yes 3 roofs on this one).

"There's a place in France where the naked ladies dance, there's a hole in the wall where you put your..." Santa Claus is coming down this chimney to find out who's naughty or nice.... a modern classic or an aquired taste, there's something for everyone in Rod Boner's glory hole. Careful of loose rock at the top of the chimney, there is no where for your belayer to run if you dislodge one. The horrific glue drips in the back of the chimney are from an attempt to stabilise the chockstone at the top. Take care.

Start: 2m right in gully finishing on New Nowra is Old News anchors.

On left hand arete of turtle wall, laybacking the crack to start and some nice climbing with an exciting finish.

Just right of New Nowra is Old News. Straight up.

Runs through left edge of cavelet. Straight up to ring lower-offs.

Mantle (try the right edge), up through cavelet, crux around 3rd RB and over lip onto wall. Trend right following juggy cracks on the turtle shell to ring lower-offs.

Straight up as for Turtle wall, but in the cave go onto the right ledge and out right to the 2nd (or 3rd) ring bolt.

Start at the end of the Turtle Wall (as for Turtle Wall route). Trend up and right for 3 ring bolts then conquer a massive exposed traverse around right that keeps going until a belay station at the end of Ten Gallon Rehab (sharp arete). Technically easy but not for the faint hearted!

Be aware of rope friction and communication between belayer and leader on this one.

The extension to Mad Hatter with exciting, committing and exposed moves.

A total Nowra classic. Great fun roofing with very cool moves. Pity it is quite short, but at least you get a bit of exposure. This route starts in the exposed cave above the closed Mini Wall. Do not abseil down Mini Wall to get off - scramble off instead.

Start as for CJ but continue straight out of roof, exit out over roof lip and up left to anchors.

Extension of 'Cowboy Junkies' following lip of roof to arete, then up to finish at 'Mad Hatter' anchors.

Up chimney tending left under the little roof and up the left hand groove to the anchors on 'Lucifer'.

THIS SMALL WALL BELOW COWBOY JUNKIES IS CLOSED. AND IS VERY UNLIKELY TO EVER BE RE-OPENED TO CLIMBERS, PLEASE RESPECT THAT.

https://www.southcoastregister.com.au/story/4347708/rock-climbers-keen-on-cooperation-and-communication/

THIS SMALL WALL BELOW COWBOY JUNKIES IS CLOSED. AND IS VERY UNLIKELY TO EVER BE RE-OPENED TO CLIMBERS, PLEASE RESPECT THAT.

https://www.southcoastregister.com.au/story/4347708/rock-climbers-keen-on-cooperation-and-communication/

Route name changed at the request of the first ascentionist.

Starts with a few long moves to break. At the break grab the undercling and crank to the top ledge. Lower offs further back on top ledge.

Start: Start 2m L of WATG

THIS SMALL WALL BELOW COWBOY JUNKIES IS CLOSED. AND IS VERY UNLIKELY TO EVER BE RE-OPENED TO CLIMBERS, PLEASE RESPECT THAT.

https://www.southcoastregister.com.au/story/4347708/rock-climbers-keen-on-cooperation-and-communication/

THIS SMALL WALL BELOW COWBOY JUNKIES IS CLOSED. AND IS VERY UNLIKELY TO EVER BE RE-OPENED TO CLIMBERS, PLEASE RESPECT THAT.

https://www.southcoastregister.com.au/story/4347708/rock-climbers-keen-on-cooperation-and-communication/

Inside corner crack, going left through carrot bolt beneath roof to anchor.

Start as for Ceiling Your Fate though go right at the roof and through the anchor of Orca. All trad, avoid the temptation to clip bolts of Orca. In the roof theres a block with jugs on top, i chose to avoid this because of unknown rock quality, climbing the seam below this. Make your own assessment

Starts on left side of arête. Straight up to finish.

Optional friend no longer needed to protect start.

Start on the right side of arête, finish by traversing left to the shared anchors with 'Maddest Hatter'.

Left line of rings up the lichen covered slab.

Right line of rings up the lichen covered slab. Left handside also available.

A top little route that deserves more attention, and takes on the obvious rounded arete. Finishes at single large U/staple.

Up the wide crack, then right around small roof to ledge. Trad anchor then scramble off the top or walk carefully left to Lichen/Mossy Climb anchors. The middle is a bit runout without big cams (5+). If you do have big cams you could also try taking the crack through the roof, looks fun.

Start: Start at the obvious cleft about 15m to the right of the Orca wall.

Warning Rock: Loose block at the top

Enjoyable stroll, with a tricky start. Will be better with traffic.

Start: Start 2m right of the previous route.

Traverse in for an easier route

Another good fun doddle.

Start: Start on the far right hand side of the wall.

The cute little arete. Start on the ground below the ledge. Take care or stick clip high first bolt.

Clip 1st bolt on Me (and that's it), then move right to gain obvious side pull feature thingo and up thru some techy moves. Continue into Suze when it gets easy.

Left of SM. Tricky 1st move

Stay Direct. Once described as soft. Often considered reachy and difficult. You decide.

Up chimney, continue up as narrows. Can either set a trad belay, or continue up face and use lower-offs for Heathen around the arete to lower-off

Hidden Gem

Probably 22 now that the boulder has rolled down the gully.

Very good climbing, which makes you appreciate how average 'Killer Boas' really is. Superb friction.

Another total classic which deserves more ascents. Rebolted 2008

Start: Start below the Ubolts, a few metres left of the big crack.

crimpy, just right and down the gully from Up the alley

Looks bad, but is actually quite good - in an adventurous way.

Start: Start next to the path, just left of the mossy corner.

Choss

Tricky start just right of arête. Up with a couple of committing moves to jugs. New bolts, new grade 2012.

A couple of random carrots that lead to no where.

Route name changed at the request of the first ascentionist.

Up small corner for 3 bolts (take care clipping the 2nd) to rooflet. Over the rooflet on small holds. Continue up on easier ground to some funky moves on the arete left of FM.

Very thin start then consistent climbing up and through cave area, second crux is committing. Enjoy!!!!

Beaut sustained climbing.

Start: Directly below the cave, on the left side of the obvious crack. Up the wall past delicate slab move to a big rest in the cave. Take a breath and head out the right side up the vertical wall on magic holds.

Major crack line splitting the face starting just right of 'Vanderholics' - a great trad route. Up crack for 10m to horizontal break, traverse right across 'Gina Hardface' and continue up corner crack above (ignoring the bolts). Rap off rings above 'Gina Hardface'. Medium to large cams.

Line a couple of metres left of Butterfly Wall. Up thinly past a few bolts to the crux. The dyno isn't mandatory but the move is impossible to dog past without hauling a stick clip. Excellent route, up there with the other classics on this wall.

The original start is now generally superseded by BWD

Start: Just right of the corner at a flake, as for BP.

A beautiful route on great rock. Start: 5 meters right of the corner - directly below the obvious butterfly feature high on the wall.

An old 90's project finally put to rest! Starts to the right of 'Butterfly Wall Direct' on the detached block. Up through a scabby section (glued rail), then sustained crimping and a fun fight to the finish.

Tara Sutherland's 2002 ascent was the first Aussie female ascent of a grade 30.

Fabulous, powerful and pumpy climbing up the amazing wall. Very hard for the grade. Used to be very easy for the grade before crucial holds were glued up for the FA of No More Gaps. The nasty mono became a duo tho'

Start: Start below the obvious duo, which can just be reached off the boulder.

Awesome hard face climbing up a steep prow. Start 6m right of Butterfly Wall, the same as for Stone Roses.

Tara Sutherland's mid-late 1990s ascent was the first Aussie female ascent at this grade.

Brackets on the blunt arete below Concrete Petunias. Looks absurdly hard. Even 20 years ago it was a futuristic open project.

Rebolted 20-05-2006

Thin, crimpy and good technical climbing for the first three clips. Stick clip the first if your feet are a little unsure.

don't be silly it's been Done 10 Years ago it's Thompsons Point for gods sake

2 hard cruxes

Direct start to pale yellow underwear.

Two bolts add a direct start to the fantastic drive bye. Start in the letterbox and get ready for some postage! This direct start avoids the big rest.

First 3 ascents done on gear. Now has ring bolts. There is a small - fist sized - rock that is loose above the roof. One day it will be loose enough to come out. Until then take a little care.

Start: Climbs crack and peapod 4m left of AVNS.

Open Project. Like the rest of the routes on this wall, it needs a scrub after rain. About 25 ???????

A tough thin crux, but not a bad route.

Great climbing which has always suffered from muddy runoff when it rains. Please brush the route when you are working it to keep the holds in good order.

A nice route - but why everyone thinks it is worth 3 stars we will never know.

Start: Start to the right of the blunt arete on the right hand side of the wall where there is a big chimmney.

The chimney - on trad. Rock quality and gear questionable until the last 10m

so many moves for a micro-route. Classic

Up the sharp black arete a few meters right of Fattergram

Hard and pumpy with a sting in the tail - classic Nowra.

From the ledge, pull onto the main face for a few crimpy moves then up past the slopey pockets to an exciting undercling finish!

Start: Start on foot of pinnacle. 2m right of MTHF.

Stick-clip first bolt.

Start in front of the dead tree. Up blunt arete for a few bolts then traverse left to finish up Hide The Salami. Grade restored for cultural preservation.

Link of Mesmo Butts into Butts of Beef.

Clip the anchor for BOB then head out through the slightly sandy roof to an impressive arete. Blast up this and you're all done!

Start: Start as for BOB

Easy start for 7m then crimp desperately to sloper. Finish with a pumo slightly left then right to anchor under roof. Finish as described added 2012.

Upgraded to 21 since ring bolts and extension.

Rebolted 08-07-2006.

Links Electro Rooter directly into the upper half of 'The Hustler'. The improbable moves through the very steep pocketed rock that links the two climbs are intense but wickedly good. The first ascent was achieved without the additional bolt placement in the link-up. The bolt was added a couple of days later to avoid the inevitable carnage that would occur as unsuccessful climbers slammed back into the wall.

Easily and often confused with The Hustler. The mega mega roof line that makes your neck hurt just to look at it. Looks improbable until you get up there and find out how big some of the holds are. Start on the very right hand side of the pocketed wall. Follow the permadraws left through the roof. Where they (and the chalk) continue up (The Hustler), this breaks left again (no permadraws!) through the top roof and up onto the amazing orange rock of the headwall.

Now with permadraws from the roof to the top. But watch out for the just-too-short permadraw which pinches your rope hard against the sharpish main lip of the roof - BYO extender. This is an excellent option for rainy days - even if the Pocketed Wall is shut down by the spooge this route is unaffected.

Same start as Peacocks after second ring follow fixed brackets heading left. Anchors and abseil same as Peacocks.

This is a rap-in route left of Picture This with new rap-in anchors to semi-hanging belay. If you are worried about run-outs then pack a #1 Wild Country friend and a blue zero. AWESOME Route!!!!

Optional friend.

Around the corner from the Hustlers. Most of the climb on the same block, the west facing wall, but you start with a scramble on a different South facing wall. High first bolt then run out to optional belay on the right corner of the west wall, but easy moves. Climb really starts once you're on that wall. Traverse flat left past Traditional Evolution (20) bolts to more central bolts. If you're comfortable you can skip the belay point to avoid a lot of drag, or go back and unclip it once you're into the next bolt. Then 45 degree angle left to next bolt, and straight up friendly enough holds to top.

Fun little adventure. Bolts are good now.

A classic bit of exposure. Was once three stars when you caould hang by one arm from the chicken-head - only worth 1 star now that sombody snapped it off.

Watch the rope length when lowering.

Start: Start by walking up the track to the left of the little grease cave.

climb the first 2 bolts of narcosis, then bust right to the lip of slip, slop, slap. clip the bolt and finish up slip slop slap!! great fun!

Start: as for narcosis

A perfect boulder problem on a rope. Three moves to glory... slip, slop, slap.

Starts up in cave above walking track, either scramble direct up corner or around from the start of The Little Grease cave climbs. Out roof to arete and up this to anchor shared with FIGJAM.

Climb the bottomless chimney with the aid of a horizontal fig , joining arette to lower off. Either start direct (unbolted) or scramble up to base on left. Take care of large loose block at first bolt. Quite possibly Nowras finest sport route.

Good fun. If you get the right beta, it feels more like 25.