Grade | Route | Gear style | Popularity | ||
---|---|---|---|---|---|
Harvey’s Marbles The Inner Circle Middle Marsh | |||||
V4 | ★ Nahaul Variant
Mantle direct is slightly harder. FA: Madoc Sheehan | ||||
V5 | ★ Too Many Slopers
Starts 2m right of Nahaul, on and just left of arete. Standing start on bad slopers, and find a way to get your foot up onto the one good foothold FA: Steve Baskerville, 2002 | ||||
V5 | Too Many Slopers Direct
The direct sit-start of “Too Many Slopers”. FA: Alister Robertson | ||||
V7 | ★★ Too Many Slopers SS
Sit-start going left to join the start of “Too Many Slopers”. Now contrived and superseded by Alister's beta “Too Many Slopers Direct” but cool enough to include here. FA: Steve Baskerville | ||||
V5 | Destiny's Child
Starts 1.5m left of Nahaul, on small sidepulls. Up to the jug out right, and then up and left to mantle. FA: Steve Baskerville, 2003 | ||||
V3 | ★ Girl’s Time
Up arête just right of corner to a solid mantle. Uses crack but not wall left of crack. FA: Steve Baskerville, 2003 | ||||
V6 | ★★★ Madi's Traverse
Start as for Nahaul and keep go left to finish above “Girl’s Time” on slopey holds. FA: Madoc Sheehan, 2002 | ||||
V0 | ★ The Writing’s on the Wall
Corner crack from a sit or stand. FA: Macoc Sheehan, 2003 | ||||
V2 | ★ Pac-Man
Single move mantle problem. Sit-start on block, mantle overhang on slopers and good feet. FA: Kaspa Snoad, 2023 | ||||
V0 | ★ Dangun
The arete from the right-hand side. FA: Steve Baskerville, 2001 | ||||
V0 | Feveron
Arete from left-hand side. FA: Rod Marsh, 2001 | ||||
V1 | Over Analyzed
Face just right of arete, without using the arete. FA: Steve Baskerville, 2001 | ||||
Hands Free
The cool hands free slab just to the right of “Disillusioned”. | |||||
V3 | Disillusioned
Don't ever bother, but if say, everything else is being climbed: Very close to the ground. Undercut sit-start off obvious slopey hold in front of small tree. Watch your feet. FA: Steve Baskerville, 2001 | ||||
Harvey’s Marbles The Inner Circle The Snooze Boulders | |||||
V5 | ★★★ Insomnia
Sit-start on jugs moving left on slopers. Watch your back on the block! FA: Madoc Sheehan, 2013 | ||||
V1 | ★ No sleep to Brooklyn
Middle of face starting from opposing sidepulls. FA: Madoc Sheehan, 1999 | ||||
V2 | ★★ No Sleep To Brooklyn Variant
“No Sleep to Brooklyn” but eliminating the right-hand sidepulls. | ||||
V3 | ★ No Doze
Start low on jugs. Move up and left to join "No Sleep to Brooklyn” at the top FA: Madoc Sheehan, 2013 | ||||
V2 | ★ Ambien
Mantle the slight bulge starting from a sit-start on the little arête. FA: Madoc Sheehan, 1999 | ||||
V0 | Drowsy
The arete just to the right. Nice easy warm up with some great footwork. Move to middle of slab and mantle. FA: Madoc Sheehan, 1999 | ||||
V1 | ★ Two Pointer
Standing start move directly up the middle of the face to finish. FA: Jack Van Hees, 14 Apr | ||||
Open Project
Possibly one of Madoc's old projects that has been forgotten over time. Sit start and move directly up to finish on "two Pointer". | |||||
V6 | Wondergirl
Sit-start in the middle of undercut slab. Move right to the arete and up via hard last move. Easier in winter. FA: Steve Baskerville, 2001 | ||||
V2 | ★ Weight Gain
Sit or crouched start on arete off good edges, (final move of “Wondergirl”). Straight up. See also "Weight Gain Variant". | ||||
V0 | Weight Gain Variant
The standing start to "Weight Gain" | ||||
V0 | Small Boi
Sit-start following the obvious flake crack to finish. FA: Aaron Zealey, 22 Apr | ||||
V0 | Tango
| ||||
V5 | ★ Monster of Rock
Obvious sit-start under the hanging flake. Up and steeply traverse right along the lip, moving round the corner and then mantling off the final good holds about a meter before the tree. FA: Adrian Bautze Geue, 2001 | ||||
V7 | Pulled Muscle Tendon
Start as for “Monster of Rock”, only takes the low traverse option after the first few moves. Big sideways move off the huge flake to small edges, then to jug. From jug continue as for “Monster of Rock”. FA: Madoc Sheehan, 2002 | ||||
V0 | MoR Direct
Stand start near “ Monster of Rock” & “Pulled Muscle Tendon “ but go straight up. | ||||
V0- | ★ Hot Sauce
Nice short face. FA: MS, 1999 | ||||
V0 | Hello Nasty
Short problem up crunchy face, starting off low set of holds. FA: Deb Thorogood, 2001 | ||||
V0 | The Great Disappointment
Standing start, slap your way up the right-hand arete. FA: Kaspa Snoad, 22 Apr | 3m | |||
V1 | Hopeful arete
Sit-start, slap your way up the left-hand arete to easy finish. FA: Kaspa Snoad, 22 Apr | 3m | |||
V3 | ★ Hope and Hindrance
Elimination problem: You may only use left arete as a starting hold for your left hand, right arete is completely out. Sit-start and move up through the middle of the face on flakes, reaching up and right to small sloper dish then pop to Jug to finish. FA: Aaron Zealey, 22 Apr | ||||
V2/3 | ★★ Hope and Hindrance Dyno
Same Sit-start as "Hope and Hindrance" but dyno directly to finish. Besides the initial starting hold, all other holds on the arete are out. FA: Kaspa Snoad, 22 Apr | 3m | |||
V1 | ★ Charcoal Traverse
Fun lowball with great movements. Sit-start as far right as possible on crimps, then traverse left to final diagonal rail and mantle to finish. FA: Kaspa Snoad, 22 Apr | 2m | |||
V2 | ★ Anticlimax
Standing start next to the tree, move directly up on crimps and slopers to finish. FA: Glen Hayford, 27 Apr | 3m | |||
Rubens’s Traverse
Standing start, establish yourself on the wall then traverse left and up to finish above “Anticlimax” FA: Ruben Roberts, 27 Apr | |||||
Flamethrower Project
| |||||
V3 | Blood
The best of the three. Low start under the obvious jugs. FA: Jason Shaw | ||||
V5 | ★★ Blood SS
Sit-start to “Blood” Left hand on small triangular crimp on face right hand on arete rail feature. Pull on and move directly up onto jugs to finish. FA: Glen Hayford, 2023 | ||||
V3 | Lactic Acid Pump
Right-hand line. Sit start off nasty edges to a fun, (read grovel), mantle. FA: Jason Shaw | ||||
V4 | Pumpy Power Piece
Start near tree off crusty diagonal left-hand edge and small crimp for right-hand. Pop right to slot and then move to big jugs. FA: Jason Shaw | ||||
V1 | AAA Battery
Sit-start juggy goodness, moving up and to the right to finish. FA: Kaspa Snoad, 2023 | ||||
V2 | AA Battery
Sit-start move directly up to finish FA: Kaspa Snoad, 2023 | ||||
V0 | Captain Chaos
Mantle into featured slab. FA: Madoc Sheehan, 2001 | ||||
V0- | Orange Julius
Obvious easy flake crack. FA: Madoc Sheehan, 2001 | ||||
V3 | Screaming Carrot Demon
Sit-start at the base of the corner, (right side of the block). Move technically up and left onto the slab to finish at the flake crack. FA: Madoc Sheehan, 2001 | ||||
V0 | Tangerine Tornado
Corner to the top. FA: SB, 2001 | ||||
V1 | ★ Corrupter and Theif
Contrived problem up wall just to the right of the corner staying away from holds in the the corner. FA: Steve Baskerville, 2001 | ||||
V0 | Arnold Lane
Arete right of corner from either side. FA: Steve Baskerville, 2001 | ||||
V0 | Wizard of Odd
Face right of arete. Many variations. FA: Madoc Sheehan, 2001 | ||||
V0 | Slabaroo
Slab left of big blocks. FA: Madoc Sheehan, 2001 | ||||
Harvey’s Marbles The Inner Circle The Pass By Boulders | |||||
V0 | Wolf of the Cosmos
Traverse around to finish before the blocky gulley. | ||||
V0 | The Marble Downs
As “Wolf of the Cosmos” but do the full loop. | ||||
V3 | Ferrari in a Demolition Derby
Sit start just R of the tree (cramped). Tough start on slopes. | 3m | |||
V0 | Best Troubador
Sit start off good flakes to arete. | ||||
V4 | Funtown Comedown
RH pinch/LH pocket. Tough move to direct mantle. | 2m | |||
V0 | In Good Faith
Good slab and feature. | ||||
V0 | Squid Eye
Nice start. From the ledge finish L. | ||||
V0 | The Devil is People
Nice face with chunky holds. | 4m | |||
V1 | Joya
RH sidepull/LH undercling. Up slabby arete. | 3m | |||
V4 | Superwolf
From a good foothold, dynamic move up and L. See also “Superwolf Variant” | ||||
V2 | Superwolf Variant
From a good foothold, delicate move up and R. See also “Superwolf”. | 3m | |||
V8 | ★★★ The Nerd
An arete with fantastic body tension. | ||||
V0 | Duchess
Start underneath prominent jug. Finish R. See also ”Duchess Variant”. | 3m | |||
V1 | Duchess Variant
Start underneath prominent jug. Finish L. See also ”Duchess”. | 3m | |||
Harvey’s Marbles The Inner Circle The Cow Paddock | |||||
V2 | Jug To Jug
Just left of The Lunge (when walking to The Cow Paddock). Up and left from horizontal holds to jugs and straight up. FA: Steve Baskerville | ||||
V2 | The Lunge
A short arête with the chunky undercling. | ||||
V2 | An Okay V2
An ok problem Right of Lunge. | ||||
V1 | ★ Ice Cream Man
Pocketed slab. FA: Madoc Sheehan, 1999 | ||||
V0 | ★ Ice Cream Topping
Starting at the left-hand end of the long vertical face, traverse right along the slopey top and finish at the flake at the right-hand end. Surprisingly tricky. FA: 2001 | ||||
V0- | Ice Cream Topping Variant
A variant of "Ice Cream Topping". Mantle half way for an easier problem. | ||||
V4 | ★★ Another Cone Please
Starting in the middle of the wall off the small left-hand sidepull and tiny right-hand crimp. Tricky feet and then launch for the slopey top. Fingery Fun. FA: Madoc Sheehan, 2001 | ||||
V5 | ★ Nasty Knob
Sit start on the short uphill arete (below the obvious hanging knob) with right-hand sidepull and lower of the two left-hand slopers. Fun. FA: Steve Baskerville, 2001 | ||||
V5/6 | Whining Shorties
Essentially Nasty Knob, without the right-hand sidepulls. Sit start below the horn, with the slopers at the base of the vague arête. Now go straight up via some small divots and slopers to gain the horn. Reachy last move. FA: Steve Baskerville, 2003 | 3m | |||
V3 | ★ Flappers For Free
Start sitting on the block below the short face and slab. Start 1.5m left of the tree, hanging off the left-hand arete and small crimp on the face. Up to hold on slab and finish moving up and left. FA: Steve Baskerville, 2001 | ||||
V3 | The 5 O'Clock Surprise
Mantle onto short slab using the one obvious good hold. Climb it at 5 O'clock and find out why. FA: Steve Baskerville, 2002 | ||||
V3 | ★★ Sneaky
Starts just right of the tree (tree no longer exists) and up on slopey holds with a crux slap for the juggy flake. FA: Madoc Sheehan, 1999 | ||||
V4 | ★★ Elastic
Straight up the dimpled face starting off sidepull and slopey pinches. FA: Steve Baskerville, 2001 | ||||
V0 | ★ It’s Five O’clock Somewhere
Up the obvious flake arête. Standing start off small blocks, step up to small underclings then follow the flake right. A good problem. FA: Madoc Sheehan, 2000 | ||||
V4 | It’s Five O’clock Somewhere Variant
Start from ground off small holds (slopey crimps). FA: Rob Saunders | 3m | |||
V1 | ★★ Nick Off
Left-hand variant of "Creaking Limbs", starting just to the left on better footholds, finishing via a great jug. Balancy goodness. FA: Nick Gust, 2000 | ||||
V2 | ★★ Creaking Limbs
Middle of the blank looking face below the hanging flake. Starts crouched off the obvious low handrail, up to flake. FA: Stuart Argent, 1999 | ||||
V2 | ★★ Miss Franjapenny
Sit start on the rocking boulder, then a single move dyno to the top. FA: Steve Baskerville, 2000 | 2m | |||
V3 | Bedraggled
Short, steep sit start below the obvious flake and up. Sharp. FA: Steve Baskerville, 2002 | ||||
V0 | Bedraggled Variant
Variant of Bedraggled - without the sit start. A pleasant problem. | ||||
V3 | ★ Kasia's Revenge
A short sit start with a tricky first move and actually easier for shorter people. FA: Jason Shaw, 2000 | ||||
V1 | ★ Plank cramper
Sit-start on edges at lip, single mantle move to easy top out. FA: Glen Hayford, 25 Mar 2023 | 2m | |||
V2 | ★ Unnamed Traverse #1
Sit start at left-hand end of tiny bulge, moving Right and topping out at highest point. FA: Steve Baskerville | ||||
V5 | Training Day
Start way around to the right and traverse left to the start of "Unnamed Traverse #1", and top out left. FA: Steve Baskerville | ||||
V4 | Training Day Reversed
Reverse direction of Training Day. | ||||
V4 | ★ Harry Houdini's Hand Holds
Starts 1m left of "Bum Crack". Up from cluster of small edges to slopey pinch and a hard mantle. FA: Madoc Sheehan, 2002 | ||||
V1 | ★★ Bum Crack
A balancy crack and face climbing to a slope at the top with a pleasant top out. Classic. See Bum Crack Sit-start for a slightly harder problem. FA: Madoc Sheehan, 1999 | 3m | |||
V3 | ★★ Bum Crack Sit Start
Same as "Bum Crack" but with the obvious sit start. FA: Steve Baskerville, 2000 | ||||
V7 | Escape
Start as for "Bum Crack Sit Start", only go up and across diagonally left to finish up as for "Harry Houdini's Hand Holds", via a tough and thin traverse. FA: Steve Baskerville, 2003 | ||||
V6 | ★ The right cheek
Start 2m right of "Bum Crack" with a high slopey left-hand pinch, and a bad lower right-hand hold. Paste your feet and up to some slopes and a tricky mantle. Stack mats or blocks to reach the left-hand start hold if you are too short - see "The right cheek high start". FA: Steve Baskerville, 2003 | 3m | |||
V5 | ★ The right cheek high start
Same as "The right cheek" but starting high with pads or blocks. | 3m | |||
V2 | ★ Pull Hard
Crank through steep wall from slopes on lip. Starts off the flake embedded in the ground. Alternatively start as "Pull Hard Variant 1"[1993001625], "Pull Hard Variant 2"[1993001625], or "Pull Hard Variant 3"[1993001736]. FA: Madoc Sheehan, 1999 |