Grade | Route | Gear style | Quality | Climber | |||
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Mon 5th Aug 2019 - Squamish | |||||||
Smoke Bluffs Crag X Lower Crag X | |||||||
5.9 | ★★★ Baby Lizard - with Soren | 45m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Super relaxing, climbed in approach shoes.
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5.10c | ★ Side Street - with Soren | 45m, 2 | ★ Good | ||||
Good fun. Only seemed vaguely familiar until I looked down from the chains. Didn't bother with top pitch.
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Wed 24th Jul 2019 - Squamish | |||||||
Smoke Bluffs Blind Channel Crags The Zip | |||||||
5.10b | ★ Crystal Ball (right) - with Elie | 22m | ★ Good | ||||
Hard start
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Sun 21st Jul 2019 - Squamish | |||||||
Smoke Bluffs Penny Lane | |||||||
5.9 | ★★ Witch Doctor's Apprentice | 25m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
If you enjoy 3d problems yo uh will love this. 2 roofs, a crack and loads of stemming. Some surprisingly burly moves if you have sausage fingers
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5.9 | ★★★ Penny Lane | 30m | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Protects well. Solid for the grade. Great crack climbing.
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Sun 21st Jul 2019 - Squamish | |||||||
Smoke Bluffs Burgers and Fries | |||||||
5.7 | ★★ Burgers and Fries | 25m | Don't Bother | ||||
4 stars my ass. Protects poorly then run out slab on crappy gear
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5.7 | ★ Jammers Delight | 15m | |||||
Not bad. Layback or jam, up to you
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Mon 15th Jul 2019 - Squamish | |||||||
Smoke Bluffs Neat and Cool | |||||||
5.10a | ★★★ Flying Circus | 25m | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Favorite Route of the weekend. Not yet confident leading 5.10x finger cracks.
Top effort by brett |
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5.9 | ★ Lieback Flake | 25m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Fun Feature. Was unprepared for the dirty slab at the top which goes at 10-11
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5.6 5.7 | ★ Cornflakes | 25m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Super interesting rock feature. Took some wizardry to protect
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Sun 14th Jul 2019 - Squamish | |||||||
Smoke Bluffs Krack Rock | |||||||
5.10a | ★ Koko Crack | 20m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Great fun. Easy to protect. Nice to be back on some rock again
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5.7 | ★ Turkey Dinner | 20m | ★ Good | ||||
Awkward start then nice flowing hand jams
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Sun 14th Jul 2019 - Squamish | |||||||
Smoke Bluffs Neat and Cool | |||||||
5.9 5.7 | ★ Clean Starts | 8m | Average | ||||
Left variant
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Sun 30th Jun 2019 - Squamish | |||||||
Smoke Bluffs Parking Lot Wall | |||||||
5.6 | ★ Kiss - with Nossy | 10m | ★ Good | ||||
free solo
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5.6 | ★ Snuggle - with Nossy | 10m | |||||
free solo
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Thu 27th Jun 2019 - Squamish | |||||||
Smoke Bluffs Neat and Cool | |||||||
5.10a | ★★★ Neat and Cool | 30m | |||||
Crack was very wet after rain. Jam blew out and whipped at crux.
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5.10a | ★★★ Flying Circus | 25m | ★★★ Mega Classic | ||||
Awesome.
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Thu 27th Jun 2019 - Squamish | |||||||
Smoke Bluffs Pixie's Corner | |||||||
5.10b | ★★ White Rabbit | 10m | |||||
Blew foot at top, whipped.
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Wed 26th Jun 2019 - Squamish | |||||||
Smoke Bluffs Smoke Bluff Wall and Environs Upper Levels | |||||||
5.10a 5.10b | ★★ Jabberwocky | 20m | |||||
Smoke Bluffs Connection pitch 3.
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5.9 | ★★ Wonderland | 30m | |||||
Smoke Bluffs Connection pitch 4.
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Mon 10th Jun 2019 - Squamish | |||||||
Smoke Bluffs Blind Channel Crags Free and Easy | |||||||
5.10b | ★★ Free and Easy | 10m | |||||
top roped it a few years back, was excited to lead it, the slung nut trick really helped!
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Sun 9th Jun 2019 - Squamish | |||||||
Smoke Bluffs Split Beaver | |||||||
5.10b | ★★★ Split Beaver - with Kelsie Wamer | 30m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Surprisingly I can fist jam all the way to the top, a fantastic route and a must-do for Squamish!
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Thu 6th Jun 2019 - Squamish | |||||||
Smoke Bluffs Smoke Bluff Wall and Environs Upper Levels | |||||||
5.7 | ★★★ Laughing Crack | 25m | ★★★ Mega Classic | ||||
First crack climb, so much fun
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Tue 4th Jun 2019 - Squamish | |||||||
Smoke Bluffs Split Beaver | |||||||
5.10b | ★★★ Split Beaver | 30m | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Some top quality wide stuff
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Mon 8th Apr 2019 - Squamish | |||||||
Smoke Bluffs Crag X Supervalue | |||||||
5.10c | ★★★ Supervalue - with Keith Lemay | 35m, 4 | ★★★ Classic | ||||
If you're diligent about extending your draws down below the drag is manageable. Great fun.
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Mon 1st Apr 2019 - Squamish | |||||||
Smoke Bluffs Smoke Bluff Wall and Environs Mosquito Area | |||||||
5.8 | ★★ Mosquito - with shell | 25m | ★★★ Classic | ||||
slipped due to not having my TC Pros
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Mon 4th Mar 2019 - Squamish | |||||||
Smoke Bluffs Penny Lane | |||||||
5.12b | ★★★ Sunny Days In December | 35m | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Awesome route. Very specific beta. Trad, 2 bolts. 5.12c in new guide book.
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Tue 20th Nov 2018 - Squamish | |||||||
Smoke Bluffs Blind Channel Crags High Cliff | |||||||
5.11d | ★★ Red Nails | ||||||
Fitness lap.
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Tue 20th Nov 2018 - Squamish | |||||||
Smoke Bluffs Penny Lane | |||||||
5.9 | ★★★ Penny Lane | 30m | |||||
2x laps.
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5.11c | ★★★ Crime of the Century | 15m | |||||
Found four no-hands rests this time.
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5.12b | Kahoukers | 25m | |||||
2x fitness laps
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Sat 10th Nov 2018 - Squamish | |||||||
Smoke Bluffs Penny Lane | |||||||
5.11a | ★★★ Partners in Crime - with Rose | 25m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Start was seeping a bit, but most of the important bits were dry. Great fun first half, then a reprieve before some nice ring locks in the easier upper half.
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5.10b | ★ The Ugly American - with Rose | 25m | Average | ||||
A bit dirty and wet
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5.11a | ★★ Werewolves of London - with Rose | 35m, 1 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Balancy move into the crack, then easy up the transition left at halfway.
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Mon 29th Oct 2018 - Squamish | |||||||
Smoke Bluffs Respiration Rock | |||||||
5.10a | ★★ Coronary Bypass | 17m | |||||
Pretty powerful!
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Fri 26th Oct 2018 - Squamish | |||||||
Smoke Bluffs Burgers and Fries | |||||||
5.5 | Councillor's Groove | 15m | ★ Good | ||||
Cleaned gear for Sam
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5.8 | ★★ Bilbo Baggins | 15m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Hardest pure trad lead to date - fantastic jamming up top! Bomber placements all the way (largish cams)
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Sat 13th Oct 2018 - Squamish | |||||||
Smoke Bluffs Penny Lane | |||||||
5.9 | ★★★ Penny Lane | 30m | |||||
No fixed anchor at the top. build anchor on top of the ledge or use small tree. Walk of or rap down crime of the century anchor
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Sun 30th Sep 2018 - Squamish | |||||||
Smoke Bluffs Burgers and Fries | |||||||
5.11a | ★★ Over Forty | 22m | |||||
Not an 11a these days.
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Tue 25th Sep 2018 - Squamish | |||||||
Smoke Bluffs Penny Lane | |||||||
5.11a | ★★ Werewolves of London | 35m, 1 | |||||
Could not stick the slab crux
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5.10d | ★★ Climb and Punishment (Climb and Punishment (aka Crime and Punishment?)) | 20m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
First half of climb covered in wasps
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5.9 | ★★★ Penny Lane | 30m | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Climbed wet
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Mon 17th Sep 2018 - Squamish | |||||||
Smoke Bluffs Burgers and Fries | |||||||
5.10a 5.10b | ★ Catch Me | 25m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Fun route - mid-height friction slab crux and cracks above.
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Tue 4th Sep 2018 - Squamish | |||||||
Smoke Bluffs Neat and Cool | |||||||
5.10a | ★★★ Flying Circus - with luke | 25m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
A little polished
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5.10a | ★★★ Neat and Cool - with luke | 30m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
very unlike of the Bluff!
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5.11a | ★★ Kangaroo Corner - with luke | 15m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
A bit of yoyoing action! A little too short
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Tue 4th Sep 2018 - Squamish | |||||||
Smoke Bluffs Pixie's Corner | |||||||
5.10b | ★★ White Rabbit - with Luke | 10m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
A bit too short
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Tue 4th Sep 2018 - Squamish | |||||||
Smoke Bluffs Smoke Bluff Wall and Environs Upper Levels | |||||||
5.10a 5.10b | ★★ Jabberwocky - with Luke | 20m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
The start is a little harder for a shortie!
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Mon 27th Aug 2018 - Squamish | |||||||
Smoke Bluffs Penny Lane | |||||||
5.10d 5.10c | ★★ Popeye and the Raven | 25m, 4 | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Quality granite stemming! Some gear required to protect the start (and possibly the very end) of this route. Most of the difficult climbing is bolt-protected, however.
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Sun 26th Aug 2018 - Squamish | |||||||
Smoke Bluffs Ronin's Corner Left Side | |||||||
5.10d | OAM - Open Air Mission | 25m | Average | ||||
Interesting routefinding, but a tad overgrown!
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Sun 26th Aug 2018 - Squamish | |||||||
Smoke Bluffs Penny Lane | |||||||
5.9 | ★★★ Penny Lane | 30m | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Slippery crux, otherwise quality movement.
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Sun 26th Aug 2018 - Squamish | |||||||
Smoke Bluffs Blind Channel Crags The Zip | |||||||
5.10a | ★★★ The Zip - with theberg, Ann-Marie | 20m | ★★★ Classic | ||||
One of the best crack in the area!
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Sun 26th Aug 2018 - Squamish | |||||||
Smoke Bluffs Burgers and Fries | |||||||
5.10c 5.10b | ★ Catch Me Quicker - with Nick Wittenberg, Duncan, Ann-marie | 25m | ★ Good | ||||
Fell at the crux
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5.9 5.10a | ★ Move it on Over - with Nick Wittenberg, Duncan, Ann-marie | 25m | ★ Good | ||||
Not so good with slab thing...
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5.10a | ★ Short and Sweet - with Nick Wittenberg, Duncan, Ann-marie | 15m | ★ Good | ||||
Quite nice and pleasant!
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Fri 24th Aug 2018 - Squamish | |||||||
Smoke Bluffs Smoke Bluff Wall and Environs Upper Levels | |||||||
5.9 | ★★ Wonderland | 30m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Some awkward moves, but nice exposure! Makes for a memorable finish to the SBC.
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Thu 23rd Aug 2018 - Squamish | |||||||
Smoke Bluffs Penny Lane | |||||||
5.8 | ★★ Quarryman - with kate barraclough | 25m | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Fantastic!
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5.9 | ★★★ Penny Lane - with kate barraclough | 30m | ★★★ Mega Classic | ||||
Superb climbing!
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Sun 19th Aug 2018 - Squamish | |||||||
Smoke Bluffs Smoke Bluff Wall and Environs Zombie Roof Area | |||||||
C1 5.13a | ★★★ Zombie Roof | 20m | ★★★ Mega Classic | ||||
Lead aid solo
Approx 70mins lead, 60mins to clean including rock retrieved for the wires. Need to work on roof cleaning. Used floating 3rd et, not that useful
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Sun 19th Aug 2018 - Squamish | |||||||
Smoke Bluffs Penny Lane | |||||||
5.10a | ★ The Ugly American | 25m | Average | ||||
Weird climb, spicy moves down low with difficult pro leading to persistently awkward moves. Pro mostly odd pockets, would have preferred more stoppers and totems.
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5.11a | ★★★ Partners in Crime | 25m | |||||
Pretty commuting start leading to good finger locks and average feet. Showstopper final moves - used a stacked finger jam in a dirty shallow groove and mantled. Dogged down low and at the crux, good J's are there but hard to see if you get suckered out left
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5.9 | ★★★ Penny Lane | 30m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
One funky move with a finger locks with slabby feet lead to a rambly upper with good jams. Belay from tree/natural pro, deacent anchor climbers left.
Wished I'd Brought more.nuts, it eats em.
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Fri 17th Aug 2018 - Squamish | |||||||
Smoke Bluffs Penny Lane | |||||||
5.10c | ★★ Popeye and the Raven | 25m, 4 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Very very fun. Good stemming, and "sportingly bolted". I wouldn't call this a sport route.
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Wed 15th Aug 2018 - Squamish | |||||||
Smoke Bluffs Crag X Lower Crag X | |||||||
5.10c | ★★★ Centre Street | 45m | |||||
Can't remember if it was clean
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5.10b | ★★ The Gloaming | 50m | |||||
,5.10a guidebook
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Wed 15th Aug 2018 - Squamish | |||||||
Smoke Bluffs Crag X Upper Crag X | |||||||
5.11a | ★★ Fingerlickin' Good | 18m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Bit dirty, aided through both cruxes, would like to blame it on the dirty condition
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Wed 15th Aug 2018 - Squamish | |||||||
Smoke Bluffs Smoke Bluff Wall and Environs Upper Levels | |||||||
5.7 | ★★★ Laughing Crack | 25m | |||||
Last climb of day, toes sufferin
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Sun 12th Aug 2018 - Squamish | |||||||
Smoke Bluffs Parking Lot Wall | |||||||
A1 5.6 | ★ Definitely not the Dawn Wall | 10m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Got lazy up top and placed an undersized offset nut, held for the lead and ripped it on solo TR laps...oops. Lead aid solo+8 TR laps.
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Fri 10th Aug 2018 - Squamish | |||||||
Smoke Bluffs Burgers and Fries | |||||||
5.11a | ★ Genetically Superior Neighbour | 22m | |||||
Hard slab, couldn't pull the move to get established low down.
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5.4 | ★ Dusty Eyes | 30m | |||||
Someone has installed some fries on the route....but couldn't find the burger
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Wed 8th Aug 2018 - Squamish | |||||||
Smoke Bluffs Smoke Bluff Wall and Environs Mosquito Area | |||||||
5.8 | ★★ Mosquito | 25m | |||||
Lovely climb, unfortunately the approaching sun, crying child down low and road noise up high takes off a star. Reminds me how I loathe laybacking. Great climb, feels solid for .8
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Wed 8th Aug 2018 - Squamish | |||||||
Smoke Bluffs Neat and Cool | |||||||
5.6 | ★ Corn Flakes | 25m | |||||
Worth it, stays in shade a bit longer then the others
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Wed 8th Aug 2018 - Squamish | |||||||
Smoke Bluffs Krack Rock | |||||||
5.8 | ★★ On Sight Inc. ((unknown name)) | 25m | |||||
Guidebook name -onsight
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5.7 | Pieces of Eight Left | 15m | |||||
Marker for the crack - guidebook 5.7 but Redpoint after a few takes, technical start, not sure it was the right climb
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Sat 4th Aug 2018 - Squamish | |||||||
Smoke Bluffs Smoke Bluff Wall and Environs Mosquito Area | |||||||
5.10b | ★★ Smoke Bluff Connection | 90m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Increased grade due to 3rd pitch rated at 10b, and top of 4th pitch totally glassed out by gear drag - very little friction in the fist-crack!
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Sun 29th Jul 2018 - Squamish | |||||||
Smoke Bluffs Penny Lane | |||||||
5.10d 5.10c | ★★ Popeye and the Raven | 25m, 4 | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Classic, tech slab open stem corner.
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5.8 | ★★ Quarryman | 25m | ★★★ Mega Classic | ||||
As good as it gets for the grade.
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Fri 20th Jul 2018 - Squamish | |||||||
Smoke Bluffs Funarama | |||||||
5.9 | ★★ Funarama - with Deano | 15m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Was hot in the sun, so Deano just moved the anchor across from Point Blank. Would be good to have a small wire for the last move.
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5.9 | ★★ Point Blank - with Deano | 18m | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Super fun mantle to get the horizontal, then rattly fingers with hand jam pods to top
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Sat 14th Jul 2018 - Squamish | |||||||
Smoke Bluffs Crag X Auntie Gravity | |||||||
5.6 | Muffy Crack | 18m | |||||
Making myself feel better about leading things.
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Sat 14th Jul 2018 - Squamish | |||||||
Smoke Bluffs Krack Rock | |||||||
5.6 | ★ Fairy Ring | 20m | |||||
Not getting anywhere
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5.6 | ★ Fairy Ring | 20m | |||||
Even after nick put it up I was struggling
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5.7 | ★ Turkey Dinner | 20m | |||||
In which I alternate between flailing and being so wedged in the crack that I can’t move upwards.
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Sat 14th Jul 2018 - Squamish | |||||||
Smoke Bluffs Crag X Runestone wall | |||||||
5.3 | ★ Sigurd | 15m | Average | ||||
Getting confidence placing gear back after being shut down by fairy ring. It is a bit of a pointless climb though.
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Tue 10th Jul 2018 - Squamish | |||||||
Smoke Bluffs Burgers and Fries | |||||||
5.8 | ★ Libya Sucks | 25m | ★ Good | ||||
Thought this was the 5.10 and were very impressed with ourselves. Lol no. Nick aided the start and I think I used some top rope tension so logging 5.8.
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Sun 8th Jul 2018 - Squamish | |||||||
Smoke Bluffs Penny Lane | |||||||
5.9 | ★★ Up Up and Away | 30m | |||||
That was really hard
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Wed 4th Jul 2018 - Squamish | |||||||
Smoke Bluffs Neat and Cool | |||||||
5.10a | ★★★ Neat and Cool | 30m | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Could have protected the start a better with a cam.
Felt a little like soloing as I wasn't sure the nuts I put in were great. Super fun pumpy moves. Felt great to get up it.
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5.10a | ★★★ Flying Circus | 25m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Super fun finger locks the whole way. Bit exposed !
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Tue 3rd Jul 2018 - Squamish | |||||||
Smoke Bluffs Penny Lane | |||||||
5.11b | ★★★ The Yorkshire Gripper - with Crazy john | 25m | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Awesome, and with solid gear. 0.75BD and smaller cams, with good wires too. Hard mantle at the top.
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5.10d 5.10c | ★★ Popeye and the Raven - with Crazy john | 25m, 4 | ★★★ Classic | ||||
10c in the guide. Thought the crux was over and then found the real crux...Placed a wire at the start of the corner, then another after the 2nd bolt.
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Wed 27th Jun 2018 - Squamish | |||||||
Smoke Bluffs Crag X Supervalue | |||||||
5.10c | ★★★ Supervalue | 35m, 4 | |||||
Overrated and full of rope drag. It's weird that this is an exam route for guides.
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5.12b | ★★ True Love | 40m | |||||
Hard. Super cryptic move pulling onto that final slab which I didn't figure out.
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Fri 8th Jun 2018 - Squamish | |||||||
Smoke Bluffs Alexis | |||||||
5.7 | ★★ Alexis Cracks - with heather cowan | 9m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
First time beginner lead.
Found that lower crack area was wet.
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Thu 24th May 2018 - Squamish | |||||||
Smoke Bluffs Octopus' Garden | |||||||
5.7 | ★ Edible Panties | 20m | ★★★ Classic | ||||
5.9 start of the ground but with good pro throughout
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Sun 13th May 2018 - Squamish | |||||||
Smoke Bluffs Burgers and Fries | |||||||
5.7 | ★★ Wisecrack | 25m | ★ Good | ||||
TR. Trad not required.
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5.9 5.10a | ★ Move it on Over | 25m | ★ Good | ||||
TRd it. Not trad.
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Wed 9th May 2018 - Squamish | |||||||
Smoke Bluffs Tunnel Rock | |||||||
5.10c | ★★ Three Shot Face | 10m, 1 | ★ Good | ||||
Very good route but needs a bit of traffic as some moss on the crux move
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Sun 6th May 2018 - Squamish | |||||||
Smoke Bluffs Split Beaver | |||||||
5.10a 5.9 | ★★ Heavenly Ladder | 20m | Average | ||||
TR, not Trad
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Fri 4th May 2018 - Squamish | |||||||
Smoke Bluffs Octopus' Garden | |||||||
5.11b | ★★ Electric Ball | 18m | ★★★ Classic | ||||
still a bit wet
|
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5.8 | ★★★ Octopus' Garden in the Shade | 20m | ★★★ Classic | ||||
lots of yellow red and green cams, solid gear
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