Grade | Route | Gear style | Quality | Climber | |||
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Fri 23rd Jun 2017 - Squamish | |||||||
Smoke Bluffs Pixie's Corner | |||||||
5.12c | ★★ Digital Dexterity | 15m | |||||
Can confirm this thing is hard. Has less to do with the dexterity of your digits and more to do with recyclability of your rubber. I don't think I can afford to project this one...
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Tue 20th Jun 2017 - Squamish | |||||||
Smoke Bluffs Pixie's Corner | |||||||
5.11a | Captain Hornblower | 15m | |||||
Blew on a shoe. Damn.
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Mon 19th Jun 2017 - Squamish | |||||||
Smoke Bluffs Split Beaver | |||||||
5.10b | Crimson Crack | 20m | |||||
Rope-solo.
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5.10b | ★★★ Split Beaver | 30m | |||||
x2 laps.
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Thu 15th Jun 2017 - Squamish | |||||||
Smoke Bluffs Neat and Cool | |||||||
5.10a | ★★★ Flying Circus | 25m | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Felt a bit stout for the grade I thought
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5.9 | ★ Lieback Flake | 25m | ★ Good | ||||
Takes some gear and has a bolt
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5.10a | ★★★ Neat and Cool | 30m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Yay, steep jugs
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5.10c | ★ Geritol | 20m, 2 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Felt easier than flying circus, nice crimps and edges up a dyke, yay, face climbing!
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Wed 14th Jun 2017 - Squamish | |||||||
Smoke Bluffs Smoke Bluff Wall and Environs Mosquito Area | |||||||
5.8 | ★★ Sphinx'ter Quits | 25m, 4 | ★ Good | ||||
Rpt
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5.8 | ★★ Phlegmish Dance | 15m | ★ Good | ||||
Rpt, led it as one long pitch
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5.10b | ★ S-M's Delight | 25m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Rpt apparently
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5.8 | ★★ Mosquito | 25m | ★ Good | ||||
Rpt led it
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Sun 11th Jun 2017 - Squamish | |||||||
Smoke Bluffs Crag X Supervalue | |||||||
5.9 | ★ Picket Line | 35m | ★ Good | ||||
A bit Ledgy, but quite nice
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5.9 | ★★ Cold Comfort | 20m | Average | ||||
Not a 5 star route as the book says, kind of ok finger crack
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5.10c 5.10c/d | ★ Lust | 22m, 4 | Average | ||||
Some good bits, but seemed a bit easy, must have been the crimps
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Sun 11th Jun 2017 - Squamish | |||||||
Smoke Bluffs Crag X Lower Crag X | |||||||
5.10c | ★★★ Centre Street - with David Gray | 45m | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Long and subtle
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Wed 7th Jun 2017 - Squamish | |||||||
Smoke Bluffs Octopus' Garden | |||||||
5.9 | ★★ Unearthly Delights | 20m | ★ Good | ||||
Giving the new shoes a burn. I need a new body though
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5.8 | ★★★ Octopus' Garden in the Shade | 20m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Survived the walk up on jelly legs, the climb seemed ok
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5.7 | ★ Edible Panties | 20m | ★ Good | ||||
All over after the start
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5.8 | ★ Call Any Vegetable | 20m | ★ Good | ||||
A #3 size crack, fortunately a slabby one
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Mon 5th Jun 2017 - Squamish | |||||||
Smoke Bluffs Blind Channel Crags The Zip | |||||||
5.10b | ★ Crystal Ball | 22m | ★ Good | ||||
Blowing away some cobwebs, nice to be out climbing at 8pm after sleeping all day
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5.10a | ★★★ The Zip | 20m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Even jet lagged and flu ridden I could appreciate the quality of this route
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Sat 3rd Jun 2017 - Squamish | |||||||
Smoke Bluffs Ronin's Corner Central | |||||||
5.9 | ★★ Ridge Runner | 25m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Very good - airy climbing with a big runout to start.
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5.10c | ★ Desperado | 28m | Average | ||||
Made it, with a rest on gear partway. Should go though!
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5.6 | ★★ MCM | 22m | ★ Good | ||||
Fun run up to set a toprope for some friends.
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Sat 20th May 2017 - Squamish | |||||||
Smoke Bluffs Burgers and Fries | |||||||
5.10b | French Leave - with Jason | 18m, 3 | |||||
clean. cool route
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Sat 20th May 2017 - Squamish | |||||||
Smoke Bluffs Blind Channel Crags High Cliff | |||||||
5.6 | ★ The Gift - with Jason | 15m | |||||
Jason's second onsight!
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5.10b | ★ Twenty Minute Workout - with First attempt to redpoint. failed. Jams are finicky and I ended up putting gear where i wanted my hands, Jason | 8m | ★ Good | ||||
First attempt to redpoint. Fingers are finicky and I put gear where I wanted my hands so failed
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5.10b | ★ Twenty Minute Workout - with Jason | 8m | ★ Good | ||||
first treadpoint
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5.10b | ★ Twenty Minute Workout - with Daphne | 8m | ★ Good | ||||
second attempt but too tired.
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5.11c | ★ Lord of the Drink - with Jason | 10m, 4 | |||||
this is really damn hard
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Fri 19th May 2017 - Squamish | |||||||
Smoke Bluffs Tunnel Rock | |||||||
5.9 | ★★ Easy Skankin' | 23m | |||||
Downclimb.
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5.10d 5.10c | ★★ Easy Skankin' (10c) | 23m, 2 | |||||
Quite tricky slabbing off the deck (failed on the onsight actually) then mellow.
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Fri 19th May 2017 - Squamish | |||||||
Smoke Bluffs Octopus' Garden | |||||||
5.12a | ★★ Leonissisation | 25m, 10 | |||||
Gave it a burn today but no joy.
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Wed 10th May 2017 - Squamish | |||||||
Smoke Bluffs Octopus' Garden | |||||||
5.12a | ★★ Leonissisation | 25m, 10 | |||||
One-hang and after having forgotten the entire climb! Such nice features. I'm just stoked to be climbing this thing again!
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Sun 7th May 2017 - Squamish | |||||||
Smoke Bluffs Smoke Bluff Wall and Environs Upper Levels | |||||||
5.7 | ★★★ Laughing Crack | 25m | ★★★ Mega Classic | ||||
Came back to see how I'd do on it. Awesome jams and good features on the slab.
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Sun 7th May 2017 - Squamish | |||||||
Smoke Bluffs Blind Channel Crags High Cliff | |||||||
5.11c | ★ Lord of the Drink - with Daphne | 10m, 4 | |||||
Found a really cool sidepull and heel hook combo
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5.6 | ★ The Gift | 15m | |||||
Nice crack
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5.10b | ★ Twenty Minute Workout | 8m | ★★★ Mega Classic | ||||
High point. Almost sent it
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5.10b | ★ Twenty Minute Workout | 8m | ★★★ Mega Classic | ||||
Fell at the same spot at the crux transitioning to the right crack. Found a good position.
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Sun 7th May 2017 - Squamish | |||||||
Smoke Bluffs Blind Channel Crags The Zip | |||||||
5.10a | ★★★ The Zip | 20m | ★★★ Mega Classic | ||||
Awesome hand crack. Going to go back for this one. Greasy crux
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Sat 6th May 2017 - Squamish | |||||||
Smoke Bluffs Neat and Cool | |||||||
5.10a | ★★★ Neat and Cool | 30m | |||||
High point but the crux was hard. Pushed against the high right foot instead of levering off it and then walked my hands up
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5.6 | ★ Corn Flakes - with Daphne | 25m | |||||
Down climb
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5.9 | ★ Lieback Flake - with Daphne | 25m | |||||
Climbed the slab
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5.10b | ★ Pink Flamingo | 15m, 3 | |||||
Scary. Insecure slab moves with really high first bolt
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5.10b | ★ Raging Duck | 18m, 5 | |||||
Fun. Kind of felt insecure
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5.10a | ★★★ Flying Circus | 25m | ★ Good | ||||
Retro tredpoint
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5.11a | ★★ Fear of Flying | 25m, 2 | |||||
Felt good. Lots of good crystals to edge off of. Good hands free holds. Probably will try this on lead
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Fri 5th May 2017 - Squamish | |||||||
Smoke Bluffs Penny Lane | |||||||
5.10a | ★ Health Hazard | 25m, 2 | |||||
Not bad.
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5.11c | Weenie | 25m | |||||
Feels like a sandbag to me. Specially in today's muggy conditions. Won't be coming back to this one.
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Fri 5th May 2017 - Squamish | |||||||
Smoke Bluffs Ronin's Corner Central | |||||||
5.10b | ★ Wobbler | 28m | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Hot, wet and thoroughly unpleasant today.
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Fri 28th Apr 2017 - Squamish | |||||||
Smoke Bluffs Smoke Bluff Wall and Environs Mosquito Area | |||||||
5.11b 5.11a | Alien Sex Fiends | ||||||
Quite good. This will go next time. Heady to the first bolt off the belay.
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Sun 9th Apr 2017 - Squamish | |||||||
Smoke Bluffs Pixie's Corner | |||||||
5.10b | ★★ White Rabbit - with bertin | 10m | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Really fun once I figured out the beta. Can't wait to lead this
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Sun 9th Apr 2017 - Squamish | |||||||
Smoke Bluffs Smoke Bluff Wall and Environs Mosquito Area | |||||||
5.8 | ★★ Mosquito - with bertin | 25m | |||||
Fun and less tricky than I remember
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5.11a | Alien Sex Fiends - with bertin | ||||||
So hard but a few really cool moves
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5.8 | ★★ Phlegmish Dance - with bertin | 15m | |||||
Wet
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Sun 9th Apr 2017 - Squamish | |||||||
Smoke Bluffs Pixie's Corner | |||||||
5.8 | ★★ Pixie Corner (Pixie's Corner) | 15m | |||||
Pretty good
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5.10b | Trixie | 8m | |||||
So fun until the slab. Took a mini whip there
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5.12c | ★★ Digital Dexterity - with Daphne | 15m | ★★★ Mega Classic | ||||
So freaking fun!! I didn't know my feet could stick to those crystals!
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Sat 1st Apr 2017 - Squamish | |||||||
Smoke Bluffs Neat and Cool | |||||||
5.11b 5.11c | Toasted Tits | 20m | |||||
Working it.
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Tue 21st Mar 2017 - Squamish | |||||||
Smoke Bluffs Neat and Cool | |||||||
5.11a 5.11c | Toasted Tits | 20m | |||||
This thing is fer sure harder than Fear Fear of Flying. Maybe harder than pink panther. More like 11c to me.
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Sun 19th Mar 2017 - Squamish | |||||||
Smoke Bluffs Burgers and Fries | |||||||
5.11a | ★ Genetically Superior Neighbour - with Bertin | 22m | |||||
Really fun! Tricky getting to the first bolt if you don't use the crack, but after that is fun.
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Sun 19th Mar 2017 - Squamish | |||||||
Smoke Bluffs Penny Lane | |||||||
5.12c | ★★★ Sunny Days In December | 35m | |||||
Quite a hard smearing move which I did not have time to figure out.
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5.11c | ★★★ Crime of the Century | 15m | |||||
Was having a high gravity day. I'm gonna start throwing lead laps on this route to get my head back in the game.
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Mon 13th Mar 2017 - Squamish | |||||||
Smoke Bluffs Penny Lane | |||||||
5.12b | Kahoukers | 25m | |||||
New proj before it gets sunny
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Sat 28th Jan 2017 - Squamish | |||||||
Smoke Bluffs Neat and Cool | |||||||
5.9 | ★ Lieback Flake - with Bertin | 25m | |||||
Slab portion - pretty fun
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Wed 12th Oct 2016 - Squamish | |||||||
Smoke Bluffs Neat and Cool | |||||||
5.11a | ★★ Kangaroo Corner - with Bertin | 15m | ★★★ Classic | ||||
First 11a!
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Thu 6th Oct 2016 - Squamish | |||||||
Smoke Bluffs Neat and Cool | |||||||
5.11a | ★★ Kangaroo Corner - with bertin | 15m | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Headlamp ascent
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5.10a | ★★★ Flying Circus | 25m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Scary finger crack
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Sun 2nd Oct 2016 - Squamish | |||||||
Smoke Bluffs Spiderfly | |||||||
25 5.12a | ★★★ Spiderfly | 10m | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Oh fuck yer bud (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=F-glHAzXi_M). My third trad 25. And the same week to boot! Best climb in the Bluffs.
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Fri 30th Sep 2016 - Squamish | |||||||
Smoke Bluffs Split Beaver | |||||||
5.11c | Organ Failure | 15m | |||||
Burned off this today on the sharpie but it felt smoother. Challenging face slab techerry. Good warm ups nearby though.
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Fri 30th Sep 2016 - Squamish | |||||||
Smoke Bluffs Spiderfly | |||||||
5.12a | ★★★ Spiderfly | 10m | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Gave this two good lead burns today. A 2-hang and then a 1-hang, the latter being more of a "hey lets just fall off the 5.10 top out locks after you've pulled the cruxes and shaken out for a bit. I've never fallen off the top till today. Lawwwwl. Anyway, shit happens. Even though the sending is scarce, all the training value I'm getting from repeatedly climbing 5.12 finger cracks is turning me into a machine since a one-hang as far as your body is concerned is basically like finding a mid-route no hands rest. So it's nice to know that I'm getting better!
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Mon 26th Sep 2016 - Squamish | |||||||
Smoke Bluffs Split Beaver | |||||||
5.11c | Organ Failure | 15m | |||||
I believe the guidebook calls this .11b but that .11c is acceptable to me. It's not a sandbag at .11b but it would be stiff for the grade.
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Mon 26th Sep 2016 - Squamish | |||||||
Smoke Bluffs Penny Lane | |||||||
5.11b | Jangling Ball Wall | 30m | |||||
Gonna put it out there that this is a Penny Lane .11b. I think the mantle crux is harder than the crux on the Yorkshire Gripper. Direct finish up the crack at the top is best.
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Sun 25th Sep 2016 - Squamish | |||||||
Smoke Bluffs Blind Channel Crags High Cliff | |||||||
5.10b | ★ Twenty Minute Workout - with bert | 8m | ★ Good | ||||
left facing corner, finger crack.
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Sun 25th Sep 2016 - Squamish | |||||||
Smoke Bluffs Bughouse Heights | |||||||
5.11b | The Seam | 3 | |||||
Quite tricky.
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Fri 23rd Sep 2016 - Squamish | |||||||
Smoke Bluffs Alexis | |||||||
5.10c | ★ White Streak | 9m, 3 | |||||
Stupidly bolted. What is the point of making a stick clip route? Good climbing though.
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Tue 13th Sep 2016 - Squamish | |||||||
Smoke Bluffs Spiderfly | |||||||
5.12a | ★★★ Spiderfly | 10m | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Couplea hangs with the new kicks. They did, indeed, make all the difference. I'm close.
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Sat 10th Sep 2016 - Squamish | |||||||
Smoke Bluffs Spiderfly | |||||||
5.10d | ★★ Something Short | 8m | |||||
And another re-point just for good measure.
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5.12a | ★★★ Spiderfly | 10m | ★★★ Classic | ||||
I've been dialing the moves in after work quite a bit this week, also experimenting with solo TR setups for those partnerless days when I'm back in Oz. Burned off on lead today but I am witnessing progress. Shoe rubber seemed to be a limiting factor so I went and bought new kicks for my next attempt.
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5.10d | ★★ Something Short | 8m | |||||
And a same day re-point for fitness laps.
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5.10d | ★★ Something Short | 8m | |||||
Sent after burning off Spiderfly.
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Thu 8th Sep 2016 - Squamish | |||||||
Smoke Bluffs Neat and Cool | |||||||
5.10b | ★ Raging Duck | 18m, 5 | Average | ||||
Not the best gear, and not the best climb!
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Sat 3rd Sep 2016 - Squamish | |||||||
Smoke Bluffs Penny Lane | |||||||
5.12b | Kahoukers | 25m | |||||
This route is real but seems like it would go on a good friction day with fresh rubber and sanded tips. Not sure how you'd place the gear though ha-ha
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5.11c | ★★★ Crime of the Century | 15m | |||||
Putting the rope up on Kahoukers.
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5.11c | ★ Teenage Girls Won't Blow Gorbies | ||||||
Gave this a quick rip today. Should go.
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Fri 12th Aug 2016 - Squamish | |||||||
Smoke Bluffs Crag X Boulder Gully | |||||||
5.10a | ★★ Talking Holds - with Deano | 15m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Good fun, and a pumpy warmup!
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5.11b 5.11c | ★★ Turbocharger - with Deano | 12m | ★ Good | ||||
Second shot. Took too long trying to place gear after bolts on first shot. Gear is completely bomb-proof, and not that hard to place once you figure out where! Yellow metolious in finger crack, which is easily passed.
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Fri 12th Aug 2016 - Squamish | |||||||
Smoke Bluffs Crag X Supervalue | |||||||
5.10c | ★★★ Supervalue - with Deano | 35m, 4 | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Great fun, and has a few marginal moves going around the arete. Longer than I expected!
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Sun 7th Aug 2016 - Squamish | |||||||
Smoke Bluffs Penny Lane | |||||||
5.8 | ★★ Quarryman | 25m | |||||
I remember finding this one pretty tough!
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Sat 6th Aug 2016 - Squamish | |||||||
Smoke Bluffs Black Zawn and Environs The Black Zawn | |||||||
5.11a | Perfidious Albion | 30m | |||||
Quite hard. Will go back for it.
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5.10d | Token Brits Direct | 30m | |||||
Fudged the onsight but I'll have to go back for it. Much of the climbing is sporty and difficult to read and the gear is occasionally spicy but it goes well enough.
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Sat 6th Aug 2016 - Squamish | |||||||
Smoke Bluffs Spiderfly | |||||||
5.12a | ★★★ Spiderfly | 10m | ★★★ Classic | ||||
I tried this a year ago with Andrew and it felt way off for both of us. This time I went back with Andrew (who boulders like a madman in that forest) and he went for it ground up, failed, then walked around and rigged the TR. We both gave it to burns each and got it down to one or two hangs. I think this will go for me this season and it will go for Andrew sooner.
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Sat 6th Aug 2016 - Squamish | |||||||
Smoke Bluffs Blind Channel Crags High Cliff | |||||||
5.11d | ★★ Red Nails | ||||||
Gave it an inspection to suss out the gear. Will go for this one ground-up in future. It's hard but sequence-ey!
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Tue 2nd Aug 2016 - Squamish | |||||||
Smoke Bluffs Penny Lane | |||||||
5.9 | ★★★ Penny Lane | 30m | ★★★ Mega Classic | ||||
What a great climb
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Wed 13th Jul 2016 - Squamish | |||||||
Smoke Bluffs Octopus' Garden | |||||||
5.11b | ★★ Electric Ball | 18m | ★★★ Classic | ||||
extremely fun climb, although beyond my leading ability as the last few moves are very diff to protect
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Tue 5th Jul 2016 - Squamish | |||||||
Smoke Bluffs Fern Gully | |||||||
5.11d | The Space Between | 22m | |||||
Should have led this today after dialing in all the moves but it began raining a smidge.
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5.11b | ★ Tools of Moss Destruction | 22m | |||||
Stout.
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Mon 4th Jul 2016 - Squamish | |||||||
Smoke Bluffs Smoke Bluff Wall and Environs Upper Levels | |||||||
5.10b | ★★ Jabberwocky | 20m | |||||
Need to step up my finger crack game.
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Mon 4th Jul 2016 - Squamish | |||||||
Smoke Bluffs Smoke Bluff Wall and Environs Mosquito Area | |||||||
5.8 | ★★ Phlegmish Dance | 15m | ★★★ Mega Classic | ||||
So much fun!
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