Ascents in Smith Rock State Park

My skin started hurting again on the crimps in the upper section...

Hard and reachy crux before the anchors. Someone told us that a hold broke.

Too hard for warm up, then it was too hot. Did a final try in the evening but my skin hurt so much I couldn't even really pull onto the route.

I thought my skin had recovered but crimping in this route hurt so much that I came back down after the fourth quickdraw.

Just checked out the moves. Cruxy section right after the 11a anchor.

Excellent route - not very crimpy, unlike many of the routes in Smith Rock.

First try was not great, but I improved my beta a bit. I felt not good on my second try (maybe too much sun or too little water), and the perma draws might have core-shot our rope (we're not quite sure, it might also have been the draws in Magic Light), so I didn't try again today.

The moves are all okay, putting them together will get hard. Climbed on toprope just past the fourth draw with freezing fingers (out of 7 draws + anchor) on my second try.

Nice multi pitch, with very good second and excellent fourth pitch. The first sport pitch, called 'Gumby' was okay, as was the third pitch, but nothing special.

Very nice cool down route with big buckets. Even though there where also some pretty bad holds in there which was disappointing.

Actually very nice hand crack. The last part involves some down climbing to the anchor. Which feels a bit weird when following. I felt super cold so I said take 2 times. But actually there is good rests and it's a very nice crack route.

Super nice extension of Heinous Cling. But very hard. The crux moves are going left with very high feet on very bad holds. Could not do all the moves in the crux on first try. Runout at the top where you need to traverse left to the anchor of the route next left to it and then go right again. Above the first crux there is a dynamic move to a jug which I could do when placing the feet while sitting in the rope .

Two more tries today. In first try I had to get the beta in again. I did not remember much from yesterday. Then I sent it . Super proud because it involves some big bolt distances and a dynamic move to a good ledge. Before that is very nice climbing on good and not so good pockets (finger holes) and crimps.

Last route of the day, more skin-friendly because my fingertips are already quite thin.

Climbed it again while putting in the quickdraws and twice more as the first part of the full route.

Hard for the grade, but easier than Chain Reaction, at least for me. Definitely doable, but I didn't have enough body tension in the crux after all the climbing below. Only did it with two rests, one after falling in the crux move, and then one at the committing dynamic move above where I wasn't motivated enough after I had already fallen.

Nice crack but the anchor placement is awkward.

First try was on toprope for working the moves. Will try in lead tomorrow.

Nice route, first bolt is rather high and the climbing to the first bolt is hard for 5.10b. @mf clipped it for me . Afterwards technical moves on bad holds

Great route! The bolt distances are far, for me it felt scary especially from 5th to 6th QuickDraw. Would definitely recommend to stick clip the first bolt. It looks easy but it's not that easy. Goes up a flake system (quite pumpy) But has a good rest on top of it. The crux is super nice on small crimps and rather bad holds. The top is still challenging since the holds not not get better. Needed 6 tries in total

Felt like the hardest 5.12c I tried so far, I did it in single moves and had to fight for most moves after the second quickdraw. You have to bump up the right hand on an arête and then somehow avoid barn dooring out of the wall, which I found extremely hard. After a couple of hard moves, it gets slightly easier. There is a far move with the left hand to a jug over the lip of the roof and then a jump to a jug on the right (it's possible to do it with at least the left foot staying on the wall, but I only managed it by cutting loose completely). The jump is okay when you've had a rest but after climbing the crux below it's going to be quite hard. Short route, but quite a lot of hard moves in a row.

Put in a .4 and .5 cam before the first bolt because the bolt is quite high. There is a clear crux move for me: bumping the left hand with bad feet to an absolute jug. The crux is quite high above the last bolt, but the fall is safe.

First try today while putting in the quickdraws

Small hand and foot holds throughout the entire route. There is no crux, the route is consistently hard.

Almost sent it in the fourth try while it was raining. The crux does unfortunately get a bit wet, but I did actually climb it for the first time in the fourth try - my left hand slipped just after the crux. Not so sure if I will be able to climb 5.13 in Smith Rock if I already need more than 4 attempts on 12b...