Gibraltar Peak Guide

There is a photo of this fine route up an orange open-book corner on the inside cover of the ACT Granite Guide. The first two thirds are about grade 23 and nice climbing. The last few metres will be 27 or 28 and are tenuous and thin. The start is left and around the corner from Poultry in Motion.

A good little shady slab. The start is located about 30m left of the tourist track. Leave the track near the information sign. As of January 2016 the approach is a little overgrown and you'll have to push through light scrub. It's worth persevering though, and the climb itself is clean. Belay on shrubs and gear.

The body chimney with a chockstone, left of 'Armless'.

A strenuous off-width, in case you're into that sort of thing... At the same level as 'Another Roadside Attraction' and above 'Poultry in Motion', the obvious, leftwards leaning off-width. Place a high runner in the chimney, then up the outside into the off-width.

Start five metres left of 'Blue Lights', just right of the obvious crack. Climb the thin crack. Step around to a corner then up an easy face to finish.

The awkward leaning corner crack immediately right of the tourist track. Finish up slabby arete. Walk off.

Start at the crack 6m right of Blue Lights, on the other side of the same boulder. This is just left of Another Roadside Attraction. Climb crack for 4m and pike left onto mossy slab. Finish as for Blue Lights. DBB and walk off.

Start as for Lengthways Chinaman but keep going up the right-curving crack. Belay as for Blue Lights. Walk off.

The obvious corner crack right of the tourist track. A good line.

Ugh. The crack three metres right of 'Another Roadside Attraction'. Gain the crack which is hard to get established in and then turns into a hideous off-width. Finish with a chest jam!

Start two metres right of 'Kate's Bush'. Up and right past the first bolt. Cross the face to the crack on the right, then up the slab past the second bolt.

Almost as long as the name. Start 15 metres right of 'Bad Luck Sir'. Up the right-hand corner with a no-hands rest halfway, then power up the strenuous crack to finish.

"Maybe if you take out the bolts, nobody will know." - Joe Lynch. The short slab on a hidden boulder 15 metres left of 'Blue Stumps' as you face uphill. Up past two bolts. Rope stretching!

Quite good. The brushed wall with two bolts about 100 metres right of 'Another Roadside Attraction'. Start up to the left of a vegetated off-width chimney. Hard moves up to and past the first bolt lead to a mantle and the second bolt. Continue up the slab to a tree belay at the end of the boulder.

Just right of 'Arse Bandit' and the vegetated chimney. The wall with a thin start and a diagonal crack near the top.

On the left end of a large wall about 20 metres right of 'Arse Bandit'. Up the twin crack system with a bush at half height.

The crack downhill and 30 metres right of 'Barry the Radish' (50 metres left of and slightly uphill from 'Overnight Sensation'). Climb into the cave and left into the crack. Exit with difficulty onto the slab above.

A superb finger crack, with a bulging start. It is on the downhill side of a straight-sided boulder about 150 metres right from 'Another Roadside Attraction'.

Two pitches can be done independently; second pitch can be accessed by scrambling up the chimney to the left of Fat and Healthy. Only second pitch shown on topo - up and left past two bolts to the summit.

1. 12m - Start opposite Skippy's slab. Up the brushed wall past 2 bolts

2. 8m - Hard moves past two more bolts to the top

Start about 30 metres left of 'Sound as a Trout'. Up the dirty scoop and pull onto the slab above. Originally two bolts, now back in its natural state of none.

Start about eight metres left of 'Sound as a Trout'. Climb the wall and arete with three bolts. The crux is past the first bolt.

Up the blunt arete on the right-hand side as you enter the Sound as a Trout passageway.

Sustained and varied. Start in the passage in the middle of the summit boulders. Bridge up to the first bolt and crimp your way past two more. Climb the crack to a small patform. Belay off White Rabbit's abseil station.

Popular. Start a few metres right of SAAT. Up the dark slab to emerge through the hole. Optional cam. Belay off rap anchor.

A good route that should be on every Canberra beginner's hitlist. The start is located in the bowels of the earth. Scramble into the chimney just right of Roxely RIP. Climb the nice handcrack that widens until you emerge onto a sunny slab. Up past two bolts to Rap station. The 2nd edition of the granite guide mentioned a RHV past a bolt. This bolt is probably part of a finish to Midsummer Madness.

Walk through the passageway to a large oblique slab wedged across its eastern exit. Climb to the top of the slab. Step left onto the steep chimney wall and move up to the right of the huge jammed chockstone. Chimney easily to the summit.

Start 2m right of WR. Up the slab and onto the headwall.

Start on the dirty slab below the southern side of the summit group of boulders. Up to a sloping ledge, right and onto upper slab and into an easy left leaning crack.

Start on the southern side of the summit group of boulders at a left leaning fist crack. Up the flake and diagonal crack. Move left along the ledge and up the slab past a bolt to the summit. Down-climb and go to the pub. Take Camalot 2-4.

The obvious chimney six metres right of 'Midsummer Madness'.

Popular beginner route. The slab past one bolt to rap anchor. Rebolted 2007 (approx).

The blunt arete and slab 5m right of My Name is Luka. Can take a small cam. Rap anchor. Bolt replaced 2009.

Popular. Located around the corner from Skippy slab. Carefully walk across the slab to the DBB. Climb the delicate slab trending left past 2 bolts. Rap station as for Skippy Slab. Rebolted 2013.

Sustained unit right of Gooney Waltz. Start from the DBB. Head slightly right to the 1st BR then back left past 3 more. Rebolted 2007 (Approx).

The bolted line on the downhill side of the Skippy Slab boulder, which you walk past on the way to the 'Egg Cave'. Chipped but still quite hard. Rebolted 2013.

Still OK post fire - some of the flakes have blown off making it more reachy and some that remain are very creaky. Rebolted 2006 (approx)

A modern classic with technical and varied moves, well protected by six bolts. Exfoliated post fires. Start below the huge hanging boulder on the right arete. Rebolted 2013.

Start in the tunnel 3m left of Gorgeous Turn Me On.

Start 1m left of Easy Rider. The sharp seam to DBB. Continue up Easy Rider.

Walk through the egg cave and Easy Rider is on your left.

1. 10m (17) Straight up past bolt to DBB. Originally graded 12.

2. 8m (17) Big rockover onto the egg and walk up the slab to DBB.

3. 13m (14) A short walk over to the Goony Waltz boulder. Step across and pad up clean slab past 2 bolts to rap chains on the 'Skippy's Slab' boulder.

Rebolted 2011. Now with fixed hangers.

Start about 15m down and right from Easy Rider. The steep slab on flakes and sorry looking carrots. Finish up ER. The original route climbed well but has since exfoliated. Best to keep off.

The obvious corner crack down and right from 'Milwaulkee Pig Iron' (at the same level and 10 metres left of 'My Generation') - it had repelled a number of attempts over the years. Finish up a slab to a bolt belay.

Start left of Lord Bailey on a ledge. The route is actually on the uphill side of the Ape boulder. Best to tie the belayer in (cams). Climb the sustained slab out to the airy arete. Drift back right after the last bolt through some lichen. Belay of gear well back.

The slick arete down and left of the Skylark crack. Chain lower off.

Classic. Scene of many spectacular whippers. Start on a boulder below and to the left of Consumer Item. Traverse on flakes across the overhanging slab. Up the sustained crack.

The slab and arete left of Nailbighter.

The aesthetic splitter on the uphill side of the spike. Thin hands. There is a rap anchor on top.

The steepish slab to the right of Nailbiter. Considered hard for the grade.

Start at the horizontal crack which leads around the boulder from 'Nail Biter'.

1. 15 metres - Aid horizontally rightwards around the boulder for 180 degrees to a hanging belay on nuts, arrows and leepers.

2. 10 metres - Free up the overhanging crack.

At the left end of the wall. Up the brushed groove and crack past a bolt. A fixed #3 RP was flogged, so take your own...

The improbable looking wall five metres right (about 10 metres left of 'Tri State'), featuring hard wall climbing on sharp and friable holds. Climb the brushed wall with three bolts. The crux is after the second bolt.

Gear required to belay at top - or wrap your rope around a boulder.

Start just left of 'Tri State'. Up the wall and slab with four bolts.

Gear required to belay at top - or wrap your rope around a boulder.

The clean, wavy slab left of 'The Groove'. Start at the obvious holds on the left, about six metres up 'The Groove', and move up to a bolt. Up the cleaned slab passing a second (originally graded 23).

Gear required to belay at top - or wrap your rope around a boulder.

Commonly used as a descent scramble, but originally reported as a climb.

Start below a slightly cleaner section of rock about four metres left of 'Hey Jude'. One hard move at the start: up the wall for a few metres, then diagonally left to a flake above 'The Groove'. Follow the cleaned patches to the top.

The brushed slab right of 'Dear Prudence', with two bolts. Start on the large flake halfway up the wall.

Start at the corner 10 metres right of 'The Groove'. Up the corner and left across the scoop. Climb onto the large flake and move left to join 'The Groove'.

Start as for 'Tiptoe'. Up the easy corner, then up a steeper one to a ledge. Walk along this to the right and then up the slab as for 'Scarborough Fair'.

Takes the bulging wall with twin thin cracks to the right of 'Hey Jude', past one bolt to join 'Scarborough Fair'.

Highly recommended, the classic of the crag. Start 10 metres right and down from 'Hey Jude', at the obvious rightwards corner crack. Layback up the corner and either step left to avoid the roof (18) or grunt straight through (20). Follow the cracks to the ledge, then up the unprotected slab above to a double carrot bolt belay.

See description for 'Scarborough Fair'.

An aptly named route which is very bouldery. Start on a boulder below a short orange wall about 15 metres downhill from 'Scarborough Fair', through the hole. Use a long stick to clip a bolt and lunge up towards it. If you get this far, a groin stretching bridge onto the opposite boulder relieves the pressure on your fingers. Continue up past a peg and bolt to the top.

Good thin slab climbing up the cleaned strip to the right of 'Scarborough Fair'. Start on top of some blocks six metres to the right of 'Scarborough Fair'. Up the wall and flake to the ledge. Step up and right, and clip two bolts on the way to the top.

Exciting. Originally M4, the free version follows a slightly different line. Start in 'The Pits' proper, below the obvious lines about five metres right of 'Parole'. Subtle moves at half height lead to layaways up the left-hand line. Clip a bolt from the ledge, and up.

Start in 'The Pits' proper, right of Happy Piggyland. Up the crack, chimney past a bolt and squeeze onto the Knife Edge Boulder. Finish as for Holy Guacamole.

The left hand route on the upper tier of the Knife Edge Boulder. Equipped with lower off. Rebolted 2006 (approx).

The popular slab a couple of metres right of V1 Special. Equipped with lower off. Rebolted 2006 (approx).

The left hand route back onto the mainland. Start from DBB on top of the Knife Edge Boulder. Walk down the slab, preclip a bolt, and launch yourself onto the wall. Rebolted 2006 (approx). Tree anchor.

The right hand route back onto the mainland. From the DBB on top of the Knife Edge Boulder walk down the slab and fall across the void. This is best done hands first. Rebolted 2006 (approx). Tree anchor.

The loose chimney at the left-hand side of the roof split by an off-width.

The off-width crack that splits the roof and face overlooking the Knife Edge Boulder.

A steep slab on small edges - Start on the arete left of Heckmondwicke Twist.

Finishing in the far left corner (looking out) of this area, where you pop out from under the huge balanced boulder, is this small gem of a climb, requiring jamming and some constricted slab moves.

One of the harder face climbs around, once upon a time. Start 15 metres right of and below 'Heckmondwike Twist' at the boulder with a dyke and flake. Up the thin and technical wall with four bolts to a tree belay.

The thin corner and arete right of 'French Connections' with a bolt.

The chimney with the crack up the left wall just right of French Connection - FA was done solo

Chimney past bolts on Jihad, then up slab with wires (see ACT Granite p206).

The slabby arete two boulders right of French Connections. "Fantastically thin layaways and edges" off the block past three bolts.

Start 10m left of Juveniles. Traverse left then up the unprotected slab. Belay on gear as for Juveniles P1. Originally soloed by man and beast. Not a good lead for beginners.

Start from the anchors on top of the No Glove Boulder. Walk down the steepish slab towards the Juvenile Wall. Step across the gap and clip the first bolt. Pad up the slab left of Juveniles. Belay on gear.

A popular 2 pitch slab. Start on the right hand side of the gully 25m downhill from French Connections and Heckmondwike Twist. A large burnt fallen log is a good reference point and a good seat for your belayer.

1. 15m (15, crux). Hard start up the flakey black slab, then more easily past 2 bolts. Gear belay.

2. 15m (14). Step onto the block and up the golden headwall (3 bolts). DBB on top of the Knife Edge Boulder.

28m rap from Fouled Up Turkey anchors back to the base.

Start 2m right of Juveniles. The unprotected arete into crack.

Start just right of a large tree about 10m right of the start of Juveniles. Climb the slab trending left. Continue up Juveniles P2 to the top of the Knife Edge Boulder, or trad belay as for Juveniles P1. The first bolt is quite high and there are suspect flakes down low.

Entire route now hidden under fallen tree branches after the fires.

The arête at the left hand (East) end of the black wall - behind you as you start Juvenilles and Geriatrics. Scramble down into a hollow between the route and the No Glove No Love boulder to belay (two bolts).

Bridge up the gully until you can reach around and clip the first bolt on the arete. Step onto the arete and up past five more bolts to lower-offs.

Thin moves up the wall about 10 metres right of 'Aubergine Dream'. Start at the top of 'Blagdon' P1, 'Oddball' etc where the boulder leans against the black wall. Five bolts, with the crux after the second.

The thin sustained wall between 'Le Muir Noir' and 'Antipodean Atrocities'. Start as for 'Le Muir Noir' but head right.

Thin, balancy and sustained climbing. Start as for 'McCoy's Arete'; clip the first bolt on this and climb down to join the dyke. Up this to the top with four bolts and a bolt belay.

Interesting climbing, a good position and an abundance of metal make this route worthwhile. Scramble to the top of the 'Changes' boulder and find a bolt belay. After a bouldery start, climb the arete to the top, clipping four bolts on the way.

And fast drilling. Start 10 metres right of 'McCoy's Arete'. Use a dead branch to get to the first bolt. Crank up on drilled finger pockets to a big flake, then cruise up to the top past two more bolts.

This is the flake on a boulder 10 metres uphill and to the right of 'McCoy's Arete', about level with 'Fast Living'. The overhung start has a technical and strenuous sequence. Originally there was a fixed wire, however this has been stolen. Bolt belay at the top.

Quality well protected slabbing.

Traditionally the access to this climb was down the steep gulley past Juveniles and JAM. However it is easier to scramble up the back of the boulder past a bolt and rap in (DBB). This scramble starts just behind you as you look at the start of Juveniles. As you rap, tension left and clip into the left most line of 3 bolts. A 60m rope is preferable for this exercise. Best to belay off a sling or two at the start.

The climb goes straight up past three bolts and then gradually drifts right. There is optional wires or micro cams near the start.

The line 8m down and right of No Glove. Rap in similar style as No Glove (60m rope required). Start on the low angled mossy slab. Your belayer will be standing on the slab, leaning against the obvious boulder. Climb the slab past 2 bolts. Cruxey before and after the 1st bolt (8m). Treat the flakes with respect.

Very run-out slabbing ... Should be at Booroomba.

Rap in as for On the Beach (60m rope just reaches). Start underneath the blunt arete (about 6m down and right from OTB). Up the slab to join OTB at the second bolt.

Beautiful slab climbing on good rock. Best access is to scramble up the back of the boulder and rap in (refer NGNL, OTB etc). Extend the anchor with a long sling and a 60m rope will just reach. You can walk in but you will be wallowing in scrub.

Start 5m right of OTBDS, directly below the 1st bolt. Legend has it more than one climber as got stuck on the initial overlap and has required assistance from above, Pre or stick clip if you're not solid at the grade.

Start on top of the block between "When Only The Best Will Do" and "Blagdon". Straight up the slab and dyke past seven bolts to anchor.

Ascends 3 boulders to the top of the Knife Edge.

1. 30m (15) The obvious corner/chimney just right of WOTBWD. DBB. Rap down to start of Juveniles.

2. 15m (13) Start 2m right of Juveniles. The arete into crack.

3. 14m (15) The airy groove between the top pitch of Juveniles and Fouled up Turkey. Unprotected.

Climb the chimney of 'Blagdon Amateur Rapist' for five metres to an obvious break on the right wall. Move right onto the slab and traverse right at the weakness to the right arete. Up the arete ('No Easy Street') to finish.

An attempt to create more easy slabs turned into a misguided use of bolts and effort by people who should know better.

Start down and right of 'Rite of Passage', as for 'No Easy Street'. Step onto the boulder and follow the easiest path up and left past bolts until you're on the horizontal weakness of 'Rite of Passage'. Traverse right to gain the crack. Follow the crack and dyke up and left, then easy slabbing to the top.

Technically easy, but poor protection and poor rock make this an interesting excursion. Start 10 metres down and right from 'Blagdon Amateur Rapist'. Climb the slab and arete, then up the ramp to a #2 RP placement; continue up the arete to the top.

Up 'Oddball' for two metres, then left to a bolt. Up the brushed wall passing another bolt on the way to the arete. Finish easily as for 'Oddball'.

Start below a dyke on the western side of the 'Blagdon Amateur Rapist' boulder, about 50 metres around to the right from that climb. Thin climbing to a bolt and up the dyke above past one more bolt (clip with wires). Walk up the arete ('No Easy Street') to belay.

Steep slab climbing. Start, again, as for 'Oddball' to the bolt, then move rightwards along the cleaned streak past three more bolts (the bolts are overdriven - clip with small wires).

Start on the boulder uphill and right of 'Oddball'. Up the off-width and slabby arete. Step left and climb the orange corner and wall above.

The short thin crack on a boulder 30 metres below 'My Generation'. Up the awkward thin crack to some hard slabby moves onto a ledge. Move right and up the easy hand crack.

Start on a boulder 50 metres below 'My Generation'. Climb up the dirty crack and slab without using the dead tree.

The brushed slab with two bolts four metres left of 'Return of the Marzipan Kid'. Take wires.

One of the first climbs at Gibraltar Peak. Pitch 1. 16m. Climb blocks and cracks to the ledge. Continue up to the large ledge below the chimney. Pitch 2. 24m. Climb over boulders then up the chimney. Finish on large rock platform.

Onsite lead by Jones on first ascent was very scary as protection is almost non-existent. Curtis was so freaked that Jones would crater that he soloed up the back of the chimney and tried to act as a human running belay! I'm not surprised that it seems standard to toprope it these days

The off-width right of Ape. See p 196 of ACT Granite.

Start as for the second pitch of 'Ape'. Climb up 'Ape' for about five metres then reluctantly step left of the chimney and onto the face. Up past three bolts.

As for 'Ape Escape', but step delicately right onto the face and up. Climb the wall with four bolts, trending right onto the arete near the top.

Inspected by abseil before the bolt plague, thus seldom if ever repeated. Start 20 metres around right from 'Ape'. Climb the left-hand, flake-formed crack to the top, then traverse right for 10 metres to the blunt nose of the arete. Continue up and right (crux) to a ledge.

The obvious leftwards diagonal with a 'cave' at two thirds height.

1. 17 metres - Up the line to the cave.

2. 13 metres - Through the cave and exit up the V-crack to the top.

It is amazing what lengths some people will go to, to do new routes! Find a dead branch and lean it against the face about eight metres right of 'Swinging Seat'. Swarm up the branch with a hard move at the top to reach the ledge. Mantle onto the ledge after clipping the bolt, then climb the crack and slab past one more bolt.

Ascends a series of flake chimneys. Start at a chimney in the back of a small cave to the right of 'Monkey Business'. Done in three pitches.

The low-angled crack that might pass as a climb, with a few gear placements under the leaves. Belay with care. To descend either traverse the ridgeline to rap station on The Seventh Hedgehog, or down climb.

Might not exist any more. A large column has fallen off, meaning the obvious rightwards leaning corner is now closed and blank.

The right-facing corner crack leading to a blocky finish. Chain belay.

This is on a small boulder 20 metres off the walking track. Best approach is to find the "Granites" sign on the Tidbinbilla walking track (10m uphill from the lookout platform and Mario). Walk directly uphill for 20m or so to the boulder. Climb up the left side of the flake, then up the crack to the top.

This climb is right next to the Tidbinbilla walking track, about 20 metres uphill from the lookout platform. There's a bush growing out of the crack at two thirds height. Layback up the flake then follow the crack, which widens at the top (take a large cam).

This is on the back side of the boulder beside the walking track, 150m downhill from the lookout and opposite the handrail(!?). Corner crack to crumbly jugs at bulge.

The easiest crack on the uphill side of the boulder. Bolt belay at the top.

To the right of 'Low Hydrogen'. Climb the easy crack to the ledge, then up the thin crack to the top.

Thin diagonal crack with narrow ramp using finger locks and lay-aways to ledge. Finish up weakness to triple bolt belay as for Faint Hearted or alternatively hand crack finish to Broken Window. Small cams helpful to protect crack to ledge.

The overhanging hand to fist crack, broken by a ledge, on the downhill side of the boulder. Flaky rock - take care.

The hand crack on an isolated boulder 20m right (looking uphill) of the previous climbs, with a 'knucklebuster' start.