Routes as trad in Australia

start 7m right of Cadence. Up to the carrot, then trend right to join Stigmatised.

1. 18m (17)

2. 30m (28)

3. 20m (25)

4. 20m (26)

5. 20m (25)

6. 20m (25)

Start as for Long Knife, clipping the first bolt on the arete out right, and continuing up the offwidth/chimney until at the same height as the 2nd bolt.

Traverse boldly right onto the arete to gain the 2nd bolt, then traverse boldly further right to gain the line of glue-in rings heading directly up the aesthetic arete.

Large Wires and large cams #3, #4/#5 to protect the initial crack. Consider climbing on 2-ropes and dropping the first once you gain the 2nd bolt on the arete to avoid hideous drag from the trad-section.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LE61cvEsU10

Clip the first two bolts then up the steep Trad crack (small/medium wires and cams).

Continue up the fantastic face above. Classic climbing all the way and one of the best routes here.

The desperately thin finger crack to the right. Big moves between good locks with tiny feet.

Razors.

The obvious corner R of The Reason. In fact this striking line, when viewed from a kayak below, was the inspiration for the development of the Star Factory, perhaps the true reason. From a distance it looked like a grade 21 corner! Climb easy crack for 8m to good natural belay at base of corner. Layback and stem the steep thin corner to ledge then onto DBB. Better than it looks from the ground, as the crack is perfect water polished granite, rather than the crystals it appears to be. Gear from 00-0.75 BD + a few bigger pieces for the belay.

Continue up the immaculate and crazy flared finger crack above and slightly left of Animal Instinct's hand crack. Radness

Climb Crayfish Crack to reach first bolt. Crank into line, follow bolts rightwards via. some very creative movement to finish at Beamans anchors.

The exiting moves now succumb to an extreme reach as some holds have disappeared since the first ascent.

Start as for Barad Dur. Once on the ledge step left so that you are below and 1m left of Barad Dur's crackline and climb directly up, staying within a metre of the crack. If you're on route the first bolt of Pizazz can be clipped prior to heading up but then you are relying on side runners in Barad Dur.

The thin suspect crack 1m left of Gone in Sixty Seconds straight up to join into the crux of Portrait. Take up to size 1 Camalot and 7 draws. Have a solid belayer you trust from crack to first bolt is commiting.

On the East face down and right of the two rings at the Phaedra start. This is also where the slightly lighter rock subtly meets the darker rock. The line also leads up to left edge of bushy ledge about halfway up the face (a good landmark). Scramble up ledges to get to a belay spot below this weakness.

1. 50m (21) Originally climbed as two 25m pitches, but for full value one long pitch is the go. Traverse right past large blocks to short flared corner. Up this and the obvious line of weakness above. Carefully follow path of least resistance and more gearistence. A tad runout in spots and two ropes required to reduce drag this pitch requires a crafty and confident leader. Belay at left edge of top of bushy ledge. Also the scene of a 50m fall by John Hattink running it out to the top ledge only to have two foot holds blow!

2. 40m (28) A stunning pitch! Head up the obvious corner past a few old pegs and the small rooflet. Then up subtle cracked line toward the looming headwall. This pitch provides good though not excessive options for protection and progressively gets harder and steeper. A very aesthetic line splits the top golden headwall in the steepest and cleanest position on the face. The position in the middle of the face with plenty of exposure, a steady breeze, very tenuous moves and spaced gear make it a very memorable lead. There are also three BR's on this pitch leading up to the headwall (hangers required). The free ascent was led placing the gear ground up and it is graded for a lead in this style. Belay at the obvious stance with a peg and #0, #0.5 #1 cams needed.

3. 25m (20) Head a little right and up large corner past bushes to the top of huge pedestal. Some softer rock and awkward sections make it a slow but straight-forward lead. Belay at huge blocks about 10m back from the top cliff edge.

This imposing line is on the wish list for many budding Frog-climbing gods! The stunning shallow corner swallows up RPs and micro cams. The upper section has two extremely thin and technical cruxes. Rap off the bolts.

Originally named "Dobrilla" by ML after a friend, a typo in the guide resulted in Debrilla.

An awesome climb featuring strenuous and unique movement to gain the top. Mixed wires and bolt protection lead the way, with a desperate arete slapping technique similar to bear hugging fridges required to gain the jug. Finish at DBB rap anchor at the top of arete.

A varied steep adventure on classic Tibro features.

1. 20m Climb the initial 8 to 10 meters of Out of the Blue... but stop before it traverses right. Instead go left for a few meters and clip a FH (long sling). Climb out roof past 3 more FHs to lip, from lip follow FHs up steep wall to the right eventually landing on a large scoopy ledge. DBB.

2. (Project) Heading out left and up. Bolting unfinished.

https://loganclimbsrocks.blogspot.com/2016/06/the-waiting-game.html

Amazing finger crack dividing the Disbelief Cave in two. Tricky easier start to shallow hueco below clean splitter (handy Z4#0.1 and bomber C4#4). From there, the angle is about 45-60deg and most of your body weight will be held up by 3 consecutive solid finger locks in some of the most outrageous moves with footwork at head height. Progress on good but shallow huecos to juggy section. Return to ceiling crack with several finger locks up to a fix wire at the end of the finger crack. Always dry and drizzle free. https://youtu.be/Wsu631XwrWU?si=GrCxwJvDCp9SW7Dq

Mind blowing line along the lip of a huge cave going from the bottom right to the top left. 15m of increasingly steep hand to wide hand/fist crack. Then 25m ceiling with a variety of fist/offwidth/jugs/chimney, ends where the ceiling crack meets the other side of the cave. No topout, backclean. If you stop at 15m just before the crack opens up and steepens to 80deg overhanging you can call it Disbelief (24)

Very well protected all the way. Steep section C4 1x#0.75, 1x#1, 2x#2, 3x#3 Ceiling section 8x#4, 2x#5, 1x#6

The whole crack is protected from rain and sun but will start seeping after several days of proper downpour.

An outstanding, naturally protected line up the obvious weakness through right side of the cave. The first half was originally climbed by Greg Child (and co) at grade 23 to the small stance just before the angle begins to steepen dramatically. From this point things get pumpy and you will need to draw on your bouldering nous. After the business is over be prepared for a longer-than-expected head wall above.

Starts behind pillar up at the back left. Climb Sloth Roof but keep going past the anchor for another 10 meters of mind blowing journey through a ceiling with tufa looking ironstone features. Ends a the opposite wall when your feet land onto a ledge after just another incredible 180 deg feet first cut loose.

The most obvious line through an enormous arrow head shaped stain. Fantastic steep crack, fingers, hands, chicken wings, funky dropknees, karate kicks, few pockets and few good crimps and jugs. Stops where the rock quality deteriorates after obvious bulge in ceiling. Lower off.

8m consistent overhang in 17m of height. Very well protected finger crack topping out the cliff. Very clean. Only one jug after the low first crux, then pumpfest on fingerlocks, then a last crux pinching the dyke to pumpy easier few metres. Top out past DRB anchor. Shady in summer, sunny in winter.

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Outrageous climbing on a 36º angle!! Bomber gear that is easy to place, with a few sections of committing climbing. Be aware of the big ledge !!! DBB.

A mega line linking improbable features up much steepness, and a contender for one of the best at the grade in the Blueys. Partially equipped by Emil, and finished years later by Paul.

Climb The Thin Line of Reprieve on gear (#6/Wires, 0.3, 2, & 3) to first rooflet and hard to clip bolt. Then bust out a rising traverse left with wild, gymnastic moves, before continuing more directly up steep prow to no hands rest. From the rest, dyno for all you're worth, then power through sustained steep climbing for 20m to the belay.

Classic test piece. Giles never really believed he could climb so hard. Start about 50m to the right after the waterfall. Still has some fragile rock; best to stick clip 1st bolt. Can be done only on the bolts, but a few cams are prudent (#1, 0.5/0.3, 3), as are rollers and extenders. 60m rope minimum.

The steep crack, hard though well protected. A Blue Mountains gem. Take double cams from 0.4 Camalot (yellow Alien) to 3 Camalot as well as single set of nuts. Double ring lower-off

20m right of FA at brown slime. Blast straight up the wall (BRs and small to mid size cams) to belay as for B P2. Rap off, or finish up B.

Start up Mummy's Old Carrots, clip the anchor and climb past the fixed nut into the crack below the roof. Follow this all the way until it fizzles out past multiple blobs of old coach screw. Back jump (consider re-aiding if too tired) to clean. Whispers amongst the local trees suggest that back in the day this was in the realm of 28/29 but someone local and wise may have some more solid information on this (as well as the real name and FA).

climb blankness R of Tilt. Clip Ubolt on ledge before lurching out into space. Rebolted 2018.

Middle crack - turn the lip then to top, mantle to finish.

The outrageous roof crack so steep you climb downwards.

Start: Traverse in from the left or climb 'Foreplay' then reset anchor at the back of the roof.

Through offwidth crack which slowly tapers all the way down to nothing before opening up again and then up the headwall.

Steep and powerful. Start on the boulders R of Orpheus and follow the 3 FHs up and L wards to the slopey horizontal. Undercling L to the flake and finish up Chuck Solids. Rebolted July 2022.

1. 24m 23

2. 52m 28

3. 25m 15

4. 40m 28

5. 30m 27

6. 35m 28

7. 40m 27

8. 40m 24

Wow.

1. 25m (23) As for Ozymandias.

2. 52m (28) As for Ozymandias.

3. 30m (25) As for Ozymandias. You are now on Big Grassy.

4. 35m (24) As for Ozymandias.

5. 30m (22) As for Ozymandias.

6. 40m (28) The roof and orange corner pitch. Follows bolts R to rejoin the line of Direct below the first big roof. Swing out through the roof and up gorgeous orange corner, then move R below Gledhill bivvy to belay on arete (as for Lord Gumtree).

7. 35m (22) Follow crack L and behind the Pontooth, then up more cracks (passing aid belay) to DBB at base of chimney.

8. 15m (10) Up the chimney to ledge with plaque. Can be linked with the next (or previous) pitch.

9. 20m (24) The offwidth corner. Take some big cams and go for it. Belay off a tourist (or use the handrail if there are no tourists about).

If you start at Big Grassy, pitches 4-9 make a great outing at 24 (and after the first 5m it's 22). You can abseil to Big Grassy direct with a single 150m rope (or via multiple abseils with 2 50m ropes if you know what you're doing).

Start beneath the obvious clean shallow corner blasting up the highest part wall.

1. 25m (23) Bouldery moves past 2 bolts, then L up slabby ramp to crack. Up to flake/ledge (DBB).

2. 52m (28) The amazing thin corner, which gets a bit funky in places. Climb straight past the aid belay at 30m and finish on a ledge off to the R just after 50m (DBB).

3. 30m (25) Up the thin corner (you might need to dig out dirt from some holds), then hand traverse L to ledge. Up crack to Big Grassy (FHs).

4. 35m (24) Thin gear and moves up the corner above Big Grassy (technically a couple grades easier on top rope, but the gear fills up the holds and running it out above a ledge fall is not much of an option). The pitch then gets a bit easier, up the grassy face crack slightly R of the corner, then over yellow rooflet and up THE corner a little way to an uncomfortable hanging belay (DFH). It's a major shame that these bolts weren't placed lower at a natural stance; this corner would be even more of a mega pitch otherwise.

5. 30m (22) Probably the best grade 22 pitch at Buffalo, despite the artificial hanging stance where it starts. The searing L-trending corner is quality all the way. Quite sustained. Just before the top of the corner follow the traverse line 5m L to a trad belay on the arete.

6. 35m (22) Interesting cracks through the bulges around to the L. Sustained, wide at times, and grungy; but good value. Triple FH belay.

7. 15m (19) Traverse L along vigorous crack to ledge.

8. 20m (14) A tricky start, then head up the labyrinth of chimneys.

9. 25m (10) Up the chimneys and big blocks to freedom, salvation and glory.

An exceptional free route that follows a logical line up several different aid lines. This route crosses some amazing terrain from wicked slabs to gymnastic steep slapping and some typical granite corner climbing. All pitches have a mix of bolts and natural gear with the occasional piton or aid mank here and there. Take a standard rack up to 3 Camalot and some small wires.

1. 22, 30m. Start as for Knockin’ on Heavens Door at small right facing corner 30 meters below the second abseil down ‘Comet ramp’. Beautiful laybacking for 8 meters then follow feature rightward under yellow roof. Belay at 4BB. (small-mid wires, small to large cams).

2. 28, 30m. Powerful dynamic climbing past 3 fixed hangers out to and up hanging arête, then step right into next crack system at height of roof, follow this for about 10m until a finger crack leads left to belay stance 1BB and #3 Camalot. (small – mid cams).

3. 23, 25m. Step left into twin seams following a few mashies, continue up for about 6 meters until it becomes possible to reach left to good holds leading directly leftward 5 meters to big left facing flakes. Continue up flakes to several fixed hangers and thinner moves. Belay at stance to the right with small – mid cams. (mid – large cams and some fixed bits and bobs).

4. 28, 30m. Follow easy crack for about 5 meters then step left into seam with fixed RP and small wire placement, continue straight up to two consecutive left leading flakes (fixed hanger). Delicate moves left into crack, up a few meters then left again to fixed hanger. Left again to crack then up to a 2BB at small stance. (small wires and small cams)

5. 27, 40m. Head right and up interesting weakness’s past aid belay and fixed hanger then continue up and slightly left over small overlap with powerful, thin climbing past two more fixed hangers. Finally, step right into crack and chunky features that lead to large ledge system on Ozymandias original to belay with two #2 Camalots. (Small – mid cams).

6. 28, 30m. ‘Piton Roof ‘ Insecure climbing straight up small yellow right facing corner to roof past small wires and cams. Two novel pitons protect thin moves rightward under roof to powerful crack and layback over the lip. Continue 7m to 4BB. (micro wires and small - mid cams)

7. 22, 30m. As for Rats in Paradise. Follow crack as it transition to offwidth then back to flake. Reach left as flake ends to belay on small ledge at 2BB. (mid – large cams)

8. 20, 40m. Elegant offwidthing up and left past 2 fixed hangers then straight up more offwidth to topout at Wilkinsons Lookout.

Start: Start by rapping in 65m to the top of p3 of Il Duce.

1. 45m (28)

2. 25m (19)

The overhanging wall

THE line of the cave. Power Endurance.

Steep hanging corner in prow on flawless red stone. Drop the clutch! 3 bolts then trad.

Straightens out SC. Starts up SC, finishes up headwall of KP project.

Immaculately desperate corner crack with a powerful start. Begins from large shelf down low (climbers right). Up bouldery start and technical layback past bolt (using the slab on the left takes away a grade) continue up thin crack with technical feet and increasinly fleeting hands to the top. Plenty of bomber gear on solid rock. would strongly advise stick clipping the bolt.

THE line through the first major cave (which is not the camping cave). Funky, awesome, full body workout. Be wary of the old carrots. After the start, there is plenty of good gear. Rap station above lip.

This searing cracked arete is the best line at Asses Ear. Unfortunately hard trad routes are remarkably unfashionable and this has had minimal if any repeats. Start as for Triptych but instead of bailing off right at 15m keep climbing the crack direct. The crack fades and difficulty escalates at the top.

The well publicised left side of the arch is probably the toughest route in Summerday.

Start: Start beneath the L side of the arch.

A very tough face.

Start: Start about 15m L of 'Milupa', 10m R of 'Innocent Fool'.`

The popular first pitch is a beautiful scoop of rock with a tenuous traverse and remarkably sustained climbing for the length of the scoop. The business is a little short to rank up there with Taipan's very best, but it's still awesome. Pitch 2 is rarely done but is an absolute blast. Start at the DRB atop Kaa p1, accessed as described above. (There is an old direct start with a couple of bolts (described on the Spurt Wall page), but nobody bothers with it).

1. 20m (28) This pitch is almost a sport route as it contains a few fixed wires to supplement the bolts, but most people also put in a few medium cams. It's a very popular pitch due to its squishy grade, and is many climbers' first 28. Step right past RB and up reachy wall past wires to big break. Swing over rooflet (wire) then traverse R across scoop. Pump up the subtle R arete of the scoop (2 RBs + wire) then a tricky conclusion up L to break. Clip-and-go lower-off (16m to ledge, 30m to ground).

2. 20m (26) Traverse 5m L from the lower off then up the red scoop (bolt, med cams) into cave above (optional 2no of carrot bolt plates on spacious ledge: pitch 1 originally went to here). Out right side of cave to top and lower off (80m rope recommended). Rebolted 2017. This pitch is most easily approached via Mr V.

Suffocatingly powerful. Usually led as one giant pitch. Start at large expanding left-facing flake 8m right of World Party.

1. 18m (21) Not a great pitch. Expanding flake (FH), then traverse left across break (FH) and up slab to chain belay (15m rap). A few medium-large cams are useful.

2. 30m (28) Straight up (2 FHs) to stance on the left, then rightwards out bulge with sustained endurance climbing up to big roof. Over 2 roofs into water runnel above (2 FHs), then head off left (but not into World Party) and up to anchors. 60m rope is enough to lower off to 1st belay, if belayer is on the 1st belay.

A superbly positioned bouldery little pitch. Makes a logical 3rd pitch for The Great Affair now that that has been freed. Start at the second belay of The Seventh Pillar. Blast up the surprisingly overhung headwall, trending a little R, past 2RBs and a medium cam. Lower off anchor. Rebolted 2018.

Same desperate start as for The 'Bolshevik' connection but at second FH go straight up past a third FH to thin crack.

Desperate start past bolt with insitu krab. After 2nd FH move left past another to finish as for Is Your Washroom Breeding Bolsheviks? The bolts are looking a bit cruddy.

One very, very hard move.. hence the name.

Originally graded 30, it has settled as a solid grade 28 and offers the longest piece of continuous steep climbing at Arapiles.

Start as for High Dive (although the FA started by traversing in from Belly Flop).

At the major horizontal break prior to its crux head left and launch up past cam slots to a piton, don't trust this (back it up !), but continue anyway through to "Power, Corruption and Lies" and another, even more horrible piton. Ignore this and instead, clip the 2 bolts and continue straight up to finish as for Cellular Destruction.

(Don't escape off R to the arete after the letterbox slot lest you be ridiculed by the climbing community)

AKA Straight Outta Wackford.

As for Wackford Squeers Direct, then arbitrarily follow the difficult C-shaped sickle to the L in the upper section (rather than the obvious line of least resistance).

Surely one of the best route names in the country.

Start 3m R of 'The Fortress'. A slopey traverse R is protected by a bolt (stick clip). Up past two more bolts before heading L to the crack. Up more easily with trad gear and one more bolt to anchors.

One of the most significant additions to this wall in 25 years. Originally equipped back in the dark ages. Very hard wall climbing protected by a mix of trad, then bolts - but still very exciting. Starts as for 'High Mum' then when level with the large flakeline (below the notch), drop down to the left and gain 'Tjuringa Wall' proper via a heinious crux sequence past a bolt. Trend up and leftwards to the undercut horizontal and finish as for 'My Soul to Keep'.

It's hard to say which is less repeated - 'Tjuringa', 'Akakage', or this. Once you see the line, you'll know why. A massive traversing affair that starts as for 'Common Knowledge' 2nd pitch, but then keeps heading left (under Akakage) to a (hard) crux lip encounter (very old bolt) and an outrageous headwall finish.

Start: Start at the first belay of 'Common Knowledge'.

Stick-clip bolt, climb tricky start and straight up past several more FHs. Start about 12 metres right of Yesterday

Excellent sustained face that adds a hard start to 'Yesterday Direct'.

Start just right of Yesterday and climb past a fixed hanger to join 'Yesterday Direct', which continues up via two ringbolts to join 'Yesterday'.

Desperate.

Start as for "Spellbinder".

Go up Spellbinder for 8 metres to ledge. Move right, up short, left-facing corner and over bulge to bolt (#4RP placement en-route). Move right again then up to easier climbing. rap as for Spellbinder

Climb 'Shivers' until the 'Judgement Day' traverse line, then head straight up through the roof (bolt) and follow the seam, joining Shivers' 2nd pitch near the top.

Start: Start as for 'Shivers'.

Climb directly into Escape without bridging.

An amazing line through some steep bulges. It will work your shoulders and test your footwork as you try to unlock its hidden secrets.

Start on the R side of the awe inspiring blank bulging orange face. Up crack before stepping left into the difficulties. Finishes out right up easier ground to DRB.

Notable for an early send by Christine Gambert (FR) in 1986, when it was 29, likely the first female ascent at either grade in AU. Was also the first route in AU given grade 29, originally done by stepping L higher than is now the norm, but has slipped to 28.

Really fun arete slapping. Please do not climb this route during nesting season (August to December). Start beneath the hanging nose.

‘The archetypical wall of impossible-looking rounds’ – Louise Shepherd guide. Very sustained. Up arête 1m right of PV to prominent undercling, then reach to sloper. Crux moving past this to a small horizontal slot (bombproof double RPs), then onwards up slope-riddled slab. Traverse right to First Blood anchor.

Straightens out the top section of the original by staying L of the last bolt, making it much better.

Start just R of Aardvark original start. The black groove to the ledge, then the short steep thin crack above.

Start just R of M. Up the thin crack to PR, with difficulty to good flake, then another hard move up L. Move R to easier climbing.

Previously a long standing open project that was speculated for years prior to its first ascent. Literally a 5m (hard) boulder problem.

Start: Start between KK and AF.

Follow the overhung seam up the middle of the wall with a piton, from the diagonal follow up final crack then finish as for 'Astral Plane'.

Start: On middle of right hand wall looking in.

sling anchor is death

Originally 26 in the best of Law sandbagging tradition. Quite good, and not particularly slimy. Reachy though, looks way harder below about 6' reach.

Start R of 'Failing New Romantic'. 2 bolts up the seam, step L, then finish past a couple of fixed wires.

Continue up the steep arête of Exocet until it reaches the roof. Instead of traversing right, place some bomber gear and blast straight up just right of the arête. After some tricky moves, the difficulty eases and is protected by good RPs and wires. Move left and up the arête.

Headpointing comes to the mountains. First ascent was done using toprope rehearsal in order to clean and find the line. A ground-up ascent is possible just committing.

Start on arete at base off steep gully and at the beginning of the left leading diagonal break.

Ben says it is hyperclassic. One look will make you think otherwise. The worst route in the area? The rock in the top half is terrible. Start about 60m right of the 'Junket Pumper' terrace. Walk along the path - not through the bush.

This alternative second pitch to Seventh Banana is rather runout at times, but it's also an incredible sustained line. Start at the first anchor of Seventh Banana. Up Seventh Banana pitch 2 for a few moves then move L (crux past the first bolt), and blast up the somewhat sparsely bolted grey streak to the top. Between the last 2 RBs it rejoins Seventh Banana for a few metres, then heads left again. 6 RB's & DRB anchor. There's some optional cam placements but they don't reduce the runouts much. Rebolted 2017.

Excellent climbing with two insecure crux sections. Starts for Simply the Best and Finish up Hubris.

Gear required for upper section is a selection of cams from #.3 to #2.

Thin and powerful. 6 rings and #3 Friend. Lower off last bolt.

Not including unclimbed projects, this is the hardest climb in Nerriga.

Open open open! Someone come a tick this classic crack! Bring your A game. It's propa hard.

The double bolts at the bottom of the line should be chopped as the line goes on gear the whole way.

Stick clip high first bolt. A few thugy moves brings you to a sloppey ledge. Mantel then head left & up on good gear.

10 M left of BOOB is a broken slanting wide crack that leads to a short overhang. Turn this with difficulty to a vague rest on R and then climb the crystally seam that takes stonker gear. Step left at the top and grab the jug rail at the top of the cliff (crux). The big cracks take plenty of gear up to 4 and 5 camalots but surprisingly require no OW technique. The higher seam takes small cams and medium to small wires. DBB.

Access is via the Main Face rappels. Alternatively you can rap the route, but you’ll need to bring plenty of spare biners, as the belays are all double FH.

Note that you can’t French free a lot of the hard pitches, and the escape from the base is not pleasant.

1. 50m (27) 'The Drowning Pitch'

2. 20m (21)

3. 45m (24) 'Crazy Sex Pitch'

4. 45m (26) 'Balls in a Juicer Pitch'

5. 35m (23)

6. 15m (24)

7. 50m (25) 'The Golden Corner'

8. 30m (20)

9. 20m (20)

Shares start with Symptom of the universe then moves right at 5m follows the thin seam

The thin crack with face holds left of the overhanging offwidth. Nice moves on good holds (about 22) lead to a ridiculously thin boulder problem finish and DBB.

The best climb on the crag, up the challenging seam, With good but fiddly gear, don’t be tempted to head out to the bolts on the face to the left!

10 meters R of the fixed walking rope. Up the amazing crack to a rest, then up the hanging groove. Wires and friends up to #3.