Routes in South Australia

Climbs the semi bolted line to the left of the 2nd pitch of hangover layback. Bouldery start past a few bolts and finish at chains left of Hangover Layback's second belay. Originally equipped by Dave Bowen.

A Moonarie mega classic, the 3 pitches are all exciting and all very different. Start in corner at left end of overhang at right side of large mossy slab.

1. Haul past the overhang and then follow the thin crack to the major ledge. Traverse left to belay below the flake.

2. Swing up the flake to the spacious ledge (rap chains on your left - awkward position, 50m to ground.)

3. Up crack, then take a deep breath and swing right along the sharp ledge. Heave ho and then follow left trending line to the top.

The rap chains at the top are awkward to access from above (consider roping up.) From here it is a 30m abseil to the large ledge, then 50m to the ground (second abseil is in an awkward position.)

Climb the rib of Attunga to the tree, then follow the obvious line up the middle of the wall. At 35m the crack trends left to chains. Take either double ropes or at least a 70m single for the abseil.

This mega crack was done on the very first climbing trip to Moonarie! Some big cams will be handy. Would be worth an extra star if it was further from Yanama. Scramble up to the ledge to start below the Yanama corner.

1. The wide crack on the right. Lose a grade for every time you touch Yanama. Belay in the cramped cave.

2. The crack above in a glorious position. At top, rap chains 5m to your right. 50m to ground.

The bolted seam R of Melodrama and L of Be There or Be Square, to chains.

The guide book for this climb suggest 'for small people only'. by small it means only suitable for anorexic midgets. My partener (who is small) tried leading it and could not get past the squeeze chimney on 2nd pitch. Unless you are built like a 8yo gymnast I suggest you give it a miss

You could make this route more sustained by stepping left at the big horizontal to finish up Metal Storm.

If you're not up to doing the crux first pitch of Grope Session, you could use Metal Storm as a grade 17 approach to the good looking grade 19 second pitch of Grope Session.

An exposed outing in a spectacular position. Well protected. Start at the very left end of the wall beneath DOA.

1. Step left out to the arete and climb this until the large ledge. Stay on the Great Wall side of the arete for maximum value.

2. The best finish is to continue up the arete on "Buckley's" at grade 17. Alternatively you can nip off leftwards on "Sorcerer's Apprentice" (12).

A great finish to Outside Chance.

From the cave, move slighty R, stretch up to the 2nd horizontal and then move left to the arete proper. At the ledge, clamber into the scoop from its bottom R and exit at its top left.

Flake between LA and RH

Hard not to step left at first bolt. Also hard to clip 2nd bolt.

Has its own anchor now, and is therefore an independent line, not going into robbing hood.

Bring a double set of RP's

Next obvious chimney to the right of the Great Wall, with a tree a few metres up.