Grade | Route | Gear style | Popularity | ||
---|---|---|---|---|---|
Flinders Ranges Rawnsley Bluff Moonlight Buttress | |||||
19 | Lunar Tick
Begin 8m L of LO and 4m R of GCTMT. A bulgy start leads to a short R facing corner and a rest on a ledge. FA: Colin Reece & Paul Badenoch, 1999 | 15m | |||
21 | ★★★ Lift Off
At R end of crag. Up to roof at 5m, move L with difficulty, weave up interesting wall. FA: Tim Macartney-Snape, Michael Hillan, Luke Adams & Paul Badenoch, 2008 | 15m | |||
13 | Crack In The Portal
The boulder 15m R of the R end of Moonlight Buttress. FA: Michael Hillan & Luke Adams, 2009 | 7m | |||
Flinders Ranges Rawnsley Bluff The Dark Side South East Upper Tier Giant's Foot Buttress | |||||
18 | ★★ The Cascades of Guinness
Climbs the crack in the middle of the wall. Up the blocky cracks to a ledge at 5m. Launch up the thin crack and left to a large ledge at 15m. Traverse right along the ledge for 2m to the continuation of the crack, and onto a large ledge below a large overhanging jammed block. Straight up over the block to glory. Good pro. There is an alternative route from the second ledge - left, and up a corner. This is easier, but less direct, and doesn't affect the route grade. FFA: Garth Wimbush & Mike Garrett, 2014 | 25m | |||
18 | Saw
Mount the easy bulge then climb the first face using horizontals and triangular pockets to gain a ledge. Climb the second face and then a third face passing through the middle of the two dominant triangular projections. FFA: Michael Hillan Mike Garrett, 3 Apr 2015 | 25m, 1 | |||
19 | ★★ Fallen Sentinel
Follow the obvious line 2/3 the way up before moving left around a mostly blank face before heading back right to the crack with the boulder in the top. (Conquering the face has the potential to be a great project!) Set: Mike Garrett, 2014 FFA: Mike Garrett & Garth Wimbush, 2014 | 25m | |||
13 | Thrash Compactor
Pikers variant of Wind From Above. Follow the corner to the squeezy cave at the top and climb out before you are compacted or eaten by the dianoga. Set: Mike Garrett, 2014 FFA: Mike Garrett & Garth Wimbush, 2014 | 18m | |||
16 | ★ Wind From Above
Scrappy climbing leads to engaging jamming sequence. Finish at the final tunnel. FFA: Jack Mattinson & Garth Wimbush, 2013 | 18m | |||
Flinders Ranges Rawnsley Bluff The Dark Side South East Upper Tier Millenium Buttress | |||||
17 | Millenium Pigeon
Follow the discontinuous crack in the middle of the face to the top. FFA: Garth Wimbush & Lyron Winderbaum, 3 Apr 2015 | 25m | |||
Flinders Ranges Rawnsley Bluff The Dark Side South East Upper Tier Stomtrooper Sector | |||||
21 | ★★ Calmer Suture
You need a settled approach to stitch this up. Being good in bed may help. Take the obvious crack line to a hole, then branch right up the face over the small overlap, up the shallow corner and straight over the overhang at the top. Continue to the top of the buttress. FA: Garth Wimbush(TR) & Adam Clay (TR), 2013 FFA: Garth Wimbush & Jack Mattinson, 2013 | 20m | |||
13 | Nerfherder
Climb the large corner to the right of 'Calmer Suture' all the way to the top. FFA: Adam Clay, 2013 | 20m | |||
22 | ★★ Cold War Arms Race
Follows the obvious left trending crack on the face 10m right of Calmer Suture. Rise up and assume a difficult stance. Once gained, turn hard left and persist despite increasing difficulty. When you’re as left as possible, drive head-on into the inevitable struggle. Enjoy a period of relative calm before the final difficulty creates some internal battles. | 25m | |||
15 | Short For A Stormtrooper
Head up the easy corner and steer up the left edge of the top bulge for a slightly harder finish. Short but sweet. FFA: Mike Garrett & Michael Hillan, 3 Apr 2015 | 18m | |||
Flinders Ranges Rawnsley Bluff The Dark Side South East Upper Tier Jabba Sector | |||||
15 | ★ Te Deum
Not TeDiuM, actually quite nice. Climb the blocks to the hand crack, then climb the crack to the top. FFA: Garth Wimbush & Jack Mattinson, 2013 | 18m | |||
19 | ★★ Garth Vader
There is still good in him yet. Start in the obvious corner as per Learning to Fly, break left at the roof and traverse under the lovely jambs. Pull on to the wall above and savour the glorious face climbing with fantastic gear. FFA: Tim Smith & Adam Clay, 2013 | 20m | |||
25 | ★★ Learning to Fly
Start in the obvious corner below the stepped roof, break right and launch through the stepped rooves on the right with long moves up to the ‘morgue’, harder moves lead to easier ground and the final thin corner. FFA: Tim Smith & Adam Clay, 2013 | 20m | |||
20 | ★★ Do Or Do Not, There Is No Try
FFA: Adam Clay & Tim Smith, 2013 | 20m | |||
12 | Boga
Corner climbing. Right of do or do not. FFA: Jack Mattinson & Tim Smith, 2013 | 18m | |||
20 | ★★ Got Any Blacker
Obvious line through the middle of the wall R of Boga. Wider jambing initially leads to lovely hands, arrange your gear before the crack peters out below the sloping narrow ledge, slight traverse left then up the glorious finger crack. FFA: Tim Smith & Jack Mattinson, 2013 | 16m | |||
23 | ★★ Jabba
Start at Jabba’s feet and ooze through the rolls, reach out to the white fingers on the right of the roof then follow the arête and cracks above. FFA: Tim Smith & Adam Clay, 2013 | 20m | |||
22 | ★★★ The Sith
If you do one route here make it this one! Immortal. Through the middle of the overhanging face with a bit of everything. Sting in the tail at the final seam. FFA: Jack Mattinson & Tim Smith, 2013 | 18m | |||
18 | ★★ Return of the Jedi
Start as for the Sith. At half height resist the temptation of the dark side (the direct finish), use the force to gain the right trending crack. FFA: Jack Mattinson & Chris St Jack, 2013 | 18m | |||
20 | Monkey Face
Start at the lowest point just right of the pine against the face. The rounded arete transitions to acute and then to obtuse. Stay off the faces. FFA: Michael Hillan Michael Garrett, 4 Apr 2015 | 33m | |||
16 | Dark Ambition
You had to be quick to get the first ascent on the dark side. Start at the obvious crack below the large block on a ledge, over and around this through the crack above. A fillip awaits where you least expect it. FFA: Tim Smith & Jack Mattinson, 2013 | 25m | |||
Flinders Ranges Rawnsley Bluff The Dark Side South East Upper Tier PatO Sector | |||||
21 | ★ Midnight Buffet
Corner around arete and into corner above, variation up corner with frightening looking detached plates and no useful gear. FFA: Tim Smith, Garth Wimbush & Adam Clay, May 2017 | 18m | |||
22 | ★★★ Exploding Galaxies
Stellar climbing with an audacious move up the arete to the hanging corner above. Start as per Talon in the chimney then break left to the obvious white jug. Place your gear then head out to the arete. Hidden key placement left of the arete (#3 stopper) in small crack. Immortal. FFA: Tim Smith, Garth Wimbush & Adam Clay, May 2017 | 20m | |||
21 | ★★ Talon
Fused crack and R facing shallow corner through blocks and large flake above, start up chimney in corner then step left into line. FFA: Garth Wimbush, Adam Clay & Tim Smith, May 2017 | 15m | |||
15 | Bowling Alley
Obvious chimney with chock stones. The first is a cracker! FFA: Garth Wimbush, May 2017 | 15m | |||
17 | ★★★ PatO, your heart
Obvious crack with Y at top, step into R fork then back left through breaks to top. FFA: Tim Smith, Garth Wimbush & Adam Clay, May 2017 | 15m | |||
10 | ★ Solo And The Wookie
Blocky corner with twin parallel cracks and ledge at half way, finger crack above (soloed and then it got hairy) FA: Adam Clay, May 2017 | 15m | |||
Flinders Ranges Rawnsley Bluff The Dark Side South East Upper Tier The Corners | |||||
14 | ★★ Scrubs Up Well
Up bulging hand crack with plentiful gear. The crack line L of Heart of Stone. FA: Chris St Jack & Jack Mattinson, 2013 | 15m | |||
23 | ★★ Heart of Stone
Up the hand crack, over the heart shaped block, take a breath on the ledge, then launch up the thin seam to the top. FA: Garth Wimbush & Jack Mattinson, 2013 | 18m | |||
20 | ★★ That's no Moon
Left around the corner from 'Hyperdrive'. Take the crack just left of the roof to the second horizontal above the roof, then traverse 4m right over the roof to a metre before the arete. Launch straight up the face following the line of weakness, to the top. FFA: Garth Wimbush & Lyron Winderbaum, 4 Apr 2015 | 20m | |||
18 | ★★ Hyperdrive
Start as per Dos Cabras Negras for 4m then traverse left towards arete with a series of cracks left of the red section. Follow your nose gloriously to the top. FFA: Garth Wimbush & tim smith, 14 May 2017 | 20m | |||
17 | ★★ Dos Cabras Negras
Named after the audience at the top. Follow the lovely consistent line on the left of the face. FA: Garth Wimbush & Jack Mattinson FFA: Garth Wimbush & Jack Mattinson, 2013 | 18m | |||
17 | The Biggest Loser
The crack 2m right of DCN FFA: Jack Mattinson & Garth Wimbush, 2013 | 16m | |||
16 | ★★ The Sound of One Cheek Clapping
Left arete of grey slab with gear in the left wall where it is run out. Through the obvious hand crack in the middle of the slab above. FFA: Adam Clay, Garth Wimbush & Tim Smith, 14 May 2017 | 20m | |||
19 | ★★★ Stars In My Eyes
Right hand arete. Arrange 000 and 0.2 cams in slot on left and micro offset wires in horizontal on right arete, equalising both. spectacular and intricate moves to negotiate bulge them finish as per the sound on one cheek clapping. FFA: Tim Smith, Adam Clay & Garth Wimbush, 14 May 2017 | 20m | |||
17 | Tribunal
Start on the ledge, and head up the main zig-zagy crack to the left of Blood Moon. FFA: Mike Garrett & Michael Hillan, 4 Apr 2015 | 25m | |||
19 | Blood Moon
Climb the corner and pass the fist block to gain the short second corner. Pass the roof on the right to gain the ledge and then climb the face on your left through the wide scoop. FFA: Michael Hillan Mike Garrett, 4 Apr 2015 | 25m | |||
18 | ★ Judge me by my size, do you?
Climb the shallow poorly protected corner to a small roof, go left around the roof and continue up the groove to a large ledge. Climb the middle of the 4m face straight ahead. FFA: Garth Wimbush & Lyron Winderbaum FA: 4 Apr 2015 | 20m | |||
16 | ★ Interdictor
The climb follows a corner for a few metres. then branches out right onto the face and up a couple of discontinuous cracks. The climb starts just to the right of an obvious, square jutting block at half-height. FFA: Garth Wimbush, 2015 | 22m | |||
19 | ★★ Sword of Damocles
Bouldering start to distinct corner with a loose-looking rock spike. Traverse up and left onto ledge with large block. Climb corner behind on wonderful holds to roof, traverse right onto ledge and up. FFA: Garth Wimbush, Tim Smith & Adam Clay, May 2017 | 18m | |||
Flinders Ranges Rawnsley Bluff The Dark Side South East Upper Tier Star Destroyer Buttress | |||||
16 | ★★ The Timocene
The obvious corner and chimney that converges with Convergent Evolution. Delightful climbing. FA: Adam Clay, May 2017 | 25m | |||
19 | ★★ Convergent Evolution2
Up left trending cracks into corner at 6m with a spicy step across then corner/chimney and cracks in right face to top. FFA: Tim Smith & Garth Wimbush, May 2017 | 25m | |||
24 | ★★ The Precambrian Shuffle
Start below the left hand side of Star Destroyer Buttress roof, climb up and traverse right over the roof, then up following the right hand line of holds, that lead to a shallow scoop and onto the arete. Finish as for 'Tensions on the Korean Peninsular'. FA: Garth Wimbush (TR), 2013 | 25m | |||
★★ Lincoln tensions project
Start just R of Precambrian shuffle, and under the roof. Shuffle out through the roof using undercling crack and OK feet. Great gear, small cams needed. At the lip paste feet on nothing and power layback out, turn lip and change corners. Finish as for Tensions. Awesome fun but desperate. Probably 27/28. FA: Kelly Thorpe, Dec 2016 | 30m | ||||
25 | ★★★ Tensions On The North Korean Peninsula
The striking hanging corner to the left of Light Sabre. Small cams and an attentive belay essential for the start. The first moves as per Light Sabre then traverse left on breaks. An audacious move across the void (don’t look down at the rock spike) to the corner brings gear and some relief. The corner and crack through the rooflet above followed by an easy face then jamb through the curving crack in the orange headwall. FA: Tim Smith & Adam Clay, 2013 | 28m | |||
25 | ★★★ Light Sabre
A stellar line up the beautiful overhanging face through the horizontal breaks, take RPs, a double set of cams from 0.2/00 to 0.4 and triple up on 0.3. Start up the blunt lay back then wend your way through the breaks following the protection. Over the easy slab then ooze onto the face right of the finishing crack of TotKP. A route you won’t forget. FA: Jack Mattinson & Garth Wimbush, 2013 | 28m | |||
21 | ★★ Poo Hole Cuckoo
Adam dug the hole and left it to be filled by Tim. Up breaks on right hand arete of buttress left joining umami at about 8m. Trend leftward across slab and finish as for tensions on the north Korean peninsula. FA: Tim Smith, Garth Wimbush & Adam Clay, May 2017 | 30m | |||
17 | ★ Umami
A different flavour to other climbs on Starship Destroyer Buttress. Up the small corner, then follow the weakness left and up and through the roof over the large detached block. FFA: Garth Wimbush & Jack Mattinson, 2013 | 28m | |||
Flinders Ranges Rawnsley Bluff The Dark Side The Amphitheatre | |||||
17 | ★★ Eerie Eyrie
The route climbs the crack at the back of a 3m deep cleft 30m West of Lever. The feature has a tree growing out of the crack halfway up, an obvious sitting spot for birds. Follow the crack with increasing difficulty to the top, then continue up the weakness. The original route climbed up the left face to the top when the going got scrubby. FFA: Garth Wimbush & Lyron Winderbaum, 4 Apr 2015 | 20m | |||
19 | ★ Shoulder to shoulder
Up seam and corner to small roof, then up funky crack with some interesting moves. Up slab to hand crack/chimney, through to a cave and out through roof of cave. Good pro and good fun! FFA: Kelly Thorpe & Garth Wimbush, Dec 2016 | 40m | |||
Wookie Power project
Roof project 2m Left of 'Wookie Style'. Crazy moves. Needs a bolt through roof, possibly one or two more. Will be bolted mid 2017. Could finish as for 'Wookie Style' or rap off tree at half height. FA: Kelly Thorpe, Oct 2015 | 20m | ||||
21 | ★★★ Wookie Style
The overhanging crack in the prominent roof 200m past (West) of 'Tensions on the North Korea Peninsula'. Pitch 1: 21, 18m Climb 2m up to large crack through roof, place gear and graple with the crack like the Wookie beast you are. Great corner + crack climbing above to a small belay ledge on the left next to a bunch of Malley trees. Pitch 2: 14, 27m From the ledge go up and right up the corner, from here go right of the scrambly gulley and up nice seam + face to the glory jug haul at the top. FFA: Kelly Thorpe & Jack Mattinson, Oct 2015 FA: Kelly Thorpe & Garth Wimbush, Oct 2015 | 45m, 2 | |||
15 | ★★ The Lever
Start at the very obvious and spectacular half-fallen block. (It might look scary, but it is entirely solid). Follow the obvious line before scrambling off left up a gulley. Set: Mike Garrett, 2014 FFA: Mike Garrett & Garth Wimbush, 2014 | 18m | |||
14 | All Frocked Up
Up the prominent line on the wall L of Tensions on the Korean Peninsular. A involved undertaking through a wide spectrum of crack, overhangs and shrubbery. FA: Jack Mattinson & Chris St Jack, 2013 | 35m | |||
Flinders Ranges Rawnsley Bluff The Dark Side Dice Walls | |||||
13 | ★ Ewok Ramble
Climb the obvious corner immediately left of Jack's Route FFA: Garth Wimbush & Liz Milner, 28 Sep 2018 | 14m | |||
20/21 | ★★ Fully Loaded
The small seam + crack, hidden behind the large outcrop. Great moves with good pro, climbs even better than it looks. FFA: Kelly Thorpe & Garth Wimbush, Oct 2015 | 14m | |||
13 | ★ Princess Destroyer
Climb the obvious corner immediately right of Jack's Route. FFA: Garth Wimbush & Liz Milner, 28 Sep 2018 | 14m | |||
15 | Jack's Route
Follow the corner to the left of 'Ode To Dane' all the way. FFA: Jack Mattinson & Kelly Thorpe, 3 Oct 2015 | 16m | |||
17 | ★★ Ode to Dane
A lovely route. Straight up the middle of the blank-looking wall with the buttress on the left and the roof on the right. The gear is good, despite first impressions. FFA: Garth Wimbush & Kelly Thorpe, 3 Oct 2015 | 17m | |||
15 | ★ Lyron's Lead
Climb the corner over stacked blocks, then with increasing difficulty until the grade eases above. Continue following the crack/corner to the top. FFA: Garth Wimbush & Lyron Winderbaum, 4 Apr 2015 | 17m | |||
20 | ★★ Light Dagger
Starts on the face 5m L of Stray back. Great moves on horizontals and seam to begin with, small gear needed. At ledge head up slab with a hardish move, finish easy. FFA: Garth Wimbush & Kelly Thorpe, Dec 2016 | 18m | |||
18 | ★★ Stray back
Fun crack line and layback flake. Small headwall at top. Great pro and good climbing! FFA: Kelly Thorpe & Garth Wimbush, Dec 2016 | 25m | |||
14 | ★ Ewok crack
15m left of Pay homage. The overhanging hand crack finishing directly up the left of the aerete. Good pro. FA: Lewis CLarey & Mark McConnell, 26 Apr 2019 | 20m | |||
20 | ★★ Pay Homage
Bold right trending crack in the middle of the face. Start at the thin seam in the corner which leads on to the homage ledge and a crack that will make you a believer. The first ascent involved stepping off the block - going from the ground is considerably harder. FFA: Jack Mattinson & Garth Wimbush, 2013 | 20m | |||
13 | Ewoks are small wookies
10m right of Pay Homage. The right of the twin cracks with a tricky overhanging corner near the top. FA: Mark McConnell & Lewis Clarey, 26 Apr 2019 | 20m | |||
15 | ★ Ewoks nightmare
15m right of Ewoks are small wookies, start up shallow off vertical left facing corner. At 5m pull through crack in roof and continue up thin crack to the top. FA: Mark McConnell & Lewis Clarey, 26 Apr 2019 | 20m | |||
Flinders Ranges Rawnsley Bluff The Dark Side Backstage Area The Tiers | |||||
18 | Stairway to Bevan
Straight up the wall on cleaner rock following left tending stepped ledges top out near big block on top of wall. FFA: 2016 | 20m | |||
19 | E.L.S.A
Vague line up vertical cracks and breaks 2-3m left of R arete. Less than desirable gear. | 20m | |||
19 | Get Knotted
Arete right of E.L.S.A FFA: Arend & Quang Doan, 2016 | 20m | |||
16 | ★★★ Delicate Sound of Thunder
Bulbous grey wall left of corner crack, improbably good climbing and protection to top. FFA: 2016 | 18m | |||
13 | ★ Amelia
The obvious hand sized corner crack, originally 2 pitches but stopping at the tree at the top of the gully makes things easier. FA: 2016 | 18m | |||
18 | Another Brick in the Wall
Straight up the wall 2m left of escape pod. Listen out for the wobbly brick FFA: Adam Clay & Tim Smith, 2016 | 18m | |||
15 | Escape Pod
Full value novelty climb. Straight up into the obvious pod in middle of the wall and then escape and you will to the top go FFA: 2016 | 18m | |||
17 | Holocene
Climb up to the first large hollow with some difficulty. Climb through this to the second, then to the third, have a rest, then launch up the face above on small but surprisingly good holds. Good pro. FFA: Garth Wimbush & Kelly Thorpe, 10 Dec 2016 | 20m | |||
Flinders Ranges Rawnsley Bluff The Dark Side Backstage Area Yin Yang Wall | |||||
23 | Yin Yang
Up the middle of the wall. The difficulties come early on. The first pitch was ended on the large ledge halfway up the wall on the first ascent. FA: Tim Smith & Adam Clay, 2016 | 50m, 2 | |||
Flinders Ranges Rawnsley Bluff The Dark Side Backstage Area Dog Wall | |||||
15 | ★★ One Legged Dog
A couple of metres left of 'The Nose'. Take the obvious corner all the way. FFA: Garth Wimbush & Jack Mattinson, 2015 | 25m | |||
24 | ★★ The Nose
Start 3m R of K9 Stroll, up a crack, delicate moves on face to 1st ledge of K9 Stroll. Up corner and mantle ledge. From here, place good gear and blast up face on small holds to the 'nose of the dog', mantle onto ledge. From here straight up to the top. FA: Kelly Thorpe, Garth Wimbush & Jack Mattinson, Oct 2015 | 25m | |||
19 | ★★ K9 Stroll
Locate the furthest and last major face/wall along the Darkside. This is 'Dog Wall', with a large flake/crack system that forms the shape of a dog's head. An adventurous jaunt along the 'mouth and nose' of the dog. Double ropes help. Start at the crack + flake system on the L end of the wall. Up this, mantle ledge, traverse R along ledge. Up crack corner, wildly traverse out L on good holds, up and mantle ledge to stand on top of the 'dogs nose'. Traverse R to the end of the ledge, up crack and jugs to top. Super fun! FFA: Kelly Thorpe & Jack Mattinson, Oct 2015 | 25m | |||
17 | ★ Doggy Style
Start a few metres left of the right-hand side of Dog Wall, climb up to a loose-looking (but solid) block at 4m. Climb a couple of metres to the ledge, then climb up the back of the Dog, trending left to the crack near the top. On the first ascent the route climbed between the roof-corner 3/4 of the way up and the arete. Good pro. FFA: Garth Wimbush & Kelly Thorpe, 4 Oct 2015 | 25m | |||
Flinders Ranges Rawnsley Bluff The Dark Side The Last Wall | |||||
15 | ★ Extrusion
20m left of 'One Legged Dog' is a crack with a 6m chimney at the bottom. Climb into the chimney, then squirm your way to the top and into the crackline, following it to the top. FFA: Garth Wimbush & Jack Mattinson, 3 Oct 2015 | 25m | |||
16 | TBD
15m left of 'One Legged Dog' is a crack with a tree at 7m. Follow it the whole way, with a dog-leg to the right at the small overlap. FFA: Jack Mattinson & Garth Wimbush, 3 Oct 2015 | 25m | |||
Flinders Ranges Rawnsley Bluff Moralana Wall | |||||
11 | Normality Epoch
| 15m | |||
12 | JAE
| 70m | |||
22 | Pale Rider
| 20m | |||
17 | For a Price
| 23m | |||
19 | Fish Paste on the Manifold
| 22m | |||
12 | Tarkus
| 24m | |||
18 | Possum's Odyssey
| 35m | |||
12 | Justin's Dyno
| 30m | |||
Flinders Ranges Rawnsley Bluff Tull Corner | |||||
9 | Footloose
| 25m | |||
10 | Heavy Horses
| 25m | |||
Flinders Ranges Rawnsley Bluff Koperi Wall | |||||
10 | Founder Member
| 72m | |||
6 | Novice's Niche
| 80m | |||
9 | Oh! Calcutta
| 66m | |||
17 | Flying Buttress
| 24m | |||
14 AID:A0 | Apache
| 60m | |||
18 | Tumbleweed Connection
| 47m |