Ascents in Wollongong having Beta

Take some long draws for this one to minimise rope drag. This arete is a good one!

Hard for the grade, maybe not the warm-up I was hoping for, especially with that desperate crimpy start! Quite a fun sequence up high though, definitely worth doing!

Great climbing, and quite sustained. It is quite hard for the grade, will definitely have to make use of the rest after the first crux, cause it's not over yet!

It's mostly chill, enjoyable climbing, save for a few moves around the middle, which are definitely cruxy! Happy to return and try this one again.

2 laps on this today, practicing placing some trad pro in a few spots.

Ended up going with a gaston on the flake and high foot to reach (just) past the sandy pocket and pebble crimp.

Glad to see this finally open, really nice line. The holds that looked wet were actually fine!

Did the Honnold for the gram.

Lap, nice but a bit pumpy

3x falls on the crux for various reasons, forever refining the microbeta, feeling confident

Warm up

Added a move, tried a few other things. Split a fingertip.

Fell off once and got straight back on.

Route was drity after all the rains and overgrown.

Mmm big reach crip

Surprised to see it was dry today, great moves and excellently bolted maybe a little soft for the grade but i'll take it

The start of this is boggling my mind. If someone has beta please spray me.

Pretty spoogey down low, consistently good crimping with a few breaks. Seems as though I made a few sections harder than they needed to be - keen for a repeat at some point. First 2-3 draws were up, clipped the anchors but didn’t attempt the final hold above the DRB.

Foiled at the thin seam (again).

Liam's first trad lead!

Still too wet... grr

Planned to work on the bottom part of Napalm Strike but the end was wet

#4 nut, to cams purple .5, grey .4 and gold 2.

The second two pitches as a long 22. Cool route with a few rests and classic Wollongong rock quality.

Tricky start with the corner wet!

Interesting if slightly inconsistent climbing.

Brutal think section at 1/3 height culminating in a lunge to a crimp that wasn't there. On second inspection, the crimp was there just a half a hand leftwards. Great route but stiff at 24!

Quite tough at the grade and with quite an awkward fall right at the crux. Also, we chose the arete off the hanging belay which would be quite exciting for grade 22 leader right off the belay.

Day flash after trying the first half years ago. Helped by some great beta tips. Good climb.

Warm-up try was messy. Felt nice second time.

This time upwards.

Did P2 again. Fun.

First time down climbing on lead.

I found P1 heady, expecting feet and holds to snap, but none did. P2 is pretty awesome if you commit to the hand traverse out left and mantle. Position = 10/10

8mm of rain two days earlier and 130mm six days earlier equals waterfall on upper pitch (other Scarborough crags dry).

Quite wet and mossy at the base and the top. Middle section was nice. Still can’t figure out feet for the sit start… Anyone got beta?

Couldn't figure out how to establish, not sure on the start holds.

Made it onto the wall. lol

Lower holds were all wet and it was impossible to pull on

Very stretchy for short arms but i got it!

TRS scout also. One rusty carrot didn't break when I kicked it so probably sweet? Hangers look bomber. Traverse looks tenuous. The crack otherwise looks like the longest/strictest hand size crack in the Illawarra? Scant face holds outside of it. Bring crack gloves to increase hand size.

Again top out looks semi-miserable

And the cave to the left appears to be a Peregrine Falcon nest (didn't like my presence and plenty of bird poo in there).

Scouted on top rope solo, looks decent, top out looks not fun - might hang a rope to be an anchor or learn to bolt some anchors? Via ferrata the whole thing while I'm at it?

Even TRS with a microtrax felt scary coming through the top of chimney, minimal placements available. Flakey rocks on the right of chimney that look breakable are solid.