Grado | Vía | Estilo de equipamiento | Calidad | Escalador | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
Sáb 27.º Abr 2024 - Evans Crown | |||||||
Deckout Buttress | |||||||
19 | ★★ Spare the Hammer - con Griefbacon | 15m, 4 | |||||
Really fun even though it is hard to trust the rock in some places as everything sounds shallow.
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Vie 26.º Abr 2024 - Evans Crown | |||||||
Deckout Buttress | |||||||
21 | ★★★ Dr Marten's Boots - con Joey aquilina, Ryan Cooper | 25m, 6 | ★★★ Clásico | ||||
Classic proper slab climbing, all in the feet
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Mar 5.º Mar 2024 - Evans Crown | |||||||
Crown Buttress | |||||||
17 | ★★ Up the Nose of Love - con Haily | 35m, 7 | ★ Buena | ||||
To finish went straight up the groove, placed two bits in the average crack and belayed off a small tree, poxy bush and average cam. Just didn't feel like following more bolts up the arete. Was this the original sortie naturelle?
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Sáb 27.º En 2024 - Evans Crown | |||||||
Googolplex Crag | |||||||
21 | ★★ God Help the Hash House Harriers - con Aurora Pandora | 28m | ★ Buena | ||||
Dom 7.º En 2024 - Evans Crown | |||||||
Crown Buttress | |||||||
18 | ★ Jailbreak from H-Block - con Jeff Boyton | 33m, 3 | ★ Buena | ||||
Delicate start then super-highstep. Sport climbers will be stick-clipping in droves.
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Lun 1.º En 2024 - Evans Crown | |||||||
Deckout Buttress | |||||||
20 ~19 | ★★ Bloodbath - con Graham Dowden | 15m, 4 | ★ Buena | ||||
Good edge slabbing.
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19 | ★ Greenies' Delight | 15m, 5 | Medio | ||||
19 | ★ Jonestown | 15m, 3 | ★ Buena | ||||
First top rope solo.
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Lun 1.º En 2024 - Evans Crown | |||||||
Googolplex Crag | |||||||
18 Fácil | ★★★ Fuzzy Navel | 75m | ★★★ Clásico | ||||
Wasn't quite sure where the start was but picked the cleaniest crack+slab line that'd get us up to a DBB just right of a gorgeous slabby arete which I assumed was P2. Great slabbing on P2, all FHs but bring 2 plates for top.
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20 | ★★★ Six Days on the Toad - con Graham Dowden | 28m | ★★★ Clásico | ||||
Fantastic slabbing. No trad gear required. Favourite climb of the day.
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20 | ★★★ Six Days on the Toad - con Haily, Peter Melouney | 28m | ★★ Muy buena | ||||
Surprised myself to be able to follow Mr M's excellent onsight.
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Lun 1.º En 2024 - Evans Crown | |||||||
Deckout Buttress | |||||||
21 | ★★★ Dr Marten's Boots - con Haily, Peter Melouney | 25m, 6 | ★ Buena | ||||
Despite having last year clocked up just under 61,000m of vertical ascent (up stairs and bush trails, sadly not rock climbs) the mental rigours of slab climbing seemed to benefit little from aerobic or indeed physical capacity. After several strained moments staring at a pathetic indentation or crystal flake wondering if it could hold a foot or other appendage, one generally retires, shattered, with a well-worn mantra pounding through an overloaded frontal cortex: "These slabs are definitely doing my head in".
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Mié 27.º Dic 2023 - Evans Crown | |||||||
Deckout Buttress | |||||||
18 | ★ Scuds over Saudi | 15m, 4 | |||||
Mossy choosy wet slabby adventure
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18 | ★ Scuds over Saudi | 15m, 4 | ★ Buena | ||||
19 | ★★ Spare the Hammer | 15m, 4 | ★★ Muy buena | ||||
Very nice slabbing
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Sáb 14.º Oct 2023 - Evans Crown | |||||||
Crown Buttress | |||||||
15 | ★ Les Grandes Courses - con zachary vertrees, Nigel | 10m | ★ Buena | ||||
Maybe La Petite Course would be more appropriate… though it is grand with a little bit of almost every crack size in its short length… Stout start that quickly eases, good fun …
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Lun 2.º Oct 2023 - Evans Crown | |||||||
Crown Buttress | |||||||
17 | ★★ Up the Nose of Love | 35m, 7 | ★★ Muy buena | ||||
18 | ★ Jailbreak from H-Block | 33m, 3 | ★★ Muy buena | ||||
Nice slabbing. Runouts are not that bad on this one. Definitely easier than Jika Jika
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17 | ★★ Up the Nose of Love | 35m, 7 | ★★ Muy buena | ||||
lovely climbing. Cruxy moves coming over the bulge. Climbed this to access the top of the crag. Watched the sun set up there and was beautiful. This is a sport climb with some carrots and some fixed hangers. Dont know why its listed as trad
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Sáb 30.º Sep 2023 - Evans Crown | |||||||
Crown Buttress | |||||||
17 | ★★ Up the Nose of Love - con jonah ovadia | 35m, 7 | ★★ Muy buena | ||||
Sáb 2.º Sep 2023 - Evans Crown | |||||||
Deckout Buttress | |||||||
21 | ★★★ Dr Marten's Boots | 25m, 6 | ★★ Muy buena | ||||
One hell of a remind on how to climb slab. Maybe should have started on something a little more chill to remember my shoes work
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Sáb 2.º Sep 2023 - Evans Crown | |||||||
Googolplex Crag | |||||||
21 | ★★ God Help the Hash House Harriers | 28m | ★★ Muy buena | ||||
Last route for the day, more quality slabbing.
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Dom 30.º Jul 2023 - Evans Crown | |||||||
Googolplex Crag | |||||||
20 | ★★★ Six Days on the Toad - con Liv | 28m | ★★★ Megaclásica | ||||
Utterly gripping. Felt safe once I clipped the anchor.
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Dom 30.º Jul 2023 - Evans Crown | |||||||
Deckout Buttress | |||||||
19 ~18 | ★ Jonestown - con Liv | 15m, 3 | ★★ Muy buena | ||||
Much better than scuds, or did I think that because it was easier??
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18 | ★ Scuds over Saudi - con Liv | 15m, 4 | ★ Buena | ||||
A rude welcome back to tarana. A healthy runout + small footers + no holds = fear
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Sáb 3.º Jun 2023 - Evans Crown | |||||||
Crown Buttress | |||||||
16 | ★ Optem Bop | 30m, 5 | ★ Buena | ||||
Tricky highstep over bulge
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18 | ★ Jika Jika | 30m, 4 | ★ Buena | ||||
Sáb 27.º Mayo 2023 - Evans Crown | |||||||
Deckout Buttress | |||||||
17 | ★ Space Invaders | 20m, 4 | |||||
Trivial
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19 | ★ Madonnas | 15m | |||||
I was disappointed. Expected hard, spicy, lichen slab, with questionable bolts. Got trivial slabbing with more bolts than necessary.
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13 | Deft | 8m | |||||
Quite nice, less lichen on this one
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12 | Blunt Stick | 8m | |||||
Nice
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Sáb 13.º Mayo 2023 - Evans Crown | |||||||
Googolplex Crag | |||||||
22 | ★★ Laughing Boy Morris | 55m, 9 | |||||
21 | ★★ God Help the Hash House Harriers | 28m | |||||
21 | Bilbo Baggins Direct Start | 10m, 3 | |||||
20 | ★★ Rene's Ethical Neutrality | 25m, 6 | |||||
20 | ★ Field Commander Jagusch | 25m, 5 | |||||
19 | ★★ Saddam's Black Heart | 25m | |||||
20 | ★★ Mr Bubbles | 25m, 5 | |||||
Dom 7.º Mayo 2023 - Evans Crown | |||||||
Googolplex Crag | |||||||
22 | ★ This One's for Evelyn - con soph | 25m, 2 | |||||
Felt exactly as described, still not 100% if this was the route or not, done alot of cleaning on the second pitch, glad I hauled up the number 4 and 5 cam
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Dom 23.º Abr 2023 - Evans Crown | |||||||
The Northern Slabs | |||||||
12 | Headache | 20m | Medio | ||||
Well I guess this was it, exacerbated by the worn approaches, despite only a few 12 moves at the top which became steeper and more lichenous after the clean rough lower central section of 4-6.
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Sáb 8.º Abr 2023 - Evans Crown | |||||||
Crown Buttress | |||||||
18 |
★★ Barad Dur
- con
cedric
1
2
3
| 75m | ★★ Muy buena | ||||
Spent a while at the end of P1 before taking off my jacket and pulling out some sport climbing moves (but tree is in!) P2/3 we just followed a line of bolts straight up which didn’t really match the description and was a bit hardish for the grade; or maybe it was just the lichen. Last pitch is chill if you can offwidth and I wish I had led it.
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Lun 3.º Abr 2023 - Evans Crown | |||||||
Crown Buttress | |||||||
18 |
★★ Barad Dur
- con
Tom Bes
3
escalada de primero por
Tom Bes
glorious offwidth to finish omg. very spoilt to top out with just a magnificent pitch | 75m | |||||
this is a 3 pitch route - i took P2, Bah took P1 and P3.
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Dom 2.º Abr 2023 - Evans Crown | |||||||
Googolplex Crag | |||||||
19 | ★★ Saddam's Black Heart - con Tom Bes | 25m | |||||
slab climbing is so enjoyable - it all kinda feels the same but is never dull! hyper focused flow times
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Dom 26.º Feb 2023 - Evans Crown | |||||||
Deckout Buttress | |||||||
21 | ★★★ Dr Marten's Boots - con Julie Pon | 25m, 6 | |||||
pretty stoked on this one! was very enjoyable and not a death slab! very well protected! fun for the whole family! one more exclamation point!
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Sáb 7.º En 2023 - Evans Crown | |||||||
Crown Buttress | |||||||
17 | ★★ Up the Nose of Love - con Rafael Andreollo | 35m, 7 | |||||
NOT a trad route. Carrot bolts (I think around 6 or 7). Anchor is fixed hangers, so top out to finish.
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Sáb 7.º En 2023 - Evans Crown | |||||||
Deckout Buttress | |||||||
19 | ★★ Spare the Hammer - con Rafael Andreollo | 15m, 4 | |||||
Vie 6.º En 2023 - Evans Crown | |||||||
Deckout Buttress | |||||||
21 | ★★★ Dr Marten's Boots | 25m, 6 | ★★★ Clásico | ||||
Wow! So damn good!! Amazing sustained slab climbing.
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17 | ★ Space Invaders | 20m, 4 | |||||
Jue 5.º En 2023 - Evans Crown | |||||||
Deckout Buttress | |||||||
17 | ★ Kersplat - con Rafael Andreollo | 15m, 3 | |||||
Jue 5.º En 2023 - Evans Crown | |||||||
Crown Buttress | |||||||
18 | ★ Jailbreak from H-Block - con Guilherme Pizzi | 33m, 3 | ★ Buena | ||||
16 | ★ Optem Bop - con Guilherme Pizzi | 30m, 5 | ★ Buena | ||||
great warm up to get used to the wall there
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21 | ★ Bad to the Bone - con Guilherme Pizzi | 20m, 6 | ★★ Muy buena | ||||
nice sequence
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Mié 28.º Dic 2022 - Evans Crown | |||||||
Googolplex Crag | |||||||
19 | ★★ Saddam's Black Heart - con Hayden L | 25m | ★★ Muy buena | ||||
Dom 6.º Nov 2022 - Evans Crown | |||||||
Deckout Buttress | |||||||
19 | ★ Greenies' Delight | 15m, 5 | Medio | ||||
Surprised Jeff cruised what looked like a forest of lichen, and perhaps even more that I flash followed.
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19 | ★★ Bloodbath | 15m, 4 | ★ Buena | ||||
Old Slabbers Afternoon with Jeff (leading) and Gayle Boyton, and Rod Kotkis, ably observed by A. Jones of Jonestown (the route), who opined that many routes were not in fact soloed on the FA "because you would die". But who's to disprove that this was an impediment to 19 year old slab specialists? Such as he who reliably informed me he soloed The Fear at North Head back in the day?
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18 | ★ Madonnas | 15m | ★ Buena | ||||
Turns out this is what I've been doing, not other routes, according to the authoritative Old Slabbers, so there we go.
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Dom 16.º Oct 2022 - Evans Crown | |||||||
Crown Buttress | |||||||
19 | ★ Bad to the Bone | 20m, 6 | ★ Buena | ||||
Not a 21 slab - no harder than many on Deckout.
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Dom 2.º Oct 2022 - Evans Crown | |||||||
Crown Buttress | |||||||
16 14 | ★ Sitting Pretty (Psyke) - con Amanda Vipond | 20m, 5 | |||||
15 17 | ★ Blue Train (Dyke) - con Amanda Vipond | 20m, 3 | |||||
12 | ★ Nerves of Rubber - con Amanda Vipond | 30m, 2 | |||||
18 | ★ Jailbreak from H-Block - con Amanda Vipond | 33m, 3 | |||||
Lun 5.º Sep 2022 - Evans Crown | |||||||
Crown Buttress | |||||||
17 | ★★ Up the Nose of Love | 35m, 7 | ★ Buena | ||||
Mié 27.º Jul 2022 - Evans Crown | |||||||
Crown Buttress | |||||||
15 17 | ★ Blue Train (Dyke) | 20m, 3 | ★★ Muy buena | ||||
Sáb 23.º Jul 2022 - Evans Crown | |||||||
Deckout Buttress | |||||||
19 | ★ Madonnas - con Matt King, Mike Daws, Nathan | 15m | ★★ Muy buena | ||||
Tough start, then a nice cruise to the top.
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19 | ★★ Spare the Hammer - con Matt King, Mike Daws, Nathan | 15m, 4 | ★★★ Clásico | ||||
Really nice featured start, then sweet padding to the top.
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20 | ★★ Bloodbath - con Matt King, Mike Daws, Nathan | 15m, 4 | ★★★ Clásico | ||||
Sweeeet climbing. Some really nice actual holds on this one.
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21 | ★★★ Dr Marten's Boots - con Matt King, Mike Daws, Nathan | 25m, 6 | ★★★ Megaclásica | ||||
Had a big grin when clipping the anchors on this onsight. Got scared a bunch while moving and subsequently trusting my feet (just like every other route today). But dancing up this slab was actually ridiculously fun
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Mar 24.º Mayo 2022 - Evans Crown | |||||||
Deckout Buttress | |||||||
17 | Save the Whale - con Terry Neill, Peter Martland | 10m, 1 | ★ Buena | ||||
Not 19 if this is the right route.
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19 | ★ Pass the Lentils - con Terry Neill, Peter Martland | 12m | ★ Buena | ||||
Very delicate stretch move off the deck isn't 17 if this is the route.
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18 | ★★ The Straight and Narrow - con Terry Neill, Peter Martland | 20m | ★ Buena | ||||
Hard to tell which route is which really.
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Lun 18.º Abr 2022 - Evans Crown | |||||||
Googolplex Crag | |||||||
20 | ★★ Rene's Ethical Neutrality - con Drew Henman | 25m, 6 | ★★★ Clásico | ||||
Highlight of the day. Had to fight for this. Plenty of bolts on this and less old school. Great face this with many climbs to come back for
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Lun 18.º Abr 2022 - Evans Crown | |||||||
Crown Buttress | |||||||
17 | ★★ Up the Nose of Love - con Drew Henman, pete | 35m, 7 | ★★★ Clásico | ||||
Ripper climb in a great position. Loved this. Top made more spicy by not having enough bolt plates hence a 10m runout.
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Lun 18.º Abr 2022 - Evans Crown | |||||||
Deckout Buttress | |||||||
17 | ★ Space Invaders - con Drew Henman, pete | 20m, 4 | ★ Buena | ||||
19 | ★ Madonnas - con Drew Henman, pete | 15m | ★ Buena | ||||
Tough start. But that’s the theme here. Relearning to smear
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Sáb 16.º Abr 2022 - Evans Crown | |||||||
Deckout Buttress | |||||||
18 | ★ Scuds over Saudi - con BC | 15m, 4 | |||||
Lun 11.º Abr 2022 - Evans Crown | |||||||
Deckout Buttress | |||||||
17 | ★ Kersplat - con Tony Kelshaw | 15m, 3 | ★ Buena | ||||
Dom 10.º Abr 2022 - Evans Crown | |||||||
Crown Buttress | |||||||
17 | ★ Blue Train | 20m, 3 | |||||
14 | ★ Sitting Pretty | 20m, 5 | |||||
Sáb 9.º Abr 2022 - Evans Crown | |||||||
Deckout Buttress | |||||||
17 | ★ Kersplat | 15m, 3 | |||||
Mié 26.º En 2022 - Evans Crown | |||||||
Crown Buttress | |||||||
17 | ★ SB#2 | 6m, 3 | ★ Buena | ||||
V1-2 bouldery start then 17 slab. Ha ha.
|
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16 |
SB#1
2
16
7m
| 7m, 3 | Medio | ||||
Slabbing - that obscure art. I know one is supposed to Trust Your Feet and Just Step Up, but how easy is that? Struggled through with enough clean patches to stick on.
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Lun 24.º En 2022 - Evans Crown | |||||||
Deckout Buttress | |||||||
21 | ★★★ Dr Marten's Boots - con Jim Trihey, sienna | 25m, 6 | ★★★ Clásico | ||||
beautiful movement! sustained and well protected
|
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20 | ★★ Bloodbath - con Jim Trihey, sienna | 15m, 4 | ★★ Muy buena | ||||
another great line
|
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17 | ★ Kersplat - con Jim Trihey, sienna, alen | 15m, 3 | ★ Buena | ||||
bloody good fun. ive missed granite slabs
|
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18 | ★ Splat - con gav | 15m | |||||
Dom 23.º En 2022 - Evans Crown | |||||||
Deckout Buttress | |||||||
19 | ★★ Spare the Hammer | 15m, 4 | ★ Buena | ||||
Another hard start followed by sustained, unseemly effort. Completed in light rain, as if it wasn't enough... Still, a few spots far better than the pall of damp, fog and rain covering the Bluies.
|
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3 |
Through the Looking Glass
1
3
15m
2
| 15m | Medio | ||||
Tainted my grade 3 hands-free with a dab at 4m then exited via grade 12 layback right around block. P1 only.
|
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17 | ★ Kersplat | 15m, 3 | ★ Buena | ||||
Enjoyable sort of stuff Lumsden, Smoothy & the gang would have soloed and I would actually consider leading.
|
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17 | ★ Herd Instinct | 15m | ★ Buena | ||||
Pretty hard though low angled, used super highsteps & no doubt unnecessary hands-below-feet moves. Must bring Mr van Winkle out of retirement and sandstone territory to show me how it should be done.
|
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19 | ★ The 99 Route. | 15m, 4 | ★ Buena | ||||
Hard to get on then just plain desperate, apart from the flaky bits. Seems to be named Scuds over Saudi in another guide.
|
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13 | Deft | 8m | Medio | ||||
Actually relatively easy. Really.
|
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Dom 9.º En 2022 - Evans Crown | |||||||
Crown Buttress | |||||||
15 | ★ Les Grandes Courses | 10m | ★★ Muy buena | ||||
Tricky first bit then easy
|
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Jue 30.º Dic 2021 - Evans Crown | |||||||
The West Side Ridge | |||||||
24 | ★★ Stairway to Heaven | 8m | |||||
Great climb, would be super interested to know what the one on the arete is (opposite side). Felt harddd
|
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Jue 30.º Dic 2021 - Evans Crown | |||||||
Deckout Buttress | |||||||
21 | ★★★ Dr Marten's Boots | 25m, 6 | |||||
Jue 12.º Ag 2021 - Evans Crown | |||||||
Crown Buttress | |||||||
21 21 R | ★ Rap Station Zebra | 30m, 5 | |||||
21 | ★★ Honey, I Shrunk the Kids | 25m, 4 | |||||
Sáb 12.º Jun 2021 - Evans Crown | |||||||
Crown Buttress | |||||||
15 | ★ Les Grandes Courses | 10m | |||||
Lun 3.º Mayo 2021 - Evans Crown | |||||||
Deckout Buttress | |||||||
17 | ★ Space Invaders - con Paul | 20m, 4 | ★ Buena | ||||
19 | ★★ Spare the Hammer - con Paul | 15m, 4 | ★★ Muy buena | ||||
Sáb 24.º Abr 2021 - Evans Crown | |||||||
Crown Buttress | |||||||
16 | ★ Downright Left - con jamie corkins | 15m | ★★★ Clásico |