Grade | Route | Gear style | Quality | Climber | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
Sat 8th Jun 2024 - Evans Crown | |||||||
Crown Buttress | |||||||
14 Hard |
★ Sitting Pretty
![]() | 20m, 5 | |||||
Fri 7th Jun 2024 - Evans Crown | |||||||
Googolplex Crag | |||||||
20 |
★★★ Six Days on the Toad
![]() | 28m | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Amazing climbing in an amazing setting. This outcrop feels pretty special
|
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Fri 7th Jun 2024 - Evans Crown | |||||||
Deckout Buttress | |||||||
20 |
★★ Bloodbath
![]() | 15m, 4 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Cool features up this one!
|
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17 |
★ Kersplat
![]() | 15m, 3 | |||||
Much easier than the other 17
|
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17 |
★ Space Invaders
![]() | 20m, 4 | |||||
Almost decked-out getting to second
|
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Sat 27th Apr 2024 - Evans Crown | |||||||
Deckout Buttress | |||||||
19 |
★★ Spare the Hammer
![]() | 15m, 4 | |||||
Really fun even though it is hard to trust the rock in some places as everything sounds shallow.
|
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Fri 26th Apr 2024 - Evans Crown | |||||||
Deckout Buttress | |||||||
21 |
★★★ Dr Marten's Boots
![]() | 25m, 6 | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Classic proper slab climbing, all in the feet
|
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Tue 5th Mar 2024 - Evans Crown | |||||||
Crown Buttress | |||||||
17 |
★★ Up the Nose of Love
![]() | 35m, 7 | ★ Good | ||||
To finish went straight up the groove, placed two bits in the average crack and belayed off a small tree, poxy bush and average cam. Just didn't feel like following more bolts up the arete. Was this the original sortie naturelle?
|
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Sat 27th Jan 2024 - Evans Crown | |||||||
Googolplex Crag | |||||||
21 |
★★ God Help the Hash House Harriers
![]() | 28m | ★ Good | ||||
Sun 7th Jan 2024 - Evans Crown | |||||||
Crown Buttress | |||||||
18 |
★ Jailbreak from H-Block
![]() | 33m, 3 | ★ Good | ||||
Delicate start then super-highstep. Sport climbers will be stick-clipping in droves.
|
|||||||
Mon 1st Jan 2024 - Evans Crown | |||||||
Deckout Buttress | |||||||
20 ~19 |
★★ Bloodbath
![]() | 15m, 4 | ★ Good | ||||
Good edge slabbing.
|
|||||||
19 |
★ Greenies' Delight
![]() | 15m, 5 | Average | ||||
19 |
★ Jonestown
![]() | 15m, 3 | ★ Good | ||||
First top rope solo.
|
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Mon 1st Jan 2024 - Evans Crown | |||||||
Googolplex Crag | |||||||
18 Easy |
★★★ Fuzzy Navel
![]() | 75m | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Wasn't quite sure where the start was but picked the cleaniest crack+slab line that'd get us up to a DBB just right of a gorgeous slabby arete which I assumed was P2. Great slabbing on P2, all FHs but bring 2 plates for top.
|
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20 |
★★★ Six Days on the Toad
![]() | 28m | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Fantastic slabbing. No trad gear required. Favourite climb of the day.
|
|||||||
20 |
★★★ Six Days on the Toad
![]() | 28m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Surprised myself to be able to follow Mr M's excellent onsight.
|
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Mon 1st Jan 2024 - Evans Crown | |||||||
Deckout Buttress | |||||||
21 |
★★★ Dr Marten's Boots
![]() | 25m, 6 | ★ Good | ||||
Despite having last year clocked up just under 61,000m of vertical ascent (up stairs and bush trails, sadly not rock climbs) the mental rigours of slab climbing seemed to benefit little from aerobic or indeed physical capacity. After several strained moments staring at a pathetic indentation or crystal flake wondering if it could hold a foot or other appendage, one generally retires, shattered, with a well-worn mantra pounding through an overloaded frontal cortex: "These slabs are definitely doing my head in".
|
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Wed 27th Dec 2023 - Evans Crown | |||||||
Deckout Buttress | |||||||
18 |
★ Scuds over Saudi
![]() | 15m, 4 | |||||
Mossy choosy wet slabby adventure
|
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18 |
★ Scuds over Saudi
![]() | 15m, 4 | ★ Good | ||||
19 |
★★ Spare the Hammer
![]() | 15m, 4 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Very nice slabbing
|
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Sat 14th Oct 2023 - Evans Crown | |||||||
Crown Buttress | |||||||
15 |
★ Les Grandes Courses
![]() | 10m | ★ Good | ||||
Maybe La Petite Course would be more appropriate… though it is grand with a little bit of almost every crack size in its short length… Stout start that quickly eases, good fun …
|
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Mon 2nd Oct 2023 - Evans Crown | |||||||
Crown Buttress | |||||||
17 |
★★ Up the Nose of Love
![]() | 35m, 7 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
18 |
★ Jailbreak from H-Block
![]() | 33m, 3 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Nice slabbing. Runouts are not that bad on this one. Definitely easier than Jika Jika
|
|||||||
17 |
★★ Up the Nose of Love
![]() | 35m, 7 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
lovely climbing. Cruxy moves coming over the bulge. Climbed this to access the top of the crag. Watched the sun set up there and was beautiful. This is a sport climb with some carrots and some fixed hangers. Dont know why its listed as trad
|
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Sat 30th Sep 2023 - Evans Crown | |||||||
Crown Buttress | |||||||
17 |
★★ Up the Nose of Love
![]() | 35m, 7 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Sat 2nd Sep 2023 - Evans Crown | |||||||
Deckout Buttress | |||||||
21 |
★★★ Dr Marten's Boots
![]() | 25m, 6 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
One hell of a remind on how to climb slab. Maybe should have started on something a little more chill to remember my shoes work
|
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Sat 2nd Sep 2023 - Evans Crown | |||||||
Googolplex Crag | |||||||
21 |
★★ God Help the Hash House Harriers
![]() | 28m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Last route for the day, more quality slabbing.
|
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Sun 30th Jul 2023 - Evans Crown | |||||||
Googolplex Crag | |||||||
20 |
★★★ Six Days on the Toad
![]() | 28m | ★★★ Mega Classic | ||||
Utterly gripping. Felt safe once I clipped the anchor.
|
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Sun 30th Jul 2023 - Evans Crown | |||||||
Deckout Buttress | |||||||
19 ~18 |
★ Jonestown
![]() | 15m, 3 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Much better than scuds, or did I think that because it was easier??
|
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18 |
★ Scuds over Saudi
![]() | 15m, 4 | ★ Good | ||||
A rude welcome back to tarana. A healthy runout + small footers + no holds = fear
|
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Sat 3rd Jun 2023 - Evans Crown | |||||||
Crown Buttress | |||||||
16 |
★ Optem Bop
![]() | 30m, 5 | ★ Good | ||||
Tricky highstep over bulge
|
|||||||
18 |
★ Jika Jika
![]() | 30m, 4 | ★ Good | ||||
Sat 27th May 2023 - Evans Crown | |||||||
Deckout Buttress | |||||||
17 |
★ Space Invaders
![]() | 20m, 4 | |||||
Trivial
|
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19 |
★ Madonnas
![]() | 15m | |||||
I was disappointed. Expected hard, spicy, lichen slab, with questionable bolts. Got trivial slabbing with more bolts than necessary.
|
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13 |
Deft
![]() | 8m | |||||
Quite nice, less lichen on this one
|
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12 |
Blunt Stick
![]() | 8m | |||||
Nice
|
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Sat 13th May 2023 - Evans Crown | |||||||
Googolplex Crag | |||||||
22 |
★★ Laughing Boy Morris
![]() | 55m, 9 | |||||
21 |
★★ God Help the Hash House Harriers
![]() | 28m | |||||
21 |
Bilbo Baggins Direct Start
![]() | 10m, 3 | |||||
20 |
★★ Rene's Ethical Neutrality
![]() | 25m, 6 | |||||
20 |
★ Field Commander Jagusch
![]() | 25m, 5 | |||||
19 |
★★ Saddam's Black Heart
![]() | 25m | |||||
20 |
★★ Mr Bubbles
![]() | 25m, 5 | |||||
Sun 7th May 2023 - Evans Crown | |||||||
Googolplex Crag | |||||||
22 |
★ This One's for Evelyn
![]() | 25m, 2 | |||||
Felt exactly as described, still not 100% if this was the route or not, done alot of cleaning on the second pitch, glad I hauled up the number 4 and 5 cam
|
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Sun 23rd Apr 2023 - Evans Crown | |||||||
The Northern Slabs | |||||||
12 |
Headache
![]() | 20m | Average | ||||
Well I guess this was it, exacerbated by the worn approaches, despite only a few 12 moves at the top which became steeper and more lichenous after the clean rough lower central section of 4-6.
|
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Sat 8th Apr 2023 - Evans Crown | |||||||
Crown Buttress | |||||||
18 |
★★ Barad Dur
![]()
1
2
3
| 75m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Spent a while at the end of P1 before taking off my jacket and pulling out some sport climbing moves (but tree is in!) P2/3 we just followed a line of bolts straight up which didn’t really match the description and was a bit hardish for the grade; or maybe it was just the lichen. Last pitch is chill if you can offwidth and I wish I had led it.
|
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Mon 3rd Apr 2023 - Evans Crown | |||||||
Crown Buttress | |||||||
18 |
★★ Barad Dur
![]()
3
lead by
Tom Bes
glorious offwidth to finish omg. very spoilt to top out with just a magnificent pitch | 75m | |||||
this is a 3 pitch route - i took P2, Bah took P1 and P3.
|
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Sun 2nd Apr 2023 - Evans Crown | |||||||
Googolplex Crag | |||||||
19 |
★★ Saddam's Black Heart
![]() | 25m | |||||
slab climbing is so enjoyable - it all kinda feels the same but is never dull! hyper focused flow times
|
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Sun 26th Feb 2023 - Evans Crown | |||||||
Deckout Buttress | |||||||
21 |
★★★ Dr Marten's Boots
![]() | 25m, 6 | |||||
pretty stoked on this one! was very enjoyable and not a death slab! very well protected! fun for the whole family! one more exclamation point!
|
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Sat 7th Jan 2023 - Evans Crown | |||||||
Crown Buttress | |||||||
17 |
★★ Up the Nose of Love
![]() | 35m, 7 | |||||
NOT a trad route. Carrot bolts (I think around 6 or 7). Anchor is fixed hangers, so top out to finish.
|
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Sat 7th Jan 2023 - Evans Crown | |||||||
Deckout Buttress | |||||||
19 |
★★ Spare the Hammer
![]() | 15m, 4 | |||||
Fri 6th Jan 2023 - Evans Crown | |||||||
Deckout Buttress | |||||||
21 |
★★★ Dr Marten's Boots
![]() | 25m, 6 | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Wow! So damn good!! Amazing sustained slab climbing.
|
|||||||
17 |
★ Space Invaders
![]() | 20m, 4 | |||||
Thu 5th Jan 2023 - Evans Crown | |||||||
Deckout Buttress | |||||||
17 |
★ Kersplat
![]() | 15m, 3 | |||||
Thu 5th Jan 2023 - Evans Crown | |||||||
Crown Buttress | |||||||
18 |
★ Jailbreak from H-Block
![]() | 33m, 3 | ★ Good | ||||
16 |
★ Optem Bop
![]() | 30m, 5 | ★ Good | ||||
great warm up to get used to the wall there
|
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21 |
★★ Bad to the Bone
![]() | 20m, 6 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
nice sequence
|
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Wed 28th Dec 2022 - Evans Crown | |||||||
Googolplex Crag | |||||||
19 |
★★ Saddam's Black Heart
![]() | 25m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Sun 6th Nov 2022 - Evans Crown | |||||||
Deckout Buttress | |||||||
19 |
★ Greenies' Delight
![]() | 15m, 5 | Average | ||||
Surprised Jeff cruised what looked like a forest of lichen, and perhaps even more that I flash followed.
|
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19 |
★★ Bloodbath
![]() | 15m, 4 | ★ Good | ||||
Old Slabbers Afternoon with Jeff (leading) and Gayle Boyton, and Rod Kotkis, ably observed by A. Jones of Jonestown (the route), who opined that many routes were not in fact soloed on the FA "because you would die". But who's to disprove that this was an impediment to 19 year old slab specialists? Such as he who reliably informed me he soloed The Fear at North Head back in the day?
|
|||||||
18 |
★ Madonnas
![]() | 15m | ★ Good | ||||
Turns out this is what I've been doing, not other routes, according to the authoritative Old Slabbers, so there we go.
|
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Sun 16th Oct 2022 - Evans Crown | |||||||
Crown Buttress | |||||||
19 |
★★ Bad to the Bone
![]() | 20m, 6 | ★ Good | ||||
Not a 21 slab - no harder than many on Deckout.
|
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Sun 2nd Oct 2022 - Evans Crown | |||||||
Crown Buttress | |||||||
16 14 |
★ Sitting Pretty (Psyke)
![]() | 20m, 5 | |||||
15 17 |
★ Blue Train (Dyke)
![]() | 20m, 3 | |||||
12 |
★ Nerves of Rubber
![]() | 30m, 2 | |||||
18 |
★ Jailbreak from H-Block
![]() | 33m, 3 | |||||
Mon 5th Sep 2022 - Evans Crown | |||||||
Crown Buttress | |||||||
17 |
★★ Up the Nose of Love
![]() | 35m, 7 | ★ Good | ||||
Wed 27th Jul 2022 - Evans Crown | |||||||
Crown Buttress | |||||||
15 17 |
★ Blue Train (Dyke)
![]() | 20m, 3 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Sat 23rd Jul 2022 - Evans Crown | |||||||
Deckout Buttress | |||||||
19 |
★ Madonnas
![]() | 15m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Tough start, then a nice cruise to the top.
|
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19 |
★★ Spare the Hammer
![]() | 15m, 4 | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Really nice featured start, then sweet padding to the top.
|
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20 |
★★ Bloodbath
![]() | 15m, 4 | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Sweeeet climbing. Some really nice actual holds on this one.
|
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21 |
★★★ Dr Marten's Boots
![]() | 25m, 6 | ★★★ Mega Classic | ||||
Had a big grin when clipping the anchors on this onsight. Got scared a bunch while moving and subsequently trusting my feet (just like every other route today). But dancing up this slab was actually ridiculously fun
|
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Tue 24th May 2022 - Evans Crown | |||||||
Deckout Buttress | |||||||
17 |
Save the Whale
![]() | 10m, 1 | ★ Good | ||||
Not 19 if this is the right route.
|
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19 |
★ Pass the Lentils
![]() | 12m | ★ Good | ||||
Very delicate stretch move off the deck isn't 17 if this is the route.
|
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18 |
★★ The Straight and Narrow
![]() | 20m | ★ Good | ||||
Hard to tell which route is which really.
|
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Mon 18th Apr 2022 - Evans Crown | |||||||
Googolplex Crag | |||||||
20 |
★★ Rene's Ethical Neutrality
![]() | 25m, 6 | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Highlight of the day. Had to fight for this. Plenty of bolts on this and less old school. Great face this with many climbs to come back for
|
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Mon 18th Apr 2022 - Evans Crown | |||||||
Crown Buttress | |||||||
17 |
★★ Up the Nose of Love
![]() | 35m, 7 | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Ripper climb in a great position. Loved this. Top made more spicy by not having enough bolt plates hence a 10m runout.
|
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Mon 18th Apr 2022 - Evans Crown | |||||||
Deckout Buttress | |||||||
17 |
★ Space Invaders
![]() | 20m, 4 | ★ Good | ||||
19 |
★ Madonnas
![]() | 15m | ★ Good | ||||
Tough start. But that’s the theme here. Relearning to smear
|
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Sat 16th Apr 2022 - Evans Crown | |||||||
Deckout Buttress | |||||||
18 |
★ Scuds over Saudi
![]() | 15m, 4 | |||||
Mon 11th Apr 2022 - Evans Crown | |||||||
Deckout Buttress | |||||||
17 |
★ Kersplat
![]() | 15m, 3 | ★ Good | ||||
Sun 10th Apr 2022 - Evans Crown | |||||||
Crown Buttress | |||||||
17 |
★ Blue Train
![]() | 20m, 3 | |||||
14 |
★ Sitting Pretty
![]() | 20m, 5 | |||||
Sat 9th Apr 2022 - Evans Crown | |||||||
Deckout Buttress | |||||||
17 |
★ Kersplat
![]() | 15m, 3 | |||||
Wed 26th Jan 2022 - Evans Crown | |||||||
Crown Buttress | |||||||
17 |
★ SB#2
![]() | 6m, 3 | ★ Good | ||||
V1-2 bouldery start then 17 slab. Ha ha.
|
|||||||
16 |
SB#1
![]()
2
16
7m
| 7m, 3 | Average | ||||
Slabbing - that obscure art. I know one is supposed to Trust Your Feet and Just Step Up, but how easy is that? Struggled through with enough clean patches to stick on.
|
|||||||
Mon 24th Jan 2022 - Evans Crown | |||||||
Deckout Buttress | |||||||
21 |
★★★ Dr Marten's Boots
![]() | 25m, 6 | ★★★ Classic | ||||
beautiful movement! sustained and well protected
|
|||||||
20 |
★★ Bloodbath
![]() | 15m, 4 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
another great line
|
|||||||
17 |
★ Kersplat
![]() | 15m, 3 | ★ Good | ||||
bloody good fun. ive missed granite slabs
|
|||||||
18 |
★ Splat
![]() | 15m | |||||
Sun 23rd Jan 2022 - Evans Crown | |||||||
Deckout Buttress | |||||||
19 |
★★ Spare the Hammer
![]() | 15m, 4 | ★ Good | ||||
Another hard start followed by sustained, unseemly effort. Completed in light rain, as if it wasn't enough... Still, a few spots far better than the pall of damp, fog and rain covering the Bluies.
|
|||||||
3 |
Through the Looking Glass
![]()
1
3
15m
2
| 15m | Average | ||||
Tainted my grade 3 hands-free with a dab at 4m then exited via grade 12 layback right around block. P1 only.
|
|||||||
17 |
★ Kersplat
![]() | 15m, 3 | ★ Good | ||||
Enjoyable sort of stuff Lumsden, Smoothy & the gang would have soloed and I would actually consider leading.
|
|||||||
17 |
★ Herd Instinct
![]() | 15m | ★ Good | ||||
Pretty hard though low angled, used super highsteps & no doubt unnecessary hands-below-feet moves. Must bring Mr van Winkle out of retirement and sandstone territory to show me how it should be done.
|
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19 |
★ The 99 Route.
![]() | 15m, 4 | ★ Good | ||||
Hard to get on then just plain desperate, apart from the flaky bits. Seems to be named Scuds over Saudi in another guide.
|
|||||||
13 |
Deft
![]() | 8m | Average | ||||
Actually relatively easy. Really.
|
|||||||
Sun 9th Jan 2022 - Evans Crown | |||||||
Crown Buttress | |||||||
15 |
★ Les Grandes Courses
![]() | 10m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Tricky first bit then easy
|
|||||||
Thu 30th Dec 2021 - Evans Crown | |||||||
The West Side Ridge | |||||||
24 |
★★ Stairway to Heaven
![]() | 8m | |||||
Great climb, would be super interested to know what the one on the arete is (opposite side). Felt harddd
|
|||||||
Thu 30th Dec 2021 - Evans Crown | |||||||
Deckout Buttress | |||||||
21 |
★★★ Dr Marten's Boots
![]() | 25m, 6 | |||||
Thu 12th Aug 2021 - Evans Crown | |||||||
Crown Buttress | |||||||
21 21 R |
★ Rap Station Zebra
![]() | 30m, 5 |