Grado | Vía | Estilo de equipamiento | Calidad | Escalador | |||
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Sáb 13.º Sep 2014 - Evans Crown | |||||||
Crown Buttress | |||||||
12 | ★ Nerves of Rubber - con Sydney North Climbing | 30m, 2 | ★ Buena | ||||
Sáb 13.º Sep 2014 - Evans Crown | |||||||
Deckout Buttress | |||||||
17 | ★ Kersplat | 15m, 3 | ★★ Muy buena | ||||
17 | ★ Kersplat - con Sydney North Climbing | 15m, 3 | |||||
Sáb 13.º Sep 2014 - Evans Crown | |||||||
Crown Buttress | |||||||
21 | ★★ Honey, I Shrunk the Kids - con Adrian Kladnig | 25m, 4 | ★ Buena | ||||
21 | ★★ Honey, I Shrunk the Kids - con Adrian Kladnig | 25m, 4 | ★ Buena | ||||
After a number of attempts I got the start over the bulge but chickened out on the head scoop....super delicate feet!
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Sáb 13.º Sep 2014 - Evans Crown | |||||||
Deckout Buttress | |||||||
20 | ★ Mortal Combat - con Dominic Warland | 18m, 3 | ★★ Muy buena | ||||
Delicate start
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20 | ★★ Bloodbath - con Matt | 15m, 4 | ★★ Muy buena | ||||
Top roped it, lead it with small fall and got it clean on third ascent
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18 17 | ★ Kersplat - con Adrian Kladnig | 15m, 3 | ★ Buena | ||||
Thought it was a different climb, slightly to the right on a newer set of FH.
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Vie 12.º Sep 2014 - Evans Crown | |||||||
Crown Buttress | |||||||
18 | ★ Jailbreak from H-Block | 33m, 3 | |||||
16 | ★ Optem Bop | 30m, 5 | |||||
Dom 23.º Mar 2014 - Evans Crown | |||||||
Crown Buttress | |||||||
14 17 | ★ Blue Train (Dyke) | 20m, 3 | |||||
2014 - Evans Crown | |||||||
Crown Buttress | |||||||
17 | ★★ Not Blue Train (Blue Train) | 30m, 6 | ★★★ Clásico | ||||
Sáb 9.º Nov 2013 - Evans Crown | |||||||
Deckout Buttress | |||||||
17 | ★ Kersplat | 15m, 3 | |||||
19 18 | ★ Scuds over Saudi (The 99 Route.) | 15m, 4 | |||||
20 | ★★ Bloodbath | 15m, 4 | |||||
21 | ★★★ Dr Marten's Boots | 25m, 6 | |||||
17 | ★ Space Invaders | 20m, 4 | |||||
Dom 22.º Sep 2013 - Evans Crown | |||||||
Crown Buttress | |||||||
18 | ★ Jailbreak from H-Block | 33m, 3 | |||||
18 | ★ Jika Jika | 30m, 4 | |||||
18 | ★ Jika Jika | 30m, 4 | |||||
12 | ★ Blame it on Sarah | 40m | |||||
Sáb 21.º Sep 2013 - Evans Crown | |||||||
Deckout Buttress | |||||||
17 | ★ Kersplat | 15m, 3 | |||||
17 | ★ Space Invaders | 20m, 4 | |||||
13 | Deft | 8m | |||||
14 | Lipstick | 8m, 2 | |||||
14 | Lipstick | 8m, 2 | |||||
14 | Lipstick | 8m, 2 | |||||
21 | ★★ Dick Whittington | 15m, 2 | |||||
17 | ★ Kersplat | 15m, 3 | |||||
17 | ★ Space Invaders | 20m, 4 | |||||
13 | Deft | 8m | |||||
14 | Lipstick | 8m, 2 | Medio | ||||
14 | Lipstick | 8m, 2 | Medio | ||||
Sáb 1.º Jun 2013 - Evans Crown | |||||||
Deckout Buttress | |||||||
17 | ★ Space Invaders | 20m, 4 | ★ Buena | ||||
got it second time with a less agressive shoe and some work on the lower moves was alot of fun
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17 | ★ Space Invaders | 20m, 4 | ★ Buena | ||||
First attempt dogged it because I had trouble with the start
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14 | Lipstick | 8m, 2 | ★★ Muy buena | ||||
Did it once on lead, felt good to try a solo with the guys, felt solid
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14 | Lipstick | 8m, 2 | ★★ Muy buena | ||||
nice stuff, what a difference friction slabs are
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18 | ★★ The Straight and Narrow | 20m | ★★ Muy buena | ||||
Repeat (again). A quick speed ascent to get the draws back in the rain. Rained out of Tarana before I could get on the stuff I REALLY wanted to try!
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20 | ★ Mortal Combat | 18m, 3 | ★ Buena | ||||
Good to clean up this old ghost first shot today. The start was tricky, but hardly nails... I don't know what drugs I was on last time I was at Tarana (I couldn't get up the start of this in like 15 attempts, but could onsight the monster Retreat from Moscow???). Okay climbing after the second bolt (felt about Tarana Grade 18).
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21 21 R | ★ Scabby Lizards | 20m, 2 | ★ Buena | ||||
Fell after the first bolt, on the tenuous moves to gain the lip of the rooflet. Not very sustained, but the crux move is genuinely tough, with everything relying on a single terrible footer while your body position works to compromise it (hence the fall). Might have given it another lap for the tick, but it was a bloody nuisence getting off the top, so I cleaned it instead. Could be great with the first bolt replaced, and if it weren't so damn dirty and mossy.
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21 | ★★ Polkagris | 15m, 4 | ★ Buena | ||||
Good to clean up this dog. The section where I fell last time felt quite easy. The moves out left to gain the rooflet are really tricky, but satisfying. Sustained for such a short little number.
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18 | ★★ The Straight and Narrow | 20m | ★★ Muy buena | ||||
Pretty awesome as a free solo, due to it being reasonably sustained. Going direct through the bulge at the top (not bailing to either side of it) requires some committment without a rope. Felt good.
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18 | ★★ The Straight and Narrow | 20m | ★★ Muy buena | ||||
Repeat. More headpointing for another free-solo attempt. Sustained, but not particularly cruxy. Might feel easier than Space Invaders to some due to the tough start on Space Invaders.
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17 | ★ Space Invaders | 20m, 4 | ★★ Muy buena | ||||
Not too bad as a free solo, felt solid all the way.
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17 | ★ Space Invaders | 20m, 4 | ★★ Muy buena | ||||
Repeat. A spot of headpointing for a free-solo lap. Great climb, with all the hardest moves over by the second bolt. The start is desperate for the grade.
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14 | Lipstick | 8m, 2 | Medio | ||||
Repeat. Warm-up free-solo. Definately the best route for introducing friends to friction-slabbing.
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Sáb 20.º Abr 2013 - Evans Crown | |||||||
Deckout Buttress | |||||||
17 | ★ Kersplat | 15m, 3 | ★ Buena | ||||
20 | ★ Mortal Combat | 18m, 3 | ★ Buena | ||||
20 | ★★ Bloodbath | 15m, 4 | ★★ Muy buena | ||||
17 | ★ Herd Instinct | 15m | |||||
Lun 11.º Mar 2013 - Evans Crown | |||||||
Deckout Buttress | |||||||
17 | ★ Kersplat | 15m, 3 | |||||
tough in the sun
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20 | ★★ Bloodbath | 15m, 4 | |||||
easier than kersplat!
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21 | ★★★ Dr Marten's Boots | 25m, 6 | |||||
sore fingertips now
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Sáb 9.º Feb 2013 - Evans Crown | |||||||
Crown Buttress | |||||||
17 | ★★ Not Blue Train (Blue Train) | 30m, 6 | ★ Buena | ||||
Rockies trip.
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13 | ★ Cirdan | 20m | |||||
17 | ★★ Up the Nose of Love | 35m, 7 | ★★★ Clásico | ||||
Sáb 9.º Feb 2013 - Evans Crown | |||||||
Deckout Buttress | |||||||
14 | Lipstick | 8m, 2 | ★ Buena | ||||
Rockies Trip.
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19 | Save the Whale | 10m, 1 | Medio | ||||
17 | ★ Pass the Lentils | 12m | ★★ Muy buena | ||||
19 18 | ★ Scuds over Saudi (The 99 Route.) | 15m, 4 | ★★ Muy buena | ||||
Vie 21.º Dic 2012 - Evans Crown | |||||||
Deckout Buttress | |||||||
17 | ★ Kersplat - con Ben | 15m, 3 | Ni te molestes | ||||
Sáb 3.º Nov 2012 - Evans Crown | |||||||
Deckout Buttress | |||||||
14 | ★ You Can't Keep a Good Man Down | 15m | |||||
14 | ★ You Can't Keep a Good Man Down | 15m | |||||
17 | ★ Kersplat | 15m, 3 | |||||
20 | ★ Mortal Combat | 18m, 3 | |||||
19 | ★★ Spare the Hammer | 15m, 4 | |||||
19 | ★ Greenies' Delight | 15m, 5 | |||||
19 | ★ Jonestown | 15m, 3 | |||||
this was still above my level really, but i'd love to have another go
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14 | Lipstick | 8m, 2 | |||||
did this one twice for some practise-beginning was hard, for my first outdoor climb I enjoyed it.
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14 | Lipstick | 8m, 2 | |||||
19 | ★ Greenies' Delight | 15m, 5 | |||||
19 | ★★ Spare the Hammer | 15m, 4 | |||||
17 | ★ Kersplat | 15m, 3 | |||||
17 | ★ Space Invaders | 20m, 4 | |||||
17 | ★ Space Invaders | 20m, 4 | |||||
13 | Deft | 8m | |||||
21 | ★★★ Dr Marten's Boots | 25m, 6 | |||||
21 | ★★★ Dr Marten's Boots | 25m, 6 | |||||
Battled with the start here..
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13 | Deft | 8m | |||||
14 | Lipstick | 8m, 2 | Medio | ||||
19 | Save the Whale | 10m, 1 | |||||
20 | ★★ Bloodbath | 15m, 4 | |||||
One rest at crux.
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14 | Lipstick | 8m, 2 | |||||
14 | Lipstick | 8m, 2 | |||||
21 | ★★ Polkagris | 15m, 4 | |||||
Top Rope to clean route as no one else was up for it. Felt harder to top rope than lead!
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19 | ★ Jonestown | 15m, 3 | |||||
21 | ★★ Polkagris | 15m, 4 | |||||
19 | ★ Jonestown | 15m, 3 | |||||
14 | Lipstick | 8m, 2 | |||||
17 | ★ Space Invaders | 20m, 4 | |||||
Working out which route is which is harder than the climbing. Hopefully I've got it right, otherwise I'll have to redo the topos!
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Jue 1.º Nov 2012 - Evans Crown | |||||||
Deckout Buttress | |||||||
17 | ★ Space Invaders | 20m, 4 | |||||
18 | ★★ The Straight and Narrow | 20m | |||||
19 | ★★ Spare the Hammer | 15m, 4 | |||||
20 | ★★ Bloodbath | 15m, 4 | |||||
Sáb 27.º Oct 2012 - Evans Crown | |||||||
Googolplex Crag | |||||||
19 | Pr.Asc. ★ Occam's Razor Antithesis | 45m | ★ Buena | ||||
End of the day, too tired to make it up LBM or SDOTT after retreat from Moscow? Why not just traverse halfway around googleplex to the more pleasant Field Commander Jagusch and finish up it. Quite technical safe-ish climbing on minimal trad gear, and a pleasant end to the day. The simplest solution would have been to just sack up and go up LBM/SDOTT.
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21 | ★★★ Retreat from Moscow | 25m, 5 | ★★★ Clásico | ||||
Onsight but for the first moves.The log you used to use has broken, so now any ascent is literally off the ground. Nails start to high first bolt with cruxy moves and worrisome groundfall potential. Then nails sequence to high second bolt where any fall will also be a messy groundfall. After that you've mostly safe, though the climbing remains really tough, somewhat wandery, and scary. As per below, there are NO rap anchors. We made up a route to escape this climb. Masochistically great climb!
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Sáb 27.º Oct 2012 - Evans Crown | |||||||
Deckout Buttress | |||||||
19 18 | ★ Scuds over Saudi (The 99 Route.) | 15m, 4 | ★★ Muy buena | ||||
Brilliant, but tough as nails for the first half of the climb, and incredibly likely groundfall potential most of the way up. Cruxy until you get to the flakes at half height (maybe I should've stick clipped the first high-hanger), and delicate thought-provoking climbing up amazingly thin flakes that move as you climb on them. Great... But don't fall.
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20 | ★ Mortal Combat | 18m, 3 | |||||
Nope, couldn't get past the first 3m of climbing. Must have had about 15 shots, trying everything imaginable. Perhaps there's a trick to it, but nothing I did could stop that left footer from sliding off the sidepull as I tried to move further up.
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19 | ★★ Spare the Hammer | 15m, 4 | ★★★ Clásico | ||||
Onsight but for the first 2m of climbing (slipped off at the start). Awesome, technical start leads to quite sustained climbing all the way to the top.. Brilliant!
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20 | ★★ Bloodbath | 15m, 4 | ★★ Muy buena | ||||
Repeat. On the second lap, I've decided that the climbing moves are more difficult than the other climbs around it, but the sequence is significantly easier to read, hence the presumption that it feels easier (despite being more technical). Still great, though.
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