Grado | Vía | Estilo de equipamiento | Calidad | Escalador | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
Sáb 3.º Jun 2023 - Evans Crown | |||||||
Crown Buttress | |||||||
16 | ★ Optem Bop | 30m, 5 | ★ Buena | ||||
Tricky highstep over bulge
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18 | ★ Jika Jika | 30m, 4 | ★ Buena | ||||
14 ~15 | ★ Sitting Pretty | 20m, 5 | ★ Buena | ||||
Sáb 27.º Mayo 2023 - Evans Crown | |||||||
Deckout Buttress | |||||||
17 | ★ Space Invaders | 20m, 4 | |||||
Trivial
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19 | ★ Madonnas | 15m | |||||
I was disappointed. Expected hard, spicy, lichen slab, with questionable bolts. Got trivial slabbing with more bolts than necessary.
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19 | Save the Whale | 10m, 1 | |||||
A few goes to get the start, then cruisey
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13 | Deft | 8m | |||||
Quite nice, less lichen on this one
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12 | Blunt Stick | 8m | |||||
Nice
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Sáb 13.º Mayo 2023 - Evans Crown | |||||||
Googolplex Crag | |||||||
22 | ★★ Laughing Boy Morris | 55m, 9 | |||||
20 | ★★★ Six Days on the Toad | 28m | |||||
21 | ★★ God Help the Hash House Harriers | 28m | |||||
21 | Bilbo Baggins Direct Start | 10m, 3 | |||||
20 | ★★ Rene's Ethical Neutrality | 25m, 6 | |||||
20 | ★ Field Commander Jagusch | 25m, 5 | |||||
19 | ★★ Saddam's Black Heart | 25m | |||||
20 | ★★ Mr Bubbles | 25m, 5 | |||||
Dom 7.º Mayo 2023 - Evans Crown | |||||||
Googolplex Crag | |||||||
22 | ★ This One's for Evelyn - con soph | 25m, 2 | |||||
Felt exactly as described, still not 100% if this was the route or not, done alot of cleaning on the second pitch, glad I hauled up the number 4 and 5 cam
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Dom 23.º Abr 2023 - Evans Crown | |||||||
The Northern Slabs | |||||||
12 | Headache | 20m | Medio | ||||
Well I guess this was it, exacerbated by the worn approaches, despite only a few 12 moves at the top which became steeper and more lichenous after the clean rough lower central section of 4-6.
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Dom 16.º Abr 2023 - Evans Crown | |||||||
Crown Buttress | |||||||
17 | ★★ Up the Nose of Love - con Amanda Vipond | 35m, 7 | |||||
17 | ★★ Up the Nose of Love - con Anthony Claxton | 35m, 7 | ★★★ Clásico | ||||
Sáb 15.º Abr 2023 - Evans Crown | |||||||
Deckout Buttress | |||||||
21 | ★★★ Dr Marten's Boots - con Amanda Vipond | 25m, 6 | |||||
Slipped off the first move a few times, then went from the ground. Awesome pitch
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Sáb 15.º Abr 2023 - Evans Crown | |||||||
Crown Buttress | |||||||
20 | ★★ Righty - con Amanda Vipond | 25m, 4 | |||||
Again slipped off the first move then from the ground. Really nice rock
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14 | ★ Sitting Pretty - con Amanda Vipond | 20m, 5 | |||||
17 | ★ Blue Train - con Amanda Vipond | 20m, 3 | |||||
20 | ★★ Righty - con Anthony Claxton | 25m, 4 | ★★ Muy buena | ||||
14 | ★ Sitting Pretty - con Anthony Claxton | 20m, 5 | |||||
17 | ★ Blue Train - con Anthony Claxton | 20m, 3 | ★ Buena | ||||
Sáb 8.º Abr 2023 - Evans Crown | |||||||
Deckout Buttress | |||||||
17 | ★ Space Invaders - con cedric | 20m, 4 | ★ Buena | ||||
Did the hard bits, I think, but not being able to reach the 4th carrot from the good stance was the last straw for me friable nerves. Really fun style… but different.
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Sáb 8.º Abr 2023 - Evans Crown | |||||||
Crown Buttress | |||||||
18 |
★★ Barad Dur
- con
cedric
1
2
3
| 75m | ★★ Muy buena | ||||
Spent a while at the end of P1 before taking off my jacket and pulling out some sport climbing moves (but tree is in!) P2/3 we just followed a line of bolts straight up which didn’t really match the description and was a bit hardish for the grade; or maybe it was just the lichen. Last pitch is chill if you can offwidth and I wish I had led it.
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Mar 4.º Abr 2023 - Evans Crown | |||||||
Crown Buttress | |||||||
18 | ★★ Barad Dur - con Jake Delaney | 75m | ★★★ Clásico | ||||
first pitch is an unusual crack/layback situation with a big hard move at the end. the TR in TRad stands for TRees are on right? then two well bolted slab options for pitch 2/3 (do as one pitch) we went left as it wasnt a 'lichen deathscape' as described by Cake Dalmeney. and then the triumphant final pitch of one of the most enjoyable offwidths ive ever done. its a bummer someone has bolted the easy looking headwall 1m right of the crack. dont be tempted, get wide!
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17 ~20 | ★ Your Neighbourhood Bolter - con Jake Delaney | 25m, 4 | ★★ Muy buena | ||||
noticeably harder than the 19 slabs we had done on this trip. a lot more frictiony. awesome moves though
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Mar 4.º Abr 2023 - Evans Crown | |||||||
Googolplex Crag | |||||||
20 | ★★ Rene's Ethical Neutrality - con Jake Delaney | 25m, 6 | |||||
has approx 10 bolts now. and i hung on many of them. great slabbing. still can pop the #3 cam in the volcano spot if you want but not essential
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19 | ★★ Saddam's Black Heart - con Jake Delaney | 25m | |||||
for some reason i am quite incapable of recalling this climb even hours after i did it. im sure it was good they all are.
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Mar 4.º Abr 2023 - Evans Crown | |||||||
Deckout Buttress | |||||||
19 Fácil | ★ Jonestown - con Jake Delaney | 15m, 3 | ★★★ Clásico | ||||
blew the onsight by going left up top onto the wet slopey zone and grabbed the chains instead of clipping. awesome climb though
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Lun 3.º Abr 2023 - Evans Crown | |||||||
Crown Buttress | |||||||
18 |
★★ Barad Dur
- con
Tom Bes
3
escalada de primero por
Tom Bes
glorious offwidth to finish omg. very spoilt to top out with just a magnificent pitch | 75m | |||||
this is a 3 pitch route - i took P2, Bah took P1 and P3.
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17 | ★ Your Neighbourhood Bolter - con Tom Bes | 25m, 4 | |||||
wow, thought we were getting a walk in the park slab to finish - nope! some of the most tenuous climbing all weekend! grades on slabs seem somewhat irrelevant - 17-20 and i could not tell the difference
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Dom 2.º Abr 2023 - Evans Crown | |||||||
Googolplex Crag | |||||||
20 | ★★ Rene's Ethical Neutrality - con Tom Bes | 25m, 6 | |||||
was very lucky to get a spritz-less window for this one!
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19 | ★★ Saddam's Black Heart - con Tom Bes | 25m | |||||
slab climbing is so enjoyable - it all kinda feels the same but is never dull! hyper focused flow times
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Dom 2.º Abr 2023 - Evans Crown | |||||||
Deckout Buttress | |||||||
19 | ★ Jonestown - con Tom Bes | 15m, 3 | |||||
my exploded ankle lives on!
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Dom 26.º Mar 2023 - Evans Crown | |||||||
Deckout Buttress | |||||||
17 | ★ Space Invaders | 20m, 4 | ★ Buena | ||||
Funny how seeing someone make less effort leading nearly twice the grade puts things in perspective.
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19 | ★ Madonnas | 15m | Medio | ||||
Dom 26.º Feb 2023 - Evans Crown | |||||||
Googolplex Crag | |||||||
30 | ★★★ Fight Club - con Julie Pon | 15m | |||||
nope. but the only chance i have at climbing my age so time to get to work.
where does everyone else start and did you just protect it with pads while its a chimney before you can get a 6 in? |
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Dom 26.º Feb 2023 - Evans Crown | |||||||
Deckout Buttress | |||||||
21 | ★★★ Dr Marten's Boots - con Julie Pon | 25m, 6 | |||||
pretty stoked on this one! was very enjoyable and not a death slab! very well protected! fun for the whole family! one more exclamation point!
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21 | ★★ Chain Mail Crack - con Julie Pon | 15m | |||||
haaaard start but maybe eases after that? glad to know its not overgrown like i initially thought! looks mega
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19 | ★ Jonestown - con Julie Pon | 15m, 3 | |||||
3pm and we finally topped something yay!
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Jue 23.º Feb 2023 - Evans Crown | |||||||
Deckout Buttress | |||||||
19 | ★ Jonestown | 15m, 3 | ★ Buena | ||||
Mountains in a pall of gloom, Tarana dry.
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Lun 16.º En 2023 - Evans Crown | |||||||
Deckout Buttress | |||||||
17 | ★ Space Invaders - con Warwick | 20m, 4 | ★★ Muy buena | ||||
Think this has 5 glue in SS bolts up the clean streak.
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19 | ★ Madonnas - con Warwick | 15m | Medio | ||||
Think this has 2 old carrots, an overlap, and way too much lichen for a "safe" lead.
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17 | ★ Pass the Lentils - con Warwick | 12m | ★ Buena | ||||
Master class in sunny slabbing by an old master.
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Sáb 7.º En 2023 - Evans Crown | |||||||
Crown Buttress | |||||||
17 | ★★ Up the Nose of Love - con Rafael Andreollo | 35m, 7 | |||||
NOT a trad route. Carrot bolts (I think around 6 or 7). Anchor is fixed hangers, so top out to finish.
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21 | ★ Bad to the Bone - con Rafael Andreollo | 20m, 6 | |||||
Sáb 7.º En 2023 - Evans Crown | |||||||
Deckout Buttress | |||||||
19 | ★★ Spare the Hammer - con Rafael Andreollo | 15m, 4 | |||||
17 | ★ Space Invaders - con Rafael Andreollo | 20m, 4 | |||||
Sáb 7.º En 2023 - Evans Crown | |||||||
Crown Buttress | |||||||
20 | ★★ Righty - con Rafael Andreollo | 25m, 4 | |||||
Bit less run out than the Lefty. Final move to go on top of boulder is fun.
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19 | ★★ Lefty - con Rafael Andreollo | 20m, 2 | |||||
Very runout. Bit scary to clip first bolt. Anchor is rusty.
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15 | ★ Les Grandes Courses - con Rafael Andreollo | 10m | |||||
16 | ★ Downright Left - con Rafael Andreollo | 15m | |||||
21 | ★★ Honey, I Shrunk the Kids - con Rafael Andreollo | 25m, 4 | |||||
Vie 6.º En 2023 - Evans Crown | |||||||
Crown Buttress | |||||||
20 | Cintas puestas ★★ Righty - con Guilherme Pizzi | 25m, 4 | ★★ Muy buena | ||||
Fun crux. This route has carrots at the top and needs to be topped out.
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19 | Cintas puestas ★★ Lefty - con Guilherme Pizzi | 20m, 2 | ★★ Muy buena | ||||
Anchors are pretty rusty but seem to be holding pretty good.
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15 | Guante de fisura ★ Les Grandes Courses - con Guilherme Pizzi | 10m | ★ Buena | ||||
What a delight to find another FA from Mike Law here. I think I put too much gear and couldn't really jam my feet on the crack. Harder that other 15's I've climbed.
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16 | ★ Downright Left - con Guilherme Pizzi | 15m | Ni te molestes | ||||
I didn't understand the top. Feels like some foothold broke off there. Had to pull on gear to make it through. Wasn't easy to build a trad anchor for the second as most of the ledge was soaking wet. Also struggled with the rope snagging somewhere in the crack. Hope these comments help the next desperate person looking for something dry on a rainy day there, which will prob be a few years from now. The rest of the route was actually fun.
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Vie 6.º En 2023 - Evans Crown | |||||||
Deckout Buttress | |||||||
21 | ★★★ Dr Marten's Boots | 25m, 6 | ★★★ Clásico | ||||
Wow! So damn good!! Amazing sustained slab climbing.
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17 | ★ Kersplat | 15m, 3 | |||||
18 | ★ Splat | 15m | |||||
17 | ★ Space Invaders | 20m, 4 | |||||
Jue 5.º En 2023 - Evans Crown | |||||||
Crown Buttress | |||||||
18 | ★ Jailbreak from H-Block - con Rafael Andreollo | 33m, 3 | |||||
16 | ★ Optem Bop - con Rafael Andreollo | 30m, 5 | |||||
Jue 5.º En 2023 - Evans Crown | |||||||
Deckout Buttress | |||||||
17 | ★ Kersplat - con Rafael Andreollo | 15m, 3 | |||||
19 | ★★ Spare the Hammer — 3 intentos - con Guilherme Pizzi | 15m, 4 | ★ Buena | ||||
a couple of false starts before I got this done.
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17 | Cintas puestas ★ Kersplat - con Guilherme Pizzi | 15m, 3 | ★ Buena | ||||
Jue 5.º En 2023 - Evans Crown | |||||||
Crown Buttress | |||||||
18 | ★ Jailbreak from H-Block - con Guilherme Pizzi | 33m, 3 | ★ Buena | ||||
16 | ★ Optem Bop - con Guilherme Pizzi | 30m, 5 | ★ Buena | ||||
great warm up to get used to the wall there
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21 | ★★ Honey, I Shrunk the Kids — 2 intentos - con Guilherme Pizzi | 25m, 4 | ★★ Muy buena | ||||
Messed up the sequence up high on the route. It was pretty fun though. Took me two tries to figure out the start crux
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17 | Cintas puestas ★★ Up the Nose of Love - con Guilherme Pizzi | 35m, 7 | ★★★ Clásico | ||||
21 | ★ Bad to the Bone - con Guilherme Pizzi | 20m, 6 | ★★ Muy buena | ||||
nice sequence
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Lun 2.º En 2023 - Evans Crown | |||||||
Googolplex Crag | |||||||
20 | ★ Field Commander Jagusch | 25m, 5 | |||||
21 | Bilbo Baggins Direct Start | 10m, 3 | |||||
20 | ★★ Rene's Ethical Neutrality | 25m, 6 | |||||
20 | ★ Field Commander Jagusch | 25m, 5 | |||||
19 | ★★ Saddam's Black Heart | 25m | |||||
20 | ★★ Mr Bubbles | 25m, 5 | |||||
Mié 28.º Dic 2022 - Evans Crown | |||||||
Googolplex Crag | |||||||
19 | ★★ Saddam's Black Heart - con Hayden L | 25m | ★★ Muy buena | ||||
Lun 26.º Dic 2022 - Evans Crown | |||||||
Googolplex Crag | |||||||
20 | ★★ Rene's Ethical Neutrality | 25m, 6 | |||||
20 | ★ Field Commander Jagusch | 25m, 5 | |||||
20 | ★★ Mr Bubbles | 25m, 5 | |||||
19 | ★★ Saddam's Black Heart | 25m | |||||
Dom 6.º Nov 2022 - Evans Crown | |||||||
Deckout Buttress | |||||||
17 | ★ Space Invaders | 20m, 4 | ★★ Muy buena | ||||
Another mis-identified route put to rights.
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19 | ★ Greenies' Delight | 15m, 5 | Medio | ||||
Surprised Jeff cruised what looked like a forest of lichen, and perhaps even more that I flash followed.
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19 | ★★ Bloodbath | 15m, 4 | ★ Buena | ||||
Old Slabbers Afternoon with Jeff (leading) and Gayle Boyton, and Rod Kotkis, ably observed by A. Jones of Jonestown (the route), who opined that many routes were not in fact soloed on the FA "because you would die". But who's to disprove that this was an impediment to 19 year old slab specialists? Such as he who reliably informed me he soloed The Fear at North Head back in the day?
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18 | ★ Madonnas | 15m | ★ Buena | ||||
Turns out this is what I've been doing, not other routes, according to the authoritative Old Slabbers, so there we go.
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Dom 16.º Oct 2022 - Evans Crown | |||||||
Crown Buttress | |||||||
19 | ★ Bad to the Bone | 20m, 6 | ★ Buena | ||||
Not a 21 slab - no harder than many on Deckout.
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19 | ★ Bad to the Bone | 20m, 6 | ★ Buena | ||||
15 ~16 | ★ Dyke | 20m, 3 | ★ Buena | ||||
15 ~16 | ★ Dyke | 20m, 3 | ★ Buena | ||||
16 ~15 | ★ Psyke | 20m, 5 | ★ Buena | ||||
16 ~15 | ★ Psyke | 20m, 5 | ★ Buena | ||||
Mar 4.º Oct 2022 - Evans Crown | |||||||
Deckout Buttress | |||||||
17 | ★ Space Invaders - con Hayden L | 20m, 4 | |||||
18 | ★ Splat - con Hayden L | 15m | |||||
Dom 2.º Oct 2022 - Evans Crown | |||||||
Crown Buttress | |||||||
17 | ★★ Up the Nose of Love - con Amanda Vipond | 35m, 7 |