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The Cereals Buttress Sobre todo Escalada clásica 23 vías en sector

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Restricciones heredado de Australian Capital Territory

If you have benefited from climbing access and infrastructure in the ACT, please consider joining the Canberra Climbing Association (CCA). The CCA spends considerable behind-the-scenes time and effort managing access for the climbing community to ACT climbing areas.

Membership is inexpensive and provides a great way to keep up-to-date with access issues, codes of conduct and general goings on in the ACT climbing community. Membership also provides discounts for local outdoor retail and climbing gyms.

For CCA details visit: http://www.canberraclimbing.org.au/

Acceso

From Simple Simon Slabs, walk downhill for 25m, then trend diagonally left and downhill for another 30m, with boulders blocking your way on the downhill side. When the boulders run out turn sharply right and head downhill for 20m, with a wall of boulders on your right, to a burnout stump. (If you keep following the wall of boulders you will reach the back of the Cereals Buttress, from where you can pass through a passageway to reach 'Bran Buds' and 'The Tin Drum'). Head left through the gap between the boulders, then follow the hand line down a choss-covered slab. When you step off the slab, 'Julius Caesar' is on your right. Directly ahead of you, a gap leads through to 'The Cereals Buttress' proper.

©

Descenso

To descend from Snap, Crackle & Pop, abseil from the tree (or continue up the offwidth to the top, and rap off rings as for Bran Buds). Other boulders have rap rings or you can walk off.

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Ética heredado de The Cloisters

Although these days there are a number of excellent sport climbs, the original ascentionists were staunchly traditional, having this to say:

"We, as discoverers and first ascensionists, have not and will not tolerate the use of bolts, pegs, shady aid or chalk. Attempt to use any of these and be prepared to answer to us. We have respected the natural state of the area and expect that you will also."

©

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Algunos contenidos se han facilitado bajo la licencia de: © Canberra Climbers' Association (CC BY-SA) © ANU Moutaineering Club (Creative Commons Attribution-Share Alike)

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Vías

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1
16 Lost Baggage Clásica 8m

Back and down from the 'Rattling Knackers Rock' a chossy slab runs downhill on the left of a wall (see map) on which this and following climbs can be found.

Forgettable. Start right of 'Quicksilver'. Up the mossy crack to a break, then up to the top. Rap off the branch.

PA: Phil Georgeff & Dee Breger, 1988

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2
17 ★ Bran Buds Clásica 10m

Rough on the hands. The 'Crackle' crack, but on the other side of the boulder.

PA: Norm Booth, John Smart & Ray Lassman, 1978

3
19 ★ The Tin Drum Clásica mixta 8m, 1

Start on the pinnacle about five metres right of 'Bran Buds', through the passageway. Up the slabby wall past a bolt to a bolt belay.

PA: Mike Peck, Ken Luck & Adam Blizzard, 1988

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4
20 ★ Quicksilver Clásica 5m

The little line on the right of the descent slab. Very short and overhanging.

PA: John Smart & Norm Booth, 1978

5
22 ★★★ Julius Caesar Clásica 20m

Starting just below the chossy approach slab is an overhanging crack. A superb climb with great hand jams, fingerlocks, laybacks, fist jams and a spot of off-widthing. Rap off the back.

PA: John Smart, Norm Booth, Ray Lassman & Humzoo, 1978

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6
Project Chris Warner (open) DeportivaProyecto 18m, 8

The bolted arete directly below the chossy approach slab and opposite Julius Caesar. Very delicate arete climbing on bolts to chain

'Walking Dead' and 'Zoo Fear' are on the same boulder and left of 'Project Chris'. They can also be approached by passing through the gap left of 'Julius Caeser' and circling the boulder anti-clockwise.

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18 ★ Walking Dead Clásica 20m

The same crack as 'Concrete Coffin' on the other side of the boulder, now off-width.

PA: Ian 'Humzoo' Thomas, 1978

9
24 ★★ Zoo Fear Deportiva 18m, 6

A superb sharp arete. Dave was anxious to avoid the original developers (Hum'zoo) of the area - hence the name. The arete at the bottom of the 'Concrete Coffin' boulder with six bolts and a double bolt lower-off. Rebolted 2013.

PA: Dave McGregor & Matt Madin, 1986

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10
13 Concrete Coffin Clásica 20m

The chimney on the left through the gap between the walls. Aptly named and possibly the worst sandbag in the guide.

PA: Ray Lassman, Humzoo & Norm Booth, 1978

11
18 ★ Sugar Frosty Clásica 10m

Start just to your right as you exit the gap at the bottom of the chossy approach slab (six metres right of 'Crackle') next to a dilapidated eagle's nest. Easily up the chimney to a ledge and then up the crack to join 'Snap, 'Crackle' and 'Pop'.

PA: John Smart, Rohan Reynolds, Hugh Ward, Norm Booth & Ray Lassman, 1978

12
18 Pop Clásica 10m

Deceptive and technical, but it joins 'Crackle'. The right line.

PA: Ray Lassman, Norm Booth & John Smart, 1978

13
9 Crackle Clásica 10m

The first and worst climb done at 'The Cloisters'. Up the middle crack.

PA: John Smart, Norm Booth & Ray Lassman, 1978

14
11 ★ Snap Clásica 10m

Pleasant easy climbing. The left crack on the buttress.

PA: Norm Booth, Ray Lassman & John Smart, 1978

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15
22 ★★ The Swinging Detective Clásica mixta 20m, 2

A curious helical climb on the 'Tin Drum' pinnacle, west of the 'Cereals Buttress'. Start in a gully right and downhill from 'Bran Buds'. Climb the arete past a bolt to a crack. Swing left into this and up to another bolt. Move right onto the slab and up to the top and a weird ring bolt belay.

PA: Mike Peck, 1988

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16
23 ★★ Olympus 9mm Deportiva 25m, 8

Start 10m uphill and left from Crackle on a blunt boulder with a mossy streak down the front. Up the flake and blunt arete to half height, then diagonally right and up the scoop. DBB on top.

PA: Oliver Story & Daniel Gordon, 2013

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22 ★★ Kodachrome 25 Deportiva 25m, 7

Start as for 'Olympus 9mm', going straight up past seven bolts (for the original experience, head left at the fifth bolt into the groove). DBB as for 'Olympus 9mm'.

PA: Matt Madin & Bill Begg, 1987

18
24 Slide Show Clásica 10m

On the 'Gazelle Boy' boulder. The very thin crack system on the slabby wall of the gully left of 'Kodachrome 25'. Double bolt belay.

PA: Dave McGregor & Matt Madin, 1995

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22 Gazelle Boy Clásica 12m

Technical and exciting. On the boulder left of 'Kodachrome 25' (20m left of Crackle) is this thin crack to the left of a diagonal off-width.

PA: John Smart, Ray Lassman, Humzoo & Norm Booth, 1978

20
14 ★ Cosmic Connection Clásica 12m

The corner left of 'Gazelle Boy'. Starting up blocks, go up to a crack in the wall.

PA: Humzoo, John Smart & Ray Lassman, 1978

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21
22 Troubador Clásica 10m

Opposite 'Gazelle Boy' and down the slope is a boulder with an expanding crack, initially very thin.

PA: John Smart, 1978

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22
19 Friendly Persuasion Clásica 8m

About 20 metres left of 'Cosmic Connection' is a crack with a blank, mossy start. Use gear in 'Friendly Persuasion Indirect' to protect the start.

PA: Ray Lassman, John Smart & Humzoo, 1978

23
16 Friendly Persuasion Indirect Clásica 10m

Worthwhile. Up the left-hand crack until it peters out, then step right into 'Friendly Persuation'. Also very mossy now.

PA: John Smart & Ray Lassman, 1978

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24
16 Just A Steal Clásica 10m

Further northwest, on the path back to 'The Belfry', just before it goes between two boulders, is a relatively easy off-width on the left.

PA: John Smart, Humzoo & Ray Lassman, 1978

¿Lo sabías?

¿Sabías que puedes crear una cuenta para registrar, monitorizar y compartir tus ascensiones? Hay miles de escaladores y escaladoras que lo hacen.

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22 ★★★ Julius Caesar

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Jamie Valdivia en ★★ Kodachrome 25 22 - Jamie blasts past the already clipped first bolt from his previous attempt

Mar 13 Jun
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