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The Cereals Buttress Principalement Escalade traditionnelle 23 voies en secteur

  • Contexte de la cotation : AU
  • Photos : 2
  • Ascensions : 108
23
AU
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Limit. de l'accès hérité de Australian Capital Territory

If you have benefited from climbing access and infrastructure in the ACT, please consider joining the Canberra Climbing Association (CCA). The CCA spends considerable behind-the-scenes time and effort managing access for the climbing community to ACT climbing areas.

Membership is inexpensive and provides a great way to keep up-to-date with access issues, codes of conduct and general goings on in the ACT climbing community. Membership also provides discounts for local outdoor retail and climbing gyms.

For CCA details visit: http://www.canberraclimbing.org.au/

Approche

From Simple Simon Slabs, walk downhill for 25m, then trend diagonally left and downhill for another 30m, with boulders blocking your way on the downhill side. When the boulders run out turn sharply right and head downhill for 20m, with a wall of boulders on your right, to a burnout stump. (If you keep following the wall of boulders you will reach the back of the Cereals Buttress, from where you can pass through a passageway to reach 'Bran Buds' and 'The Tin Drum'). Head left through the gap between the boulders, then follow the hand line down a choss-covered slab. When you step off the slab, 'Julius Caesar' is on your right. Directly ahead of you, a gap leads through to 'The Cereals Buttress' proper.

©

Descente

To descend from Snap, Crackle & Pop, abseil from the tree (or continue up the offwidth to the top, and rap off rings as for Bran Buds). Other boulders have rap rings or you can walk off.

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Éthique hérité de The Cloisters

Although these days there are a number of excellent sport climbs, the original ascentionists were staunchly traditional, having this to say:

"We, as discoverers and first ascensionists, have not and will not tolerate the use of bolts, pegs, shady aid or chalk. Attempt to use any of these and be prepared to answer to us. We have respected the natural state of the area and expect that you will also."

©

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Certains contenus ont été fournis sous licence de : © ANU Moutaineering Club (Creative Commons Attribution-Share Alike) © Canberra Climbers' Association (CC BY-SA)

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Voies

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1
16 Lost Baggage Trad 8m

Forgettable. On the uphill side of the boulder to the left of the tree with a rope tied around it. Rap off the branch.

FA: Phil Georgeff & Dee Breger, 1988

Cacher
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2
17 ★ Bran Buds Trad 10m

Rough on the hands. The crack in the passageway on the uphill side of the 'Crackle' boulder (see approach description).

FA: Norm Booth, John Smart & Ray Lassman, 1978

3
19 ★ The Tin Drum Trad mixte 8m, 1

Start on the pinnacle about five metres right of 'Bran Buds', through the passageway. Up the slabby wall past a bolt to a bolt belay.

FA: Mike Peck, Ken Luck & Adam Blizzard, 1988

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4
20 ★ Quicksilver Trad 5m

The little line on the uppermost boulder next to the chossy approach slab. Very short and overhanging. Rap off the branch as for 'Lost Baggage'.

FA: John Smart & Norm Booth, 1978

5
22 ★★★ Julius Caesar Trad 20m

Starting just below the chossy approach slab is an overhanging crack. A superb climb with great hand jams, fingerlocks, laybacks, fist jams and a spot of off-widthing. Rap off the back.

FA: John Smart, Norm Booth, Ray Lassman & Humzoo, 1978

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6
Project Chris Warner (open) SportiveProjet 18m, 8

The bolted arete directly below the chossy approach slab and opposite Julius Caesar. Very delicate arete climbing on bolts to chain

'Walking Dead' and 'Zoo Fear' are on the same boulder and left of 'Project Chris'. They can also be approached by passing through the gap left of 'Julius Caeser' and circling the boulder anti-clockwise.

8
18 ★ Walking Dead Trad 20m

10m left of 'Project Chris' is an off-width crack (the same crack as 'Concrete Coffin' on the other side of the boulder). Double bolt belay. To descend scramble along the boulders and rap as for 'Julius Caesar'.

FA: Ian 'Humzoo' Thomas, 1978

9
24 ★★ Zoo Fear Sportive 18m, 6

A superb sharp arete. Dave was anxious to avoid the original developers (Hum'zoo) of the area - hence the name. The arete 10m left of 'Walking Dead' (or 15m right of 'Concrete Coffin' and around the corner). Six bolts to lower-offs. Rebolted 2013.

FA: Dave McGregor & Matt Madin, 1986

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10
13 Concrete Coffin Trad 20m

The chimney on the left, as you pass through the gap at the bottom of the chossy approach slab. Aptly named and possibly the worst sandbag in the guide. Double bolt belay. To descend scramble along the boulders and rap as for 'Julius Caesar'.

FA: Ray Lassman, Humzoo & Norm Booth, 1978

11
18 ★ Sugar Frosty Trad 10m

Start just to your right as you exit the gap at the bottom of the chossy approach slab (six metres right of 'Crackle') next to a dilapidated eagle's nest. Easily up the chimney to a ledge and then up the crack to join 'Snap, 'Crackle' and 'Pop'.

FA: John Smart, Rohan Reynolds, Hugh Ward, Norm Booth & Ray Lassman, 1978

12
18 Pop Trad 10m

The right crack on the nose of the buttress. Deceptive and technical start then join 'Crackle'.

FA: Ray Lassman, Norm Booth & John Smart, 1978

13
9 Crackle Trad 10m

The first and worst climb done at 'The Cloisters'. Up the middle crack.

FA: John Smart, Norm Booth & Ray Lassman, 1978

14
11 ★ Snap Trad 10m

Pleasant easy climbing. The left crack on the buttress.

FA: Norm Booth, Ray Lassman & John Smart, 1978

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15
22 ★★ The Swinging Detective Trad mixte 20m, 2

A curious helical climb on the 'Tin Drum' pinnacle, west of the 'Cereals Buttress'. Start in a chimney right of 'Bran Buds' (or, on the downhill side, left of Snap). Climb the arete past a bolt to a crack. Swing left into this and up to another bolt. Move right onto the slab and up to double ring bolt belay.

FA: Mike Peck, 1988

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16
23 ★★ Olympus 9mm Sportive 25m, 8

Start 10m uphill and left from Crackle on a blunt boulder with a mossy streak down the front. Up the flake and blunt arete to half height, then diagonally right and up the scoop. DBB on top.

FA: Oliver Story & Daniel Gordon, 2013

17
22 ★★ Kodachrome 25 Sportive 25m, 7

Start as for 'Olympus 9mm', going straight up past seven bolts (for the original experience, head left at the fifth bolt into the groove). DBB as for 'Olympus 9mm'.

FA: Matt Madin & Bill Begg, 1987

18
24 Slide Show Trad 10m

The very thin crack system in the gully left of 'Kodachrome 25', on the same boulder as 'Gazelle Boy'. DBB. May require brushing before a repeat.

FA: Dave McGregor & Matt Madin, 1995

19
22 Gazelle Boy Trad 12m

Technical and exciting. On the boulder left of 'Kodachrome 25' (20m left of Crackle) is this thin crack to the left of a diagonal off-width.

FA: John Smart, Ray Lassman, Humzoo & Norm Booth, 1978

20
14 ★ Cosmic Connection Trad 12m

The corner left of 'Gazelle Boy'. Up blocks to a crack in the wall.

FA: Humzoo, John Smart & Ray Lassman, 1978

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21
22 Troubador Trad 10m

Opposite 'Gazelle Boy' and down the slope is a boulder with an expanding crack on the downhill side, initially very thin.

FA: John Smart, 1978

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22
19 Friendly Persuasion Trad 8m

About 20 metres left of 'Cosmic Connection' is a crack with a blank, mossy start. Use gear in 'Friendly Persuasion Indirect' to protect the start.

FA: Ray Lassman, John Smart & Humzoo, 1978

23
16 Friendly Persuasion Indirect Trad 10m

Worthwhile. Up the left-hand crack until it peters out, then step right into 'Friendly Persuation'. Also very mossy now.

FA: John Smart & Ray Lassman, 1978

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24
16 Just A Steal Trad 10m

A relatively easy, clean offwidth. Start: From 'Gazelle Boy' walk left (northwest) along the contour on a vague cairned track for about 40m. The track passes downhill of most of the boulders then goes uphill. Just after you turn uphill, on your right is a gap between two boulders. Just A Steal is on the uphill side of the gap.

FA: John Smart, Humzoo & Ray Lassman, 1978

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22 ★★★ Julius Caesar

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Jamie Valdivia dans ★★ Kodachrome 25 22 - Jamie blasts past the already clipped first bolt from his previous attempt

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