Vías en Sunshine Coast

Not a sit start. Left hand start on knobby looking rock with white dot on it. Right hand start on shared sloper with bush turkz. Left hand side wall is out. Go straight up and top out.

Start on jug and slap to victory. The hand you throw with determines if you are John's or AJ's mate.

Still needs cleaned stay off for now.

Adds a little more pumpy madness to the classic Madder.

Climb Hang Like a Fruitbat to anchor, but don't clip it. Instead head sharply left until you join into Beer Boob and finish. Have fun on the crazy upside down traverse.

Traverse out right and diagonally up the engaging slab to the base of overhung arête. Up, with some bouldery, and then balancy moves on amazing scoopy rock features. Mind-blower!

You'd have to be bored to climb this one.

Start: Start at back of chimney.

Marked 'CC'. Hard for the grade. Under-protected up a thin crack line to a ledge. From the ledge, climb crack system to top. A confident leader is required.

Left hand finish to Birds of Prey. Spicy boulder problem in the sky, keep the bolts at your chest then clip anchors at your waist for full value. Pack your pads.

Stand start bottom right hand corner and then move left. Some cool moves. Also the downclimb.

The best route of the wall! Really nice technical and balancy moves up to belay under roof. If you want to climb further, go for it! The extension is an open project!

Climb the waterspout on thin barbwire-like holds and small feet. Really enjoyable climbing. The second bolt can be hard to clip!

Left leaning laybacks

Sit start 1m left of SCS. Layback right using the obvious (and often wet) crack. Easy top out.

Tends to seep.

Climbs the right hand face of the freestanding bloc.

Start at the sit start for Down to a Sunless Sea then traverse low around the boulder and finish as for Bury me at Slider.

Sit start on crimps. Directly up to crimps over bulge then bust out left before committing throw to same finish as Blockaholic.

B4 in Dazza's guide. Spotters recommended.

Sit start, up to the undercling then mantle.

Sit start at the bottom of the spaceship then follow the blade up to top out at the highest point. Seriously cool feature.

Sit start on big jug on left side of boulder. Make your way up to top out next to the tree.

Sit start on jug traverse right to small arete and then head up.

Sit start on the sloping ledge. Traverse left to gain the big ledge.

Sit start in gap, using slopey rail, mantle and gain the large undercling crimp and cool calm and collectedly launch for the lip…

Sit start with the undercling horn. Work way directly up from there sidewalls are in. Top out finish.

Beautiful sweeping line up a thin seam. Technical and reachy.

Be alert but not alarmed.

Climb the wall and corner, overcome the bulge then trend R to ST's p1 belay. Abseil or finish up p2 of ST. Double U bolt belay on the ledge.

Start: Start 5m R of G.O.S. and 5m L of 'String Theory'.

Start 3m left of '2,4,5-T'. Hard moves (crux) to the first bolt, then easy to final roof. Climb through roof direct.

Probably not good. The crack downhill from the big tree on the descent ramp and below the boulder. Tree belay well back.

Stays in shade most of the day.

Start: Traverse Boulder. Don't use the block on the left, and top out.

Delicately ascend through the large easy vegetated gully. Use long slings to reduce drag for 2nd half or break the whole climb into 2 pitches. Traverse right at the easy ground for 4 meters to the obvious crack. Plug in your gear and enjoy pro until about 3 meters from the top where you break left to easier ground. Tree belay. Easy walk to Katana. Very loose large stuff at top-out.

1. 25m (21) Starts high on the ledge L of arete. Stick clip 1st FH. Following the 3 FHs, trend right and up the arete. More FHs and face moves bring you to a hanging belay R of roof.

2. 25m (17) Up corner crack for a few meters and then step out L on face to gain arete. Up past 6 FHs to small belay ledge.

3. 25m (15) Up arete and face moves. 4 FHs to belay ledge.

Descent: 3 raps to ground. A 60m rope just barely gains the ledge on last rap. There is a FH with a mallion at the belay to get back down to the track.

Climbs the beginning of "Frequent High Flyers" and joins "The Green Hazy Cloud" at halfway.

Starts in the first clearing around the corner from the main wall. Follow the right-hand side of the pillar on the left, on occasionally suspect holds, until you reach a ledge at the base of a clean slab. Techy moves up this, including a big step right, before choose-your-own-adventure (either straight up or back left) for the last two bolts to DBB. More like 45 m if you start from the bottom proper.

nice move over the bulge and cruisy.

This modern traverse into Cave 4 is now bolted (2), making the massive exposure a tad saner. Anchors at the lip of Cave 4.

From Cave 3, scramble down the rock apron, then left to the dirt ledge with small trees on, from here, step up to high first bolt:

★★ Modern Traverse to Cave 4 5 - 2 clips on the traverse

then down, out on ledges, to 2nd clip, continue around the arete, on smaller ledges & massive exposure, till the anchor (and sanity) is reached at the lip of Cave 4:

★★ Modern Traverse to Cave 4 5 - Anchors in Cave 4

Line of FH's up the sloping gully just L of UR2.

Start at left of ledge. Scramble up in front of tree, then continue up top section of Mountie Hunter. Might be a good beginner lead.

Sit start with both hands on the right-hand side pull in the crack. Head straight up.

A traverse spanning the entire Andromeda main wall, as well as Legends Wall. Starts and ends on the ground, so it can be climbed from right to left, or left to right. Can be done in a single pitch with an 80m rope if you manage the clips well (so as to avoid unnecessary wandering of the rope, and rope drag). Alternatively, it can be split into two pitches (e.g. belay at Worm Hole’s anchors). As it is a traverse, take special care whether leading or seconding, as a fall could result in a body scraping pendulum. The climb uses 26 bolts from various climbs. Some clips should be extended with slings. To avoid the wrath of other climbing parties, reserve this climb for a quiet weekday with no one else at the crag.

The first ascent was climbed right to left, starting at Absolute Zero, as follows:

1st bolt of Absolute Zero – extended with a 60cm sling 2nd bolt of Graviton 3rd bolt of Mars – extended with a 60cm sling 3rd bolt of Horse Head Nebula 4th bolt of Alien Encounter Anchor bolt of Asteroid Belt - extended with a 120cm sling Anchor bolt of Solar Eclipse 4th bolt of Gravitational Equilibrium 4th bolt of Interstellar Journey - extended with a 60cm sling 4th bolt of Southern Cross - extended with a 120cm sling 5th bolt of Worm Hole - extended with a 60cm sling (Can belay off anchors if climbing in two pitches) 2nd bolt of Coal Sack 4th bolt of More Dark Matter - extended with a 60cm sling 4th bolt of Lunar Eclipse 4th bolt of Event Horizon Anchor bolt of Star Dust - extended with a 60cm sling Anchor bolt of Nebula Anchor bolt of Orbital Tether - extended with a 60cm sling Anchor bolt of Black Hole - extended with a 120cm sling 4th bolt of Dugglebutt And The Bus Of Awesome - extended with a 60cm sling 3rd bolt of TJ Rothschild - extended with a 60cm sling 4th bolt of Mr. Rowland And The 100 weeks Of Awesome - extended with a 60cm sling 4th bolt of The Spitz Roy Massif 3rd bolt of Join The ACAQ And Become A Legend - extended with a 60cm sling 2nd bolt of Old Gramps Reeve And His Bodacious Babe 1st bolt of Do Not Shit In The Woods At High Traffic Crags, then back to the ground.

Up the blank slab, will need some cleaning up.

Sit start far left of boulder, Slap up the overhung face to mantle.

Nattanas

Squat/sit start with left hand on crimp, right hand on sloper on arete. Straight up with slightly technical climbing. Try not to dab on the tree stump to the left and boulder to the right.

Start Main Squeeze then traverse right finishing up Protection Shoe.

Sit start as per Tree Knob matched on the juggy crimp rail on the Rh side of the arete. Up and around then into Saddle Club, traverse past Memento Mori and finish up The Crabalyst.

Sit start in the hollow underneath the boulder with right hand on the prominent undercling and left on the very average side-pull using feet on the left (don't dab on the supporting boulder). Short sequence of powerful moves on terrible holds to gain 'jugs' for an awkward mantle over lip.

Fantastic set of moves that add up to maybe 1m of climbing.

Sit start matched on the undercling. Move up, taking your time to set your soggy knuckle well before gaining the jugs to a slightly cramped mantle.

Start on the cut-out in the arete, then head right using crimps. If your left hand grabs a jug about 1ft from the arete and 1ft from the top of the boulder, you have gone off path.

Link Up - Climb Voluptuous then at the last bolt head Left into the savage headwall of Dagda.

Starts up easily from ledge for 2 bolts before moving right onto the face. Take a step right at the overhang and up the finger crack to a steep topout and chains on boulder above. Terry insists everyone mantles the very top 'egg' boulder and stands on top victoriously for the full ascent!

Up arête to thin crack. Follow the crack as it widens up a mini-corner to a tree belay. (Safety note: we've been told this tree is now very dodgy - take care!)

Start: Starts 1m L of CH on the arête.

1m left of Surface Complexity. A technical adventure with some of the thinnest holds on the face. Save some toe strength to clip the anchor.

To access "Snake Ledge" via this route traverse right into Surface Complexity clipping it's last two bolts to U-Bolt anchor.

Fun, pumpy, punchy climbing on great rock up the short steep wall.

Stand from rail, trending left

Scramble up rough terrain at far right of cliff. Probably shares top with chossmaster. Soloed, 2012

Start with both hands in the left side of the big crack. Work your way to the right. Climb up the sandy spine to finish matched on jug.

Left of End Result straight up through where the elimanite finishes.

Sit start around the left hand side of the Bare block climbing straight up and slightly to the right not going across to the arete. Top out through slabby face onto good ledge. Climb back down bare to exit.

Sit start with both hands on big shelf rail. Use all manner of trickery to get both hands on the jug. Back wall is out.

start both hands on far right of ledge, move left then go up. don't use root on ledge, tree and boulder on far left are off limits

Potential for an ultra long route, climbing through ~10m of horizontal roof. Start on the obvious jugs at the very back right of the cave and work your way through the ceiling until you emerge into the sunlight.

First three moves have been strung together (21 April) but after that who knows if it’s even a thing. One thing is for sure though, if it goes it will be hard!

sloping crimps with poor feet.

Start on the large left side-pull then use your right hand on the ? to ? and then mantle. Might be really hard or impossible.

Sit start. Hands and feet on the textured arête, side walls are out!! . Straight up and top out. Watch the middle holds as they are quite sharp.

Stand using two lip holds and throw up left.

start same as Route of Evil then transfer into the finger crack across the bare roof then mantle the nose.

Toprope the wall in between 2 sport routes, Fool's Errand & Heinzenator, from the Fool's Errand anchor.

Exciting variant finish to 'Pre-Flight Departure' or 'Hobo Erectus'. Go R.under roof and up arete. U-bolts.

The vertical crackline 1m R of LB.

Very little to recommend this climb.

Start: Start in middle of chimney

Marked 'GC'. Hard for the grade. A bold and somewhat under-protected crack climb. This thin subtle corner requires confident crack work. Similar to 'Cantankerous Cantelope'.

Has an anchor. Probably unclimbable.

The best route of the wall! Really nice technical and balancy moves up to belay under roof. If you want to climb further, go for it! The extension is an open project!

Sit start just right of white patch of rock.

Tends to seep.

Sit start 2m left of Drip. Trend up right. Reachy moves to the top out.

Tends to seep.

Climbs the broad crack separating the freestanding bloc from the right side of the wall.

The arete as the track rounds the bend. Gets a bit dirty up high

Sit start in the same place as Down to a Sunless Sea. Go left into the big vertical crack and then up. Boulders below are out.

Sit start 2/3 metres to the left of Red Tide. Traverse using the holds in the roof to finish in large horizontal break 2 metres right of Red Tide.

Sit start at the off-width crack, grunt your way up and out.

Compress up the overhung fridge to top out

Sit start using the crack and right hand side pull. Work straight up the prominent seam to mantle top out.

Sit start as for Swiss 🧀. Traverse right and link into 🥜 Pebble.

Start as for jump slab and follow until the undercling crimps, then keep going right with decent feet, pop for the top. Really fun footwork.