Vie in Sunshine Coast

Tiny outcrop of rock on the left, easily walked past when approaching the boulders 'proper'. Sit start, balancy rock left to the crack and up. Surprisingly good for the size of the bloc.

Grass top, lots of juggy ledges (I say lots, but just for the length of the route, maybe 4?). Found on the first small outcrop left of sanditos.

Straight up the pillar using all the holds. Descend on the left.

As for Sanditos, but straight up the middle without using the big holds on the left or the obvious big footholds on the bottom and right.

Starting from the low right ledge with hands on the large shelf, 1 easy move left to gain the face wall, exclude all but the first right hand decent foot, straight up the face without the large left hand or the right arete. thin but it's all there. Eliminate problem.

A contrived line, more like 2 separate problems. Be very careful of a fall on this top section. Some of the top of the boulder up high is a bit loose. Up the obvious crack left of Slip, Slop, Slap then traverse around to the right of the boulder directly above and climb the small crack feature.

Start with hands beneath obvious overlap, no left or bottom footholds. Slap up the arete and mantle out.

Sit start Slip, Slop, Slap then move right following the obvious line topping out on Salt in the wound.

Sit start to the left of the obvious crack. Using side pull and large pinch hang for 2 seconds and then up to big jug above your head, exiting to the right at the highest point.

The off-width crack/ body chimney, try your best to only use the crack (almost impossible!). Too many features to avoid.

Traverse right from good holds on left of overhanging wall, staying below the top rail until the steep arete, mantle out. Stand start.

Extension traverse of High Tide around the arete to finish the top out of But I'm holding on.

Sit start on undercling, round the corner from 'The tide is high'. Sit start, up and mantle.

Sit start, use some obvious sidepulls and a high foot placement to reach an obvious jug over your head, descend by dropping down left and walking back around to the right

Sit start with hands in undercling. Make your way up and top out.

Start with both hands jammed in the crack. Move up and through the jugs to easy topout.

Sit start matched on the undercling. Move up, taking your time to set your soggy knuckle well before gaining the jugs to a slightly cramped mantle.

start L hand sloper, R hand rail. Go straight up to top out

Start beneath the obvious holds on the right side of lip. Grasp for one of the tiny crimp rails and find a way to mantle up over the edge to top out the slab. Don't use the Cheese Wedge or venture right too far into easy territory

Start as for Smooth and Creamy on left side of the face before working straight up. Delicate footwork for an easy slab.

Start as low as you can on the left side, testing the water temp with your toes. Pull on to left arete and the low right sidepull before working your way up and across to the right in a balancy traverse without using the top edge. Top out on the far right as for I Camembert It.

With the water below there isn't really an option for laying down pads so a foot slip will likely see you take a splash.

Starting off the pile of stones on the right side of the face trust your feet and search for the jugs, topping out at highest corner.

Step off the big stone around the corner to the right to access easy line up the end of the wedge.

Sit start in the hollow underneath the boulder with right hand on the prominent undercling and left on the very average side-pull using feet on the left (don't dab on the supporting boulder). Short sequence of powerful moves on terrible holds to gain 'jugs' for an awkward mantle over lip.

Fantastic set of moves that add up to maybe 1m of climbing.

Moves as for Beneath the Barrel but starting slightly higher with hands matched on the crimp rail above the lip. Still almost a sit start but cuts out the first two slaps leaving you to enjoy the blind throw for the jug and the mantle.

Stand start with hands on slopers furthest right, slap up and mantle.

Oliver Rickford

Stant start Rh sloper, Lh on rail, pull up and mantle.

Oliver Rickford

Stand start off the rock matched on the obvious jugs centre wall. Breaking out left with high heel rock over to gain ledge then top out.

Please be careful, a fall here could be quite nasty!

Stand start off the rock as per Flash or Splash but instead head up and right through obvious line to top out.

Not sure whether a harder sit start may be possible in drier conditions.

Start with hands on the flat ledge. Move right to layback/grunt the giant flake to bring yourself around to top out on the pedestal at mid height. V0 downclimb on the right slab. Bring your big guns, or big brain, for this one.

Low start on the jugs at the back of the hand crack. Jam or layback your way out and up to the top of the pedestal. Descend as for Gun Flayer, down the V0 slab on the right.

Sit start matched on large slopy jug, shoot to the top

Stand stant with wide compression, tick tak to victory.

Sit start Rh Meat wrap, Lh on mini jug.

Sit start with both hands in underclings. Go up.

Sit start on large jug, pull up your feet and shoot for the lip then mantle.

Oliver Rickford

Whale Wash but start matched low on the rail.

Oliver Rickford

Start far right as per Spider Spook. Traverse left into Whale Wash mantle.

Oliver Rickford

Sit start with Rh on crimp, Lh sloper. Move up.

Sit start Rh crimp out wide, Lh on arete. Hit the lip and mantle.

Squat/stand R pinch and L sidepull under wave feature. Move your way up the arête. It goes without saying that chockstones are out. Try not to dab on Hazza's Hangout Boulder.

Oliver Rickford

Sit start with underclings then move into Boggin' Noggin'

Sit start right side of boulder, move up and traverse left to boulders a nice mantle.

Sit start in the middle of the boulder. Rh on side pull, Lh on small crimp, shoot to the top.

Oliver Rickford

Sit start on big jug on left side of boulder. Make your way up to top out next to the tree.

Stand start on crimps in middle of wall. Go up.

Start with left hand on undercling and right hand on right arete. Work your way up the spine feature.

Stand start using crack/ edge, moving up and onto the rounded arete. Climb onto low angle slab to finish.

Low traverse starting at the far left side of the shelf, moving right to join Pips and Pebbles for top out.

Sit start using the crack and right hand side pull. Work straight up the prominent seam to mantle top out.

One move wonder - sit start on average crimps, bumping to jug before topping out. Resist the temptation to move right around the corner for the mantle.

Easy mantle practice

Balancy start using lower portion of right hand arete and left hand sidepull. Surprisingly tricky topout mantle into the lantana.

Start on the bookmatched underclings in the middle of the block pressing in to high left foot. Mantle top out after balancy move using unlikely pinch.

Big scary and terrifyingly intimidating piece of rock buried in the lantana. There appear to be enough holds up the face for someone incredibly bold with strong fingers and good footwork.

Open project for anyone who likes that sort of thing and doesn't mind lugging in 15 crash pads to protect the landing.

Sit/low start hands on angled edge. One big move to the high ledge and away.

Sit/low start on sloping edge on the overhanging arete. Crimp then smash the top for a finishing mantle. Summon the force for inspiration.

Possible big classic line climbing out of the left side of the cave to the overhung arete, or even cleaning up the mossy headwall for a highball finish. Its big and needs lots of mats. Thinking V6-9.

Potential for an ultra long route, climbing through ~10m of horizontal roof. Start on the obvious jugs at the very back right of the cave and work your way through the ceiling until you emerge into the sunlight.

First three moves have been strung together (21 April) but after that who knows if it’s even a thing. One thing is for sure though, if it goes it will be hard!

Great climb up overhung arete at L end of pillar. Four UBs and lower-off.

Start 2m R of 'Terracotta Warrior' at ground level. Up slab, pull over small roof and have fun in scoop. 5 UBs. Shares 1st UB and lower-off with 'Go the Dog'.

Start as for 'Gutter Ball'. After 1st UB tend R then continue straight up. 5 UBs. Shares 1st UB and lower-off with 'Gutter Ball'.

Start at R end of pillar. More easy fun climbing. 4 UBs and lower-off.

Follow easy corner to arete then crux to anchors.

Up small features to rest then up to balancey bulge, over to anchor.

Up small crack balancy crux, good moves.

Follow crack up to gain a rest then move to balancey finish, stick clip first bolt if needed.

Gain small ledge for first bolt, find better feet and get second bolt, climb rails to crux, over lip to anchors. Stick clip first bolt if needed.

Up crack, tend right around bulge then left to anchors. Watch for rope rub on the way down. Shares anchors with Rail Mc Railface

Start at bottom boulder (stick clip first bolt if needed). Crux to gain ledge and follow jugs to the top!

Stand start with hands vertically aligned on two jugs. One long move to high right hand jug and then follow the green streak up. Top is a little chossy.

Climb boulder in the grotto to get to the first bolt then up features to a nice balancy slab move to gain anchors.

Gain bulge, clip first bolt. Hard start, tend left around mini arete up to anchors. Watch for z clipping from 4th to anchors. Grade is for the start rest of climb is 16.

Gain bulge clip first bolt, shares start with GGT, tend right following crack then up though crux to anchors.

Up bulge to gain small ledge and clip first bolt, up fun features to anchors.

Sit Start. Left hand on small horn, right hand on good sloper to the right. Straight up for a nerve-wracking top out. Do what you kneed to!

Stand start, hands on good rail about head height. Move up and left into the corner for a fun top out between the two trees.

A fun variant to Knees Out. Stand start, both hands on good side pull, up to the obvious jug and finish same as for Knees Out. Look out for spiders!

Sit start, both hands on obvious rail. Up to the side pull and away you go.

Stand start, right hand on side pull, left hand on crimp. Move straight up and over the bulge. Big jug/pocket is in but stay out of the corner. Top out to the left of the tree.

Sit start on long rail, same as Spider Knees

Sit start as for Space Jared. Traverse left to before making big move up to massive huge enormous King Kong size great big long wide glory jug rail and then mantle.

Can be done the high way (hitting the lip then moving right to the slopey jug as seen in the Oliver Rickford clip) or the low way which traverses the lip and is slightly harder. Awesome either way.

Oliver Rickford

Sit start matched in right hand pocket. Straight up to jugs and mantle out.

Sit start with hands in pockets. Stay low moving through crimp then big move up and left to lip. Lip traverse all the way to the left and mantle at furthest point.

Sit start on the left hand side of Diamond traverse up and right to top out.

Sit start on the right hand side of Diamond. Traverse lip and top out same as First Base.

Sit start on positive jug, straight up the arete.

Stand start RH on okay side pull, LH on mini jug. Straight up the seam.

Start with LH of single ply's horn and right hand on crug. Move up and to the right to gain sloper before topping out directly up.

For a fun eliminate try dynoing from the sloper to the horn and then topping out without touching the jugs on the face.

Sit start with LH on side pull, RH on large sidepull. Follow the rail to a exciting top out over the lip.

Sit start with both hands matched in the large pocket. Move up and slightly right for interesting sequence to top out.

Stand start with two hands on big rail kick feet up. Large chockstone under boulder is out. Ride rail out of overhang then head directly up over bulge for top out.

Tamati Kennedy

Sit start as for Forest Yellies move up to pockets then traverse left along rail and top out above knoblets.

Sit start with both hands on rail. Move up and right through pockets and diagonal rail to top out.

Start inside back of cave climbing out left along shelf to mouth of cave, climbing along mouth of cave to obvious finish jug on the right end of cave, when looking at cave from outside

Start outside left hand side corner of cave, climbing along mouth of cave to finish jug