Vie in Gold Coast

Up chimney on right of pillar. Up to cave and step right and climb crack to ledge. Tree belay

15m up left trending gully. From tree step right into corner and up corner system to bushes at half height. A classic climb, with excellent jambs and bridging, great holds where you need them and excellent gear. Layback at the bulge with more bomber gear and split crack. Loose rock at the top.. Wire runner at top for belay. A 70m rope to wrap back to the tree, or take 2 ropes.

Initialled start. Be wary of the Bees nest on the 2nd pitch.

Start 10m L of Caves Route. Joins Caves Route after P1 from left

10 metres left of Shere Kahn. The crack below the obvious roof problem. Balancy crux to start up the crack, then directly over roof. Natural belay, then an easy scramble out right. A good warm up.

I'm sure in Yosemite this would be grade 16. Starts R of corner at the offwidth crack. Climb the 4m offwidth (#5 camalot) to ledge, then walk off L. The headwall finish passing the very dodgy bolt (placed by an earlier party) is uncompleted. Using the fig tree is not allowed.

2m R. Very wide crack (#5 camalot) to protruding roof. Step R under roof into enclave and DBB.

The prow has been climbed direct after top rope rehearsal, with no gear after the ledge. Actually a pretty cool compression problem, with crux turning the lip. If climbing is re-opened here anyone who wishes to bolt it is welcome to do so.

Just R again. Face route up pillar on bolts next to good gear. Up past break to small sickle-crack (sling), then to ledge. Finish as for Anaconda. A great lead.

1m R. Wide shaft with lovely handcrack running up the middle. A good beginner lead. Take Anaconda's R-hand finish.

This is the pillar between the routes. Top rope only. No bolts please due to proximity to other routes.

2m R. Twin cracks/chimney. Quite a nice chimney. Bring big gear to adequately protect this.

Start up the offwidth to the right of Hunter Gatherer. Bring big cams up to arm you for the mini-wrestling match that you're about to endure. Strenuous smooth off-widthing climbing the outside of Narrow is the Way.

Start in the cave 1m R behind Fireflies pillar. Well protected climbing up a tight and fully enclosed chimney. At the top, exit L to DBB.

2m R is a detached leaning pillar with bolts. Use stick or bridge tree to clip first of three FH's, but start directly from ground. Blast directly up the pillar past two FH's to break (small SLCD). Clip the final FH, then crank up and R to top out.

The most obvious route here. 2m R of pillar and marked by some weird metal spikes sticking out down low. Attractive, sinuous crack up corner to small roof, then ramble out.

Slightly contrived, but great fun up the arete between COTW and Amazon, always staying clear of the two cracks. A couple of thin, cruxy moves to jug. Continue up arete to ledge on a variety of interesting holds. Scramble up to top.

1m R. Another sinuous crack, similar to the last one. If you pike off right, subtract a few grades.

The leaning, low-angle pillar, and wide shaft behind. The delicate crux is on the slabby pillar (no pro), so don't fall off!

Enter the cave left of Me Jane. Climb up the chimney and under the offensive rock. Top out up You Tarzan.

3m R. A shaft with a big tree growing against the rock. Bridge the shaft and climb the tree, with a harder move at the top. Belay on ledge, but scramble out L (roped).

1.5m R. Contrived, but a bit of fun. The pillar with a FH. The committing crux above the bolt must be climbed direct! Scramble down R.

Two bolts on pillar 5m right of pigmy. Great pillar climb.

1m R. The last decent corner crack on the cliff. Scramble down R.

2m left of Cheetah. Easy twin crack/chimney all the way up. Good pro.Nice beginners lead.

Walk 15m right of Tribal Dance over boulders to a large fallen-over pillar. Right in front, climb the sinuous left crack up corner to broken ground. Try and stay off the crack on the right side. Good fist jam. Bring a couple large cams.

The name of the route must always be said in a loud raspy southern American accent. Sit start in small cave; right-hand crimp and left-hand gaston start. Go directly up and end on the obvious jug, L of flake. Optional heel hook to get out of the cave

Sit start lay back and follow the obvious crack all the way up to the rail.

Start 1m L of Poseidon, on the obvious 'shield'. Compression start, (crux) then straight up and top out.

Start 2m L of The Jackdaw. Sit start in obvious crack feature on good holds. Follow crack line up and R to top out

Start as for Poseidon, but traverse low and R straight away into The Jackdaw and finish up this. Really good climbing, currently the 'Crag Classic'.

Start 1m L of Gone Fishing . Sit start on big undercling and R sidepull move up and R to a gaston, then up and L to jug, then up to top out.

Start 2m L of Walk the plank. Sit start with a good L hand jamb/side pull. Up and R, then straight up on jugs. Top out.

Start 1.5m R of Shipwrecked. Sit start on low jug, move up trending slightly L, then back R and up. top out.

Start 3.5m L of HLS. Sit start really low on the jug in the void with a sandy bottom. move up to small holds, then traverse R and up following the weakness, then over grey bulge. Top out.

Links Shipwrecked into HLS. Start as for Shipwrecked, but instead of finishing up the grey bulge, keep traversing R on slopers into HLS and finish up this.

Start 1.5m L of Red Emperor. Sit Start low on side pulls at the bottom of the obvious feature. move up, then R onto face, up to jugs and mantle to small ledge. Highball open project.

Blank line Between Hookers lines and sphincter and Red Emperor. Stand start with R hand on undercling as for Red Emperor and Left in Slot-like pocket using lots of toe hooks to reach two finger pocket and dyno to mantle out. SDS yet to go, open project.

Tristen Meacham-Day

Gold Coasts hardest open project boulder problem that exists so far. The sit start to “The Golden Hour”. Adds a number of extremely difficult long moves. The top out is v4- do it for the full tick.

On the RHS of obvious smooth red and orange panel. sit start low on underclings, move R out to rail, up to jugs and mantle. Highball top out open project.

Start 3m R of Red Emperor. Sit start low on jug to the R, up to tricky rail, move left, then straight up and out on jugs. Highball top out open project.

Start 1.5m R of Red Emperor. Sit start low on Jug, move up and L to sharp pocket, then straight up following the crackline with some interesting holds.

left heel hook start on awesome jugs, heel hook all the way. follow the line. Top out at the very end of the flake.

long traverse to the right

Sit- Start on jug flake LH and RH with a heel cranked up. Rock on and ascend! Nice sandy landing.

Start on RH sharp under cling and LH three finger pocket, heel hook on lip and right foot under. Heel hook and slap along the lip and watch the dab!

Sit start, traverse left,

Crouch start on two jugs and make a very long move up into a blind pocket. Figure out a way to burl the top. A crag classic

Crouch start low and do a long move up into a small jug then straight up.

Crouch start the obvious jugs and traverse left. Climb the blunt arete.

left heel hook start,look at photo and follow the line!

Sit start on small crimps then work left onto the large crack.

Traverse from Left side to highest point on the Right. Start sit started on a shelf. Probably the best problem here.

Far left problem. Start on two flat shelve jugs sit started. Up to a funky pocket jug and ascend.

Second line from the left. Sit start on very cool telephone jug. Long move RH to side pull (in the crack) and straight up for jugs. Brush the top on inspection first. Walk off descent.

Middle problem - Left of PAQ. This one has a little more thinking involved. Start sit-started and power up. The crack on the Left is out.

Tallest line on the boulder, 2nd from the right. Start at the bottom of a little pit at the base of a left trending crack. Start as low as possible on jugs and figure out a way to drop knee and not wreck your knee caps on a long move to a good edge in the midway break. Keep focused for the mantle.

Far Right (Starboard) problem. Start on the boulder with both hands matched on the horizontal break. A long move up then jugs. Inspect the top for Glass first

The lonely Big rock on the beach 5 meters from the little cave. Heel hook all the way mental finish.

Start at the low LHS on good holds, and follow the weakness traversing diagonally right on strong sloped holds, find knee bar rest. Push through matching undercling into sharp quartz rock with long moves, keeping feet on soild rock, hug the last big blocks being cautious of the last one. rock over mantle. 8m boulder Video is on the net, v4 holds gets a v5 as conditions are rarely bomber this close to the coast. There are 3 alternate finishes all of them are quality and stay at v5.

Furtherest left route before choss. Sit start in a cross on good holds and move up positive holds above to a high top. Get down moving left.

2nd last line. To the right of BYUOYA- starting on a grey bulge in a pocket.

Previously established classic long traverse going left from the side pull left of Miami Slicer around bulge (Crux) and along easy jug line staying low for full value to corner - V2 for the round trip. Underclings only version an open project.

Start at Bobs your Uncle, head up to the chalky ledge then traverse right across to the other chalky ledge. Start to descend before Maimi Slicer and use the "finger killer" undercling crimp to descend into the start of sandy toes under the roof. Finish in the sit start position.

Sit start at the far left of the lower ledge and work your way all the way right the the last obvious hold along the lower traverse. Great warm up boulder... easier for kids.

Sit start from undercling then follow the three big holds up. SHARP jug up top.

Start this gym like problem with a large bucket in the break and a RH undercling. Big move LH bring your feet up and driveby RH to slopper jug. Great fun

Hanging start, reach around bulge to slot and sloper, dyno to jug mantle over to left side pull. Up you go. Traverse left to get down.

Start cross handed, move right, up, then diagonally left to sloper edge.

Link up. Start SIAS move left and slightly up- and then up into Placebo, finishing with its drive-by move. Traverse left to get down.

Start on good hold at back of roof, work out to pocket, then crimps. Straight up to top, top out and traverse LEFTto descend

Sit start as for Particle wave but punch up Suck It and See. Classic. Definitely traverse left to get down

"Squeezed in" But done as its own line. Starts to the right of SIAS. Start in a sit start on a broken rail and blast up.

The last alternate finish, squeezed in but uses all her own holds. Exit out just above double under cling rail, cutting feet is always fun.

Alt finish to particle wave, enter sharp quartz area. Throw out and left to black rail. Right side pull in quartz area assists mantle. Traverse right to get down

There is a small cave made between two boulders resting upon each other roughly between the Luxury of Isolation boulder and the Particle Wave wall. starts on the south side of the block and climbs through the cave out the other side. Looked like a shit fight! But maybe if you like that kinda thing, this is the problem for you

Around the corner from Hodu, facing the ocean. Sit start on the far left side of the salty slab on good holds. Move up and right traversing across the face. Finish up far right. Can be slippery at high tide and in the sun. Add a grade for No-Hands.

Sit start on jugs formed by the crack. Traverse right on tough holds into the start of “Déjà Hues” and top out as this. Was sent by a visiting comp climber at V8/9, 5 years ago- sand height dependant.

Sit start straight up. Very sharp rock.

Sit start, traverse left follow the line. Top out on the highest point.

Sit start follow the crack, keep moving left, top out at the end of the crack.