Vías en Australia para grado seleccionado

Climb the arête from a stand-start. Pinchy moves lead to a throw to a good hold. From here head left to finish up the slab.

First move as for de ja vu then right reversing Sidney Crosbie and finishing up Babymoon. No use of the top until exit up BM. Will also have an extension into LOR.

Sit-start on the lowest two side-pulls and climb the overhanging face on positive holds. Holds right of the arête (on the slab) are out of bounds for hands and feet. Low square notch on the arete is in. Top out to finish.

Sit-start on the largest holds in the low break (not quite at the far right-hand end). Traverse leftwards, slapping and heel-hooking, until better holds permit a reachy rock-over to finish. Nice line but tricky to keep your feet off the ground.

Sit start with left hand on undercling as for HW&C and right hand in the bottom of crack. Up crack to dynamic move to join top of LS&2SB.

Obvious thin crack located 60m southeast and across creek from Hispaniola. Sit start with left hand high in crack and right hand low on side-pull. Tough start leads to easier top out.

Low sit start to OLLs using the two lowest layaways. A couple of tough pulls to gain its start.

Sit start with pinch and small edge. Make a big move out left to good slot, then continue along seam to top out on slopers.

Stand start and climb Parallel Lives but top out to the left not right,

The glorious arete on the left end of the orange face. Stand start and compress to gain jug at 2/3 height. 2 mantles see you home from there. Has a directional bolt for TR above finish. ABSEIL DESCENT.

Sit start matched on the good low jug. Gaston, heel hook, and sharp edges up the arete. No rocking over early - top out at the apex.

A little bit gritty but the moves are decent.

Sit start and climb up the prow.

Stand-start and climb the wall and arete. Sustained and fingery.

Located on a boulder on the edge of quarry. Sit-start on the obvious notch/hold and then climb the sharp arete. Tricky in full sun!

Stand-start and climb the arete on the right hand side. Mantle over arete to finish.

Burly but not sharp tips finger crack. Move right when it ends and join up with topout for Inquisition.

Sit start and climb the rounded arete/wall. Can be done from a stand start at around V2. This boulder is just in front of The Crack boulder.

Allow both hands to bite into the high crimp rail on the wall/arete. With feet on nothing make a long reach to the crack on the left wall. Finish up here.

That moment in a rock over where if you stall you end up 2 feet short of the hold. Cute little line left of MC. Start LH on slope rail, RH on good low hold then up via slopes crimps and slimps to Gaston into the scoop. Finish straight up.

Stand start and climb the arete. Finish with a mantle on the left hand side.

From the crimps on the lip, head up and left through small sharp holds and heel hooks.

Start as for Arlo and Jez Build a House. Sitstart and then move left to the large leaning rail feature. From here traverse left and up following the seam until topping out at the highest point. The landing slopes away which is a bit disconcerting. Crux is the first half of the traverse. Eases with height. It's a great line. EDIT (17/10/19): Changed grade to V6 on reflection.

Tough stand start matched on the obvious hold on the left side of arete between AtA and FT. Hard for the grade. Will go from a sit start via a couple of proper hard moves. Static start for the grade, V6 with a hop.

The brother to Live Forever. Sit start at the jugs on the left hand side and traverse right and up to finish up the mantle of Live Forever. Really good.

Sit-start and traverse leftwards to top out.

Stand-start and climb the bulging arete.

Climb the thin wall to large holds and traverse right to the big ramp. Finish up the ramp.

Three metres right of Conflict Diamond. Stand start with a high right foot and tiny holds.

Start matched on the obvious jug. Mantle with a high heel and crimp on the face. Slab top out. Located on the edge of the quarry. Might be easier or harder than v6.

Sit start at low mega jug flake right side of the trackside face. Straight up via some tricky tenuous moves to gain the obvious bulb then mantle. I was all over the show today so grace could be out. These had chalk in them so will see what they thought...

Climb the wall and right arete just right of the bouldering slabs. Stand start.

Traverse seam right then head up thin edges to DRB at the top.

Square cut corner uphill from LBP and visible through the gully left of that route. Easy to ledge then boulder corner (bout V6) past 3 rings/Us (cant remember). Bolted by KP.

Eliminate line near the arete to the right of The Dyke using a right-hand sidepull and left-hand crack-crimp to reach crimps/slopers, and then move left to jugs and top out. No arête on right.

Crouch start low on the arete (don't stand on the adjacent boulder). Climb the arete on it's right-hand side to half-way. Then move left to jugs and climb up via tricky moves to a slabby finish.

Around the corner from HBA. Stand-start and climb the left-hand wall of the blank face via long reaches to a big potato hold. From here move up and left, swarming around the arete to finish. Solo after top rope.

Start to the left of Durin's Bane in patch of lighter coloured flakes and climb straight up into end of Durin's Bane. LH start on big pinch/sidepull. RH start on low small two-finger undercling. The close detached block for footholds is on.

📹 Grit or Greed

Short burley climbing up a steep face. Sit start matched in horizontal crack and climb up to lip and tricky mantle.

Climb the thin wall right of Sprint Finish - harder than it looks. Could sneak to V7.

Extended start to Simple Sugars starting on big holds at the tree and doing a few moves including a tricky drop-down to get into the original problem. Finish as for Simple Sugars.

Sit-start and climb the groove to a long and hard move gaining the sloping edge on the blank wall. Another tricky moves gains the rock scar above and an easier topout.

Thin line up the L side of the main wall. Wires needed for the start and finish. 4 FH. Beware possibility of flipping upside down at the 2nd FH.

Sit start under rooflet with pocket and crimp, use slopey holds to climb the crack and try not to fall off the edge.

Steep and technical. Will go free at some point. Starts at the wall down and L of Smiler. Boulder the wall with no pro to a pea-pod and a fixed pin (about Gr 19). Hard moves up and onto the ramp and follow this to the black wall. One or two aids brings the diagonal to hand. Swing R and up this to the top.

Low start on very poor side pulls to gain jug and up.

Stand start at high single joint edge on right side of face. Campus to jug edge and again to sloped lip. Just your typical black hill horror mantle on nothing to gain slab and freedom!

Exquisite. Sit start in the middle of the middle block and traverse the sinuous lip left, through and up to a climactic finish and mantle back right (lying down or bridging on the left block at the finish is a definite no no).

Sharp sit start 1.5m left of BVL. Layaway edges up and left via small flat tops and continue left to good layaway just inside arête

Sit start with big underclings and make powerful moves into line until the obvious large side pulls at 4m (or just swallow the medicine and keep cranking through insecure groove to top)

Undercut and difficult getting off the ground. Pull up on good locks and through the flaring groove above. Grade 14 above 5m, so makes a reasonable highball boulder problem... although has also been described as "insecure 24 exiting onto the slab at 6-7m with a big dead tree lying on the ground behind you", so you might want to rope it first!

Half Man Half Crack then up thin bolted face above (3FH, DBB below capstone). The capstone can be climbed at about 14 on jugs for those committed to topping out. 2018- Apparently some douche has stolen the hangers (which can’t be reached from adjacent crack climbs)

Consensus 26 to avoid the broken bits of the previous routes.

Climb to first bolt on BV then traverse into PUM and up. 7 RB.

Rebolted 06/23. Bolts and glue provided by Safer Cliffs Victoria.

Sounds appealing! This is actually a pretty good and significantly harder companion for Anguish. Good face climbing leads to a desperate slab finish past last bolt.

Outstanding climbing direct up the middle of the face. Classic. FFA Steven Wilson ~2010

Boulder out hard start of Overlord and finish as for Cult Master.

Long ground level traverse of the squeal like a pig slab. Best done right to left starting at giant pocket. Hard moves for first 4m to blackened stump then miles of slabbng to gain obvious ground level hands free about 2/3 away across face (start of The Squealing)

Reach dependent sit start at right end of dyke. V4 if you stack to reach jug, V4/5 if you can reach the good edge mid height on the dyke, V6 from slimps at base of dyke.

Named after Chris' dog, Han Solo. The huge, overhanging offwidth facing east when you enter the area.

Difficulty will change depending on size of hands/legs/feet etc.

Watch out for the loose(ish) victory jug on left.

Up the West coast of Africa past two ring bolts, then traverse right along the North coast of Africa and into Europe past two fixed hangers. The crux comes between the third and fourth bolt. Has been heavily damaged by the last bush fire. Should still go but probably harder.

Stand start on crimps and top out through the scoop. Almost gets a star.

Traverse the sloping ledge right to pull onto the narrow face and mantle out.

Pull onto the wall at full span from the low right undercling and high left sloper, then top out. Note: A large nearby tree has fallen blocking this whole side of boulder.

Check start holds for the eponymous serpent - scaley bugger delayed my FA by two weeks! Dyno straight to the flat lip then mantle and top out.

Sit start at the triangular flat hold then head right. Mantle finish.

Pop up onto the slab with absolutely no hand holds then magic your way into the bottom of the splitter crack. Helps to be 6 foot Plus!

Sit start, bust out to the lip and climb to glory.

Simply superb, but at the crux you have to make something out of nothing. Unfortunately a chipped foothold appeared on the crux bulge about a year after the FA; ironically for many subsequent ascentionists it is in a poor location and doesn't get used. Rebolted 2016

Start: Start 5m R of 'Gnipples', under the only clean streak up this face.

From a stand down left of the shelf climb direct with no hugging around right. Probably V5 but punting the last hard lay aways could hurt.

Project no more. Amazing line on great rock. Thin and techie!

Start as for "sparkling" then finish as for "Extra stout". Protruding block on left of the cave is in other wise all other low blocks in cave are out. Traverse along the rail then punch up the crimps on the face.

Sit start with hands matched on the low protruding block. A very bunched start leads to some shouldery moves leads to a top

Sit start heading up the overhanging face. Start with left hand pinching arete and right on a low undercling. Power up to good right hand sidepull, slap to the lip and mantel direct

Start with left hand on blocky high under cling and right on the sloper/crimp on the corner of the lower rh face. Squeeze hard to stand up and powerfully slap wherever you can hold to top out direct for the full experience. Note that this could be over graded.

Jump up to the break and then head to the top using small face holds (No use of left arête or chossy crack on right)

From right most holds, traverse left to top out through a poor crimp and long moves. Steep, cool.

Start at the lowest point of the lip and blast your way through the awesome shouldery, heel-hooky sequence, around the corner, up and out. Should be two stars but the annoying boulder underneath (that isn't in) really gets in the way. climb might go at an easier grade once removed...

Start matched on the low undercling at the lowest point on the boulder. Move up to the lip and traverse the lip rightwards until topping out on the highest corner (traverse 3 sides of the boulder).

Climbs to the top of bulge on 'Mutant Ninja'. Nice moves!

Up the nicely featured arete, sit starting with opposed pockets and up using hold on both sides of the arete. Best climb in the area so far! Unsure of grade

Small compression boulder with a wide start. Sit-start with hands on both aretes. Hard compression leads to a good edge before an easier exit.

A nice lip traverse on jugs and slopers with many heel hooks! Crouch-start with left hand jug and right hand on pinch under the roof. Slap up onto slopers and traverse rightward on decent but sharp slopers until the juggy crack (shared with 'A Penchant for Dreaming (V5)'). From here, mantel difficultly using chicken heads.

R of Ginsu. Climbs the steep blank wall with the "snail trail" and 5 or 6 FHs, using very few very small crimps. Thin is the word.

2016: The 'snail trail' mark no longer exists - but you can't miss the route. Blankest, meanest bit of cliff that has bolts on it.

Looks heinous!! Two FH's lead up and to the L to a rest before the crux at the third FH. Up past one BR to finish. Chain belay.

5m R. Scramble up to high first bolt on far right of the choss ledge. A few bolts lead up and R (slab) until it kicks back. A long move to a flake begins the steep climbing. A pronounced crux lunge (stopper bloc?) leaves you with the last victory move to finishing jug.

Typhon was the largest and most fearsome of all creatures. His human upper half reached as high as the stars, and his hands reached east and west. Instead of a human head, a hundred dragon heads erupted from his neck and shoulders. 5m R. Up easy start just left of the platform, then orange wall, and steepness above. The finale through a steep little bulge is a heartbreaker.

The two-legged dragon with barbed tail, often seen as a symbol of strength and endurance. 10m R. Starts roughly in the middle of the wall, under the steepest looking section up high. Stickclip the first bolt for the tricky start, then it backs off for quite some time. At the point it becomes overhanging and you’ll jug haul through to a welcome camp in a cave where you can take your shoes off and ponder the view (24 to here?). From here, it’s all business pulling through the lip and into the superb stone of the 45 degree, powerful overhanging finale where you’ll either have some arms left, or not. 19 FH’s (long draws) to lower-off. Lowering off the top requires 80m rope. When it comes to cleaning, do it in two halves (chain+biner in cave).

2m R. Stem off the boulder L past the bolt. Up the smooth tricky slab and then oodles of climbing which eventually runs into the multifaceted overhung corners just left of the big fig tree stump 30m up (steep!). The very top, up a runnel feature is super cool. The route features a number of tricky sections interspersed with good rests. May be on the easy side for 26 but I doubt there’ll be too many complaints.

The giant tree. Tricky slab start, then onwards past lots of climbing and rests to get established in a rest below the punchy final overhang. Hard to read moves. Solid.

The white wall just right of fig tree roots. R-trending line up slab. As it steepens at about the 20m mark, there is a section which deviates 2m L to avoid a loose patch. Then, a tricky roof to negotiate on the orange rock, then steeply through blocky black overhang. Pumpy, with surprising incuts and jugs.

The monstrous hound Garm guards the entrance to Helheim, the Norse realm of the dead. 2m R. Another R-trending line. Stickclip, because it’s tricky just getting off the ground. Put a 1m sling on second bolt, and step R. Like Monster, you have a roof to pull at half height, but it’s a bit easier.

Closed. 5m R of Garm at black corner crack. The rippled top arete is amazing with a heartbreaker finale! Take a handful of 1m slings to reduce drag. At least 20 clips.

“Five cruxes!” Starts 4m R at black slab with tree against cliff. Tree can be climbed to pre-clip first bolt before starting from ground. Good solid rock the whole way with at least 15 quickdraws and a go-for-it attitude required. 70m rope might work - tie a stopper or use an 80m.

The best piece of stone on the wall. Vertical, pure technicality with a brick hard crux traverse. Channel your favourite 80s sport climbing hero, and remember to vulcanize. Ringbolts.