Grado | Vía | Estilo de equipamiento | Calidad | Escalador | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
Vie 29.º Sep 2023 - Les Gorges du Verdon | |||||||
Rive Gauche La Ramirole | |||||||
7c+ | ★★ Pequeña — 4 intentos - con Michael Laraia | ★★ Muy buena | |||||
First six quickdraws are not that hard (maybe 7b) on juggy tufas but already extremely overhanging (could do this in one piece in my second try). Then, there is a part without tufas and I couldn't do two single moves. From the last bolt to the anchor it's again easier. Extremely powerful, I have to improve my max power for this.
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7a+ Duro | ★★ Le clocheton du chicon - con Michael Laraia | ★★ Muy buena | |||||
Quite hard, too hard for warming up. Actually quite good, and the upper part is better and less chossy than it looks.
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Vie 29.º Sep 2023 - Les Gorges du Verdon | |||||||
Rive Gauche Estellié | |||||||
6b+ Fácil |
★★★ Petra Aliena
- con
Dirk
1
6b
30
escalada de primero por
ToxicD
Steep start into the route. Some tricky moves to get through some sections. For me this was the hardest pitch of the route, maybe because it was the warmup.
2
5c
15
escalada de primero por
Dirk
Very easy traverse.
3
6b
30
escalada de primero por
ToxicD
Technical and vertical wall. Never super easy and blender super hard. Always time to rest in between. Awesome pitch.
4
6b
40
escalada de primero por
Dirk
Long pitch, starts with a juggy traverse to the left and crosses the wall to the right. A short slabby section with some crimps are the crux of this pitch. The traverse before the anchor is pretty easy if you find all holds.
6
6b+
30
escalada de primero por
Dirk
Steep start, afterwards a traverse to the left. Don't traverse to early. Pretty cool pitch and there's almost everywhere a jug to rest. Soft for 6b+. | 170m | ★★★ Clásico | ||||
Every pitch is pretty cool. Mostly steep climbing with very good hand and footholds. All in all relatively soft for the grade, compared to other routes on the other side of the gorge.
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Lun 25.º Sep 2023 - Les Gorges du Verdon | |||||||
Rive Gauche Point Sublime Duc-Encastel Hulk | |||||||
6a+ | ★★★ Le feu au Hulk sortie G - con Fabian Michel | 22m | ★★★ Clásico | ||||
Great climbing from the start to the end. Slabby finish on slopers and spicy bolting before the anchor.
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7b+ | ★★★ Chiée de voie pour la patronne - con ToxicD | ★★★ Clásico | |||||
Nice vertical face climbing. Got to the second to last quickdraw where I ran out of power. Going from the last quickdraw to the anchor is quite hard - you have to establish yourself on the slab above the vertical part of the wall.
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7c | ★★★ Fulk you - con ToxicD | ★★ Muy buena | |||||
Nice route. Starts in the back of a small cave. First, you traverse to your left on underclings in a roof before turning the lip. Apart from one hard move to reach the tufa on your left, the part after the lip is just jugs and a really good climb.
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7b+ ~7c+ | ★★ La petite Hulkotte - con ToxicD | 12m | ★★ Muy buena | ||||
Called 'La Hulkotte Clandestine' in our guidebook. A shorter route, but the moves are continuously hard right from the start all the way to the anchors. Felt harder than all the other routes I tried and it's definitely harder than 7b+ in my opinion.
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7a | ★★ Hulk Hulk Klan - con ToxicD | 30m | ★★ Muy buena | ||||
Easy up to the overhanging section, then pumpy to the anchors. Fell at the second to last quickdraw when it's easier to take some holds below you instead of continuing upwards.
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6b+ | ★ Parle à mon Hulk — 2 intentos - con Fabian Michel | ★ Buena | |||||
Bouldery moves at the second bolt, afterwards cool crimps.
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Mié 30.º Ag 2023 - Les Gorges du Verdon | |||||||
Rive Gauche Point Sublime Baume aux Couillons | |||||||
6b | ★★★ Allo rdure ici vom | ★★★ Megaclásica | |||||
Fell at the 2nd boulder crux
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Lun 28.º Ag 2023 - Les Gorges du Verdon | |||||||
Rive Gauche Point Sublime Duc-Encastel Hulk | |||||||
7a | ★★ Le Trou du Hulk | 25m | ★★ Muy buena | ||||
Tried the start
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Lun 14.º Ag 2023 - Les Gorges du Verdon | |||||||
Rive Gauche La Ramirole | |||||||
8b+ ~8a | Kiss Kiss Gang Bang | ||||||
First pitch
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Mar 30.º Ag 2022 - Les Gorges du Verdon | |||||||
Rive Gauche Point Sublime Duc-Encastel Paroi Du Duc | |||||||
6b+ A2 6b+ A2 | ★★ Les enragés | 300m | ★★ Muy buena | ||||
6b+ A2 6b+ A2 | ★★ Les enragés | 300m | ★★ Muy buena | ||||
Sáb 2.º Jul 2022 - Les Gorges du Verdon | |||||||
Rive Gauche La Ramirole | |||||||
9a | ★★★ Promotion canne à pêche | 50m | ★★★ Megaclásica | ||||
Voie exceptionnelle. 50 mètres.
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Sáb 4.º Jun 2022 - Les Gorges du Verdon | |||||||
Rive Gauche La Ramirole | |||||||
9a | ★★★ Pajarito | 40m | ★★★ Megaclásica | ||||
Magnifique, resi physique sur petites colos et inversées. 2 essais. 8c+/9a.
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Lun 18.º Abr 2022 - Les Gorges du Verdon | |||||||
Rive Gauche La Ramirole | |||||||
8b | ★★★ La Ramirole | 150m | ★★★ Megaclásica | ||||
one day ascent, every pitch on lead
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Jue 2.º Sep 2021 - Les Gorges du Verdon | |||||||
Rive Gauche Les Hauts Vernis Qui Reva Verra | |||||||
5c | En Vers et Contre Tout | ★ Buena | |||||
two pitches, crag, layback, wall, loose rocks at the top. long route. perfekt view on the lake. Feels like a summit.
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Jue 22.º Jul 2021 - Les Gorges du Verdon | |||||||
Rive Gauche La Ramirole | |||||||
6c |
★★ Les salades de l’apocalypse (Les salades de l’apocalypse P1)
- con
Philip
1
6c
| ★★ Muy buena | |||||
What an amazing location!!!
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7b | ★ Lait chaud de la mamie molle - con Moxi | ★ Buena | |||||
Way too warm
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Mié 21.º Jul 2021 - Les Gorges du Verdon | |||||||
Rive Gauche Col d'Illoire Fraluc | |||||||
6a+ | ★★★ Toa - con Cury, Moxi, Philip, Jim, Leo | ★★★ Clásico | |||||
Got too early pumped and fell in the middle part. Was not a good attempt
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6a+ | ★★★ Toa - con Cury, Moxi, Philip, Jim, Leo | ★★★ Clásico | |||||
Made it well, managed the crux, but got too pumped , so no redpoint But this attempt left me with a good feeling that a redpoint was just a matter of time after a good rest
The diversity of the moves and the rock are a real fun |
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6a+ | ★★★ Toa - con Cury, Moxi, Philip, Jim, Leo | ★★★ Clásico | |||||
Mostly jugs, partly like beautiful mini-cave-formations. Unfortunately I misread the moves and got too pumped
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Lun 19.º Jul 2021 - Les Gorges du Verdon | |||||||
Rive Gauche Col d'Illoire Fraluc | |||||||
4a 6a | ★ Delire a Deux - con Philip, Jim | ★★ Muy buena | |||||
To the first anchor, so Jim can do toprope
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5b | ★★ Une Paire de Trois - con Moxi, Philip, Jim, Cury, Leo | ★★★ Clásico | |||||
Und der Regen kam
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6a+ | ★★★ Toa - con Moxi | ★★★ Clásico | |||||
Really good for a 6a+ climb
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Dom 18.º Jul 2021 - Les Gorges du Verdon | |||||||
Rive Gauche Bauchet Aquarelle | |||||||
6c+ | ★★ Cruelles Esperances | ★★★ Clásico | |||||
Très variée
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7a | ★★ Tribulacion de Gabachos - con Moxi | ★ Buena | |||||
Elbow pain got worse at the undercling, not worth to push it...
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6c+ | ★★ Cruelles Esperances - con Moxi | ★★ Muy buena | |||||
Way too warm and no wind
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Dom 18.º Jul 2021 - Les Gorges du Verdon | |||||||
Rive Gauche Bauchet Madame Reve | |||||||
6c | Madame Reve Variant - con Moxi | Medio | |||||
Ugly start and the top is also not the best
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Jue 3.º Jun 2021 - Les Gorges du Verdon | |||||||
Rive Gauche La Ramirole | |||||||
7c 8a | L’esthète de lard | ||||||
Right exit
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Dom 30.º Mayo 2021 - Les Gorges du Verdon | |||||||
Rive Gauche Point Sublime Duc-Encastel Hulk | |||||||
8b | ★★★ Hulkosaure | 60m | ★★★ Clásico | ||||
2nd Go. mono-tufa king line. full koala mode.
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Vie 28.º Mayo 2021 - Les Gorges du Verdon | |||||||
Rive Gauche Tom et Je Ris | |||||||
8b+ | ★★★ Tom et Je Ris | 60m | ★★★ Megaclásica | ||||
Two days. 5 tries. One of the most amazing tufa lines! 60m battle against pumped forearms
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Jue 6.º Mayo 2021 - Les Gorges du Verdon | |||||||
Rive Gauche Les Hauts Vernis Yayaourt | |||||||
5b+ | Fleuer de Buis | ★ Buena | |||||
2 longueurs 5b+ avec un relai sympa entre les 2
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Lun 27.º Jul 2020 - Les Gorges du Verdon | |||||||
Rive Gauche La Ramirole | |||||||
8c | Bohemian Symphony Extension | ||||||
First FA of the season on the Ramirole 🤙. It was an "end of day" project : Bohemian symphony extension. It could be around 8c. I was close to do my warm up project too, falling on the last move... Next one
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Jue 5.º Sep 2019 - Les Gorges du Verdon | |||||||
Rive Gauche Les Hauts Vernis Or i y a... | |||||||
5b+ | ★★ En Tonne y Soit (Qui Mal y Pense) - con simon roguet | 20m, 8 | |||||
Une ascension en arête plutôt technique avec des clippages pas évidents pour du 5b.
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Lun 2.º Sep 2019 - Les Gorges du Verdon | |||||||
Rive Gauche Vallon d'Estay La Chaise Haute | |||||||
6a+ | Asia - con Simon Roguet | ★ Buena | |||||
Crux en fin de voie
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Lun 8.º Oct 2018 - Les Gorges du Verdon | |||||||
Rive Gauche Point Sublime Duc-Encastel Hulk | |||||||
6c | ★ L'Edulkation Nationale - con Seb Blach | 18m | |||||
Not sure if this was the route but the one I did was 6c or 6c+.
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6b | ★★★ Moule au Cade - con Seb Blach | 20m | |||||
Not sure if this was the route but the one I did was 6b or 6b+.
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Lun 27.º Nov 2017 - Les Gorges du Verdon | |||||||
Rive Gauche Point Sublime Duc-Encastel Dièdre Samson | |||||||
7a | ★★★ Serie Limitèe - con Paul Frothy Thomson | 300m | ★★★ Megaclásica | ||||
Awesome. Such great adventure-sport climbing. Led clean P1, P3, P4, and had mixed success following clean on the other pitches. P5 and P8 were sandbagged in my opinion. It was so cold but was worth it.
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Sáb 11.º Nov 2017 - Les Gorges du Verdon | |||||||
Rive Gauche Point Sublime Duc-Encastel Dièdre Samson | |||||||
7a | ★★★ Serie Limitèe - con Stephen Varney | 300m | ★★★ Megaclásica | ||||
Yes, this baby has earned a rare Mega Classic from me. 8 pitches, and not one of them less than "very good" in my books. The initial 4 very thin slab pitches lead to 4 steep and punchy pitches (including a tufa!) on the headwall. Seriously Alpine temps (we almost bailed after multiple pitches of screaming barfies) and we were obliged to tow way more cold weather gear than I ever have on a rock climb before. Led P2, P5, P6, P7, and P8, and 2nd clean all other pitches. Very psyched to onsight the nails and exposed 7a pitch (stuck the crux boulder by the skin of my teeth), but the ascent was marred by a fall at the end of the tufa boulder on the first 6c pitch. The last pitch became a shemozzle as we raced the darkess to the top to find the rap anchors in daylight.
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Mar 20.º Jun 2017 - Les Gorges du Verdon | |||||||
Rive Gauche Point Sublime Duc-Encastel Paroi Du Duc | |||||||
6b+ 6c+ | ★★ Valse Pour Manon - con Karine Deberdt, Maurice de Jonge | 200m | ★★ Muy buena | ||||
Awesome day out in the Gorge du verdin.....first route here and it won't be the last.
Did alternate finish.......the raps off were super intense and the longest I have done.
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Lun 29.º Mayo 2017 - Les Gorges du Verdon | |||||||
Rive Gauche Point Sublime Duc-Encastel Dièdre Samson | |||||||
7a | ★★★ Serie Limitèe (Série limitée) | 300m | ★★★ Clásico | ||||
The 7a pitch is definitely 7a! The harder the pitch, the coolest the climb!
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Lun 31.º Oct 2016 - Les Gorges du Verdon | |||||||
Rive Gauche La Ramirole | |||||||
8a | ★★★ Les suceurs de médailles (Le suceur de médaille) | ★★★ Clásico | |||||
Une de voies le moins raides du secteur...ideale pour mon dos bloque...bon c'est quand même un peu tordu en bas..pas si ideale:- )Mais tres tres beau!
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Dom 23.º Oct 2016 - Les Gorges du Verdon | |||||||
Rive Gauche Tom et Je Ris | |||||||
8b+ | ★★★ Tom et Je Ris | 60m | |||||
what an amazing line!!! Really worth it.
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Lun 3.º Oct 2016 - Les Gorges du Verdon | |||||||
Rive Gauche La Ramirole | |||||||
7c+ | ★★★ Papy ké devers (Papy ké devers) | ★★★ Clásico | |||||
Amazing 4 pitch route! 8a, 7b, 7c+, 7c+ (last pitch was supposed to be a 6c+ but we missed the easy exit and topped out on a 7c+ grey slab in the dark) nearest I came from falling was while leading the 7b gardening pitch!
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Jue 1.º En 2015 - Les Gorges du Verdon | |||||||
Rive Gauche La Ramirole | |||||||
8b | ★★★ La Ramirole | 150m | |||||
8a+,8a,8b,8a+,7a
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Sáb 14.º Jun 2014 - Les Gorges du Verdon | |||||||
Rive Gauche Point Sublime Duc-Encastel Paroi Du Duc | |||||||
6c+ | ★★ Valse Pour Manon | 200m | ★★★ Clásico | ||||
If you did the variant 6a+ last pitch instead of the 6c+ pitch, this would be the Bunny Bucket Buttress of the Verdon. Each pitch is better than the last, and the top 3 are rad and hard! I led the odd-numbered pitches (linked p3 & 4), and was stoked to onsight the crux final pitch in the rain. Stunning nails blank 40m slab that kept me fighting the whole way. Did the 200m abseil in torrential rain, hid in a cave for 3 hours, then had an epic retreat across the flooded verdon river via tyrolean.
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Mié 18.º Jul 2012 - Les Gorges du Verdon | |||||||
Rive Gauche Bauchet Outrages du Temps | |||||||
6a+ | Outrages du Temps | ||||||
worth the risk..
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Mié 24.º Ag 2011 - Les Gorges du Verdon | |||||||
Rive Gauche Col d'Illoire Fraluc | |||||||
5b | ★★ Une Paire de Trois | Medio | |||||
Only a couple of worthwhile moves.
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6a | ★ Delire a Deux | ★ Buena | |||||
Friendly rat in the half-way hole.
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5a | Le Roi des Chevres | Medio | |||||
Deadpoint!
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5a+ | ★★ Fraluc | Medio | |||||
Climbs better than it looks.
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Mar 23.º Ag 2011 - Les Gorges du Verdon | |||||||
Rive Gauche Les Hauts Vernis Lucky Luke | |||||||
3b+ | William | Ni te molestes | |||||
Not good.
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3b | Jack | Basura | |||||
Useless.
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3a | Joe | Ni te molestes | |||||
Fun with no bridging.
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4b | Awerell | Medio | |||||
Not too bad.
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4c | ★★ O'Hara | Medio | |||||
Could be the toughest climb here.
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4b | ★ Jompa-Jompa | ★ Buena | |||||
Stay between the upper cracks for best value.
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4c+ | O'Timmins | ★ Buena | |||||
Where's it go above the trees?
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Lun 22.º Ag 2011 - Les Gorges du Verdon | |||||||
Rive Gauche Les Hauts Vernis Lucky Luke | |||||||
3c | Jolly-Jumper | Medio | |||||
Do it in one pitch unless practising.
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4a | Amaot | Medio | |||||
Bolts everywhere!
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4a | Canyon Apache | Medio | |||||
A hard move can be manufactured.
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4c | Ma Dalton | Medio | |||||
Not memorable.
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5a+ | Autour des Frijoles | Medio | |||||
No grabbing the tree!
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Lun 6.º Jul 2009 - Les Gorges du Verdon | |||||||
Rive Gauche Bauchet Raison d'Hetre | |||||||
7b | ★★★ Rattlesnake | ★★★ Megaclásica | |||||
#2go Enormes colonnes !! Vraiment original et marrant à grimper. Pas si facile !!
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Dom 5.º Jul 2009 - Les Gorges du Verdon | |||||||
Rive Gauche Bauchet Le Reveur Debauche | |||||||
7b+ | ★★★ Jus de Fantaisie | ★★★ Megaclásica | |||||
#2go Magnifique colonnette !! Très belle voie.
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Jue 21.º Ag 2008 - Les Gorges du Verdon | |||||||
Rive Gauche Tom et Je Ris | |||||||
8b+ | ★★★ Tom et Je Ris | 60m | ★★★ Clásico | ||||
The nicest collonette I've ever seen!!!!
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Mar 2.º Oct 2007 - Les Gorges du Verdon | |||||||
Rive Gauche Vallon d'Estay Graine de Soleil | |||||||
3c | Ca Ralentit | Ni te molestes | |||||
chips galore. outdoor gym. good for kids under 5
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Mar 2.º Oct 2007 - Les Gorges du Verdon | |||||||
Rive Gauche Vallon d'Estay Classes Uniques | |||||||
6a | Docteur Es-Taille | Medio | |||||
hardish. riduicluous glue ons!
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4c+ | Coeur de Roche | Medio | |||||
chips and glue ons galore
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5b+ | M.Bidouillage | Medio | |||||
chips and glue ons galore
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Mar 2.º Oct 2007 - Les Gorges du Verdon | |||||||
Rive Gauche Vallon d'Estay Graine de Soleil | |||||||
4a | On Surveille les Glands | Ni te molestes | |||||
chips galore. outdoor gym. good for kids under 5
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Mar 2.º Oct 2007 - Les Gorges du Verdon | |||||||
Rive Gauche Vallon d'Estay Big Bosse | |||||||
3c | ABC... | Ni te molestes | |||||
chips galore
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Mar 2.º Oct 2007 - Les Gorges du Verdon | |||||||
Rive Gauche Vallon d'Estay La Chaise Haute | |||||||
5c+ | Djett' Djett' Djett' | Medio | |||||
overhang with dick like holds glued on
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Mar 2.º Oct 2007 - Les Gorges du Verdon | |||||||
Rive Gauche Vallon d'Estay Graine de Soleil | |||||||
3c+ | Un Poireau Autour du Cou | Ni te molestes | |||||
chips galore. outdoor gym. good for kids under 5
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Mar 2.º Oct 2007 - Les Gorges du Verdon | |||||||
Rive Gauche Vallon d'Estay Big Bosse | |||||||
5b | Big Bosse | Ni te molestes | |||||
chips galore
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Mar 2.º Oct 2007 - Les Gorges du Verdon | |||||||
Rive Gauche Vallon d'Estay La Chaise Haute | |||||||
6a+ | Asia | Medio | |||||
Ridiculous glue on hold make the crux easier
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Mar 2.º Oct 2007 - Les Gorges du Verdon | |||||||
Rive Gauche Vallon d'Estay Gavade | |||||||
5c+ | ★ Gavade | ★★ Muy buena | |||||
Easy nice route. No glue ons!
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Mar 2.º Oct 2007 - Les Gorges du Verdon | |||||||
Rive Gauche Vallon d'Estay Classes Uniques | |||||||
5a | Dindon Dina Dit-On... | Medio | |||||
chips and glue ons galore
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Mar 2.º Oct 2007 - Les Gorges du Verdon | |||||||
Rive Gauche Vallon d'Estay Big Bosse | |||||||
4a+ | Zoulou Man | Ni te molestes | |||||
chips galore
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Mar 2.º Oct 2007 - Les Gorges du Verdon | |||||||
Rive Gauche Vallon d'Estay Graine de Soleil | |||||||
5a | Tulipes Timides | Ni te molestes | |||||
pissed off a german by using his rope!
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Mar 2.º Oct 2007 - Les Gorges du Verdon | |||||||
Rive Gauche Vallon d'Estay Big Bosse | |||||||
3c | Force 4 | Ni te molestes | |||||
chips galore
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Sáb 11.º Ag 2007 - Les Gorges du Verdon | |||||||
Rive Gauche Vallon d'Estay Gavade | |||||||
5c+ | ★ Gavade | Medio | |||||
Nice strarting traverse
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Sáb 11.º Ag 2007 - Les Gorges du Verdon | |||||||
Rive Gauche Vallon d'Estay La Chaise Haute | |||||||
6a+ | Asia | Medio | |||||
Artificial holds. Strange route but nice
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Mié 1.º Jun 2005 - Les Gorges du Verdon | |||||||
Rive Gauche Sallières Et Toc la Tete | |||||||
6a | ★★ Et Toc la Tete | ★★ Muy buena | |||||
With backpack trying to escape storm
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Mar 10.º Ag 2004 - Les Gorges du Verdon | |||||||
Rive Gauche Vallon d'Estay Big Bosse | |||||||
3c | Force 4 | Ni te molestes | |||||
Small beginners' wall with chipped holds.
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3c | ABC... | Ni te molestes | |||||
Small beginners' wall with chipped holds.
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Mar 10.º Ag 2004 - Les Gorges du Verdon | |||||||
Rive Gauche Vallon d'Estay Classes Uniques | |||||||
5b | La Terre Aime le Soleil | Ni te molestes | |||||
Chip city.
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5c+ | Les Mille Pattes | Medio | |||||
I put all these Verdon climbs on thecrag.com; I'm gonna bloody tick 'em!
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4c+ | Coeur de Roche | Ni te molestes | |||||
Easy open corner.
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5a | Dindon Dina Dit-On... | Ni te molestes | |||||
Chip city.
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5c | Vertikinverss' | Ni te molestes | |||||
Chip city.
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Mar 10.º Ag 2004 - Les Gorges du Verdon | |||||||
Rive Gauche Vallon d'Estay Big Bosse | |||||||
5b | Big Bosse | Medio | |||||
Unattractive landing area for a solo.
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Mar 10.º Ag 2004 - Les Gorges du Verdon | |||||||
Rive Gauche Vallon d'Estay Classes Uniques | |||||||
5b+ | M.Bidouillage | Ni te molestes | |||||
Chip city.
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Mar 10.º Ag 2004 - Les Gorges du Verdon | |||||||
Rive Gauche Vallon d'Estay Big Bosse | |||||||
4a+ | Zoulou Man | Ni te molestes | |||||
Small beginners' wall with chipped holds.
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Mar 10.º Ag 2004 - Les Gorges du Verdon | |||||||
Rive Gauche Vallon d'Estay Gavade | |||||||
5b+ | ★ Entre Toy ...Emoi | ★ Buena | |||||
A little airy bridging.
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Mar 10.º Ag 2004 - Les Gorges du Verdon | |||||||
Rive Gauche Vallon d'Estay Big Bosse | |||||||
4a | Tip Top 50 | Ni te molestes | |||||
Small beginners' wall with chipped holds.
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Mar 10.º Ag 2004 - Les Gorges du Verdon | |||||||
Rive Gauche Vallon d'Estay Classes Uniques | |||||||
5a | Classes Uniques | Medio | |||||
Chip city.
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5a+ | Couleur Lilas | Ni te molestes | |||||
Chip city.
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