Vías en Kenia para grado seleccionado

It has to be admitted that this is a little short on pro, but it is excellent and the few who have led it say provided it is approached with calm and stealth, the need for pro is secondary. Begin 6m right of Bandstand and climb easily for 25m to the right-hand and slightly higher nettle tree. From here up directly to distinct grey ledge at 6m. Awkward move left 1.5m, then up 3m before trending rightwards until directly beneath obvious bulging wall. Straight up bulge (crux), and steep wall above 7.5m to prominent groove. From this point pro is excellent. Climb groove and slightly left to mantleshelf move just below top. Finish up steep wall rightwards on good holds. 2020 edit: It turns out the need for pro wasn't secondary for some - somewhere around 2000 a bolted anchor was added at the grey ledge, with 3 more bolts on the second pitch - the first just above the awkward move left and up and the next two spaced out above.

Start at foot of face to right of main slab in open groove.

1. 26m. Climb to the cave belay.

2. From the cave belay. From belay move up leftwards to horizontal break and traverse 3m to foot of steep wall. Climb this direct to recess just below overhang. Traverse left 2m to a point below obvious large rightwards pointing flake, and surmount overhang (crux) just right of this. Step left when possible and up to top of cliff.

From cave belay move up left to brown streak in groove. Climb this direct to steep brown-coloured wall. Up this with ease to overhang. The overhang is split by a prominent narrow ledge, which is gained from the left. Bolt. Move up trending rightwards to top of the cliff.

One of Lukenia's best with a ripper finish. Step left from belay and straight up wall on right of brown streak passing a good thread belay/flake at 12m. Above is a bulging yellow wall which is surmounted from the left by a tricky mantleshelf move onto a good ledge below steepening wall. Step right and move up on good holds until flakes (bolt on left), until forced out unabashedly rightwards and up to finish.

1. 30m. Start in a slight recess just to left of large fig tree. A prominent flake lies on the face. Climb to good stance on this flake. Traverse right along ledge. Thread runner in a hole at 6m. Continue traversing at this level round the corner and then ascend 9m to reach the "keyhole". Belay peg in place and thread in back of "keyhole".

2. 20m. Climb upwards out of "keyhole" until level with a series of cracks running out to the left along the overhanging portion of the cliff. Move out along these cracks. Two awkward moves lead to a wide, grassy ledge. Easy climbing to top.

The best easiest way up the Castle, and superior to Committee Wall. Ian Howell first climbed it in 1982 but to this day can't remember who his second was. Some parties belay half-way up in the Committee Wall 'keyhole', but this might not be the best belay in the world. It can be done in one long pitch, but watch your pro carefully for the last thing you want on the final moves is rope-drag. The climb takes the East face of the Castle and starts in a gully where there is a leaning block below and right of the Committee Wall 'keyhole'. From block move up leftwards past a bolt, step left and continue leftwards to the arete. Straight up to 'keyhole'. Move up rightwards some 6m and gain a prominent ledge system which leads up diagonally leftwards. Hold your breath and traverse left along this (crux), until holds allow an exit above.

Starting up Golden Anniversary, join Committee Wall at the 'keyhole'

Start 5m left of the Tramlines gully below a steep wall with a scoop above. Climb wall for 4m then delicately into scoop, and up to small flake. Stand on this with difficulty (crux), and up to good holds. Continue to ledge. Directly up from ledge to abseil bush. Or step down and right across ledge and ascend wall some 2m right of big slash in cliff.

Start just right of big fig tree on boulder below steep slab. Climb this for a few unprotected moves to a ledge at 9m below small overhang. Bolt below overhang. Move up wall left of bolt (crux), up overhang and easier wall above to finish.

About 6m right of Junction there is a chimney crack above the ground. Climb easily up this to the righthand end of the Junction ledge, some 2m right of bolt. Move up right above obvious "pigeon-hole" (crux), then straight up wall above.

It has been said that one member of the Mountain Club makes the journey to Lukenia once a fortnight solely to do battle with this little beauty, If he succeeds on one safari, the only certainty is that it will defeat him on his next Originally climbed by traversing in from the Junction ledge on the left, parties in recent years have preferred a more direct approach. Start 3m left of Bandana at a "pigeon-hole" about a meter off the ground. Climb wall by "pigeon-hole" and step left at 3m to diagonal crack rising rightwards. Move right and over the overlap at 5m, directly above start. Climb face above moving slightly right to ledge. Mantle shelf up leftwards to ledge below black streak, and climb delicately up slab (crux), on right of bolt to top. Original route was to climb up to shallow cave and the move up rightwards.

This route ascends the steep wall and arete between Boiler Plate and Bandana. Start just left of Bandana where a difficult move leads left to a good hold. Move straight up to where pro can be placed above right end of overlap. Step right and up steep lichen wall to good jug. Mantle shelf. Move up right and ascend wall left of grassy Bandana gully with difficulty.

Between Sweet Fanny Adams and Scarab is a wall topped by a hanging block. There is a recess at the base of this wall which is climbed to a pigeon-hole. Step left at 3m and climb until level with a bolt on the right. Traverse right past this, to the bottom of the hanging block and easier ground. Straight up the wall above on jugs.

This route is a 8m boulder problem at the top of a nondescript slab, which is located some 8m left of the start of Cemetery Corner. The lower slab leads easily to the first bolt, and the route continues straight up past a second bolt to the top. Near the top it is difficult staying clear of Tombstone. Worth doing but the climb would be far superior with one less bolt.

This climb is basically an improved direct finish to Cemetery Corner. Ascend Cemetery Corner until the end of the chimney and the obvious roof. Instead of moving out left, continue up the steep polished wall just left of corner to overhang. Surmount this right-wards.

A superb direct finish to Corpse. Instead of heading right as for Corpse, hang on a big jug, place a nut, and blast upward with some steep, gymnastic moves through the shallow groove at half height. Pause to get some gear in before continuing on direct on very thin and balancey moves to get onto the final slab finish. Combined with the first half of Corpse this makes a sustained, varied and interesting route. Well worthwhile! (First top rope ascent by Hamish and Max)

Probably worth doing if for no other reason than the rare pleasure of climbing a crack at Lukenya. At the left end of Upper Cliffs is a dark bay. The Lizard takes the line up the corner, and immediately left of the bay is a steep wall with an overhang at 4.5m. Left of this is a thin crack. Ascend crack on finger-locks for 10m, then easily up arete to abseil cable.

What a joy this old classic is for the way it sorts out Lukenia climbers who can't get up cracks. There used to be a tree 9m up, which has now disappeared, adding to the quality of the climbs. Begin by thin crack in main bay where three or four technical moves leads to the overhang. Traverse left 1m and up flake to tricky move left to ledge (where the tree used to be). Move up a few feet and crux move into crack on right which is climbed to easier laybacking. Move left to gully and abseil cable.

Start some 7.5m right of The Joy Of Frogs just left of prominent tree. Strenuous pull up over bulge (it is a crime to touch tree), then up slightly left to steep wall. Mantle shelf up this then up to belay ledge at 25m. Either traverse left to abseil cable or make long rising traverse up rightwards to top of cliff.

Start about 4.5m right of Pilot Of The Storm. Easily up to flake at 4.5m then surmount overhanging wall above on good jugs. Up slightly rightwards on easier rock to belay. Finish as for Pilot Of The Storm.

Originally led without the bolt this little climb then packed a wallop. Go up the gully on the right of the Buttress to base of prominent arete immediately right of steep portion of cliff. Start directly below arete which is climbed to horizontal break. Bolt above. Step right, up, then left above bolt to easier ground. Continue left to good position on skyline. Straight up to top.

The easiest route on Nemesis, located round the corner at the right-hand side of the crag. Slightly slabby start up to good jugs to the top. Try not to pull too hard on the flakes!

The last bolted climb to the right of the crag, round the corner. Climb the first few meters of the slab, then step left and straight up the route with the crux of the moves coming after 10m of climbing. Multiple options for holds enable climbers to finish it in various different ways. Be gentle with the flakes.

Same start as Smooth or it is possible to begin about 2m to the right. Clipping the first bolt of Smooth is definitely offroute. After reaching the first pocket on Smooth, climb a left-lacing crack (will take a cam) about 3m to the right of the bolt and move up and left of an orange dihedral (a smallish wire can be put behind a flake). Continue up steep ground to a horizontal crack (flexi-cam placement) and either move straight up onto a good horizontal ledge or move left and up using good holds and a hanging flake higher up (possible pro here). Exit rightwards.

2020 Edit: This route is probably the same as 'Bliss of Nemesis', which was bolted without being aware of the existence of this trad route.

The story revolves around an attractive reddish diedre, the start of which is about six to eight feet to the right of Smooth and Some Like It Rough. Initially quite easy, one heads up to a prominent ledge on the left side. About ten feet up, a vertical slot on the right can take a large Friend. However, if the Friend is not at hand, slightly higher up there are two bomb-proof wire placements; these are just before surmounting the ledge on the left. At this point the diedre may appear rather smooth and lacking in hand-holds, but by moving slightly right, one is passed the first climax and is comfortably gripping the slithery arête. Sinking one’s hands into the moist cavity just below the hanging orchid garden, one should notice a beautiful side-slot for up to two wires. Some rather exquisite moves follow just to the left of the hanging garden (the second climax), which allow one to grip some gorgeous jugs, although care must be exercised as this point can be rather strenuous. A wire slots into a good hand-rail allowing one to protect the easy, final moves to the finish.

A polite request: the hanging orchid on this climb is a rare and quite beautiful plant (well, it’s beautiful when it flowers); sufficient holds and protection exist to climb the route without disturbing it, so please keep to the r.d. and let’s not destroy it.

Start in orange corner to right of Leaper, below obvious thin crack leading up to left.

1. 15m. Up crack to traverse left onto good holds on the arete. Up wall above to ledge, then move right to cave and belay.

2. 15m. Move left to skyline ‘nose’, up corner then swing left onto arete. Easy climbing to summit. The second pitch is very photogenic!

To the right of Comparing Notes is a corner. Start on right-hand side of corner at hole at about 1m. Ascend and slant left around corner, then straight up to top.

Start 3m left of Theft at small "V" shaped holds. Climb about 4m on small holds then move slightly left (crux), reaching crack. Up overhang and easy to finish.

On the left side of this cliff, and slightly lower than the other part is a slab leading to an obvious corner capped by a roof. Easily up slab to corner which is reached by climbing an initial bulge (crux). Move up to where a hand-traverse leads leftwards to finish. Originally an aid route which finished aiding through the overhang above on pegs.

This old route begins 6m right of The Rood. Hard moves up to bolt on right. Step left (crux) and up to easier ground. Step right and up groove to ledge. Traverse right to leftwards rising crack. Follow this to fig tree.

Start on right-hand piece of the broken block. Go delicately over the overlap trending right to the obvious pocket at 7.5m. Cross easier ground and up to nettle tree, then right to the overhung corner. Up this and exit right by the tree on good jugs to a ledge. Finish up the face above.

Start 2m left of obvious demarcation between lichen and dark rock. Start on small holds leading to scoops. Direct line continues to horizontal crack at approx. 7.5m (pro), then continues on easier ground to belay.

Start 1m right of the demarcation line of lichen and dark rock, where the gully begins to rise. An obvious red-coloured hold is some 4m above the ground. Straight up on thin holds to easier ground at 6m. Continue to top.

Start some 20m right of Number One at two parallel rock faults. Climb left-hand fault 4.5m then move to right- hand fault and follow to top.

Start up a tricky slab to a stance before tackling a few more hard moves to reach the third bolt. From here, romp up better holds on steeper terrain to the anchor.

Go up the easy broken rock to the right of Kenyan Cowgirl.

Travel on jugs on overhanging face above Chicken Head.

Up the easiest part of the boulder with lots of textured holds and good feet. Stand-start. Good for first-timers outside or for a quick warm-up.

Stand-start, up the left-hand side of the boulder on good holds.

Stand-start. Up the middle of the slabby section of the boulder, good practice for finding feet and smearing on slabs.

Sit start, both hands in the crack. Up the crack and left onto the half-way ledge. Straight up from there.

Easy warm-up or beginner lowball. Traverse left to right with hands on jugs on the arete.

On the far left of the boulder, from the platform of the large boulder below. Stand-start on obvious big jugs on the arete and go straight up more jugs.

Stand-start just right of the left arete. Go straight up.

Up the slab on the easier right-hand face of the boulder. Sit-start on the big crack, straight up via one slightly tricky friction foot move.

Same start as for Screaming hyrax, but go up the earlier diagonal crack.

Start on the higher crack on the left of the boulder, and follow it up to to its end and top out.

Entrance

On the left side of the boulder from Baby Slap. Stand-start on good feet and and handholds. Up jugs to the top.

Stand-start to the right of the crack in the middle of the boulder. Move up staying right of the crack.

SIt-start on the lowest rail on the slabby black rock to the right of Sit-start warm-up and Mojave. First move hardest, but still easy enough, then up jugs to the top.

On the right side of the mountain-facing side of the lower boulder, just left of the very tall face and Slipper Feet and Osoit. Stand-start on obvious big holds and go up on more good holds from there. A bit high but always on solid holds.

Stand-start on the right of the boulder, just left of where it cracks, on good holds. Up on jugs.

Sit-start on same holds as Ninja, move right to big rail, using the flake above gently to exit right.

To the far left of the cave, the short wall curves into a dilute arete. The route goes up this. do not fall.

Great introduction to highballing - good rock, good feet and good holds with a juggy finish. Stand-start in a kind of break in the bushes and trees about 10 m right of Bone Hole. Straight up the obvious line of holds to the top.

Stand-start on the left-hand side of the boulder, with hands on good holds. Work your way up and right along the jugs on the arete.

Second line from the left, straight up from a stand-start on two decent holds. Up and slightly right. The sit-start is V2, from the low blocky hold.

Stand-start from the side-pull on the left of the boulder. Straight up on good holds.

Good slab climbing exercise. Go straight up the middle of the small slab from standing, relying on friction and small pebbles.

Easy moves up the left of the boulder.

Up the arete on the right.

To the right of sanity crumble, start low and delicately get to the top.

No info. Please message MCK if you have a description (https://www.mck.or.ke/contact)

The highest section of the Main Wall is steep, pale and overhangs at the top. Just right of the top an obvious gully descends the cliff for 30 m. The climb starts immediately below this in a steep groove to the left of a grey column. Pegs should not be carried on this route.

1. 30 m Climb crack until a move right can be made onto a ledge. Move along this and belay in niche up on right.

2. 30 m Up slightly then step right on buttress and up to ledge. Move up left then back right to steep black wall which is climbed to belay at triangular flake.

3. 25 m Up ramp and ridge to belay below overhangs.

4. 37 m (THIS PITCH HAS CHANGED) From in situ belay peg, traverse 2 m left to break leading up through overhangs. Now traverse right across slabs to finishing gully. Seriousness: 3

At the extreme right end of the Main Wall there is an obvious corner where the cliff bends sharply into Entrance Wall. This route makes its way up to the left of the corner. Start below the prominent nose by a large detached block.

1. 25 m. Climb onto block then up steep crack to ledge. Follow crack above until it is possible to step right, then up blocks to good belay.

2. 25 m. Climb above belay and step right to ledge. Now up to higher ledge, from where a traverse leads left for 5 m to a crack. Up this and belay on a detached block. Peg belay.

3. 30 m. Straight up slabs above for 10 m to recess (peg runner). Descend a few feet then traverse left across steep wall to crack. Up this to ledge then finish up broken rock to the right. Seriousness: 3

The prominent groove capped by a triangular block on the face overlooking the entrance to the gorge. Climb groove to its end then step right into crack. Up this a few feet then move left across lip of overhang and straight up to summit.

To the right of Recompense there is a thin crack descending from the bush. Ignore this but start 3 m right where there is a rightwards leaning wall. Move up wall then step left into groove. Continue up this for 9 m until a move can be made right onto a slab and ledge. Now left to sharp arete and swing around this to join Recompense below the overhang which is turned on its right. Finish up Recompense.

No info. Please message MCK if you have a description (https://www.mck.or.ke/contact)

From the boulder pillar of Shadow climb directly up (V+) to the base a very obvious off-width crack immediately right of pitch 2 of Shadow (15m). The wide slabby groove just right of the off-width crack is climbed; move right halfway up this, then left to corner where several fine moves left through overhangs lead to a poor stance (25m). The rotten upper section can either be climbed direct or by moving left to finish on Shadow (20m); belay 20m higher.

First impressions are that the grade is 22 A2, but we would be happy for a second ascent party to downgrade the difficulty. Will write up description, but anyone wanting to repeat the route, can contact me at any time. Three pitches, right-hand side of Springs Wall, through the left side of overhangs.

Ian Howell's 60th birthday present from MCK! This super little route is a rare commodity at Frog - a relatively easy sport climb. Start on left side of small buttress below an obvious horizontal flake/hold at 5'. Climb straight up over 4 bolts.

Historic route number: 2a

This jamming exercise climbs the obvious narrowing crack in the north lacing wall 30' right of 'Thick and Thin'.

Historic route number: 4

Begin just to the right of 'Bazooka'. Climb a crack until an awkward move can be made out to the left onto the obvious break which horizontally crosses Bazooka . Traverse leftwards across 'Bazooka', then climb the wall direct to tree belay.

Historic route number: 5

This is a direct version of the above route and begins in the same place. Up the chimney to tree. Move up and take the overhang by the bolt, finishing up some 'short and explosive' moves to top.

Historic route number: 15

This climb is marred by the close proximity of the tree. The first few moves off the ground are [16], the rest of the climb being [15]. Start right of the big tree, under the first bolt. Straight up awkwardly (the boulder to the right of the start should not be used for assistance), and slightly left under two big branches that can be used for protection. Pass the second bolt to the left (crux) and step back right and finish above.

Historic route number: 21

Any climbers who feel the need to use the tree at the start of this route should look for another climb! Start behind obvious tree to the left of 'Flight of Fancy'. Hard move off ground, then follow crack to top.

Historic route number: 32a

A short climb but a good introduction to Frog climbing. Start below the corner 30' right of 'Flight of Fancy' with a tree at 35'. Climb left bulging wall then step right into corner when possible. Straight up through tree to top.

Historic route number: 34

This route takes the clean crack to the right of 'Trader Horn' and 'Percolator'. Climb corner crack for 20' then follow crack left (crux), and up to ledge. Finish up crack above.

Historic route number: 39

Start at chimney about 20' right of 'Freebie'. Climb chimney using right wall to large ledge. Climb corner crack above until it prominently swings steeply up left. Up this crack to small ledge on left. Step across right above overhang and up to top.

Historic route number: 41a

This route follows the right-hand crack system at the back of the deep recess left of 'Ragged Glory'.

Follow the left-hand branch of the obvious crack, over horn to ledge at 30'. Enter the chimney until bulge forces you out left...or right? Finish through guano-filled tunnel under final chockstone.

Historic route number: 43b

Towards the right end of the crag is a large fig tree. To the left of the tree is a lichen-covered buttress with a wide crack on its left. This climb takes the right edge of the buttress. Start below and just to the left of the wide crack. Climb the wall for 12' then traverse left to gain the arete (thread runner). Move delicately around the arete and up to a large ledge. Climb the slab above on its right edge to the top.

Historic route number: 44

Five metres left of 'A Lie of the Mind' there is a recess at the base of the buttress. Start at recess (bolts will be seen above). Climb bulging wall on right for 10' then move leftwards up break to bolt. Good moves straight up middle of cliff to top.

Historic route number: 48a

The face of the buttress to the right of the last route is split by a prominent crack. Climb up to the chockstone and surmount this to a ledge. Continue up the crack at the back using the left wall. The wide crack above is gained by an awkward step left, and followed to the top.

Historic route number: 59

Some nice climbing but it leads nowhere. Quite strenuous with excellent protection. The corner to the right of 'Making Movies' has a fig tree almost at the top. Climb the chimney until an awkward step right can be made. Move right on underclings to a slanting leftwards crack, and up this (crux), to finish.

Historic route number: 62

One of the first classics at Frog, which has aged gracefully. This route takes the left edge of the cliff on the right of the 'Congo' bay. Start below a steep dark wall, which is climbed up slightly rightwards, then back left to a prominent small fig tree at 25'. Up through the tree onto the wall above, and climb up leftwards to a point below a bolt. Move up leftwards (crux) to the 'edge', which is followed to the top.

Historic route number: 70

In the centre of the cliff is an obvious corner crack which splits at 15'. Climb crack then layback leftwards until it is possible to pull up onto the block. A belay helps alleviate rope drag here. Climb crack above to top.

Historic route number: 79

Start to the right of 'Moby Dick', directly behind some thin trees. Climb the corner/crack past three detached blocks. Climb black slab. Finish up the crack on left.

Historic route number: 90

Easy smearing up the backside slab of the boulder. Be humbled by the local kids walking up it barefoot.

The R side of buttress climbed by Daphne's Delight. Start 35m R of Daphne's Delight and some 6m. R of a groove leading to a tree with grey roots 30m. above the ground. A thin start leads to good holds which are followed R-wards for 15m. Then a rising traverse L to a tree in a groove (35m.). Climb groove using roots for 10m., then traverse R along sloping ledge to a thin crack; climb this and walls above to tree (30m.). Traverse 6m. L and go up to tree at foot of steep crack; take this and at end step L to blocks, then L again round lichen arete, moving up to a wide diagonal crack rising L. Climb crack and sloping ledges above to terrace (35m.). Ignore a wide gully straight above terrace. Look to buttress on R of the gully. Ascend L arete of buttress for 6m. then traverse R to obvious ear-shaped flake. Now move up L then directly in middle of buttress to a tree (25m.). Behind the belay climb a chock-filled gully for about 15m. to its top at a ledge. A steep thin crack splits the wall on L; climb this with considerable difficulty for 15m. until good holds appear on a lichen bulge. Move up bulge L-wards to grassy terrace (35m.).

A cool feature of not too hard climbing. follow the Z and exit up to the left.

Pitch 1

Blocky start moving left towards sheer face.

Make fun moves up rail on steep wall using crack on right side until you move over top to platform.

Terrifying on FA thanks to wobbling death bloc which has now been kindly removed by second.

Pitch 2

Make relatively easy moves up, trending left using crack on right for gear.

Move over top into “The Dance Arena” and belay at a convenient spot to your liking.

Pitch 3

An unlikely route takes you left over some challenging smooth slabby climbing where you need to earn you gear. Could be described as a tad run out.

Trend left and then move up to below overhang and traverse right on large ledge. We would advise moving around first corner to larger belay area to set up better for pitch 4.

Pitch 4

Straight up from belay with multiple options available depending on your preference for moisture.

Continue straight through even wetter section until you come over ledge to 4th class section which takes you to the top. Options to belay at top of crux or higher up.

See trip report here: https://www.mck.or.ke/new-climbs/the-shnoz-5-9-330m-at-ololokwe/

Alternate direct start: climb straight up to the palm tree just beneath the start of the third pitch, following the obvious nose that joins the feature above. 5.8x, second half of pitch unprotected but solid rock. Avoids the traverse pitch. (FA: James Mixon, Nicolle Richards, December 2019)

A route heading straight up to the right side of the pillar. The climb starts on the top of a ramp near a small tree (possible to climb a first pitch below). All belays are bolted (enabling abseil if you bring your own karabiners/maillons). The route is mixed trad/bolts and is very runout as it was bolted ground up.

1. 45m. Head up tending leftwards to cross a small overhang, then clip a bolt. Continue straight up to a nice belay ledge.

2. 50m. From the ledge, head left to cross small overhangs then head straight up, clipping a bolt on the way. Stay on the rock to the right of a cascade of grass. The belay is at the top of the grass on a nice grassy ledge.

3. Traverse right for a couple of meters, then head straight up, clipping one bolt on the way. Belay in a black scoop.

4. Head up tending slightly leftwards. The rock isn't so good on this pitch but bolts protects the worst parts (still runout).

5. Traverse a bit right, then up and a bit more right to clip a bolt. Then head straight up, one more bolt. Aim between two grassy ledges, clipping one bolt. The left ledge has a palm tree sticking out, that's where the belay is.

6. Head straight up to the small steepening at the top of the slab. Clip one bolt below the steepening, then traverse right to a large cave above a big palm tree.

7. Belay on roots (no bolts) to traverse right and up out of the cave. Final belay on a tree.

Variation: A thrilling finish heading directly up the tree roots to the roof overhang above the large cave was climbed by Peter Naituli and Ian Lekiluai on the 3rd ascent (17th March 2022).

Access: you can abseil from the top, or walk to the bottom of the route. Walking, get to the bottom of the cliff, then stay low while you aim for the big rock with orange overhangs separated from the main wall. Walk around that wall and find a way up (some scramble might be needed). There's a small flat spot on top of some white rocks to camp. Abseil: walk to the end of the tourist path, then walk along the cliff to a boulder tucked inside a forest. Follow a rough trail down. You can ask MCK for a GPS track. Find your way into the cave, then get to the first belay and abseil down the route (two 60m ropes needed), it's more or less straight but easy to miss a belay.

An adventurous climb, generally on reasonable rock, that could be done without a bivouac by a fast party. Walking in on the traverse path from Sabache Eco Camp you arrive just above a broad saddle between the main cliff and a small outlying hill. Head up on faint paths directly up to pale, easy-angled slabs at the foot of the face. Scramble up the slabs, traverse L into trees, start about 10m further L, on a shady ledge below a R-facing flake crack.

1. 55m. 5a. Up the flake that works its way up R-wards. Near top of flake a medium-large cam may be placed. Use long runners to avoid rope drag. Pull out L on to the face and start a heady climb up and L to a block on a ledge, here a weighted sling and/or small wires offer some protection. Climb first L-wards then directly up a poorly protectable slab aiming towards a lone palm tree and excellent belay. Very poorly protected, sustained pitch, mainly on excellent rock.

2. 40m. 4c. Continue directly up passing several trees to broken grassy ledges, flake belay.

3. 55m. 4b/c. Up wide grassy, slabby corner R of belay for 10m. Move R below roof then up R-wards towards a small tree. Up to slabs and across these, poor protection, to chimney. Up this on poor rock and grass to jammed block belay.

4. 40m. Move up then R onto a slab, which is followed R-wards, with no protection, to a shattered rock corner. Up this steeply to ledge with spike belay.

5. 45m, 4b Climb up to the L, either choosing easy loose or slightly harder better rock to its left. Reach a short steep black wall with pockets for both protection and hands. Move up L to ledges. After a couple of nice mantel shelves traverse up and L to tree belay in grassy bay. A short 20m. scramble through grass leads to the base of the walls left of a great open diedre, possible bivvy site. Block belay.

6. 45m. 4c Approach the wall at a small shelf and traverse L 5m. Make your way up and L to the obvious tree.

7. 30m. 4b. Continue up and slightly L to tree on next ledge system below final headwall.

8. 30m. Scramble L to ledges with small trees, possible bivvy site.

9. 35m. 4a. At L end of bivvy ledges step down and L onto wall to gain good holds, up these onto a slab then R facing corner and the top.

(description via Andrew Wielochowski )

Likely has been a repeat ascent of Brothers in Arms.

Repeating groups should be able to complete the climb without an overnight bivouac. (Editors note – One person who has climbed it twice bivvied ¾ of the way up both times)

1. 170ft 5.9/HVS 5a/18. Start up an obvious flake that works its way from left to right. There is limited protection at the top of the flake, unless you have very large Camelot’s (#5-6). Use long runners to avoid rope drag. Pull out left on to the face and start a heady climb towards any protection you can find. There are a couple placements for micro cams or TCUs, but they are sparse. Work back right on a poorly protectable slab climbing aiming towards a lone palm tree. A perfect vertical crack above the tree provides solid placements for a gear anchor. Quite cheeky.

2. 175ft 5.7/ Severe 4c. Work up and right from the tree anchor on easy but flaky climbing that works its way towards obvious trees. Potential crack placements exist, if willing to excavate, but the climbing is easy enough to pretty well run it all the way to the trees. Proceed to a second group of trees. Work right towards to a blocky shelf that provides decent protection. Take caution not to launch any of the loose blocks on this section. Continue up from the shelf slight right to a small flake; be cautious of smaller loose blocks below flake. Traverse left of flake to anchor on the obvious blocky shelf.

3. 160ft 5.7 Severe 4b/c. Move up and right onto a steep slab, which is followed, with no protection, up to the right until a move across right gains access to a chimney. This is followed to a large jammed block belay.

4. 120ft 5.7/Severe 4b. Traverse right from the belay at an incline on loose shattered rock, little options for decent protection, reach the left hand side of the main wall. Then go up the vertical scree until you belly flop onto a flat area with an obvious rock for safe belay.

5. 170ft 5.8 /Severe 4b. Climb up to the left, either choosing easy loose or slightly harder better rock to its left. Reach a small wall with pockets for both gear and hands. Move up left and after a couple of nice mantel shelves traverse up left to belay.

6. 140ft Scramble. Move up from belay onto easy ground. Which is followed up and left through vegetation to a large flake belay in the middle of the left hand wall of the huge diedre.

7. 170ft 5.8/ Very Severe 4c. Approach the wall at a small shelf and proceed to traverse left 15 feet. Direct your gaze up the vertical wall and indulge your eyes in the glory revealed, protection & solid holds! Make your way up and left to the obvious tree and large boulder. As this is the first pitch to not crumble in your hands, take your time to relish in the climb. For those seeking exposure, grasp onto one of the many solid pink crystallized quartz clusters and glance downward from this vertical face to the 1000 feet view below.

8. 170ft Scramble. Move up left of the mini over hang and then pick your way up and left towards the tree lined corner of the bivvy site.

9. 120ft 4a/b. Exit bivvy ledge on the left out onto the slabs. Traverse up and left on short rock walls and grassy ledges to below final steep rock wall. Balance up on good holds onto unprotected slabs above, which are followed to a good belay on a large block. Summit.

Start a short way up from the traverse left of Bone People, at the base of the corner leading straight up to notch between the Cat’s ears on the SE side.

1. 45m 4c. Up corner to 2nd tree, traverse L to a grassy area then up and back R to comfortable ledge and poor belays.

2. 15m 4c. Up corner awkwardly, chockstone runner, to gain ledge then easier climbing to the notch.

A good warmup for what the Temple has to offer. The route is short enough to be a high boulder problem though the landing would make for a devastating fall. Thus 'The Ololokwe Golf Club' took it upon themselves to make it a short and sweet sport climb.

Up the arete. Don't use the wall to the right

This little highball ascends the easy crack on the left hand sector of the temple. Be ware of loose blocks at the top.

Left of Little Hiss. A rounded bastion of rock between the two chimneys provides pleasant climbing for the un-initiated.