Ascensiones en Main Cliff teniendo Beta

The crux is not where it would seem from the ground and it is very easy to end up pulling WAY harder moves... Very different than typical Rumney climb because of the rock.

This is one where I was happy to have brought the stick clip. First bolt is a little high and above tricky moves over exposed ground.

Very fun and well bolted!

Short climber may have a tough time entering the overhang.

Got a little bit of beta for the opening sequence which I didn't find too bad. Good belayer required. Thought the crux was the exit of the second roof. Easier but slightly runout afterwards.

Première longueur seulement.

preplaced draws

Is this how I log the traverse from Magic Haze P1 to White Toad P3?

Tied in, made one move, and then retreated to bathroom. 😫😫😫😫

Many attempts, no reach top

Kate led P1 to ledge, then I traversed right to lead P3 of White Toad, making this "Magic Toad"?

Very hard to read lol

2nd go

Failed to pull the roof. Again.

Would be nice to have one more bolt at the start, otherwise, still a classic.

Was wet in places, so finished on the last two bolts of the 10b to the right. Might actually be a more interesting variation than the regular finish, but wants a couple long draws to prevent rope drag.

Still very sharp.

Steep for a 5.6

A hard step up to a fun ramble.

Some fun moves. Too bad it starts with a long scramble.

Didn't have enough strength for it today. Feeling the two prior days of climbing.

Amazing route. Bolting is on the exciting side.

Was a bit wet, so we had to make some tricky moves in the upper section.

Steep juggy fun. Just had enough juice left for it.

fabulous 5.8, unfortunately a little wet at the top this time

not my favorite. decent movement, but wanders a bit and is over chalked and polished.

awesome climb. variety of movement (including some cracks!) leading to sweet climbing on the face at the top of the wall.

one of my favorites at rumney so far. top half has wonderful climbing. fell at first crux, rest of the route clean. still unsure what the intended sequence is... step high with the left side pull into a right hand gaston? crimp really hard up the middle?

awesome variety of movement, and great view at the top

varied movement, interesting moves

"This is hard for a 5.6." Gunks App showed Rainbow going up face of overhang, and route under it was too easy, so thought this must be Rainbow. Nope. Downclimbed to rest a few times but got it clean.

Cool climb, but easier than 5.6. Neat holds. Goes under overhang, not up face of overhang (Gunks App topo is wrong)

Clean lead. Kind of sketch going over bulge.

Many attempts on starting moves but couldn't do it. Looked really hard even for our best climber

TR. Attempt Only. Struggled to make it to the first bolt.

Crux for me was at the second bulge. Took almost 45 min. Needt to reclimb a part of it to re-clip alpine draw to the climber-side rope while lowering.

Initial roof is very fun. Don't hesitate, just go for it. The slab above is less sustained but still interesting.

Come back for this. Has everything - dead point, finger jams, hand jams, mantles

1 hang

#1 of the day

In retrospect my beta at the crux was suboptimal, but it worked. Used one of the lower gastons to go to a high crimp with right hand. Might have been better to use a higher gaston with left and right on arete.