Grado | Vía | Estilo de equipamiento | Calidad | |||
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Sáb 25.º Mayo 2024 - Bungonia Gorge | ||||||
North Wall - Main | ||||||
22 |
★★★ Strangeness and Charm
3
22
35m
4
22
20m
| 55m, 20 | ★★★ Clásico | |||
Climbed via wailing cockatoos. Great day out!
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22 | ★★★ Wailing Cockatoo | 45m, 5 | ★★★ Clásico | |||
Mié 22.º Mayo 2024 - Blue Lake | ||||||
Elephant Buttress | ||||||
20 | ★★★ Trunkline | 30m | ★★★ Clásico | |||
Sáb 18.º Mayo 2024 - Arapiles | ||||||
Northern Group Echo Crag | ||||||
22 | ★★ Honeycomb | 30m | ★★ Muy buena | |||
Sáb 18.º Mayo 2024 - Arapiles | ||||||
Central Gully Central Gully Left Brick Wall | ||||||
22 | ★★★ Squeakeasy | 30m | ★★★ Clásico | |||
Jue 16.º Mayo 2024 - Mt Stapylton Amphitheatre | ||||||
Taipan Wall - North | ||||||
24 M1 Duro | ★★★ Dance of Life | 35m, 2 | ★★★ Megaclásica | |||
Fell going for the last crimp before the juggy horizontal break 2m from the top. I waxed lyrical about how good Clean Sweep is but this could be even better? For the first 2/3rds it’s slightly easier and much better protected than its compatriot to the left, but whereas Clean Sweep eases off in the top 15m Dance of Life just keeps going. I’m not sure the crimp moves are necessarily that much harder than the rest of the climb, but compared to CS it’s just so sustained for a full 40 odd metres…
Didn’t take enough long slings so rope drag was pretty awful in the top 10m or so - lesson learned there. Best bit about dropping an onsight like this right at the top is having the excuse to go do it again. |
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Mié 15.º Mayo 2024 - Arapiles | ||||||
Northern Group High Dive Gully | ||||||
21 | ★★★ A Taste of Honey | 27m | ★★★ Clásico | |||
23 | ★★★ High Dive | 25m | ★★ Muy buena | |||
Lun 13.º Mayo 2024 - Arapiles | ||||||
Far North PB Gully | ||||||
23 | ★★ PB | 23m | ★★ Muy buena | |||
Jue 9.º Mayo 2024 - Arapiles | ||||||
Voodoo Area New Image Wall | ||||||
22 | ★★ Hidden Secrets | 25m | ★★ Muy buena | |||
20 | ★★★ New Image | 25m | ★★★ Clásico | |||
Mar 7.º Mayo 2024 - Arapiles | ||||||
Voodoo Area Voodoo Buttress | ||||||
20 ~21 | ★★ Wasp | 30m | ★★ Muy buena | |||
21 | ★★★ Chinese Algebra | 48m | ★★★ Clásico | |||
Dom 5.º Mayo 2024 - Arapiles | ||||||
Central Gully Central Gully Left Hellspite Wall | ||||||
22 | ★★ Straw Dogs | 11m | ★ Buena | |||
Dom 5.º Mayo 2024 - Arapiles | ||||||
Central Gully Central Gully Left Pebbles and Bam Bam | ||||||
22 | ★★ Pebbles | 12m | ★ Buena | |||
Jue 2.º Mayo 2024 - Arapiles | ||||||
Organ Pipes Area Organ Pipes The Red Wall & Toccata Wall | ||||||
21 | ★★ The Wraith | 35m | ★★ Muy buena | |||
Sáb 6.º Abr 2024 - Arapiles | ||||||
The Pharos and Surrounds The Pharos Uncle Charlie | ||||||
28 | ★★ The Great Escape | 20m, 4 | ★★ Muy buena | |||
Vie 5.º Abr 2024 - Arapiles | ||||||
Bluffs Bluff Major Bluff Major West Face | ||||||
27 ~28 | ★★★ FinaI Departure | 27m, 7 | ★★ Muy buena | |||
Vie 5.º Abr 2024 - Arapiles | ||||||
Pilot Error Cliffs Lois Lane Wall | ||||||
25 | ★★★ Debutantes and Centipedes | 15m, 3 | ★★★ Clásico | |||
Jue 4.º Abr 2024 - Arapiles | ||||||
The Pharos and Surrounds Yesterday Gully Upper Gully | ||||||
23 | ★★★ Fever Pitch | 30m, 2 | ★★★ Clásico | |||
Mié 3.º Abr 2024 - Arapiles | ||||||
King Rat Area King Rat Gully Right Fork | ||||||
22 | ★★ Glory Rodent | 20m | ★★ Muy buena | |||
Mié 21.º Feb 2024 - Arapiles | ||||||
Central Gully Central Gully Right Dreadnought Gully | ||||||
26 | ★★ Cecil B De Mille | 20m, 1 | ★ Buena | |||
Mar 6.º Feb 2024 - Mt Stapylton Amphitheatre | ||||||
Taipan Wall - North | ||||||
24 M1 | ★★★ Clean Sweep | 40m, 1 | ★★★ Megaclásica | |||
Second shot after pumping out 2 moves before reaching easier ground on my onsight go. An immaculate climb, in my Taipan top 3 with Rage/Serp. Bears comparison with Archimedes' Principle. I though the aid requirement might detract from the experience but not at all. It was outrageous pulling under the hanging arete before establishing on good holds and turning the corner. Then there's 20 metres of perfect face climbing, decent holds the whole way but no really nice stances to place gear so you're on your arms the entire time.
It's bold for sure, I ran it out probably 6m through the most strenuous section on both the onsight and redpoint attempts. I could've placed another piece, maybe 2, but you'd need pretty wild endurance to stick around and do so. Let out a guttural yell on sticking the not-quite-a-jug that marked the end of the crux section & was almost too pumped to pull the last couple of moves to the horizontal break and easier ground above. 10/10, mega classic, would be worth the faff to pre-place gear if the ground-up approach doesn't appeal. Psyched! |
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Mié 31.º En 2024 - Mt Stapylton Amphitheatre | ||||||
Taipan Wall - North | ||||||
26 ~27 | ★★★ Father Oblivion | 52m, 7 | ★★ Muy buena | |||
26 ~27 | ★★★ Sirocco — 2 intentos | 52m, 5 | ★★★ Clásico | |||
2nd go. not sure it’s any harder than Father Oblivion… crux went down 3rd attempt with a high right foot and a pogo.
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Lun 29.º En 2024 - Arapiles | ||||||
King Rat Area King Rat Gully Skydiver Wall | ||||||
23 Duro | ★★ Dead Metaphor | 25m | ★★ Muy buena | |||
22 | ★★ Easy Does It | 12m, 2 | ★ Buena | |||
Lun 29.º En 2024 - Arapiles | ||||||
Far North Lower Curtain Wall | ||||||
21 | ★★★ Comic Relief | 20m | ★★★ Clásico | |||
Lun 29.º En 2024 - Arapiles | ||||||
Central Gully Central Gully Right Starless Buttress | ||||||
22 Fácil | ★★★ Los Endos | 40m | ★★★ Clásico | |||
Jue 18.º En 2024 - Arapiles | ||||||
Central Gully Upper Central Gully Skyline Walls | ||||||
23 Duro | ★★ On High | 20m | ★★ Muy buena | |||
Jue 18.º En 2024 - Arapiles | ||||||
Atridae The Flight Deck | ||||||
23 Duro | ★★★ Orestes | 40m | ★★★ Megaclásica | |||
Mar 26.º Dic 2023 - Lake Huntley | ||||||
27 | ★★★ Deeper Water | 310m | ||||
Top 6 pitches. Some kind of introduction to conglomerate slab climbing…
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Dom 24.º Dic 2023 - Geryon & The Acropolis | ||||||
The Acropolis North Face | ||||||
21 | ★★★ Old Wave Heroes | 240m | ★★★ Clásico | |||
Sáb 11.º Nov 2023 - Mt Stapylton Amphitheatre | ||||||
Taipan Wall - North | ||||||
29 Duro | ★★★ Rage | 35m, 7 | ★★★ Megaclásica | |||
Hard sport climbing par excellence. They simply do not get better. 12 days work since the middle of August. Definitely a sandbag, I’d give it hard 29 to the break where it meets Serpentine, with a pumpy 27 to the top. Maybe close to 31?
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Jue 9.º Nov 2023 - Arapiles | ||||||
Central Gully Upper Central Gully Cecilia Wall | ||||||
23 Fácil | ★★★ Intransience | 25m | ★★ Muy buena | |||
Mié 25.º Oct 2023 - Arapiles | ||||||
Bluffs Bluff Major Bluff Major West Face | ||||||
25 | ★★★ Station to Station | 22m, 4 | ★★ Muy buena | |||
Jue 19.º Oct 2023 - Moonarie | ||||||
Callitris Corner | ||||||
22 | ★ metal storm | |||||
23 | ★★★ Grope Session | 40m | ★★★ Clásico | |||
23 | ★★★ Grope Session | 40m | ★★★ Clásico | |||
Jue 19.º Oct 2023 - Moonarie | ||||||
The Ramparts | ||||||
23 | ★★★ Goblin Mischief | 50m, 1 | ★★★ Megaclásica | |||
23 | ★★★ Jenny Craig Moonarie Summer Camp, Activity One; The Endless Pitch | 45m, 1 | ★★★ Clásico | |||
24 | ★★★ Sweeping Statement | 45m | ★★★ Megaclásica | |||
20 | ★★ Sweeping Statement Pitch 1 | 20m | ★★★ Clásico | |||
19 | ★★ Dwarfism | 50m | ★★ Muy buena | |||
23 | Nemesis Variant Finish | 49m | ||||
22 | ★★★ Nemesis | 130m | ||||
22 | ★★★ Expiry Date | 55m | ★★★ Clásico | |||
Jue 19.º Oct 2023 - Moonarie | ||||||
Great Wall Area | ||||||
22 | ★★★ Dry Land | 45m | ★★★ Clásico | |||
19 | ★★★ Downwind of Angels | 40m | ★★★ Megaclásica | |||
Dom 1.º Oct 2023 - Arapiles | ||||||
Bluffs Bluff Major Bluff Major North Face | ||||||
17 R | ★★★ Missing Link | 30m | ★★★ Clásico | |||
Dom 1.º Oct 2023 - Arapiles | ||||||
Bluffs Bluff Major Bluff Major West Face | ||||||
23 | ★★★ Despatched | 40m, 2 | ★★★ Megaclásica | |||
Ooh boy what a magical route. Sustained, exposed, exciting, and in one of the most spectacular areas of the mount. Stoked to get the onsight!
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20 | ★★★ Thunder Crack | 30m | ★★★ Clásico | |||
Second go having fallen off some years ago. Two laps (RP + second)
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Sáb 30.º Sep 2023 - Arapiles | ||||||
Fang Buttress and Surrounds Major Mitchell Gully Morfydd Wall | ||||||
19 | ★★ Firedance | 15m | ★ Buena | |||
Sáb 30.º Sep 2023 - Arapiles | ||||||
Central Gully Central Gully Right Dreadnought Gully | ||||||
22 | ★★ Dreadnought Variant | 12m | ★★ Muy buena | |||
Jue 28.º Sep 2023 - Arapiles | ||||||
Fang Buttress and Surrounds Major Mitchell Gully Morfydd Wall | ||||||
22 | ★★ Feral Chicken | 20m, 1 | ||||
19 | ★★★ Morfydd | 30m | ★★★ Clásico | |||
Lun 25.º Sep 2023 - Mt Stapylton Amphitheatre | ||||||
Taipan Wall - North | ||||||
26 ~27 | ★★★ Father Oblivion | 52m, 7 | ★★ Muy buena | |||
Dom 17.º Sep 2023 - Mt Stapylton Amphitheatre | ||||||
Central Buttress | ||||||
18 | ★★★ Simpleton | 85m, 2 | ★★★ Clásico | |||
Jue 14.º Sep 2023 - Arapiles | ||||||
The Watchtower Faces Right Watchtower Face | ||||||
21 R |
★★★ Auto Da Fe
1
2
Linked p2/3
3
| 90m | ★★★ Clásico | |||
Jue 14.º Sep 2023 - Arapiles | ||||||
The Pharos and Surrounds The Pharos Back Wall | ||||||
19 | ★★★ Judgement Day | 67m, 1 | ★★★ Clásico | |||
Mar 5.º Sep 2023 - Arapiles | ||||||
The Pharos and Surrounds Yesterday Gully Lower Gully | ||||||
22 | ★★★ In Lemon Butter | 15m | ★★ Muy buena | |||
Lun 14.º Ag 2023 - Arapiles | ||||||
Central Gully Central Gully Left Dog Face | ||||||
18 | ★★ Jackal | 25m | ||||
18 | ★★ Howling Wolf | 28m | ||||
Lun 14.º Ag 2023 - Arapiles | ||||||
Central Gully Central Gully Left Moby Dick Pinnacle | ||||||
18 | ★★ Hyaena | 16m | ||||
another day another victim. 2nd go.
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Sáb 12.º Ag 2023 - Arapiles | ||||||
Central Gully Central Gully Left Moby Dick Pinnacle | ||||||
17 | ★★ Moby Dick | 15m | ★★ Muy buena | |||
Sáb 12.º Ag 2023 - Arapiles | ||||||
The Pharos and Surrounds The Pharos Death Row Pinnacle | ||||||
18 | ★★★ Death Row | 45m | ★★★ Clásico | |||
Sáb 12.º Ag 2023 - Arapiles | ||||||
The Pharos and Surrounds The Pharos Front Wall and West Face | ||||||
17 | ★★★ Oceanoid | 75m | ★★ Muy buena | |||
Mié 9.º Ag 2023 - Arapiles | ||||||
Pilot Error Cliffs Lois Lane Wall | ||||||
20 | ★★ Excuse me Lex | 32m | ★★ Muy buena | |||
Mié 9.º Ag 2023 - Arapiles | ||||||
Atridae Agamemnon Area | ||||||
19 | ★★ Telemachus | 35m | ★★ Muy buena | |||
22 | ★★ Collision Course | 30m | ★★ Muy buena | |||
Lun 7.º Ag 2023 - Arapiles | ||||||
Organ Pipes Area Organ Pipes Gully Organ Pipes Gully Right Side | ||||||
19 | ★★★ Lemmington | 30m | ★★★ Clásico | |||
Lun 7.º Ag 2023 - Arapiles | ||||||
Organ Pipes Area Organ Pipes D Minor Pinnacle | ||||||
18 | ★★ Aardvark | 18m | ★★ Muy buena | |||
Lun 7.º Ag 2023 - Arapiles | ||||||
The Pharos and Surrounds Pharos Gully Ethereal Buttress | ||||||
21 | ★★ Ethereal | 20m | ★★ Muy buena | |||
21 | ★★ Running on Empty | 20m | ★★ Muy buena | |||
Jue 3.º Ag 2023 - Arapiles | ||||||
The Watchtower Faces Right Watchtower Face | ||||||
18 | ★★★ Skink | 110m | ★★★ Megaclásica | |||
Mié 2.º Ag 2023 - Arapiles | ||||||
Organ Pipes Area Organ Pipes The Red Wall & Toccata Wall | ||||||
19 | ★★★ Tannin | 35m | ★★★ Clásico | |||
Lun 31.º Jul 2023 - Arapiles | ||||||
Far North Lower Curtain Wall | ||||||
18 | ★★★ Entertainer | 20m | ★★★ Clásico | |||
19 | ★★ Sideshow | 35m | ★★ Muy buena | |||
Alzheimer’s onsight
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Lun 31.º Jul 2023 - Arapiles | ||||||
Far North Vandal Area | ||||||
18 | ★★ Sweet Surrender | 60m | ||||
Pitch 1
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Mié 30.º Mar 2022 - Arapiles | ||||||
Central Gully Central Gully Left Brick Wall | ||||||
22 | ★★★ Squeakeasy | 30m | ★★★ Clásico | |||
Lun 30.º Sep 2019 - Arapiles | ||||||
The Pharos and Surrounds Yesterday Gully Lower Gully | ||||||
22 | ★★ White Heat | 20m | ★★ Muy buena | |||
Mar 14.º Mayo 2019 - Arapiles | ||||||
The Pharos and Surrounds Yesterday Gully Upper Gully | ||||||
23 | ★★★ Lunatic | 25m, 3 | ★★ Muy buena | |||
Sáb 16.º Mar 2019 - Mt Stapylton Amphitheatre | ||||||
Taipan Wall - South | ||||||
28 | ★★★ Anaconda | 60m, 8 | ★★★ Clásico | |||
Dom 24.º Feb 2019 - Mt Stapylton Amphitheatre | ||||||
Taipan Wall - South | ||||||
28 | ★★★ Venom | 60m, 4 | ★★★ Clásico | |||
Vie 8.º Dic 2017 - Victoria Range | ||||||
Mt Fox Area Muline Crag | ||||||
28 27 | ★★★ Desert Rose | 30m, 8 | ★★★ Clásico | |||
28 with the top pitch (which is a must do) is about right in my opinion
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Lun 17.º Abr 2017 - Victoria Range | ||||||
Eureka Area Eureka Wall | ||||||
23 | ★★ Diminishing Returns (Top Half) | 30m, 5 | ★★ Muy buena | |||
25 | ★★★ Vege Maths | 30m, 8 | ★★ Muy buena | |||
Sáb 8.º Abr 2017 - Mt Stapylton Amphitheatre | ||||||
Taipan Wall - South | ||||||
26 | ★★ Snake Flake | 25m, 4 | ★★★ Clásico | |||
Dom 12.º Mar 2017 - Victoria Range | ||||||
Mt Fox Area Muline Crag | ||||||
23 | ★★ Pocket Full of Dreams | 25m, 2 | ★★★ Clásico | |||
Mié 4.º En 2017 - Arapiles | ||||||
Central Gully Upper Central Gully Cecilia Wall | ||||||
22 | ★★ Cecilia | 25m, 4 | ★★ Muy buena | |||
Crap old carrots with bomber gear right next to a few...?????
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Mar 3.º En 2017 - Arapiles | ||||||
Northern Group Henry Bolte Wall | ||||||
26 | ★★ The Fortress - con Michael Tanner | 18m, 2 | ★★★ Clásico | |||
2nd go
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26 | ★★ Wackford Squeers | 30m, 3 | ★★★ Clásico | |||
Jue 22.º Dic 2016 - Arapiles | ||||||
The Pharos and Surrounds The Pharos South Face | ||||||
20 20 R | ★★ Dazed and Confused | 20m | ★★ Muy buena | |||
Jue 22.º Dic 2016 - Arapiles | ||||||
The Pharos and Surrounds The Pharos Back Wall | ||||||
14 | ★★★ Lamplighter | 78m | ★★★ Clásico | |||
Mié 21.º Dic 2016 - Arapiles | ||||||
Central Gully Upper Central Gully Mari Buttress | ||||||
20 | ★★ Electric Warrior | 30m | ★★ Muy buena | |||
Mié 21.º Dic 2016 - Arapiles | ||||||
Fang Buttress and Surrounds Major Mitchell Gully Morfydd Wall | ||||||
19 | ★★★ Morfydd | 30m | ★★★ Clásico | |||
Mié 21.º Dic 2016 - Arapiles | ||||||
The Watchtower Faces Left Watchtower Face | ||||||
15 | ★★ Sundance | 140m | ★★ Muy buena | |||
Mié 21.º Dic 2016 - Arapiles | ||||||
Castle Crag | ||||||
11 | ★★ Trapeze | 20m | ★★★ Clásico | |||
Mié 21.º Dic 2016 - Arapiles | ||||||
Tiger Wall Area Tiger Wall Under Flinders Lane Wall | ||||||
15 | ★★ Kaiser | 110m | ★★ Muy buena | |||
Jue 24.º Nov 2016 - Arapiles | ||||||
The Watchtower Faces Right Watchtower Face | ||||||
16 16 R | ★★★ Brolga | 90m | ★★★ Clásico |