Schwierigkeitsgrad | Route | Stil | Qualität | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
Sa 25. Mai 2024 - Bungonia Gorge | ||||||
North Wall - Main | ||||||
22 |
★★★ Strangeness and Charm
3
22
35m
4
22
20m
| 55m, 20 | ★★★ Klassiker | |||
Climbed via wailing cockatoos. Great day out!
|
||||||
22 | ★★★ Wailing Cockatoo | 45m, 5 | ★★★ Klassiker | |||
Mi 22. Mai 2024 - Blue Lake | ||||||
Elephant Buttress | ||||||
20 | ★★★ Trunkline | 30m | ★★★ Klassiker | |||
Sa 18. Mai 2024 - Arapiles | ||||||
Northern Group Echo Crag | ||||||
22 | ★★ Honeycomb | 30m | ★★ Sehr gut | |||
Sa 18. Mai 2024 - Arapiles | ||||||
Central Gully Central Gully Left Brick Wall | ||||||
22 | ★★★ Squeakeasy | 30m | ★★★ Klassiker | |||
Do 16. Mai 2024 - Mt Stapylton Amphitheatre | ||||||
Taipan Wall - North | ||||||
24 M1 schwer | ★★★ Dance of Life | 35m, 2 | ★★★ Mega-Klassiker | |||
Fell going for the last crimp before the juggy horizontal break 2m from the top. I waxed lyrical about how good Clean Sweep is but this could be even better? For the first 2/3rds it’s slightly easier and much better protected than its compatriot to the left, but whereas Clean Sweep eases off in the top 15m Dance of Life just keeps going. I’m not sure the crimp moves are necessarily that much harder than the rest of the climb, but compared to CS it’s just so sustained for a full 40 odd metres…
Didn’t take enough long slings so rope drag was pretty awful in the top 10m or so - lesson learned there. Best bit about dropping an onsight like this right at the top is having the excuse to go do it again. |
||||||
Mi 15. Mai 2024 - Arapiles | ||||||
Northern Group High Dive Gully | ||||||
21 | ★★★ A Taste of Honey | 27m | ★★★ Klassiker | |||
23 | ★★★ High Dive | 25m | ★★ Sehr gut | |||
Mo 13. Mai 2024 - Arapiles | ||||||
Far North PB Gully | ||||||
23 | ★★ PB | 23m | ★★ Sehr gut | |||
Do 9. Mai 2024 - Arapiles | ||||||
Voodoo Area New Image Wall | ||||||
22 | ★★ Hidden Secrets | 25m | ★★ Sehr gut | |||
20 | ★★★ New Image | 25m | ★★★ Klassiker | |||
Di 7. Mai 2024 - Arapiles | ||||||
Voodoo Area Voodoo Buttress | ||||||
20 ~21 | ★★ Wasp | 30m | ★★ Sehr gut | |||
21 | ★★★ Chinese Algebra | 48m | ★★★ Klassiker | |||
So 5. Mai 2024 - Arapiles | ||||||
Central Gully Central Gully Left Hellspite Wall | ||||||
22 | ★★ Straw Dogs | 11m | ★ Gut | |||
So 5. Mai 2024 - Arapiles | ||||||
Central Gully Central Gully Left Pebbles and Bam Bam | ||||||
22 | ★★ Pebbles | 12m | ★ Gut | |||
Do 2. Mai 2024 - Arapiles | ||||||
Organ Pipes Area Organ Pipes The Red Wall & Toccata Wall | ||||||
21 | ★★ The Wraith | 35m | ★★ Sehr gut | |||
Sa 6. Apr 2024 - Arapiles | ||||||
The Pharos and Surrounds The Pharos Uncle Charlie | ||||||
28 | ★★ The Great Escape | 20m, 4 | ★★ Sehr gut | |||
Fr 5. Apr 2024 - Arapiles | ||||||
Bluffs Bluff Major Bluff Major West Face | ||||||
27 ~28 | ★★★ FinaI Departure | 27m, 7 | ★★ Sehr gut | |||
Fr 5. Apr 2024 - Arapiles | ||||||
Pilot Error Cliffs Lois Lane Wall | ||||||
25 | ★★★ Debutantes and Centipedes | 15m, 3 | ★★★ Klassiker | |||
Do 4. Apr 2024 - Arapiles | ||||||
The Pharos and Surrounds Yesterday Gully Upper Gully | ||||||
23 | ★★★ Fever Pitch | 30m, 2 | ★★★ Klassiker | |||
Mi 3. Apr 2024 - Arapiles | ||||||
King Rat Area King Rat Gully Right Fork | ||||||
22 | ★★ Glory Rodent | 20m | ★★ Sehr gut | |||
Mi 21. Feb 2024 - Arapiles | ||||||
Central Gully Central Gully Right Dreadnought Gully | ||||||
26 | ★★ Cecil B De Mille | 20m, 1 | ★ Gut | |||
Di 6. Feb 2024 - Mt Stapylton Amphitheatre | ||||||
Taipan Wall - North | ||||||
24 M1 | ★★★ Clean Sweep | 40m, 1 | ★★★ Mega-Klassiker | |||
Second shot after pumping out 2 moves before reaching easier ground on my onsight go. An immaculate climb, in my Taipan top 3 with Rage/Serp. Bears comparison with Archimedes' Principle. I though the aid requirement might detract from the experience but not at all. It was outrageous pulling under the hanging arete before establishing on good holds and turning the corner. Then there's 20 metres of perfect face climbing, decent holds the whole way but no really nice stances to place gear so you're on your arms the entire time.
It's bold for sure, I ran it out probably 6m through the most strenuous section on both the onsight and redpoint attempts. I could've placed another piece, maybe 2, but you'd need pretty wild endurance to stick around and do so. Let out a guttural yell on sticking the not-quite-a-jug that marked the end of the crux section & was almost too pumped to pull the last couple of moves to the horizontal break and easier ground above. 10/10, mega classic, would be worth the faff to pre-place gear if the ground-up approach doesn't appeal. Psyched! |
||||||
Mi 31. Jan 2024 - Mt Stapylton Amphitheatre | ||||||
Taipan Wall - North | ||||||
26 ~27 | ★★★ Father Oblivion | 52m, 7 | ★★ Sehr gut | |||
26 ~27 | ★★★ Sirocco — 2 Versuche | 52m, 5 | ★★★ Klassiker | |||
2nd go. not sure it’s any harder than Father Oblivion… crux went down 3rd attempt with a high right foot and a pogo.
|
||||||
Mo 29. Jan 2024 - Arapiles | ||||||
King Rat Area King Rat Gully Skydiver Wall | ||||||
23 schwer | ★★ Dead Metaphor | 25m | ★★ Sehr gut | |||
22 | ★★ Easy Does It | 12m, 2 | ★ Gut | |||
Mo 29. Jan 2024 - Arapiles | ||||||
Far North Lower Curtain Wall | ||||||
21 | ★★★ Comic Relief | 20m | ★★★ Klassiker | |||
Mo 29. Jan 2024 - Arapiles | ||||||
Central Gully Central Gully Right Starless Buttress | ||||||
22 leicht | ★★★ Los Endos | 40m | ★★★ Klassiker | |||
Do 18. Jan 2024 - Arapiles | ||||||
Central Gully Upper Central Gully Skyline Walls | ||||||
23 schwer | ★★ On High | 20m | ★★ Sehr gut | |||
Do 18. Jan 2024 - Arapiles | ||||||
Atridae The Flight Deck | ||||||
23 schwer | ★★★ Orestes | 40m | ★★★ Mega-Klassiker | |||
Di 26. Dez 2023 - Lake Huntley | ||||||
27 | ★★★ Deeper Water | 310m | ||||
Top 6 pitches. Some kind of introduction to conglomerate slab climbing…
|
||||||
So 24. Dez 2023 - Geryon & The Acropolis | ||||||
The Acropolis North Face | ||||||
21 | ★★★ Old Wave Heroes | 240m | ★★★ Klassiker | |||
Sa 11. Nov 2023 - Mt Stapylton Amphitheatre | ||||||
Taipan Wall - North | ||||||
29 schwer | ★★★ Rage | 35m, 7 | ★★★ Mega-Klassiker | |||
Hard sport climbing par excellence. They simply do not get better. 12 days work since the middle of August. Definitely a sandbag, I’d give it hard 29 to the break where it meets Serpentine, with a pumpy 27 to the top. Maybe close to 31?
|
||||||
Do 9. Nov 2023 - Arapiles | ||||||
Central Gully Upper Central Gully Cecilia Wall | ||||||
23 leicht | ★★★ Intransience | 25m | ★★ Sehr gut | |||
Mi 25. Okt 2023 - Arapiles | ||||||
Bluffs Bluff Major Bluff Major West Face | ||||||
25 | ★★★ Station to Station | 22m, 4 | ★★ Sehr gut | |||
Do 19. Okt 2023 - Moonarie | ||||||
Callitris Corner | ||||||
22 | ★ metal storm | |||||
23 | ★★★ Grope Session | 40m | ★★★ Klassiker | |||
23 | ★★★ Grope Session | 40m | ★★★ Klassiker | |||
Do 19. Okt 2023 - Moonarie | ||||||
The Ramparts | ||||||
23 | ★★★ Goblin Mischief | 50m, 1 | ★★★ Mega-Klassiker | |||
23 | ★★★ Jenny Craig Moonarie Summer Camp, Activity One; The Endless Pitch | 45m, 1 | ★★★ Klassiker | |||
24 | ★★★ Sweeping Statement | 45m | ★★★ Mega-Klassiker | |||
20 | ★★ Sweeping Statement Pitch 1 | 20m | ★★★ Klassiker | |||
19 | ★★ Dwarfism | 50m | ★★ Sehr gut | |||
23 | Nemesis Variant Finish | 49m | ||||
22 | ★★★ Nemesis | 130m | ||||
22 | ★★★ Expiry Date | 55m | ★★★ Klassiker | |||
Do 19. Okt 2023 - Moonarie | ||||||
Great Wall Area | ||||||
22 | ★★★ Dry Land | 45m | ★★★ Klassiker | |||
19 | ★★★ Downwind of Angels | 40m | ★★★ Mega-Klassiker | |||
So 1. Okt 2023 - Arapiles | ||||||
Bluffs Bluff Major Bluff Major North Face | ||||||
17 R | ★★★ Missing Link | 30m | ★★★ Klassiker | |||
So 1. Okt 2023 - Arapiles | ||||||
Bluffs Bluff Major Bluff Major West Face | ||||||
23 | ★★★ Despatched | 40m, 2 | ★★★ Mega-Klassiker | |||
Ooh boy what a magical route. Sustained, exposed, exciting, and in one of the most spectacular areas of the mount. Stoked to get the onsight!
|
||||||
20 | ★★★ Thunder Crack | 30m | ★★★ Klassiker | |||
Second go having fallen off some years ago. Two laps (RP + second)
|
||||||
Sa 30. Sep 2023 - Arapiles | ||||||
Fang Buttress and Surrounds Major Mitchell Gully Morfydd Wall | ||||||
19 | ★★ Firedance | 15m | ★ Gut | |||
Sa 30. Sep 2023 - Arapiles | ||||||
Central Gully Central Gully Right Dreadnought Gully | ||||||
22 | ★★ Dreadnought Variant | 12m | ★★ Sehr gut | |||
Do 28. Sep 2023 - Arapiles | ||||||
Fang Buttress and Surrounds Major Mitchell Gully Morfydd Wall | ||||||
22 | ★★ Feral Chicken | 20m, 1 | ||||
19 | ★★★ Morfydd | 30m | ★★★ Klassiker | |||
Mo 25. Sep 2023 - Mt Stapylton Amphitheatre | ||||||
Taipan Wall - North | ||||||
26 ~27 | ★★★ Father Oblivion | 52m, 7 | ★★ Sehr gut | |||
So 17. Sep 2023 - Mt Stapylton Amphitheatre | ||||||
Central Buttress | ||||||
18 | ★★★ Simpleton | 85m, 2 | ★★★ Klassiker | |||
Do 14. Sep 2023 - Arapiles | ||||||
The Watchtower Faces Right Watchtower Face | ||||||
21 R |
★★★ Auto Da Fe
1
2
Linked p2/3
3
| 90m | ★★★ Klassiker | |||
Do 14. Sep 2023 - Arapiles | ||||||
The Pharos and Surrounds The Pharos Back Wall | ||||||
19 | ★★★ Judgement Day | 67m, 1 | ★★★ Klassiker | |||
Di 5. Sep 2023 - Arapiles | ||||||
The Pharos and Surrounds Yesterday Gully Lower Gully | ||||||
22 | ★★★ In Lemon Butter | 15m | ★★ Sehr gut | |||
Mo 14. Aug 2023 - Arapiles | ||||||
Central Gully Central Gully Left Dog Face | ||||||
18 | ★★ Jackal | 25m | ||||
18 | ★★ Howling Wolf | 28m | ||||
Mo 14. Aug 2023 - Arapiles | ||||||
Central Gully Central Gully Left Moby Dick Pinnacle | ||||||
18 | ★★ Hyaena | 16m | ||||
another day another victim. 2nd go.
|
||||||
Sa 12. Aug 2023 - Arapiles | ||||||
Central Gully Central Gully Left Moby Dick Pinnacle | ||||||
17 | ★★ Moby Dick | 15m | ★★ Sehr gut | |||
Sa 12. Aug 2023 - Arapiles | ||||||
The Pharos and Surrounds The Pharos Death Row Pinnacle | ||||||
18 | ★★★ Death Row | 45m | ★★★ Klassiker | |||
Sa 12. Aug 2023 - Arapiles | ||||||
The Pharos and Surrounds The Pharos Front Wall and West Face | ||||||
17 | ★★★ Oceanoid | 75m | ★★ Sehr gut | |||
Mi 9. Aug 2023 - Arapiles | ||||||
Pilot Error Cliffs Lois Lane Wall | ||||||
20 | ★★ Excuse me Lex | 32m | ★★ Sehr gut | |||
Mi 9. Aug 2023 - Arapiles | ||||||
Atridae Agamemnon Area | ||||||
19 | ★★ Telemachus | 35m | ★★ Sehr gut | |||
22 | ★★ Collision Course | 30m | ★★ Sehr gut | |||
Mo 7. Aug 2023 - Arapiles | ||||||
Organ Pipes Area Organ Pipes Gully Organ Pipes Gully Right Side | ||||||
19 | ★★★ Lemmington | 30m | ★★★ Klassiker | |||
Mo 7. Aug 2023 - Arapiles | ||||||
Organ Pipes Area Organ Pipes D Minor Pinnacle | ||||||
18 | ★★ Aardvark | 18m | ★★ Sehr gut | |||
Mo 7. Aug 2023 - Arapiles | ||||||
The Pharos and Surrounds Pharos Gully Ethereal Buttress | ||||||
21 | ★★ Ethereal | 20m | ★★ Sehr gut | |||
21 | ★★ Running on Empty | 20m | ★★ Sehr gut | |||
Do 3. Aug 2023 - Arapiles | ||||||
The Watchtower Faces Right Watchtower Face | ||||||
18 | ★★★ Skink | 110m | ★★★ Mega-Klassiker | |||
Mi 2. Aug 2023 - Arapiles | ||||||
Organ Pipes Area Organ Pipes The Red Wall & Toccata Wall | ||||||
19 | ★★★ Tannin | 35m | ★★★ Klassiker | |||
Mo 31. Jul 2023 - Arapiles | ||||||
Far North Lower Curtain Wall | ||||||
18 | ★★★ Entertainer | 20m | ★★★ Klassiker | |||
19 | ★★ Sideshow | 35m | ★★ Sehr gut | |||
Alzheimer’s onsight
|
||||||
Mo 31. Jul 2023 - Arapiles | ||||||
Far North Vandal Area | ||||||
18 | ★★ Sweet Surrender | 60m | ||||
Pitch 1
|
||||||
Mi 30. Mär 2022 - Arapiles | ||||||
Central Gully Central Gully Left Brick Wall | ||||||
22 | ★★★ Squeakeasy | 30m | ★★★ Klassiker | |||
Mo 30. Sep 2019 - Arapiles | ||||||
The Pharos and Surrounds Yesterday Gully Lower Gully | ||||||
22 | ★★ White Heat | 20m | ★★ Sehr gut | |||
Di 14. Mai 2019 - Arapiles | ||||||
The Pharos and Surrounds Yesterday Gully Upper Gully | ||||||
23 | ★★★ Lunatic | 25m, 3 | ★★ Sehr gut | |||
Sa 16. Mär 2019 - Mt Stapylton Amphitheatre | ||||||
Taipan Wall - South | ||||||
28 | ★★★ Anaconda | 60m, 8 | ★★★ Klassiker | |||
So 24. Feb 2019 - Mt Stapylton Amphitheatre | ||||||
Taipan Wall - South | ||||||
28 | ★★★ Venom | 60m, 4 | ★★★ Klassiker | |||
Fr 8. Dez 2017 - Victoria Range | ||||||
Mt Fox Area Muline Crag | ||||||
28 27 | ★★★ Desert Rose | 30m, 8 | ★★★ Klassiker | |||
28 with the top pitch (which is a must do) is about right in my opinion
|
||||||
Mo 17. Apr 2017 - Victoria Range | ||||||
Eureka Area Eureka Wall | ||||||
23 | ★★ Diminishing Returns (Top Half) | 30m, 5 | ★★ Sehr gut | |||
25 | ★★★ Vege Maths | 30m, 8 | ★★ Sehr gut | |||
Sa 8. Apr 2017 - Mt Stapylton Amphitheatre | ||||||
Taipan Wall - South | ||||||
26 | ★★ Snake Flake | 25m, 4 | ★★★ Klassiker | |||
So 12. Mär 2017 - Victoria Range | ||||||
Mt Fox Area Muline Crag | ||||||
23 | ★★ Pocket Full of Dreams | 25m, 2 | ★★★ Klassiker | |||
Mi 4. Jan 2017 - Arapiles | ||||||
Central Gully Upper Central Gully Cecilia Wall | ||||||
22 | ★★ Cecilia | 25m, 4 | ★★ Sehr gut | |||
Crap old carrots with bomber gear right next to a few...?????
|
||||||
Di 3. Jan 2017 - Arapiles | ||||||
Northern Group Henry Bolte Wall | ||||||
26 | ★★ The Fortress - mit Michael Tanner | 18m, 2 | ★★★ Klassiker | |||
2nd go
|
||||||
26 | ★★ Wackford Squeers | 30m, 3 | ★★★ Klassiker | |||
Do 22. Dez 2016 - Arapiles | ||||||
The Pharos and Surrounds The Pharos South Face | ||||||
20 20 R | ★★ Dazed and Confused | 20m | ★★ Sehr gut | |||
Do 22. Dez 2016 - Arapiles | ||||||
The Pharos and Surrounds The Pharos Back Wall | ||||||
14 | ★★★ Lamplighter | 78m | ★★★ Klassiker | |||
Mi 21. Dez 2016 - Arapiles | ||||||
Central Gully Upper Central Gully Mari Buttress | ||||||
20 | ★★ Electric Warrior | 30m | ★★ Sehr gut | |||
Mi 21. Dez 2016 - Arapiles | ||||||
Fang Buttress and Surrounds Major Mitchell Gully Morfydd Wall | ||||||
19 | ★★★ Morfydd | 30m | ★★★ Klassiker | |||
Mi 21. Dez 2016 - Arapiles | ||||||
The Watchtower Faces Left Watchtower Face | ||||||
15 | ★★ Sundance | 140m | ★★ Sehr gut | |||
Mi 21. Dez 2016 - Arapiles | ||||||
Castle Crag | ||||||
11 | ★★ Trapeze | 20m | ★★★ Klassiker | |||
Mi 21. Dez 2016 - Arapiles | ||||||
Tiger Wall Area Tiger Wall Under Flinders Lane Wall | ||||||
15 | ★★ Kaiser | 110m | ★★ Sehr gut | |||
Do 24. Nov 2016 - Arapiles | ||||||
The Watchtower Faces Right Watchtower Face | ||||||
16 16 R | ★★★ Brolga | 90m | ★★★ Klassiker |