Hilfe

PB Gully

  • Bewertungskontext: AU
  • Begehungen: 124

Saisonalität

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Beschreibung

Emergency Location: Mount Arapiles, PB Gully Area

Einschränk. übernommen von Arapiles

Cultural heritage closures now apply to some parts of Arapiles. This advice continues to evolve and may not be fully reflected in this website; refer to Parks Victoria for details applicable at the time of your visit. https://www.parks.vic.gov.au/-/media/project/pv/main/parks/documents/management-plans/mount-arapiles-tooan-state-park/mount-arapiles-tooan-state-park---aboriginal-cultural-heritage-protections---october-2020.pdf

Bird Nesting September-December Raptors usually nest on the following climbs in Spring : Cassandra, Eurydice, Harlequin Cracks, Revelations. Nesting usually finishes mid-December. There may or may not be signs in place at these times. Please keep 50m clear of these climbs if there appears to be nesting activity.

State Park - no dogs. No fires allowed Oct-Apr (inclusive).

Ethik übernommen von Arapiles

Mount Arapiles is first and foremost a trad climbing area. The few sport climbs tend to be in the higher grades where no natural pro is available.

Bolting, particularly retro-bolting, is discouraged and should only be undertaken after extensive consultation with the local climbers, first ascensionists, etc. Inappropriately placed bolts have been chopped.

Do not chip the rock.

Look after the park.

  • Stick to the paths.

  • Don't disturb the wildlife.

  • Routes near peregrine falcon nesting sites are closed in the spring.

  • Minimise the impact of your camping (fuel stoves not fires, take your rubbish with you, etc).

Tags

Einige Inhalte wurden unter folgender Lizenz bereitgestellt: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)

Routen

Route(n) hinzufügen Topo hinzufügen Neu sortieren Stapelbearbeitung Konvert. Grade
Schwierigkeitsgrad Route

On the southern side of the gully, directly opposite PB is a small wall up on a terrace. In middle of wall is obvious crack (allegedly grade 6). Probably best approached through the notch from Nameless Gully.

Thin seam on black streak at left end of wall, using left arete where necessary.

Erstbegehung: Glen Donohue & Peter Cunningham, 1987

Starts just right of Black Legend at the right-slanting line. This could be the ‘’obvious grade 6 crack’’ mentioned in the Black Legend description. Climb the right-slanting line for a few metres, step left at horizontal break and continue up the centre of the wall.

Erstbegehung: Keith Lockwood, Tibor Janos, Kieran Loughran & Kieran Loughran, 1 Aug 2018

Climb the unassuming but nice wall between Eddie Mabo and Is The Pope A Catholic.

Erstbegehung: Kieran Loughran, Tibor Janos & Keith Lockwood, 1 Aug 2018

Line 4 metres right of Grade 6 crack.

Erstbegehung: Peter Cunningham & Glenn Donohue, 1987

Climb the seam up the middle of the clean wall right of Is The Pope A Catholic.

Erstbegehung: Keith Lockwood, Tibor Janos & Kieran Loughran, 1 Aug 2018

The gully gets quite steep and fragile so the upper section is best accessed from above by abseil from trees (separate rap rope is useful).

Companion route to The Land That Time Forgot. Take some biggish cams. Approach by abseil.

Bridge the deep-set corner a few metres left of The Land That Time Forgot. Exit right and continue up the pleasant easy crack in the headwall. This crack is clearly visible from the Telstra tower.

Erstbegehung: Keith Lockwood & Kieran Loughran, 14 Sep 2018

One of the remotest, most primeval parts of 'Arapiles'. A rewarding adventure. Good climbing too. It's clearly visible from the Telstra tower - the big grey wall across the valley. Approach by abseil.

Skirt clifftop around left (northish) to head of 'PB Gully'. Down gully system to the main wall.

Steeply into right-facing corner which is followed until a terrace appears up on the right. Don't be tempted. Instead, step left and up centre of wall, finishing over central overhang and headwall.

Erstbegehung: Keith Lockwood & Kieran Loughran, 2005

Thin flake at upper end of main section of gully. Hard move right to ledge then easy climbing.

Erstbegehung: Kim Carrigan & Mark Moorhead, 1979

Start as for 'Impasse', traverse 4m R, go up 2m, then traverse back 3m! Now go up via a desperate crux, then up steep wall on brilliant rock and holds. Chain on ledge above topout.

Alternatively, clip the bolt on the direct start, batman up and head R into the crux. Less hassle and still 25.

Originally done with very high side runners to the L of the crux.

Erstbegehung: Kim Carrigan & Chris Shepherd, 1982

Open project past a bolt. A couple of pretty hard moves.

Wandery but good climbing. Start at a pair of horizontal breaks 4 metres right of 'Temporary Imbalance'. Up to second horizontal, traverse R 4m, go up 2m then diagonally right (not straight up the seam) and up the concavity on pockets and blind holds. Diagonally left to finish. Chain on wall above topout.

Erstbegehung: Mark Moorhead & Jon Muir, 1981

Start up PB, at the horizontal go diagonally left and through the bulge to join Impasse at horizontals. Using some of the crux holds on Impasse, move up and slightly right on pockets and then move left and up to finish. Chains on ledge above. Probably the best of the 24s/25s in the gully, though Blockade is very good too.

The "R" comes from the scary start of PB, the rest of the route is well protected.

Erstbegehung: Ben Wiessner, Douglas Hockly & Jack Jane, Okt 2015

The dominant line on the wall is sustained and has just enough small but good protection on the difficult start - which is the crux.

Rings above this also service Tangent.

Erstbegehung: Tim Beaman, 1976

Scary up the shallow corner and thin wall to join PB

Erstbegehung: Mark Moorhead

How hard is this really? Start up PB and continue straight up past two impossible moves.

Erstbegehung: Stuart Williams & Dave Nelson, 1989

Nathan Hoette spent 2 days on this. Even Malcolm Matheson didn't onsight it. It's a shame this has one of the most holdless bums at Arapiles in it - the rest is quite nice 22.

Erstbegehung: Rod Young & Mark Moorhead, 1979

Devious line starting as for 'Tangent'. Up through the bulge (crux) past RP's / small wires then R to seam just L of Tangent. Up and L to next break, then R and through roof.

Erstbegehung: Kim Carrigan, 1982

Start up easy grey crack 2 metres right of 'Heavy Horses'. Traverse right then follow short, left-leaning bottomless crack and head diagonally right to arete.

Erstbegehung: Mark Moorhead & Rod Young, 1979

Tangent direct. Reach problem 3 metres right of start of Tangent. Finish direct through the roof as for Angles Up.

Erstbegehung: Kim Carrigan & Nick Plishko, 1982

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Datum: 2016

ISBN: 9780987526427

This selected yet in depth guide, in its third edition in 2016, is a must for first timers or regulars to the "Pines". By Simon Mentz and Glenn Tempest. It features 1200 routes over 23 different areas as well as bouldering, history info on flora and fauna, plus heaps more.

Autor(en): Gordon Poultney, Simon Carter

Datum: 2013

ISBN: 9780987087461

444 of the best routes on the best stone on earth? Yes Please! Who has time for all those other wondering pitches anyway when Gordon Poultney and Simon Carter have picked out the classics and printed it in a pocket size handy guide with string attachment. You'll take it on the multipitches, you'll take it to read in the toilets, you'll take it everywhere!

Autor(en): Lindorff, Goding & Hodgson

Datum: 2011

ISBN: 9780646529387

Get ready to fully experience the rock climbing scene in Victoria with Sublime Climbs, a comprehensive guidebook authored by Kevin Lindorff, Josef Goding, and Jarrod Hodgson. This full-color, 380-page book covers the best climbing locations in the region, including Mt Arapiles, Mt Buffalo, and the Grampians. It features descriptions of over 700 routes, topographic maps, and breathtaking images. Whether you're a seasoned pro or new to the sport, Sublime Climbs has everything you need to make the most of your climbing experience in Victoria and experience all of it's classic routes.

Unterkünfte in der Nähe mehr Verbergen

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Mo 5 Jun
Finde heraus, was in PB Gully passiert.

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