★★★ Lamplighter 14

Bewertungskontext: AU
Länge: 78m
Seillängen: 3
Begehungen: 1241

TRADITIONELL

1 10 30m

2 14 30m

3 13 18m

Beschreibung

An excellent climb tiptoeing its way up the back wall with lashing of exposure. Provides some relief from the sun until late afternoon.

Start: Start on a ledge down low on the left where an obvious ramp leads up right.

30m (10) Following the ramp to its end, then left to big ledge.
30m (14) Up short corner on the right, old peg (back it up), then tend right up cracks to base of chimney. Near the top there are a couple of options but the best is an unlikely step right and up the face.
18m (13) Up chimney to roof, then chimney back out through roof to DBB.

ganztags Schatten

Historie der Route

Sep 1965	Erstbegehung:

Position

Breite/Länge: -36.75388, 141.84067

Einige Inhalte wurden unter folgender Lizenz bereitgestellt: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)

Schwierigkeitsgrad-Referenzen

10,14,13	Schwierigkeitsgrad
14	★★★ RockGUIDE: Victoria
14	★★★ A Rockclimbers Guide to Arapiles/Djurite
14	★★★ Arapiles, Selected Climbs
16 [16 - 16] ++	grAId

Ethik

Mount Arapiles is first and foremost a trad climbing area. The few sport climbs tend to be in the higher grades where no natural pro is available.

Bolting, particularly retro-bolting, is discouraged and should only be undertaken after extensive consultation with the local climbers, first ascensionists, etc. Inappropriately placed bolts have been chopped.

Do not chip the rock.

Look after the park.

Stick to the paths.
Don't disturb the wildlife.
Routes near peregrine falcon nesting sites are closed in the spring.
Minimise the impact of your camping (fuel stoves not fires, take your rubbish with you, etc).

übernommen von Arapiles

Saisonalität

Qualität

Mega-Klassiker
Klassiker
Sehr gut
Gut
Durchschnitt
Vergiss es
Schrott

Gesamtqualität 83 aus 702 Bewertungen.

Schwierigkeit - 14

sehr leicht
leicht
normal
schwer
sehr schwer

Basiert auf 36 Bewertungen.

Vorgeschlagener Grad

14
15
16

Basiert auf 36 Bewertungen.

Begehungsarten

Onsight	404	404
Flash	10	10
Rotpunkt	49	49
geklettert	282	282
Versuch	17	17
Ziel	11	11

Schlüsselworte in Bemerkungen

crux sandbag strenuous challenging hard difficult tough desperate unprotected intimidating horrifying terrifying horrendous scary committing fall ground fall tricky exposed weird adventurous jugs polished traverse dihedral shady epic bad crazy vertical fiddly mantle steep hands easy interesting slopey offwidth dry crack chimney awkward arete fist roof feet thrutchy face rest technical bridging fun amazing brilliant lovely exciting great superb incredible pleasant enjoyable rad super stoked beautiful fantastic perfect sweet ripper satisfying nice good awesome classic cool

Selected Guidebooks mehr Verbergen

Arapiles, Selected Climbs

Autor(en): Simon Mentz, Glenn Tempest

Datum: 2016

ISBN: 9780987526427

This selected yet in depth guide, in its third edition in 2016, is a must for first timers or regulars to the "Pines". By Simon Mentz and Glenn Tempest. It features 1200 routes over 23 different areas as well as bouldering, history info on flora and fauna, plus heaps more.

Kaufen

ⓘ

Arapiles 444 Of The Best Climbing Guide

Autor(en): Gordon Poultney, Simon Carter

Datum: 2013

ISBN: 9780987087461

444 of the best routes on the best stone on earth? Yes Please! Who has time for all those other wondering pitches anyway when Gordon Poultney and Simon Carter have picked out the classics and printed it in a pocket size handy guide with string attachment. You'll take it on the multipitches, you'll take it to read in the toilets, you'll take it everywhere!

Kaufen

ⓘ

Sublimb Climbs

Autor(en): Lindorff, Goding & Hodgson

Datum: 2011

ISBN: 9780646529387

Get ready to fully experience the rock climbing scene in Victoria with Sublime Climbs, a comprehensive guidebook authored by Kevin Lindorff, Josef Goding, and Jarrod Hodgson. This full-color, 380-page book covers the best climbing locations in the region, including Mt Arapiles, Mt Buffalo, and the Grampians. It features descriptions of over 700 routes, topographic maps, and breathtaking images. Whether you're a seasoned pro or new to the sport, Sublime Climbs has everything you need to make the most of your climbing experience in Victoria and experience all of it's classic routes.

Kaufen

ⓘ