Cotation | Voie | Style d'escalade | Qualité | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
Sam 25 Mai 2024 - Bungonia Gorge | ||||||
North Wall - Main | ||||||
22 |
★★★ Strangeness and Charm
3
22
35m
4
22
20m
| 55m, 20 | ★★★ Classique | |||
Climbed via wailing cockatoos. Great day out!
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22 | ★★★ Wailing Cockatoo | 45m, 5 | ★★★ Classique | |||
Mer 22 Mai 2024 - Blue Lake | ||||||
Elephant Buttress | ||||||
20 | ★★★ Trunkline | 30m | ★★★ Classique | |||
Sam 18 Mai 2024 - Arapiles | ||||||
Northern Group Echo Crag | ||||||
22 | ★★ Honeycomb | 30m | ★★ Excellent | |||
Sam 18 Mai 2024 - Arapiles | ||||||
Central Gully Central Gully Left Brick Wall | ||||||
22 | ★★★ Squeakeasy | 30m | ★★★ Classique | |||
Jeu 16 Mai 2024 - Mt Stapylton Amphitheatre | ||||||
Taipan Wall - North | ||||||
24 M1 Difficile | ★★★ Dance of Life | 35m, 2 | ★★★ Super classique | |||
Fell going for the last crimp before the juggy horizontal break 2m from the top. I waxed lyrical about how good Clean Sweep is but this could be even better? For the first 2/3rds it’s slightly easier and much better protected than its compatriot to the left, but whereas Clean Sweep eases off in the top 15m Dance of Life just keeps going. I’m not sure the crimp moves are necessarily that much harder than the rest of the climb, but compared to CS it’s just so sustained for a full 40 odd metres…
Didn’t take enough long slings so rope drag was pretty awful in the top 10m or so - lesson learned there. Best bit about dropping an onsight like this right at the top is having the excuse to go do it again. |
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Mer 15 Mai 2024 - Arapiles | ||||||
Northern Group High Dive Gully | ||||||
21 | ★★★ A Taste of Honey | 27m | ★★★ Classique | |||
23 | ★★★ High Dive | 25m | ★★ Excellent | |||
Lun 13 Mai 2024 - Arapiles | ||||||
Far North PB Gully | ||||||
23 | ★★ PB | 23m | ★★ Excellent | |||
Jeu 9 Mai 2024 - Arapiles | ||||||
Voodoo Area New Image Wall | ||||||
22 | ★★ Hidden Secrets | 25m | ★★ Excellent | |||
20 | ★★★ New Image | 25m | ★★★ Classique | |||
Mar 7 Mai 2024 - Arapiles | ||||||
Voodoo Area Voodoo Buttress | ||||||
20 ~21 | ★★ Wasp | 30m | ★★ Excellent | |||
21 | ★★★ Chinese Algebra | 48m | ★★★ Classique | |||
Dim 5 Mai 2024 - Arapiles | ||||||
Central Gully Central Gully Left Hellspite Wall | ||||||
22 | ★★ Straw Dogs | 11m | ★ Bon | |||
Dim 5 Mai 2024 - Arapiles | ||||||
Central Gully Central Gully Left Pebbles and Bam Bam | ||||||
22 | ★★ Pebbles | 12m | ★ Bon | |||
Jeu 2 Mai 2024 - Arapiles | ||||||
Organ Pipes Area Organ Pipes The Red Wall & Toccata Wall | ||||||
21 | ★★ The Wraith | 35m | ★★ Excellent | |||
Sam 6 Avr 2024 - Arapiles | ||||||
The Pharos and Surrounds The Pharos Uncle Charlie | ||||||
28 | ★★ The Great Escape | 20m, 4 | ★★ Excellent | |||
Ven 5 Avr 2024 - Arapiles | ||||||
Bluffs Bluff Major Bluff Major West Face | ||||||
27 ~28 | ★★★ FinaI Departure | 27m, 7 | ★★ Excellent | |||
Ven 5 Avr 2024 - Arapiles | ||||||
Pilot Error Cliffs Lois Lane Wall | ||||||
25 | ★★★ Debutantes and Centipedes | 15m, 3 | ★★★ Classique | |||
Jeu 4 Avr 2024 - Arapiles | ||||||
The Pharos and Surrounds Yesterday Gully Upper Gully | ||||||
23 | ★★★ Fever Pitch | 30m, 2 | ★★★ Classique | |||
Mer 3 Avr 2024 - Arapiles | ||||||
King Rat Area King Rat Gully Right Fork | ||||||
22 | ★★ Glory Rodent | 20m | ★★ Excellent | |||
Mer 21 Fév 2024 - Arapiles | ||||||
Central Gully Central Gully Right Dreadnought Gully | ||||||
26 | ★★ Cecil B De Mille | 20m, 1 | ★ Bon | |||
Mar 6 Fév 2024 - Mt Stapylton Amphitheatre | ||||||
Taipan Wall - North | ||||||
24 M1 | ★★★ Clean Sweep | 40m, 1 | ★★★ Super classique | |||
Second shot after pumping out 2 moves before reaching easier ground on my onsight go. An immaculate climb, in my Taipan top 3 with Rage/Serp. Bears comparison with Archimedes' Principle. I though the aid requirement might detract from the experience but not at all. It was outrageous pulling under the hanging arete before establishing on good holds and turning the corner. Then there's 20 metres of perfect face climbing, decent holds the whole way but no really nice stances to place gear so you're on your arms the entire time.
It's bold for sure, I ran it out probably 6m through the most strenuous section on both the onsight and redpoint attempts. I could've placed another piece, maybe 2, but you'd need pretty wild endurance to stick around and do so. Let out a guttural yell on sticking the not-quite-a-jug that marked the end of the crux section & was almost too pumped to pull the last couple of moves to the horizontal break and easier ground above. 10/10, mega classic, would be worth the faff to pre-place gear if the ground-up approach doesn't appeal. Psyched! |
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Mer 31 Jan 2024 - Mt Stapylton Amphitheatre | ||||||
Taipan Wall - North | ||||||
26 ~27 | ★★★ Father Oblivion | 52m, 7 | ★★ Excellent | |||
26 ~27 | ★★★ Sirocco — 2 essais | 52m, 5 | ★★★ Classique | |||
2nd go. not sure it’s any harder than Father Oblivion… crux went down 3rd attempt with a high right foot and a pogo.
|
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Lun 29 Jan 2024 - Arapiles | ||||||
King Rat Area King Rat Gully Skydiver Wall | ||||||
23 Difficile | ★★ Dead Metaphor | 25m | ★★ Excellent | |||
22 | ★★ Easy Does It | 12m, 2 | ★ Bon | |||
Lun 29 Jan 2024 - Arapiles | ||||||
Far North Lower Curtain Wall | ||||||
21 | ★★★ Comic Relief | 20m | ★★★ Classique | |||
Lun 29 Jan 2024 - Arapiles | ||||||
Central Gully Central Gully Right Starless Buttress | ||||||
22 Facile | ★★★ Los Endos | 40m | ★★★ Classique | |||
Jeu 18 Jan 2024 - Arapiles | ||||||
Central Gully Upper Central Gully Skyline Walls | ||||||
23 Difficile | ★★ On High | 20m | ★★ Excellent | |||
Jeu 18 Jan 2024 - Arapiles | ||||||
Atridae The Flight Deck | ||||||
23 Difficile | ★★★ Orestes | 40m | ★★★ Super classique | |||
Mar 26 Déc 2023 - Lake Huntley | ||||||
27 | ★★★ Deeper Water | 310m | ||||
Top 6 pitches. Some kind of introduction to conglomerate slab climbing…
|
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Dim 24 Déc 2023 - Geryon & The Acropolis | ||||||
The Acropolis North Face | ||||||
21 | ★★★ Old Wave Heroes | 240m | ★★★ Classique | |||
Sam 11 Nov. 2023 - Mt Stapylton Amphitheatre | ||||||
Taipan Wall - North | ||||||
29 Difficile | ★★★ Rage | 35m, 7 | ★★★ Super classique | |||
Hard sport climbing par excellence. They simply do not get better. 12 days work since the middle of August. Definitely a sandbag, I’d give it hard 29 to the break where it meets Serpentine, with a pumpy 27 to the top. Maybe close to 31?
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Jeu 9 Nov. 2023 - Arapiles | ||||||
Central Gully Upper Central Gully Cecilia Wall | ||||||
23 Facile | ★★★ Intransience | 25m | ★★ Excellent | |||
Mer 25 Oct. 2023 - Arapiles | ||||||
Bluffs Bluff Major Bluff Major West Face | ||||||
25 | ★★★ Station to Station | 22m, 4 | ★★ Excellent | |||
Jeu 19 Oct. 2023 - Moonarie | ||||||
Callitris Corner | ||||||
22 | ★ metal storm | |||||
23 | ★★★ Grope Session | 40m | ★★★ Classique | |||
23 | ★★★ Grope Session | 40m | ★★★ Classique | |||
Jeu 19 Oct. 2023 - Moonarie | ||||||
The Ramparts | ||||||
23 | ★★★ Goblin Mischief | 50m, 1 | ★★★ Super classique | |||
23 | ★★★ Jenny Craig Moonarie Summer Camp, Activity One; The Endless Pitch | 45m, 1 | ★★★ Classique | |||
24 | ★★★ Sweeping Statement | 45m | ★★★ Super classique | |||
20 | ★★ Sweeping Statement Pitch 1 | 20m | ★★★ Classique | |||
19 | ★★ Dwarfism | 50m | ★★ Excellent | |||
23 | Nemesis Variant Finish | 49m | ||||
22 | ★★★ Nemesis | 130m | ||||
22 | ★★★ Expiry Date | 55m | ★★★ Classique | |||
Jeu 19 Oct. 2023 - Moonarie | ||||||
Great Wall Area | ||||||
22 | ★★★ Dry Land | 45m | ★★★ Classique | |||
19 | ★★★ Downwind of Angels | 40m | ★★★ Super classique | |||
Dim 1 Oct. 2023 - Arapiles | ||||||
Bluffs Bluff Major Bluff Major North Face | ||||||
17 R | ★★★ Missing Link | 30m | ★★★ Classique | |||
Dim 1 Oct. 2023 - Arapiles | ||||||
Bluffs Bluff Major Bluff Major West Face | ||||||
23 | ★★★ Despatched | 40m, 2 | ★★★ Super classique | |||
Ooh boy what a magical route. Sustained, exposed, exciting, and in one of the most spectacular areas of the mount. Stoked to get the onsight!
|
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20 | ★★★ Thunder Crack | 30m | ★★★ Classique | |||
Second go having fallen off some years ago. Two laps (RP + second)
|
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Sam 30 Sept 2023 - Arapiles | ||||||
Fang Buttress and Surrounds Major Mitchell Gully Morfydd Wall | ||||||
19 | ★★ Firedance | 15m | ★ Bon | |||
Sam 30 Sept 2023 - Arapiles | ||||||
Central Gully Central Gully Right Dreadnought Gully | ||||||
22 | ★★ Dreadnought Variant | 12m | ★★ Excellent | |||
Jeu 28 Sept 2023 - Arapiles | ||||||
Fang Buttress and Surrounds Major Mitchell Gully Morfydd Wall | ||||||
22 | ★★ Feral Chicken | 20m, 1 | ||||
19 | ★★★ Morfydd | 30m | ★★★ Classique | |||
Lun 25 Sept 2023 - Mt Stapylton Amphitheatre | ||||||
Taipan Wall - North | ||||||
26 ~27 | ★★★ Father Oblivion | 52m, 7 | ★★ Excellent | |||
Dim 17 Sept 2023 - Mt Stapylton Amphitheatre | ||||||
Central Buttress | ||||||
18 | ★★★ Simpleton | 85m, 2 | ★★★ Classique | |||
Jeu 14 Sept 2023 - Arapiles | ||||||
The Watchtower Faces Right Watchtower Face | ||||||
21 R |
★★★ Auto Da Fe
1
2
Linked p2/3
3
| 90m | ★★★ Classique | |||
Jeu 14 Sept 2023 - Arapiles | ||||||
The Pharos and Surrounds The Pharos Back Wall | ||||||
19 | ★★★ Judgement Day | 67m, 1 | ★★★ Classique | |||
Mar 5 Sept 2023 - Arapiles | ||||||
The Pharos and Surrounds Yesterday Gully Lower Gully | ||||||
22 | ★★★ In Lemon Butter | 15m | ★★ Excellent | |||
Lun 14 Août 2023 - Arapiles | ||||||
Central Gully Central Gully Left Dog Face | ||||||
18 | ★★ Jackal | 25m | ||||
18 | ★★ Howling Wolf | 28m | ||||
Lun 14 Août 2023 - Arapiles | ||||||
Central Gully Central Gully Left Moby Dick Pinnacle | ||||||
18 | ★★ Hyaena | 16m | ||||
another day another victim. 2nd go.
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Sam 12 Août 2023 - Arapiles | ||||||
Central Gully Central Gully Left Moby Dick Pinnacle | ||||||
17 | ★★ Moby Dick | 15m | ★★ Excellent | |||
Sam 12 Août 2023 - Arapiles | ||||||
The Pharos and Surrounds The Pharos Death Row Pinnacle | ||||||
18 | ★★★ Death Row | 45m | ★★★ Classique | |||
Sam 12 Août 2023 - Arapiles | ||||||
The Pharos and Surrounds The Pharos Front Wall and West Face | ||||||
17 | ★★★ Oceanoid | 75m | ★★ Excellent | |||
Mer 9 Août 2023 - Arapiles | ||||||
Pilot Error Cliffs Lois Lane Wall | ||||||
20 | ★★ Excuse me Lex | 32m | ★★ Excellent | |||
Mer 9 Août 2023 - Arapiles | ||||||
Atridae Agamemnon Area | ||||||
19 | ★★ Telemachus | 35m | ★★ Excellent | |||
22 | ★★ Collision Course | 30m | ★★ Excellent | |||
Lun 7 Août 2023 - Arapiles | ||||||
Organ Pipes Area Organ Pipes Gully Organ Pipes Gully Right Side | ||||||
19 | ★★★ Lemmington | 30m | ★★★ Classique | |||
Lun 7 Août 2023 - Arapiles | ||||||
Organ Pipes Area Organ Pipes D Minor Pinnacle | ||||||
18 | ★★ Aardvark | 18m | ★★ Excellent | |||
Lun 7 Août 2023 - Arapiles | ||||||
The Pharos and Surrounds Pharos Gully Ethereal Buttress | ||||||
21 | ★★ Ethereal | 20m | ★★ Excellent | |||
21 | ★★ Running on Empty | 20m | ★★ Excellent | |||
Jeu 3 Août 2023 - Arapiles | ||||||
The Watchtower Faces Right Watchtower Face | ||||||
18 | ★★★ Skink | 110m | ★★★ Super classique | |||
Mer 2 Août 2023 - Arapiles | ||||||
Organ Pipes Area Organ Pipes The Red Wall & Toccata Wall | ||||||
19 | ★★★ Tannin | 35m | ★★★ Classique | |||
Lun 31 Juil 2023 - Arapiles | ||||||
Far North Lower Curtain Wall | ||||||
18 | ★★★ Entertainer | 20m | ★★★ Classique | |||
19 | ★★ Sideshow | 35m | ★★ Excellent | |||
Alzheimer’s onsight
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Lun 31 Juil 2023 - Arapiles | ||||||
Far North Vandal Area | ||||||
18 | ★★ Sweet Surrender | 60m | ||||
Pitch 1
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Mer 30 Mars 2022 - Arapiles | ||||||
Central Gully Central Gully Left Brick Wall | ||||||
22 | ★★★ Squeakeasy | 30m | ★★★ Classique | |||
Lun 30 Sept 2019 - Arapiles | ||||||
The Pharos and Surrounds Yesterday Gully Lower Gully | ||||||
22 | ★★ White Heat | 20m | ★★ Excellent | |||
Mar 14 Mai 2019 - Arapiles | ||||||
The Pharos and Surrounds Yesterday Gully Upper Gully | ||||||
23 | ★★★ Lunatic | 25m, 3 | ★★ Excellent | |||
Sam 16 Mars 2019 - Mt Stapylton Amphitheatre | ||||||
Taipan Wall - South | ||||||
28 | ★★★ Anaconda | 60m, 8 | ★★★ Classique | |||
Dim 24 Fév 2019 - Mt Stapylton Amphitheatre | ||||||
Taipan Wall - South | ||||||
28 | ★★★ Venom | 60m, 4 | ★★★ Classique | |||
Ven 8 Déc 2017 - Victoria Range | ||||||
Mt Fox Area Muline Crag | ||||||
28 27 | ★★★ Desert Rose | 30m, 8 | ★★★ Classique | |||
28 with the top pitch (which is a must do) is about right in my opinion
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Lun 17 Avr 2017 - Victoria Range | ||||||
Eureka Area Eureka Wall | ||||||
23 | ★★ Diminishing Returns (Top Half) | 30m, 5 | ★★ Excellent | |||
25 | ★★★ Vege Maths | 30m, 8 | ★★ Excellent | |||
Sam 8 Avr 2017 - Mt Stapylton Amphitheatre | ||||||
Taipan Wall - South | ||||||
26 | ★★ Snake Flake | 25m, 4 | ★★★ Classique | |||
Dim 12 Mars 2017 - Victoria Range | ||||||
Mt Fox Area Muline Crag | ||||||
23 | ★★ Pocket Full of Dreams | 25m, 2 | ★★★ Classique | |||
Mer 4 Jan 2017 - Arapiles | ||||||
Central Gully Upper Central Gully Cecilia Wall | ||||||
22 | ★★ Cecilia | 25m, 4 | ★★ Excellent | |||
Crap old carrots with bomber gear right next to a few...?????
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Mar 3 Jan 2017 - Arapiles | ||||||
Northern Group Henry Bolte Wall | ||||||
26 | ★★ The Fortress - avec Michael Tanner | 18m, 2 | ★★★ Classique | |||
2nd go
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26 | ★★ Wackford Squeers | 30m, 3 | ★★★ Classique | |||
Jeu 22 Déc 2016 - Arapiles | ||||||
The Pharos and Surrounds The Pharos South Face | ||||||
20 20 R | ★★ Dazed and Confused | 20m | ★★ Excellent | |||
Jeu 22 Déc 2016 - Arapiles | ||||||
The Pharos and Surrounds The Pharos Back Wall | ||||||
14 | ★★★ Lamplighter | 78m | ★★★ Classique | |||
Mer 21 Déc 2016 - Arapiles | ||||||
Central Gully Upper Central Gully Mari Buttress | ||||||
20 | ★★ Electric Warrior | 30m | ★★ Excellent | |||
Mer 21 Déc 2016 - Arapiles | ||||||
Fang Buttress and Surrounds Major Mitchell Gully Morfydd Wall | ||||||
19 | ★★★ Morfydd | 30m | ★★★ Classique | |||
Mer 21 Déc 2016 - Arapiles | ||||||
The Watchtower Faces Left Watchtower Face | ||||||
15 | ★★ Sundance | 140m | ★★ Excellent | |||
Mer 21 Déc 2016 - Arapiles | ||||||
Castle Crag | ||||||
11 | ★★ Trapeze | 20m | ★★★ Classique | |||
Mer 21 Déc 2016 - Arapiles | ||||||
Tiger Wall Area Tiger Wall Under Flinders Lane Wall | ||||||
15 | ★★ Kaiser | 110m | ★★ Excellent | |||
Jeu 24 Nov. 2016 - Arapiles | ||||||
The Watchtower Faces Right Watchtower Face | ||||||
16 16 R | ★★★ Brolga | 90m | ★★★ Classique |