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등급 | 루트 | 장비 스타일 | 인기도 | ||
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Upper Tier Bouldering | |||||
V3 | The Humbleizer
Sit start on foot jug with RH layaway in front of big spike at left end of face. Up via hugging and more difficulty than seems reasonabl until able to climb around left to finish on foot ledge on east face. | 3m | |||
V7 | ★★ Still Lost and Lethal
Extends LAL left via more tenuous moves to gain arete, eventually finishing at the foot ledge on the east face. | 5m | |||
V6 | Lost and Lethal
Sharp sit start 1.5m left of BVL. Layaway edges up and left via small flat tops and continue left to good layaway just inside arête | ||||
V5 | ★ BV Left Sit
Sit start with LH gaston (LaL start) and low RH layaway. Push up right to join BVL at very thin flake. | 3m | |||
V3 | ★ Bon Voyage Left
Stand start on very thin lay always a metre or 2 left of BVR. Pretty sharp! | 4m | |||
V2 | ★ Bon Voyage Right
Sit start as for the Golden Path. Up via large undercling to jug (or layaway jug up left if you feel inclined). V1 as a stand which makes one wonder why people are forever building cairns to get into the route! | 4m | |||
V4 | ★ The Golden Path
Sit Start 3m left of PUM stand on excellent golden edges. Traverse up and right to gain the stand start (the large undercling above is out, about V2 with it in). | 4m | |||
V8 | ★★★ Pumping Ugly Muscle Sit
Golden Path into PUM stand. Only V4 to the stand but sustained crimping tips it over the line. | 5m | |||
V7 | ★★ Pumping Ugly Muscle Stand
Start immediately below PUM bolt. Long hard move via thin undercling to poor edge (the large undercling further left is out). Finish at jug gaston/layaway beside bolt at 5m. | 5m | |||
V6 | ★ Half Man Half Crack Sit Start
Sit start with big underclings and make powerful moves into line until the obvious large side pulls at 4m (or just swallow the medicine and keep cranking through insecure groove to top) | 4m | |||
TR Boulder | |||||
Right Crack
Obvious vertical then stepped crack. Good climbing. | |||||
Central slab
Fairly blank wall between the obvious lines. Bring your chisel tips! | |||||
Diagonal seam
Beautiful rock... shame its so short. Seam to blunt arête. | |||||
26 | ★ Highball Crack
Undercut and difficult getting off the ground. Pull up on good locks and through the flaring groove above. Grade 14 above 5m, so makes a reasonable highball boulder problem... although has also been described as "insecure 24 exiting onto the slab at 6-7m with a big dead tree lying on the ground behind you", so you might want to rope it first! FA: Likely some gumbie in high tops. | 10m | |||
26 | ★★★ Spy Works
Half Man Half Crack then up thin bolted face above (3FH, DBB below capstone). The capstone can be climbed at about 14 on jugs for those committed to topping out. 2018- Apparently some douche has stolen the hangers (which can’t be reached from adjacent crack climbs) FA: Mark Rewi, 2015 | 15m, 3 | |||
24 | ★ Half Man, Half Spy
Up Half Man Half Biscuit then continue up the Spyworks headwall. Could be 25. FA: Mark Rewi | 15m | |||
17 | Half Man, Half Biscuit
A few of the locals think this is a bit mean at 17. Probably depends when you started climbing! | 15m | |||
20 | ★★ Gingerbread Man
Half Man Half Biscuit with added spice, this direct variant requires a little bit of jambing, laybacking, stemming and crimping - good value. Up HMHB to a tricky pull over the rooflet then, trending slightly right, follow the bolts up the steepening face. Finish at the top (DBB) or the SpyWorks lower-off below the summit cap. FA: Martin Jackson & David Nelson, 26 5월 2018 | 20m, 4 | |||
Dick Steel project
Closed Project. Vertical seams just around the arete from Gingerbread Man to shelf, continuing up the right side of the slab finishing at the Agent WD-40 loweroff. | 12m, 5 | ||||
17 | ★ Agent WD-40 | 12m, 5 | |||
28 | ★ Pumping Ugly Muscle
Re established via V7 boulder problem after start holds fell off many years ago. Start directly below first bolt via hard undercling (not the big incut... That's on ugly voyage) then continue. Rebolted 06/23 with bolts and glue provided by Safer Cliffs Victoria. | 30m, 6 | |||
26 | ★★ Ugly Voyage
Consensus 26 to avoid the broken bits of the previous routes. Climb to first bolt on BV then traverse into PUM and up. 7 RB. Rebolted 06/23. Bolts and glue provided by Safer Cliffs Victoria. | 20m, 7 | |||
25 | ★★ Bon Voyage
Rebolted 2021. Five U bolts to lower-off in the slabby scoop. Was originally climbed to the 4th bolt then swung out left onto the slab. FA: Andrew Cannon & Andrew Stevens, 1988 | 20m, 5 | |||
19 | ★ Barefoot and Pregnant
The right hand slab line round the corner from BV. Spaced RB's. DRB anchor and replaceable rap rings shared with Sink The Sausage added 04/23. Rebolted 12/23. Bolts and glue provided by Safer Cliffs Victoria. | 23m, 4 | |||
18 | ★ Sink the Sausage
Green slab past 4 RB's to DRB anchor. DRB and replaceable rap rings added 04/23, rebolted 11/23. Bolts and glue provided by Safer Cliffs Victoria. | 23m, 4 | |||
18 | ★★ Long Sausage
Slab past 4 RB to DRB Rebolted 03/23 Anchor added 12/23. Bolts and glue provided by Safer Cliffs Victoria. FA: Steven Wilson & Robin Holmes | 21m, 4 | |||
16 | ★ Long Neck Stubbies
Good edges leads to delicate slabbing. 4 RB to loweroff shared with Deceit. Rebolted 04/23 Bolts and glue provided by Safer Cliffs Victoria. | 21m, 4 | |||
14 | ★ Deceit
Delicate start to the 1st RB, then up on easier ground past 3 more RB to DRB loweroff. Rebolted and replaceable rap rings added to the DRB 04/23. Bolts and glue provided by Safer Cliffs Victoria. | 20m, 4 | |||
2 | Sideline
Fantastic introduction to lay backing. On the boulder just left of 'Deceit'. FA: Anne Watson & Pete Holmes, 2002 | 8m | |||
18 | ★ Castel Vlad
A good steep route with 2 carrot BRs, the top one unfortunately hidden under a layer of lichen. FA: Dayle Gilliatt & Chris Aicoboaie, 1995 | 10m, 2 | |||
21 | Bolt Ladder
| 6m, 3 | |||
17 | ★ The Moon
| 6m, 2 | |||
25 | Acid Rain
From the common start traverse up right past some looseness to gain line past well spaced bolts. Pretty lively mantle at the top with the last bolt out of sight below!! Rebolted 2010 or so. FA: Pete Stebbins & Matt Brooks, 1992 | 26m | |||
27 | ★ The Diamond Tipped Finger Saw
Sounds appealing! This is actually a pretty good and significantly harder companion for Anguish. Good face climbing leads to a desperate slab finish past last bolt. FFA: Mark Rewi, 11월 2016 | 18m | |||
27 | ★★ Anguish
Outstanding climbing direct up the middle of the face. Classic. FFA Steven Wilson ~2010 | 20m | |||
24 | ★ The Cult Master
| 25m | |||
Overlord
Closed Project... essentially a direct start and finish to CM. | |||||
26 | Cult Master DS
Boulder out hard start of Overlord and finish as for Cult Master. | 20m, 5 | |||
24 | ★★ Havoc
Great moves with a desperate crystal pulling crux. Finishes up Thin Ice FA: John Miller & Kevin Lindorff, 1992 | 23m | |||
18 | ★★ Thin Ice
FA: Pete Stebbins & Kevin Lindorff, 1992 | 25m | |||
17 | ★★ Milawa
Quality, clean slab climbing to shared ring bolt belay located down a little from old carrot belay on top of block. Rebolted with FH's '23. FA: 1986 | 23m, 5 | |||
16 | ★★ Polished Gem
Good climbing up an independant line between Milawa and Rough Diamond. An excellent warm-up/intro. Up the line past 4 FH, then continue up the arete using the last bolt on Rough Diamond. Shared anchor. FA: John Bentley & Martin Jackson, 22 10월 2018 | 23m, 5 | |||
18 | ★ Rough Diamond
The left hand line with hangers. Intricate climbing on featured granite. Be careful with the crazy flake, it's probably solid enough if you don’t pull out, just be gentle! It flexes outrageously. The line has also been climbed without the flake at about the same grade which may be better for all involved! Rebolted '23, shared anchor. FA: Andrew Stevens | 23m, 5 | |||
22 | ★ Greenpiece
The right hand wall of the gully between 'Frogs Hollow' and 'Milawa'. Move right to a pocket then left to the flake. FA: Dayle Gilliatt, 1997 | 12m, 2 | |||
8 | Crack and Tickle
At top of Greenpeace gully is an obvious short hand crack flake. Climb it, it’s fun. | 20m | |||
10 | ★ Frogs Hollow
The easy slab left of 'Milawa'. Original grade 10 start comes in from the left. Alternatively, there is a direct start at the tip of the nose, or a right hand variant start at the beginning of the gully, both of which are grade 14. Double RB belay. FA: Andrew Stevens, 1987 | 25m, 3 | |||
11 | Unknown Frogs
Unknown route 1m left of Frogs Hollow. Four non-rusted carrots to the same anchor. Feels about grade 10-11. | 25m, 4 | |||
8 | ★★ Unknown
Obvious flaring crack left of Frogs Hollow. Good placements beneath the leaf debris. Double RB belay. | 25m | |||
17 | ★ Touch and Go
Eases once getting to the first bolt. Double RB belay. | 20m, 3 | |||
20 | ★★ Scratch and Sniff
Excellent, high quality slab climbing up through a thin seam. Climb past 3 RB's to bomber RP/micro wire placements. Double RB belay. Rebolted 14/23 with bolts and glue provided by Safer Cliffs Victoria. FA: Ian Anger & Greg Pritchard, 1985 | 22m, 3 | |||
23 | ★★ Incremental
Direct line via 4 RB's between Scratch and Sniff and Toxic Shock. Will be great if anyone gets round to cleaning it. Shares double RB anchor with Scratch and Sniff. Rebolted 04/23 with bolts and glue provided by Safer Cliffs Victoria. FA: Steven Wilson, 2013 | 18m, 4 | |||
26 | ★★★ Toxic Shock and Razor Blades (Unfinished Business)
| 30m | |||
23 | ★★ Gumboot Diplomacy
Everyone in the know knows Black Hill 23s are all sand bags but this takes it to a new level... Even Law would have been proud! Excellent climbing on a beautiful subtle line. 23 after the crux start which is desperate! FA: Ian Anger | 30m, 5 | |||
21 | Victorian Country Club
Once brushed short steep arete around left of Clostridium Perfringens. No pro. FA: Peter Stebbins & Andrew Stevens, 1992 | 9m | |||
12 | ★ Clostridium Perfringens
This block sits above the top of Milawa, one row of boulders back. Walk off the top of Milawa and head up between two boulders to emerge facing the block. From the summit track it it is one of the first boulders down from the summit. Two rings for belay and descent on top. A fun easy route. Start on the top of the detached flake and cruise up the line. Fun Guy is a retro of Clostridium Perfringens which took the left side of the slab protected by clipping the original bolt on Vibrio Parahaemolyticus. FA: Andrew Corlass, 1986 FA: John Bentley & Martin Jackson, 22 10월 2018 | 9m, 2 | |||
16 | ★ Vibrio Parahaemolyticus
The line to the right of Fun Guy. Up the face last a fixed hanger, then continue up to a carrot bolt and top out at the same anchors as Fun Guy. Double ring anchor. | 9m, 2 | |||
17 | Velveteen
Blunt arete 2m right of Vibrio Parahaemolyticus. 1 BR FA: Peter Stebbins & Ben Holko, 1992 | 10m, 1 |
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