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등급 | 루트 | 장비 스타일 | 인기도 | ||
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22 | Neon Knights
FA: Pete Stebbins, 1992 | 14m | |||
21 | ★ Four-eyed and Bumless
| 30m | |||
21 | ★ FB Direct Finish
| 25m | |||
17 | ★ Cruising for Meat
Take the arête following two RBs to DRB loweroff below the capstone. Start direct or traverse in using the horizontal break. If topping out, you can use the DRB anchor on Penetration. The tree once used as an anchor is long gone. Rebolted 01/24 Bolts and glue provided by Safer Cliffs Victoria. | 11m, 2 | |||
21 | ★ Penetration
Freshly brushed 01/24. Good moves on surprisingly big holds past a RB on the face to a DRB anchor (original single FH and rusty maillon anchor is still in situ if feeling nostalgic). Rebolted 01/24. Bolts and glue provided by Safer Cliffs Victoria. | 10m, 1 | |||
The Chasm | |||||
V2 | Charlie’s V2 #1
Line starting off pedestal left end of chasm. | ||||
V2 | ★★ Charlie’s V2 #2
The line retrobolted with 2 carrots. Highball and awesome. | ||||
V2 | ★ Charlie’s V2 #3
The RH line with 1 carrot. A little shorter and with a better landing than #2. | ||||
V2 | Charlie’s V2 #4
Charlie did another line right of #3. Choose your own adventure. | ||||
V4 | ★ Subversion
Charlie never climbed the steep side. Guess he wanted to leave some for everyone else! This climbs the line leading to the flake dripping down across from #2. Thin. | ||||
13 | Original Sin
Round back and left from Static on the low angle slab. No anchor at top so have a plan with getting off. | 15m, 1 | |||
V4 | Yet Another Boulder
The wall between Another Boulder and the right arete. Thin, but there's a Thank God hold at 3/4 height. FA: Charlie Creese, 1989 | ||||
V2 | ★★ Another boulder.
I first did this in 1989 - perhaps a first ascent. Start beside the rock that's embedded in the ground and head straight up the face. The landing is not ideal, but plenty of people have done this and enjoyed it. FA: Charlie Creese, 1989 | ||||
21 | Porking in Paradise
| 7m, 1 | |||
20 | ★★★ Static Relief
FA: James Falla, 1986 | 9m | |||
23 | Boulder
Looked thoroughly unlikely at 20. Charlie is sure it’s an old James Falla 23. So that’s where we’ll start. | 9m | |||
V3 | Flaketastic
Around back of the static relief boulder is an obvious line of big incut holds bordering the hollow plate. Sit start with RH low and climb to the obvious horizontal dyke. When you’re standing hands free jump off or easily up (but not so easily off!) | ||||
22 | ★ Hard Shit
Once languishing with one lonely high and rusted carrot it seemed unlikely this was ever led. It definitely wasn't 20 as originally listed! Re-bolted in 2012 with 3 RB. Its good. (Post Edit - had been led prior to 2012 by a number of people) | 8m, 3 | |||
20 | ★ The New Purgatory
The New Purgatory is 1 meter right of Hard Shit 20, located on The Dance Floor slab, immediately uphill of Shredded Evidence (40m uphill of Rio Rock). FA: Steve Holloway, 2010 | 10m, 3 | |||
21 | Bolts on Granite Slab
Bolts on Granite Slab is the next climb directly right of The New Purgatory. FA: Mark Rewi, 2010 | 12m, 3 | |||
21 | Bolts on Granite Slab II
Bolts on Granite Slab II is the next climb directly right of Bolts on Granite Slab. Use medium wires or small cams above the bolts. | 14m, 1 | |||
23 | The Dyke
Start at BOGS II to reach the obvious diagonal dyke. Follow this all the way to HS (spicy just before arrival) using last bolts on each route Finish as per HS. | ||||
16 | ★ Go Dog Go
Go Dog Go is the next climb directly right of Bolts on Granite Slab II and directly left of Jaws. Use medium wires or small cams above the bolts. FA: Amanda Holloway | 14m, 3 | |||
17 | ★ Jaws
Face between Go Dog Go and Shark's Fin Soup past 2 RB's to an easy slab shared with the later. This is protected by a few cams or large wires. The big tree was prior to the fires used as the belay. As badly burnt, a DRB anchor has been added 12/23. Route rebolted 01/24. Bolts and glue provided by Safer Cliffs Victoria. | 25m, 2 | |||
17 | ★ Shark's Fin Soup
Right arete past 2 RB's easing to an easy slab protected by a few cams or large wires. The big tree was prior to the fires used as the belay. As badly burnt, a DRB anchor has been added 12/23. Route rebolted 01/24. Bolts and glue provided by Safer Cliffs Victoria. | 25m, 2 | |||
21 | Partners in Crime
| 12m, 2 | |||
19 | ★ Crimes of Passion
| 12m, 2 | |||
20 | Hard Shit's Bastard Brother
| 6m, 1 | |||
17 | Shredded Evidence
| 8m, 1 | |||
18 | ★ Los Andes
| 8m, 1 | |||
18 | Squishing Putrid Flesh
| 20m, 4 | |||
14 | Access Crack
| 8m | |||
20 | ★ Large Format
| 13m, 1 | |||
25 | ★ Romper Stomper
Some debate about the grade. Probably just bouldery hard 25. Watch the second clip though if you respect your ankles. FA: Kevin Lindorff & Pete Stebbins, 1992 | 15m | |||
23 | Three Moves to Glory
Essentially this looks impossible, with poor rock and an absolutely rubbish bolt to boot! Great line though! FA: Mike Law, 1989 | 10m, 1 | |||
12 | Hit With a Blunt Instrument
| 6m | |||
14 | Girl Germs
| 6m | |||
17 | ★ Two Scoops Please
Start in the gully behind the Squishing Putrid Flesh boulder. Three FH, then pop for the magnificent scoop to finish. DBB. (RHV - move past the last FH on the RHS, arriving at a second scoop - grade 18) FA: Martin Jackson, 1 3월 2016 | 10m, 3 | |||
23 | ★ Dog With a Bone
Start at the small corner 8m right of TSP. Use the corner to rock onto the face, then straight up to the horizontal dyke. Step left along the rail to the pocket, then straight up to the third FH. Traverse left and up through flake scars to finish. DBB. FA: Martin Jackson, 1 3월 2016 | 14m, 5 |
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