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Vie in Lower Tier

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Tutti 39 vie visualizzati.

Grado Via Stile equipaggiamento Popolarità
22 Neon Knights

FA: Pete Stebbins, 1992

Sportiva 14m
21 Four-eyed and Bumless
Trad 30m
21 FB Direct Finish
Trad 25m
17 Cruising for Meat

Take the arête following two RBs to DRB loweroff below the capstone. Start direct or traverse in using the horizontal break.

If topping out, you can use the DRB anchor on Penetration. The tree once used as an anchor is long gone.

Rebolted 01/24 Bolts and glue provided by Safer Cliffs Victoria.

Sportiva 11m, 2
21 Penetration

Freshly brushed 01/24. Good moves on surprisingly big holds past a RB on the face to a DRB anchor (original single FH and rusty maillon anchor is still in situ if feeling nostalgic).

Rebolted 01/24. Bolts and glue provided by Safer Cliffs Victoria.

Sportiva 10m, 1
The Chasm
V2 Charlie’s V2 #1

Line starting off pedestal left end of chasm.

Sconosciuto
V2 Charlie’s V2 #2

The line retrobolted with 2 carrots. Highball and awesome.

Sconosciuto
V2 Charlie’s V2 #3

The RH line with 1 carrot. A little shorter and with a better landing than #2.

Sconosciuto
V2 Charlie’s V2 #4

Charlie did another line right of #3. Choose your own adventure.

Sconosciuto
V4 Subversion

Charlie never climbed the steep side. Guess he wanted to leave some for everyone else! This climbs the line leading to the flake dripping down across from #2. Thin.

Sconosciuto
13 Original Sin

Round back and left from Static on the low angle slab. No anchor at top so have a plan with getting off.

Sportiva 15m, 1
V4 Yet Another Boulder

The wall between Another Boulder and the right arete. Thin, but there's a Thank God hold at 3/4 height.

FA: Charlie Creese, 1989

Boulder
V2 Another boulder.

I first did this in 1989 - perhaps a first ascent. Start beside the rock that's embedded in the ground and head straight up the face. The landing is not ideal, but plenty of people have done this and enjoyed it.

FA: Charlie Creese, 1989

Boulder
21 Porking in Paradise
Sportiva 7m, 1
20 Static Relief

FA: James Falla, 1986

Boulder 9m
23 Boulder

Looked thoroughly unlikely at 20. Charlie is sure it’s an old James Falla 23. So that’s where we’ll start.

Sportiva 9m
V3 Flaketastic

Around back of the static relief boulder is an obvious line of big incut holds bordering the hollow plate. Sit start with RH low and climb to the obvious horizontal dyke. When you’re standing hands free jump off or easily up (but not so easily off!)

Boulder
22 Hard Shit

Once languishing with one lonely high and rusted carrot it seemed unlikely this was ever led. It definitely wasn't 20 as originally listed! Re-bolted in 2012 with 3 RB. Its good. (Post Edit - had been led prior to 2012 by a number of people)

Sportiva 8m, 3
20 The New Purgatory

The New Purgatory is 1 meter right of Hard Shit 20, located on The Dance Floor slab, immediately uphill of Shredded Evidence (40m uphill of Rio Rock).

FA: Steve Holloway, 2010

Sportiva 10m, 3
21 Bolts on Granite Slab

Bolts on Granite Slab is the next climb directly right of The New Purgatory.

FA: Mark Rewi, 2010

Sportiva 12m, 3
21 Bolts on Granite Slab II

Bolts on Granite Slab II is the next climb directly right of Bolts on Granite Slab.

Use medium wires or small cams above the bolts.

Sportiva 14m, 1
23 The Dyke

Start at BOGS II to reach the obvious diagonal dyke. Follow this all the way to HS (spicy just before arrival) using last bolts on each route Finish as per HS.

Sportiva
16 Go Dog Go

Go Dog Go is the next climb directly right of Bolts on Granite Slab II and directly left of Jaws.

Use medium wires or small cams above the bolts.

FA: Amanda Holloway

Trad mista 14m, 3
17 Jaws

Face between Go Dog Go and Shark's Fin Soup past 2 RB's to an easy slab shared with the later. This is protected by a few cams or large wires.

The big tree was prior to the fires used as the belay. As badly burnt, a DRB anchor has been added 12/23. Route rebolted 01/24. Bolts and glue provided by Safer Cliffs Victoria.

Trad mista 25m, 2
17 Shark's Fin Soup

Right arete past 2 RB's easing to an easy slab protected by a few cams or large wires.

The big tree was prior to the fires used as the belay. As badly burnt, a DRB anchor has been added 12/23. Route rebolted 01/24. Bolts and glue provided by Safer Cliffs Victoria.

Trad mista 25m, 2
21 Partners in Crime
Sportiva 12m, 2
19 Crimes of Passion
Sportiva 12m, 2
20 Hard Shit's Bastard Brother
Sportiva 6m, 1
17 Shredded Evidence
Sportiva 8m, 1
18 Los Andes
Sportiva 8m, 1
18 Squishing Putrid Flesh
Sportiva 20m, 4
14 Access Crack
Trad 8m
20 Large Format
Sportiva 13m, 1
25 Romper Stomper

Some debate about the grade. Probably just bouldery hard 25. Watch the second clip though if you respect your ankles.

FA: Kevin Lindorff & Pete Stebbins, 1992

Sportiva 15m
23 Three Moves to Glory

Essentially this looks impossible, with poor rock and an absolutely rubbish bolt to boot! Great line though!

FA: Mike Law, 1989

Trad mista 10m, 1
12 Hit With a Blunt Instrument
Sportiva 6m
14 Girl Germs
Sportiva 6m
17 Two Scoops Please

Start in the gully behind the Squishing Putrid Flesh boulder.

Three FH, then pop for the magnificent scoop to finish. DBB.

(RHV - move past the last FH on the RHS, arriving at a second scoop - grade 18)

FA: Martin Jackson, 1 Mar 2016

Sportiva 10m, 3
23 Dog With a Bone

Start at the small corner 8m right of TSP.

Use the corner to rock onto the face, then straight up to the horizontal dyke. Step left along the rail to the pocket, then straight up to the third FH. Traverse left and up through flake scars to finish. DBB.

FA: Martin Jackson, 1 Mar 2016

Sportiva 14m, 5

Tutti 39 vie visualizzati.

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