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등급 | 루트 | 장비 스타일 | 인기도 | ||
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28 | ★★★ Nether
Almost completely superseded by Sneaky Snake, especially until the start bulge gets freed. But still worth recording, for those who can't climb 33! Start 8m R of Naja. Stick clip and batman 10m to third bolt to bypass the blank bulge, then follow the awe-inspiring water grooves in the incredible steep sheer wall. Finish at the half-height DRB. 70m rope recommended. The low bulge has reportedly almost been freed, but will be MUCH harder - open project. Initially done with a batman start from the break above the 1st bolt (grade 30) Set: Lee Cossey FA: Lawry Dermody, 2006 | 30m, 8 | |||
28 | ★★★ Groovy
Takes one of Taipan's best scoop lines and is ultra classic in it's own right. Start 10m up L from the base of Invisible Fist. This scramble/traverse is 10m off the ground and trickier than it looks.
FA: Rich Heap, 1997 | 25m, 6 | |||
33 | ★★★ Groove Train
An extension to Groovy, this was briefly the hardest route on the wall and may be the best. Climb it in 1 pitch from the ground. The sheer face above the finish of the Groovy groove is sparsely bolted (despite a dubious retrobolt by Dave Graham ... which lasted about 5 seconds after he left) up the black streak to a lower off. Can seep. Equipped by Zac Vertrees and Mike Law (with the top lower-off added by Jake Bresnehan), this was attempted by a who's who of Australian hard-men over 7 years before Ben's success. Ben Cossey FA of Groove Train https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=H-PsXKda6JU FA: Ben Cossey, 2009 | 45m, 2, 10 | |||
26 | ★★ Snake Flake
A strenuous single pitch, mostly superb 22-23ish but with a distinct hard section. It takes the main arete-like thing bounding the L side of this large red scooped out section of cliff. Start on the elevated ledge, 3m L of the top of the boulder you scrambled up.
FA: Malcolm Matheson (originally starting up Invisible Fist - he added the direct start through the roof with Jacqui Middleton & Neil Monteith on)., 2003 | 25m, 4 | |||
32 | ★★★ Snakes on a Train
A link up. From the anchors of Snake Flake, traverse left into the top half of Groove Train via one bolt. FA: Doug McConnell, 2012 | ||||
33 | Trouser Snake
Just another incredible looking line on Taipan. It's the orange streak directly above Snake Flake's anchor, climbed in a single pitch from the ground. Set: Equipped by Ben Cossey & Al Pryce late Oct 08 FA: Lee Cossey, 2013 | 48m | |||
26 R | ★★★ The Invisible Fist (of Professor Hiddich Smiddich) (+ Southern Delight)
A few pieces of gear down low on the easier sections. Probably the most popular route on Taipan - not least because of it's spoodgy grade and the quantity of shiny stainless steel! Start on the elevated ledge, just L of the top of the boulder you scrambled up, below a well-chalked slabby thin flake. Clip some cams as the start is easy but delicate and unprotected.
FA: Gordon Poultney & Chris Jones (p1 Jan 1996). Extension: Kilian Fischhuber 3/8/2012, 1996 | 26m, 2, 7 | |||
26 | ★★★ Fisting Party (Link-Up)
A link-up of The Invisible Fist into the top pitch-and-a-half of World Party. One of the greatest single pitches in the universe for anyone with the stamina. 'Almost' a sport route (15 bolts) with only two medium wires being optional on the entire route. Climb Invisible Fist to the 2nd last ring, then step right (FH) into the slopey rightwards traverse of World Party pitch 2. Finish up pitch three of World Party. Rope drag is ok if you use extenders and roller-biners appropriately, but could be horrendous if you don't. FA: Neil Monteith, 2006 | 50m, 15 | |||
26 | ★★ Jumping Viper
Start on the elevated ledge, 4m R of the boulder and 2m L of a small tree. The wall between IF and WP, then finish up IF past it's last bolt. If you're not as long and strong as Rhys, its still a good 26M1 by pulling past the jump. The extension out the scoop/roof to the lip has 2 very old bolts in it and is an open project. FA: Will Monks (26M1 & pulled past the jump), 2000 FFA: Rhys van Gastel, 2013 | 28m, 7 | |||
27 | ★★★ World Party
1
21
20m
2
27
13m
3
24
20m
The stunning final pitch is one of the very best on the wall. Before you get there, there's a hard crux on the 2nd pitch. The hanging 2nd belay is best avoided by linking pitches 2 and 3, while pitch 2 is easily worked from the ground if you have a recalcitrant belayer. Start on the elevated ledge, 7m R of the top of the boulder and just R of the small tree, at a short fat flake on the slab.
FA: Peter Cresswell (1), Andy Pollit (2 & 3), 1990 | 53m, 3, 9 | |||
21 | ★★ World Party Pitch 1
| 20m | |||
27 | ★★ World Party Pitch 2
FA: Andy Pollit | 12m | |||
24 | ★★★ World Party Pitch 3
FA: Andy Pollit | 20m | |||
16 | ★ World Party Anaconda Pitch 1 Link-up
Nothing flash by Taipan standards, but certainly recommended for those at the grade wanting a taste of the fabled Taipan. Follow World Party for 8m to horizontals. Traverse R along horizontals until 4m R of Constrictor, to finish up short flake onto slab and mantle to the 1st belay ledge of Anaconda and rap chains (15m). | 25m | |||
21 | ★★★ Constrictor into World Party
Start up Constrictor's slab past the bolt, then (instead of traversing the break R as per the original) continue straight up following the chalked slopers of World Party's first pitch to ledge and lower-off. | 20m, 1 | |||
21 | ★ Constrictor
Squeezed in! A Taipan slab route with a crimpy crux down low. Starts 3m right of World Party, just left of small bush growing out of horizontal crack. Boulder up tenuously onto orange slab and good pocket (FH). Step left slightly and climb slopers directly to join World Party at large horizontal. Traverse right across this for four metres to short vertical flake. Arrange pro and balance up flake onto slab (FH). Finish up slopers (FH) and over final committing bulge to ledge. Rap chain (18m). FA: Neil Monteith, 2004 | 18m, 3 | |||
28 | ★★★ Anaconda
Suffocatingly powerful. Usually led as one giant pitch. Start at large expanding left-facing flake 8m right of World Party.
FA: Malcolm Matheson & Simon Mentz, 1993 | 60m, 2, 8 | |||
22 | Anaconda Pitch 1
FA: Malcolm Matheson | 17m | |||
26 | ★★ Forked Tongue
A rising traverse line across a major feature linking Anaconda into Mr Joshua. Start at rap chain at end of first pitch of Anaconda. Climb Anaconda's 2nd pitch for 3 bolts then scuttle right (2 UBs) into white cave. A good alternative is to head R from Anaconda's 2nd FH and heelhook up the diagonal bulge (pre-extend the 1st UB). From the cave, go-go-gadget span between scoops to reach juggy flake. Swing across this (large wires/cams, or just run it out) then up final scoopy headwall (UB) to join Mr Joshua pitch 1 at it's last bolt. Backclean, or get some idiot to second then rap off (38m). FFA: Toby Pola FA: Equipped & dogged by Neil Monteith, 2005 | 25m, 8 | |||
25 | ★★★ Mr T (Mr Josh Left Variant)
Totally classic ... but it's hard to give the third star when it's only an 8m variant of the first pitch of Mr Joshua. Unfortunately the bolts are getting rather rusty after only 10 years. Start as for Mr Joshua. At the post-crux horizontal break of Mr Joshua's first pitch, (after the 6th bolt) step left and climb left side of scoop past two FHs to rejoin Mr J at it's last bolt. Lower off (28m to tree then swing back in to ledge, or 38m to ground). FA: Garry & Jake FA: Garry Phillips, 2006 | 35m, 9 | |||
26 | ★★★ Mr Joshua
The brilliant first pitch is one of the most popular at Taipan and was a very impressive effort by the young bumblies Jared and Simon. Often cited as the best 25 in Australia. Pitch 2 is far less popular, but still excellent. Start from the R-hand end of the ledge, 4m R of Anaconda's flake. Set a belay, or belay from the ground.
FA: Pitch 1 Jared McCulloch & Simon MentzPitch 2 Jared McCulloch 18-10-1989, 1989 | 50m, 2, 12 | |||
25 | ★★★ Mr. Joshua Pitch 1
| 28m, 8 | |||
Project
Right hand variant to Mr J. | 3 | ||||
30 | ★★★ Sheek Naja Ket
Established after a tip-off from Jake the snake Bresnehan. "Named in honour of a great man, and possibly the best climb on the wall". Given 31 originally but has quickly been knocked down a grade. Start as for Mr J. Up most of Mr J p1 then, instead of going diagonally left past the last bolt to the cave, continue directly up. The crimpy orange wall has 4 more bolts and takes you about 4m R of Mr J p2, right to the top. A 70m rope can lower off the last bolt to the ledge - just! It's only a sport route if, like most grade 30 climbers, you skip the trad gear on Mr J. FA: Ben Cossey & Al Pryce, 2008 | 38m, 11 | |||
27 | ★★★ Mr Que
This linkup provides an easier way to do Tourniquet p2 as a single monster pitch from the ground. Climb Mr J p1 to it's 2nd last bolt, slopy traverse R to middle of black streak (cams), spicy up black streak into the spacious cave. Join Tourniquet pitch 2 up the arete. | 45m, 10 | |||
26 | ★★★ Mr V
The easiest way to do Venom p2. Climb Mr J until 5m above it's crux, then take the jug traverse R to join Venom p2 and follow this to the top in one mega pitch from the ground. | 50m, 11 | |||
30 | ★★ Tourniquet
FA: Dave Jones (p1p2 98), 1997 | 40m, 2, 8 | |||
28 | ★★★ Venom
The popular first pitch is a beautiful scoop of rock with a tenuous traverse and remarkably sustained climbing for the length of the scoop. The business is a little short to rank up there with Taipan's very best, but it's still awesome. Pitch 2 is rarely done but is an absolute blast. Start at the DRB atop Kaa p1, accessed as described above. (There is an old direct start with a couple of bolts (described on the Spurt Wall page), but nobody bothers with it).
FA: Steve Monks early, 1995 | 60m, 2, 4 | |||
34 | The Old Dog
a.k.a Enter the Dragon, a.k.a. Mortal Combat. This is the subtle groove about 6-8m R of Mr J's arête. "33/34" with tricky beta on both cruxes and lots of kneebar action, says Alex. Start at the DRB at the base of Venom. Trend L past FH, through desperately blank looking bulge, to follow the line of anti-holds up the attractive faint groove, joining Venom at the big break. Nalle reported "8B boulder section with very precise and shoulder intensive moves, bad feet and the two worst slopers I’ve ever seen on a route. This is followed by an easier but absolutely amazing scoopy section to a pretty ok rest. From there you set up for one of the craziest dynos I’ve ever done! If you stick the low percentage dyno, there’s still a sustained run-out section with long moves to the anchor". Set: Equipped Rich Heap, 2000 FA: 2000 FFA: Alex Megos, 5월 2015 | 18m, 6 | |||
27 | ★★ Rattler
2 bolt boulder start to RS. Classic!! | ||||
26 | ★★★ Rattlesnake Shake
Ho hum, just another fantastic Taipan route. You'll be shaking on the slab section! Continually bouldery climbing split by good rest stances. Start as for Venom on the ledge 15m off the ground. Traverse right as for Kaa pitch 2 (small-med cams), past the black streak with 2 FHs (don't clip them, that's Rattler), almost to Kaa's second bolt (don't clip this either!). Straight up grey streak above past 6 FHs and a fixed wire up high. Route finishes in large cave at rap rings (35m to the ground). You need a 60m rope to (laboriously) tramline back to the belay, or a 70m to lower off to the ground. FA: Neil Monteith, 2007 | 35m, 7 | |||
24 | ★★ Kaa
Wanders around like crazy in order to follow the 'weaknesses', but still worthwhile. Nearly all the bolts are in poor condition - please contribute to rebolting. You also need a light trad rack. Start at ground level at the prominent left-leading flake that is located towards the right end of the Spurt Wall bouldering traverse, directly below Venom.
FA: Steve Monks & Keith Lockwood, 1992 | 80m, 4, 9 |
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