루트들 Hidden Face에서

Engaging, technical, good quality climbing in a wild location. Fully bolted.

1. 15m 12 Start as for Psycho Man for 3 bolts, then head left across large ledge to DBB.

2. 30m 23 Crux pitch. Clip bolt and downclimb from ledge to traverse left across the top of sea cave. Head up to roof, then left under this to ledge and double bolt belay.

3. 20m 23 Hard start moving right into crack system, then follow this to next ledge.

4. 20m 22 Follow line of bolts up slab, move left into corner system finishing at ledge.

5. 20m 18 Step right and finish up the final pitch of Psycho Man

The rap route and also the easiest way to escape the Hidden Face. A new wave classic and worth the walk just for the experience of the second pitch alone. Fully bolted.

1. 35m 22 From single bolt belay, follow line of bolts up easy ground, finishing with a couple of big moves to big holds just below the anchor. DBB.

2. 40m 21 Sustained, engaging climbing. Cross the slab bearing left into flake system, then up major corner. Move left around steep bulge to arete and up to DBB. Spaced bolts can be supplemented with small cams (BD 0.3, 0.4) and wires if desired.

3. 20m 18 Follow corner with a couple of big moves to finish.

An moderate adventure route and the line of least resistance up the Hidden Face. The climb follows a series of crack systems to the top of the cliff.

1. 20m (17). Start as for Psychoman then verge right after 5 metres until at base of steep corner (crux). Up this (grade 17) or step left around arete and up more easily. Belay here, or continue up crack and link with pitch 2.

2. 20m (13) Continue up the easy corner until reaching a crack that peters out before a blank slab. Belay from a stance in the crack.

3. 20m (16) Up slab (runout) and right until a short finger crack takes gear, then over bulge and belay on top of a pedestal at base of headwall.

4. 20m (15) Traverse left and over into overhanging corner system. Over bulge and easily up corner to belay.

5. 20m (15) Up middle of face, using a series of blocks and flakes to the summit. First ascent climbed into the bushes and belayed from a tree near the descent abseil bolt. This pitch has dubious rock quality.

Pitch lengths are estimates, and belay stances described are a guide only. This route is still a serious undertaking due to the loose nature of the rock in sections. Be careful.

Gear: Standard rack, several alpine draws

Excellent. Solo up corner to first bolt (can protect with #1 camalot), then a strenous sequence of laybacking with poor feet, followed by some big moves right to the last bolt.

Brilliant climbing. High first bolt, then follow the grove up the arête until an airy step to the left to make the flake. Must do.

Up the centre of the main wall, starting about 8m to the left of a deep, dirty corner. First bolt is about 15m up the cliff. There are some suss mild steel bolts on the 3rd and 4th pitches, currently best to rap off after the first 2 pitches.

1. 45m 21, 14 bolts

2. 35m 24, 13 bolts

3. 35m 22, 11 bolts

4. 20m 18, 9 bolts

Amazing. Start in hand crack just right of main cliff, which trends left leading to a line of bolts. Technical and engaging corner climbing past 6 bolts, then into a finger crack (0.75 camalot), and past a final bolt to the top. Take BD cams 0.5, 0.75, 1, 2, 3.

Another excellent route. Follow the obvious line of bolts up a series of flakes into a shallow corner, finishing with some fun moves to gain the 'wagon wheel' around the right hand side of the arete. Classic.

Just right of prominent overhang. Up seam to enjoyable climbing using pockets and flakes. now has a single u and hanger to lower off

Enjoyable face climbing using pockets and large flakes.

Corner finger crack which heads left at the overhanging roof. Belay off double bolts.

Beautiful corner climbing with some really thoughtful moves required, if you have the stones to make it past the ledges. Needs medium cams to do semi-safely(0.4, 0.5, 0.75). A crux above the first ledge requires gear or you may as well be soloing.

The prominent thin seam.

Walk along the ledge to access the final route at the far right hand end of the crag. A very hard start and total sandbag.

The prominent line of overhanging arete features trending right. Sustained climbing on large holds with brilliant exposure above deep water. The crux is above 20 metres, a safety line can be rigged by traversing to the break at the top.

Closed project, direct extension on Ethereal through the two roofs and technical flared crack on the face. Looks nails.