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Space Ape Area

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설명

A couple of short powerful routes exist here back on the ground level 60m past the big banana buttress.

접근 문제들 Monkey Face으로부터 상속된

Access to the crag is an easy 10min walk. The lower road, Bangalow Rd, has reopened in 2023 after several years of closure. However the climbers access track is closed after fires in late 2023. Therefore only access is from top again ( see paragraph below about access via Monkeyface Rd) . Park at Bangalow Campground/ day use area and walk up the hill, meeting the routes of So and Feeling the Pinch at Lower Crag. Go left from here to Turkey Walls, Big Banana Buttress and Smear Slabs. go right to access middle crag.

Alternatively the crag can be accessed from above via Monkeyface Rd. From the first top car park head south around large boulders before descending steeply to the top of Big Banana. Go climbers left to descend Central Gully. Rain in 2023 has dislodged several large blocks at the base of the gully and there may be a rickety wooden ladder. Fire has destroyed a lot of ground vegetation increasing rock fall and erosion risk, so be careful.

The walkway wooden retainers and steps have been burnt, although the track is still negotiable. Check the NPWS website for closures as contractors will be working in the area and it will be closed at times during 2024.

In case of emergency, reception is poor at the base of the cliff, but reliable on top of big banana buttress.

접근

From ground level 60m past the big banana buttress.

윤리문제 Monkey Face으로부터 상속된

Trad and mixed routes abound here with the occasional sport route. A number of routes are readily accessed to set up top ropes. As an older crag, the grades may feel quite stiff, so take this into account. The crag is within a national park, so no dogs, no smoking and use the toilets if you need to go.

태그들

루트들

루트 추가 그림안내지도 추가 재 주문 대용량 편집 변환된 등급
등급 루트

The obscure wall with 2 bolts, starting at the wide crack 2m left of Space Ape.

FA: Darrin Gray, 1991

Reachy through roof to good edges. Best to use double ropes to avoid groundfall. 2RB

FA: David Gray, 1983

The steep corner and problematic groove.

Climbs Orangutang to the break then steps right to finish up the arete, past a bolt.

The ironstone sheeted wall right of Orangutang is climbed past a bolt (crux) to a break, finishing via a second bolt near the arete. Start either from the crack on the right (21) or a hard pull on the arete (23).

FA: David Gray & Robert Stow

Climb the thin crack above Lacolite Onion.

FA: John Wilde & Dan Rogers, 1989

Climb the gunge then wall past a bolt.

FA: George Feig & Darrin Gray, 1991

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Selected Guidebooks more Hide

Author(s): Tim Haasnoot

일자: 2013

ISBN: 9780975129319

An area that has steep sport routes, trad cracks, deep-water-soling, sea cliff climbing and bouldering all within a short drive to some beautiful beaches and national parks is surely worth a look in. The Newcastle and Hunter Rock Climbing guide by Tim Haasnoot is feature packed and includes all the areas worth a day trip from Newcastle. This guide features over 950 routes, 170 boulder problems and 100 DWS with full topo maps and navigation info.

Accommodations nearby more Hide

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