도움

계절특성

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설명

Probably no more sandbagged than elsewhere at this crag, enjoy From Here to Eternity and Drop the Pilot for some challenging 19s. The only soft Touch is Thieving Pommy Bastard which was an easy 25 and has been downgraded.

접근 문제들 Monkey Face으로부터 상속된

Access to the crag is an easy 10min walk. The lower road, Bangalow Rd, has reopened in 2023 after several years of closure. However the climbers access track is closed after fires in late 2023. Therefore only access is from top again ( see paragraph below about access via Monkeyface Rd) . Park at Bangalow Campground/ day use area and walk up the hill, meeting the routes of So and Feeling the Pinch at Lower Crag. Go left from here to Turkey Walls, Big Banana Buttress and Smear Slabs. go right to access middle crag.

Alternatively the crag can be accessed from above via Monkeyface Rd. From the first top car park head south around large boulders before descending steeply to the top of Big Banana. Go climbers left to descend Central Gully. Rain in 2023 has dislodged several large blocks at the base of the gully and there may be a rickety wooden ladder. Fire has destroyed a lot of ground vegetation increasing rock fall and erosion risk, so be careful.

The walkway wooden retainers and steps have been burnt, although the track is still negotiable. Check the NPWS website for closures as contractors will be working in the area and it will be closed at times during 2024.

In case of emergency, reception is poor at the base of the cliff, but reliable on top of big banana buttress.

접근

This is where you meet the crag when coming from below at the honeycombed start of Feeling the Pinch.

하강시 주의점

New anchors above many routes.

윤리문제 Monkey Face으로부터 상속된

Trad and mixed routes abound here with the occasional sport route. A number of routes are readily accessed to set up top ropes. As an older crag, the grades may feel quite stiff, so take this into account. The crag is within a national park, so no dogs, no smoking and use the toilets if you need to go.

태그들

루트들

루트 추가 그림안내지도 추가 재 주문 대용량 편집 변환된 등급
등급 루트

Boulder buttress between Lacolite Onion & Daniel’s Climb past 1 bolt.

FA: James Cowmeadow & John Wilde, 1987

Buttress past 1 bolt.

FA: James Cowmeadow & John Wilde, 1987

On the left arete of the 'Sex is an Advantage' block, Iron stone streaks past 2 bolts.

FA: Daniel Wilde & John Wilde, 1985

Arete past 2 bolts.

FA: James Cowmeadow & John Wilde, 1985

Climb the sickle crack and wall to finish.

FA: 18M2, David Gray & Robert Stow, 1982

FFA: Paul Riviere, 1990

Two bolts and an interesting mantle shelf move, lead up the curving arete.

FA: John Wilde & James Cowmeadow, 1985

Climb the thin corner left of arete to a cave then finish via 2 bolts and a letter-box slot

FA: John Wilde, David Gray, George Feig & Jim Gilbert, 1988

Climb the right side of the arete past 2 BR to a very bold finish via a seam on the arete. Has been rebolted. Sling tree to finish.

FA: John Wilde & David Gray, 1983

The chimney / corner right of Drop the Pilot. In 2017 someone retro bolted this route, on expansion bolts. The hangers have been removed. Do Not Retrobolt. This route has been led by many scouts over the years and does not need bolts. Expansion bolts should never be used in Watagans sandstone for climbing.

FA: David Gray (solo), 1981

The obvious steep crack, 2m right of Escape Corner past several welcome holes. Gear from C3s for the thin crack, bomber wires in the pods (gear to #0.75)

FA: 15M1, Rob Wallace & David Gray, 1980

FFA: David Gray & Dan Rogers, 1983

Named because "the higher your bracket, the more you're taxed". No brackets required now after the re-bolt with rings. Sustained climbing starts at 'From Here to Eternity' then traverses right at half height then up on thin edges to very balancy crux, up to chains.

FFA: David Gray, 1984

FA: 22M0 David Gray, John Wilde, Dan Rogers & Chris Crane, 1984

Climb the right hand crack, from where a lower level traverse line leads past a bolt to the crux of Progressive Taxation.

A hard friable overhung start to Progressive Taxation. A difficult bridging start to surmount the overhang leads to a sustained wall, joining Progressive Taxation at it’s crux.

FA: John Wilde & George Fieg, 1990

Bouldery start to a UB then a big move to "feel the pinch" before continuing up the wall past FH in hole and cam break at roof. Traverse right to UB lower off.

FA: John Wilde

Follow the shattered crack above the sentry box, past a ring to lower off.

FA: TopRope, Paul Smith & Bruce Donaldson, 1981

FFA: David Gray, 1982

Climb the wall right of 'So' past 2 bolts to a long reach over a roof. Shared lower off with 'So'.

FA: Dave Fowler & Dave Britain, 1992

A good introductory laybacking up the left side of the pillar to a tree. Exit from the left side of the cave.

FA: Paul Smith (solo), 1981

The arete of the pillar right of 'So'.

FA: Dave Gray (solo), 1983

Easy crack just right of EZ arete.

FA: Dave Gray (solo), 1981

Up the root infested crack to a lower off root.

FA: Adrian Kladnig, 28 5월 2016

The first climb you hit on the walk up the track from Monkey Face campground. Crimp hard up the blunt arete past 2 carrots, then bush bash your way to the lower off tree.

알고 계십니까?

귀하가 등반한 등정들의 기록, 추적 그리고 공유할 수 있는 계정을 만들 수 있다는 것을 알고 계십니까? 수천명의 등반가들이 이미 이런 일들을 하고 있습니다.

Selected Guidebooks more Hide

Author(s): Tim Haasnoot

일자: 2013

ISBN: 9780975129319

An area that has steep sport routes, trad cracks, deep-water-soling, sea cliff climbing and bouldering all within a short drive to some beautiful beaches and national parks is surely worth a look in. The Newcastle and Hunter Rock Climbing guide by Tim Haasnoot is feature packed and includes all the areas worth a day trip from Newcastle. This guide features over 950 routes, 170 boulder problems and 100 DWS with full topo maps and navigation info.

Accommodations nearby more Hide

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