도움

The Ridge

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  • 등정들 55

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접근 문제들 Monkey Face으로부터 상속된

Access to the crag is an easy 10min walk. The lower road, Bangalow Rd, has reopened in 2023 after several years of closure. However the climbers access track is closed after fires in late 2023. Therefore only access is from top again ( see paragraph below about access via Monkeyface Rd) . Park at Bangalow Campground/ day use area and walk up the hill, meeting the routes of So and Feeling the Pinch at Lower Crag. Go left from here to Turkey Walls, Big Banana Buttress and Smear Slabs. go right to access middle crag.

Alternatively the crag can be accessed from above via Monkeyface Rd. From the first top car park head south around large boulders before descending steeply to the top of Big Banana. Go climbers left to descend Central Gully. Rain in 2023 has dislodged several large blocks at the base of the gully and there may be a rickety wooden ladder. Fire has destroyed a lot of ground vegetation increasing rock fall and erosion risk, so be careful.

The walkway wooden retainers and steps have been burnt, although the track is still negotiable. Check the NPWS website for closures as contractors will be working in the area and it will be closed at times during 2024.

In case of emergency, reception is poor at the base of the cliff, but reliable on top of big banana buttress.

접근

From the south lookout ( just beyond car park) walk down a well defined track along ridge for 100m south. You need to pass alongside a rock outcrop that is about chest high. 30 m beyond this, to your right is a cliff looking to the south west that is 6 to 14m high. A splitter finger crack is the obvious feature. Abseil from trees to convenient ledges.

하강시 주의점

Take a short static or old rope ( 20m) to set up anchors on some routes, and to abseil in off trees. Ascend your fixed rope to get out, or climb easy gullies ( grade 5-7), or a corner ( requires trad gear) or one of the sports routes, though top outs aren’t easy.

윤리문제 Monkey Face으로부터 상속된

Trad and mixed routes abound here with the occasional sport route. A number of routes are readily accessed to set up top ropes. As an older crag, the grades may feel quite stiff, so take this into account. The crag is within a national park, so no dogs, no smoking and use the toilets if you need to go.

루트들

루트 추가 그림안내지도 추가 재 주문 대용량 편집 변환된 등급
등급 루트

Exit route, would protect ok. Up the left side of the shattered pillar 4m L of CC

The centre of wall left of finger crack avoiding the stacked blocks

FA: Vanessa Wills & John Hollott, 8월 2019

Finger crack bisected by a welcome alcove. Belay off tree

FA: David Gray & Vanessa Wills, 6월 2018

Step right off ledge to left arete of buttress 3 m right of CRackaphonic Crack. Technical moves to DBB

FA: David Gray & Vanessa Wills, 12월 2018

Straight up centre of buttress to DBB

FA: Vanessa Wills & David Gray, 12월 2018

The right arete of buttress. Shared anchors with EOS. DBB

FA: David Gray & Vanessa Wills, 12월 2018

Start on left side of cave 2 m R of SC. Left into left facing corner. Small cams (c3s) to #1. Tree belay.

FA: David Gray & Vanessa Wills, 12월 2018

Start as for CC, then step right to arete and thin face. 1 RB, 4 bolts. Suggest set up anchor off tree and place bolt plates and quickdraws as you abseil in. Mantle onto ledge to finish.

FA: Vanessa Wills, 9월 2021

Up direct to right edge of cave then straight up slab to left side of boulder at top. 4 bolts. Hangers needed. Highly recommended to abseil over route on fixed line from tree and place hangers and draws. Finish with Both hands on top ( bolt at waist) and use abseil line as anchor to lower from. The route is visible from the walkers lookout.

FA: Vanessa Wills & David Gray, 8월 2019

The crack right of SOH. Dirty and a bit harder than it looks

FA: David Gray, 2018

Short crack up left side of cave. Often collects vegetation at top

FA: David Gray, 2018

Left facing corner with hand crack 5m right of SOH. Tree belay.

알고 계십니까?

귀하가 등반한 등정들의 기록, 추적 그리고 공유할 수 있는 계정을 만들 수 있다는 것을 알고 계십니까? 수천명의 등반가들이 이미 이런 일들을 하고 있습니다.

Selected Guidebooks more Hide

Author(s): Tim Haasnoot

일자: 2013

ISBN: 9780975129319

An area that has steep sport routes, trad cracks, deep-water-soling, sea cliff climbing and bouldering all within a short drive to some beautiful beaches and national parks is surely worth a look in. The Newcastle and Hunter Rock Climbing guide by Tim Haasnoot is feature packed and includes all the areas worth a day trip from Newcastle. This guide features over 950 routes, 170 boulder problems and 100 DWS with full topo maps and navigation info.

Accommodations nearby more Hide

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