도움

North Side

  • 등급표기: US
  • 사진들 2
  • 등정들 250
  • Aka: Shady side

계절특성

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설명

This is the side that you first see as you walk in to the Potrero.

접근 문제들 El Potrero Chico으로부터 상속된

Most of the climbing here is in a State Park. As of 2023 there is a one-time 250 peso fee to climb for the entire winter climbing season. Please help maintain a clean environment in order to help maintain these privileges. Respect the local land people by packing out what you pack in.

윤리문제 Nuevo León으로부터 상속된

Please don´t litter, some crags like LaHuasteca are a little runout, but thats how they were set, please avoid adding bolts. Rebolting efforts are much apreciated, just send a heads up to the local climbing comunity for safety reasons.

루트들

루트 추가 그림안내지도 추가 재 주문 대용량 편집 변환된 등급
등급 루트

경고 Fixed Gear: No top Anchors at the end of pitch II

1 5.7
2 5.9

Starts downhill and to the left on the taller spire. Look for the chimney system that goes up -- the climb starts in/up this chimney.

This is not your usual EPC 5.9; it is solid in the grade, not closely bolted, and a lot of crack work, rather than face climbing. Having some gear to supplement the missing bolt and the old iron pitons is a good idea unless you are completely solid at 5.9.

  1. 5.7: Climb up blocky/vegetated ledges passed a few bolts to the anchor. Slightly runout but well protected where it counts.

  2. 5.9: Follow the crack making use of jamming/chimney/dihedral technique passing a few bolts and old Mexican irons. At one of the Mexican irons, look out right for a bolt, you should come out of the crack and make your way up a bolted slab to the anchor. Continuing in the crack will lead you to unprotectable (without trad gear) moves that are slightly harder than 5.9.

  3. 5.10-: A quick boulder problem allowing you to stand on top of the pillar. Uncomforatble belay.

There is a short 3rd pitch to the top of the pillar on one bolt and old iron rings (or gear). It is short, but steep. There is a new anchor at the top with two hangers, there is also a rappel down the south side from the top.

Descend by rappelling down "Getting Wood". With twin 70m ropes you can make it down in a single rappel. 60m would also probably work but this is untested at the moment.

Alternate (and much harder) 2nd pitch for "Crack Test Dummies".

FA: Dane Bass & Curtis Mai

1 5.9 40m
2 5.10a 20m

Starts on the slab right of the palm tree and goes up right to the first anchor. From there follow the airy arrete to the top. Each pitch 6 bolts.

Just to the right of 2nd pitch of Aguja Celo Rey. Share anchors with that one. Gold bolts.

Alternate second pitch for "Aguja Celo Rey" -- goes up the other spire.

알고 계십니까?

귀하가 등반한 등정들의 기록, 추적 그리고 공유할 수 있는 계정을 만들 수 있다는 것을 알고 계십니까? 수천명의 등반가들이 이미 이런 일들을 하고 있습니다.

Selected Guidebooks more Hide

Author(s): Frank P. Madden

일자: 2022

ISBN: 979-8218024314

The latest guidebook to El Potrero Chico is now available in its third edition. This book has comprehensive detail of not just the routes but how and when to be there. Single pitch or multi-pitch, this book has it all. More great crag photos to help locate the spot you want to climb as well as plenty of topo photos to help you find all the routes you will want to climb. The new edition also has a new history, local history and geology section of the guidebook produced by local members of the community! There is also the long awaited index by grade! A comprehensive guidebook for all of El Potrero Chico, Las Ventanas de Mina (Crescent Moon Buttress and Culo de Gato), Grutas de García, La Popa and Boca de los Potrerillos. Including a couple newly developed crags called Narnia and SunnyVale, and more than a few new routes unpublished anywhere else. Has multi-pitch topo photos for the classic routes with pitch by pitch information.

Accommodations nearby more Hide

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