North Side Todos Escalada esportiva 11 vias no setor

Warning Fixed Gear: No top Anchors at the end of pitch II

Starts downhill and to the left on the taller spire. Look for the chimney system that goes up -- the climb starts in/up this chimney.

This is not your usual EPC 5.9; it is solid in the grade, not closely bolted, and a lot of crack work, rather than face climbing. Having some gear to supplement the missing bolt and the old iron pitons is a good idea unless you are completely solid at 5.9.

1. 5.7: Climb up blocky/vegetated ledges passed a few bolts to the anchor. Slightly runout but well protected where it counts.

2. 5.9: Follow the crack making use of jamming/chimney/dihedral technique passing a few bolts and old Mexican irons. At one of the Mexican irons, look out right for a bolt, you should come out of the crack and make your way up a bolted slab to the anchor. Continuing in the crack will lead you to unprotectable (without trad gear) moves that are slightly harder than 5.9.

3. 5.10-: A quick boulder problem allowing you to stand on top of the pillar. Uncomforatble belay.

There is a short 3rd pitch to the top of the pillar on one bolt and old iron rings (or gear). It is short, but steep. There is a new anchor at the top with two hangers, there is also a rappel down the south side from the top.

Descend by rappelling down "Getting Wood". With twin 70m ropes you can make it down in a single rappel. 60m would also probably work but this is untested at the moment.