등정들 Oceania에서 Dave Scarlett에 의한 trad-cpr 또는 ascent-date를 가진

Very nice, and quite similar to Skylark. Pitch 2 is a great way up to Glimmers lane from the Kestrel ledge for those not confidant to climb Skylark Direct Finish. Mostly easy slab climbing with a difficult section passing the bulge at the start of pitch 1, and then another passing the overlap above the old bolts at the start of pitch 2. Mostly small nuts for pro, with a few micro cams being useful.

Very tough for a 14 (especially the start) and quite runout. Only gear possible before the major horizontal crack was a couple of poor RPs!

Excellent! Finger to hand crack up the corner with surprising good feet on the right wall, traverse on wide horizontal crack (a BD C4 #4 size cam useful) over slab, then some awkward moves up after traverse, with a finger-sized useful in the end of the roof.

I'd say this is probably the worst way to get up the cliff, but then I haven't tried Locris yet...

Very run out. No reliable pro before the rusty carrot bolt, and then not much before the end either. Ended up clipping one of the nearby bolts on Summer Breeze. Interesting bollard moves at the start though. Single fixed hanger at belay can be backed up with trad gear or a long sling or cordelette reaching to the Skippy bolts.

Strenuous laybacking on flake/finger crack to start, then easing to a rest stance before a scary step right from the small corner to the crack. Cams around BD Camalot 0.4 - 0.5 are very useful. There are a couple of nut placements (or one nut and one micro cam) available in the corner before the traverse.

Nice crack - loose hands occasionally constricting. Takes #0.75 to #3 Camalots, or similar sized nuts and hexes. Shame it isn't longer and easier to access.

A runout section just after the start, but it's quite easy through that section (especially if you stay left). Fun moves around the upper flake and crack. I probably wouldn't send an inexperienced or non-confident leader up it though. Fairly lichenous.

Nice climbing, and well protected. Helps if you can jam, but it's not a necessity. Hard start on slab and cracks, becoming juggy in the upper section.

Covered in lichen, and has a poorly protected finish! Some nice moves aside from that though.

Would be great if it were a little longer, and maybe better protected. Runout start, with poor sling possible at 3m height (likely to come off when you move past it, unless you stand on it to keep it in place), then a good cam around BD C4 #2 size at 5m.

Terrifying crux moves with scarce and fiddly protection, and a big loose block right above the Bard belay. Eases slightly after that, though with a couple of committing roof sections. Used a lot of small nuts and micro cams, but no micro nuts.

Very nice, though with some loose blocks near the top.

A fun, end of day workout.

Nice jug hauling, with a couple of committing overhang sections.

Surely the guidebook description stating that this involves "just a touch of jamming" is a joke! A brilliant line with perfect hand jams almost the entire way. Quite possibly the best jam crack at Arapiles.

Difficult moves getting up after clipping first bolt, with small cam possible maybe 1m above and right of that bolt, then crux pulling past 2nd bolt on crimps and one poor foot, leading to an easier but delicate finish.

Took over after an spring leader bailed. Was surprised to find that the crux was much harder than 10, unless you've got good jamming technique.

Awkward and terrifying moves out of the cell, and overall much more sustained than I was expecting. A difficult layback start over slippery rock, and then two tough overhangs after the cell, the first of which is harder than the second.

Nice, but not the mega-classic it's made out to be. Easy start, then balancy, delicate, and run-out moves up the corner, and a fun, well protected crux finish traversing along the juggy flake and then up on difficult to find holds.

Felt like a bit of a sandbag. Easy slab moves to start with lots of small nut pro once you're a little way off the ground, but then the crux, getting up into the final chimney, is brutal for a 16, and possible more like grade 18! Small and micro cams were also useful.

Took a BD C4 #6 and Big Bros #2 and #3, plus a #4 WC Helium Friend as a test of what could be used in the offwidth sections. Found #6 is actually too small for the start of the crack (after the roof on P3), and then becomes too big when the crack suddenly narrows! I managed to get it in, but it was almost overcammed. A #5 would have been better there. The #4 Friend was too small for the very top of P3 too. Need BD #4 or another #5 instead, then #6 fits P4 when the crack narrows before the bolt.

Lovely climb with amazing position and good hand jamming opportunities. Would probably still be worth 2 stars even if it was at ground level.

Super awkward, with an unbelievably bouldery start for a 13. If you know any tall climbers that you don't like, send them up this on lead.

Old school. Bring your hexes and jamming abilities! Pumped out after struggling to find the right sized nut to protect the middle of the layback crux sequence on P2, and ended up resting immediately after getting some gear clipped. Should have just pulled up and finished the sequence instead.

Led pitches 2 & 3 as a single pitch, seconded the easy pitches. No drag issues with double ropes. Lovely cool shade in the chimney, but the 3rd belay was still in full sun.

P1: Brutally sustained, with an early crux just past the (ancient, dubious, unnecessary) bolt. The wide crack is often too big to be practical for cams, and while there is other, smaller, pro, it can be fiddly or sparse. The final mantle move isn't bad, with pro and holds available if you search.

P2: One difficult move to get past the roof, then cruisy, grade 15 climbing to the top. There's plenty of pro under the roof, but above is tricky.

Leaders should be confidant at the grade!

Difficult and reachy initial moves, then great, three-dimensional climbing up the crack. Bring your hexes.

Fantastic. You better be able to make a few hand jams in a row to get started! Awkward moves getting out from the roof and then up from there make this a real fight of a climb.

Brutally hard (though very well protected) crux for a 17! Found myself laybacking on a hand jam, trying to get a foot up on the ledge. A BD #3 size cam was very handy immediately after the crux.

Be sure to take slings - there's little if any other pro available after the 2nd bolt!

Gets seriously difficult when you reach the bolt. Obscenely reachy and bouldery moves to gain the poor, mossy ledge above the almost featureless wall containing the bolt, then up, strenuously, on a combination of jugs and crimps. Large horizontal crack below overhang will take a BD #4 cam easily, or a #3 if you find the narrowest sections. Got through the reachy crux cleanly, after backing off and returning to the ledge several times, but then pumped out while approaching the overhang.

Gets a bit exposed/scary when you reach the chimney and find yourself suddenly over a very large drop!

Felt like grade 11-12. Perhaps only graded 14 because there's no protection?

A thorough workout, involving laybacking, arm bars, knee jams and whatever else it takes. Looked like it might have been lead-protectable without too much big gear. The wide section of the left crack looked like it might have taken BD #4 deep inside, and there is a slingable chockstone maybe 5m from the top.

Ignore the detractors, this is a great climb, only slightly marred by the mossy slab section towards the top. Excellent finger/hand crack, widening to loose hands after the roof (crux), then easily climbing with a wide crack for protection. Runout mossy slab, then a short, thin hand crack finish. Cams to BD #4, with an extra #3 or #4 useful.

Easily up through slightly poor rock, then a thought-provoking layback crux at the start of the second corner.

Varied and thoroughly enjoyable. Delicate and crimpy slab moves to start, with the lower crux being just reaching the first bolt. Eases off after the third bolt (but is run out), until the big horizontal crack, where a great hand crack continues to the top, with maybe 6m of grade 16 crack climbing. From the ground it looks like it's all over after the horizontal crack, but this isn't the case! Take finger to hand sized cams and nuts, with a BD #2 or #3 for the horizontal crack.

Enjoyable and well-protected with small to medium nuts and cams. Tricky and slightly committing moves exiting the trench, and then again to gain the final ledge just before the top.

Horrific approach (steep with loose rock), but an excellent climb, marred only by some rocks which felt a touch insecure. Committing start past 3 big (and probably secure) chockstones before protection is possible in the crack behind. More committing moves to get past the roof. Overall reasonably well protected with cams and small nuts.

Chossy and vegetated first half.

Some nice hand jams, but really not much else going for it.

Not bad. Not great. Quoit average.

Fantastic! Like Muldoon for grown-ups. Bouldery and poorly protected start, though if you have micro-cams, the small, horiz undercling visible from the ground will take something in the 12-14mm range. Steep and committing jug hauling after the initial traverse, then some super exposed moves as you traverse right under the blank section. Climbed on a 60m double folded in half and had no issues with rope drag, but reaching the top was literally rope stretching and 30m will not reach the bolts!

I thought this would stay dry in and after rain. I thought wrong. Pockets at the top of the initial traverse were seeping and felt like someone had rubbed a wet bar of soap inside them.