Ascents in Oceania by Dave Scarlett having trad-cpr or ascent-date

Thought provoking through the middle, then tough cranking through the roof to finish. Mostly small cams and nuts, but a BD #2 was handy through the roof.

Too much friction to pull the rope we rappelled in on, so had to rope-solo up to fix it! Easy bridging.

Amazing position at the grade and better protected than the guidebook claims, as long as you save a big (BD #3 or #4) cam for the big pocket around the arete.

A little run out on the middle.

The vertical, wide crack thrutch at the top seems like an unreasonable ask at the alleged grade.

Thin and cruxy through the middle, before the juggy roof finish brings relief. Took one rest at the crux.

If the starting moves were half way up the route, this would probably be graded 20. Very nice climbing once you're through there bouldery start, but definitely not recommended for those only just leading 14!

Amazing! Full value and very thought provoking at the grade. A little reachy in parts, and often gives you good hands or feet, but not both. Gear wasn't bad, and I managed to sew it up with 9 very solid placements, mostly small nuts and micro to loose fingers sized cams. Double ropes helped a lot by allowing wandering placements without rope drag, and the gear in the first half was all there, but certainly trickier than the top half. Didn't use any RPs, but it looked like they could awkwardly be placed in the middle of the sickle crack crux. Much easier to just place a good cam at the start and end of the crack. The chimney and traverse start is easy, and I didn't bother protecting it. Just consider it part of the walk in instead if you don't like it.

Very nice, and a little reminiscent of Spiegal's Overhang at Cathedral Range. Shame it's a bit harder to descend from!

As with Spiegal's, pitch 3 is the money pitch.

Partial shade at the 2nd and 3rd belays. Final pitch finishes at a ledge with options to walk left to join Syrinx, or walk right to presumably reach the wheelchair lookout. You can also continue straight up through the short overhang, extending the pitch length to about 40m, to get to the very top, then walk left and scramble down to the Missing Link/Bluffs area.

Nice face climbing, but with a hard starting move that's probably more like grade 15. Found the gear to be fine, getting in 8-9 good, evenly-spaced pieces. Big gear unnecessary as you can alternatively just sling a bollard at the front of the big horizontal break.

Lovely arete climbing, possibly a bit soft at the grade, though made serious by very fiddly protection. Shame about the manufactured foothold at the start and the awkwardly set-back anchors at the top.

Lovely climbing, with a difficult (though avoidable) start and another tricky section through the roof. Beware, it is completely unprotected from the start of the ramp until after after the roof unless you have a #5 cam, with the exception of an old carrot bolt that the guidebook tells you not to trust.

Nice bridging and pulling on jugs through the overhang.

P1 nice slabbing but poorly protected, maybe up to 5m runouts, and is probably the crux pitch. P2 more slabbing around a bush-filled crack. P3 is the money pitch, beautiful climbing up a corner crack and two overhangs (at grade 10!), with jamming being strictly optional. P4 easy climbing up a trench and slabs to the top.

All belays except for the end of P3 are narrow stances, so wouldn't recommend climbing this as a three. Rappel anchors (2 x 55m rappels) are only 10-15m left of the end of the climb, below a tree, and the path marked is by a couple of cairns.

Gear: Cams from finger size up to loose hands (Camalot #2).

Steep, finger crack finish adds a bit of value to the route.

Requires a bit of jamming and grovelling. Definitely not one for gym climbers who are new to the outdoors.

Finish up the arete for maximum value.

Surprisingly tricky start, both in terms of moves and protection.

Good, but beware that there's very little protection in the (easier) first half.

A tricky start and some painful hand jams.

Quite good, despite its short length, with some nice bridging and laybacking.

An awkward thrutch getting into the bulging hand crack, and once you're there you might have hand jams, but still no feet!

An early crux pulling through the bulge on sparse holds, then cruisy to the top. Mostly small nut pro, big cams unnecessary. Looked like a decent belay ledge at 30-35m.

Committing moves through the mantle, with decent protection but the potential to swing into a side-wall if you come off.

A 16 that starts with a bottomless wide crack? Surely this is a sandbag. Fun moves off the ground but it's over very quickly. A BD #3 and/or #4 sized cam is very useful.

P1 long and consistent, well protected, though a bit wandery to find the best climbing, as it isn't really a defined line. P2 quickly eases and becomes cruisy, before a ridiculous finish involving either traversing along the lip of an overhang, or pulling up over it early and thrutching through.

Gear: Lots of small nuts, cams to BD#2

Very nice once you get away from the greasy rock of Jason. Awesome moves pulling through the bulge near the top.

Really nice the whole way. Climbed the right-facing corner 2m left of the usual line for pitches 2-3 in order to avoid another party. These two pitches can be strung together in order to overtake, rejoining the usual line at the chimney.

Very nice. The bulging wide crack corner at the end of P1 was a pleasant surprise (for those masochistically inclined), though is easily avoidable. P2 has a very definite crux right off the ledge, but is all over after the first few meters. Takes mostly finger size nuts and cams, though a loose-hands size cam is useful if you want to take the corner crack finish to P1.

The crack sections are easy, the slabs trickier, and then it's difficult to know where to go to find the "path of least resistance" after the second crack. I ended slightly left of the rap chain, which was tough, committing and lacking protection. Double ropes seemed to help.

P1: Sustained pitch, but reasonably well protected with double ropes and micro cams. P2: Mostly cruisy but with a committing crux and sparse protection above the mid-pitch ledge. P3: Easy after the first 5m. Led P1 and P2.

Gear: micro cams and small nuts/RPs, occasional medium size cams, hand-size cams for the belays. Double ropes pretty much essential.

Definite crux in the slightly bulging chimney around 1/3-1/2 height. Otherwise cruisy with plenty of jugs.

Very nice, but tough for the grade. Difficulty ramps up in the second half, and rope drag will be a major issue unless you place protection sparsely and with long runners - especially when exiting the cave.

Gear was ok, but having small and micro cams was definitely useful.

Frighteningly sparse gear through the corner at 1/2 height. Managed to get two cams in, a red and a blue, where the crack opens a metre below the hard moves there, but neither were ideal placements. That's definitely the mental crux, with the physical crux being the top of the finishing flake.

Nice and consistent climbing, a good addition to this wall.

Led on Hywel Rowlands' pre-placed gear.

Tough moves getting through the bolt-protected bulge at the start, then easier slab climbing in the middle, before a slight committing finish. Quite nice.

Very nice. Much more interesting than D Minor, I thought.

Nice and long, with a slabby, bolt-protected crux passing the obvious roof. The only runout section is the grade 15 start shared with Blind Sox, after that there's plenty of pro.