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1 8 40m
2 8 21m
3 9 14m
4 8 30m

description

A truly great climb up the middle of the Watchtower. Many variants are possible in the middle section and many parties do the Minerva variant (described separately).

Start up the right-hand of the two deep cracks at the base of The Watchtower. This is just left of the undercut section, and 9 metres right of the start of The 'Watchtower Chimney'.

  1. (40m, 8) Up deep crack until it ends. Traverse 4 metres right, up over disconcerting bulge and follow crack to large ledge. (The first ascent traversed all the way to the right arete before climbing bulge).

  2. (21m, 8) Either climb up left of the belay or climb just right of the crack until below bulge and then step left over the crack. Belay on narrow ledge below overhang on left side of The Watchtower.

  3. (14m, 9) Either climb straight up veering slightly right, or traverse right on smooth rock past ancient piton before moving right. Belay in a good cave on the right side of the buttress.

  4. (30m, 8) Move left out of cave and up exhilarating wall to top. Prearrange your signals as communication is likely to be impossible from the top.

Route history

1 Nov 1964First ascent: Ian Speedie & Rob McQuilkin

Warnings

Location

Lat/Lon: -36.75189, 141.83761

Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)

Grade citation

8,8,9,8 Assigned grade
10 A Rockclimbers Guide to Arapiles/Djurite
8 RockGUIDE: Victoria
9 *** ACA Route Register
9 Arapiles, Selected Climbs

ethic

Mount Arapiles is first and foremost a trad climbing area. The few sport climbs tend to be in the higher grades where no natural pro is available.

Bolting, particularly retro-bolting, is discouraged and should only be undertaken after extensive consultation with the local climbers, first ascensionists, etc. Inappropriately placed bolts have been chopped.

Do not chip the rock.

Look after the park.

  • Stick to the paths.

  • Don't disturb the wildlife.

  • Routes near peregrine falcon nesting sites are closed in the spring.

  • Minimise the impact of your camping (fuel stoves not fires, take your rubbish with you, etc).

inherited from Arapiles

Seasonality

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Seasonality

Quality

Mega Classic
Classic
Very Good
Good
Average
Don't Bother
Crap

Overall quality 79 from 471 ratings.

Tick Types

Onsight 273
Flash 5
Solo 26
Red point 17
Tick 209
Top rope 1
Attempt 5
Target 18

Comment keywords

perfect classy great sweet wicked exciting classic amazing good awesome cool enjoyable super lovely nice beautiful ripper fantastic superb pleasant incredible brilliant satisfying fun scary unnerving runout exposed tricky committing tough hard difficult epic interesting short adventurous arete traverse feet awkward chimney face bail mantle rest crazy smooth roof easy crack slippery jugs vertical

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