Vias em Central Coast para uma graduação selecionada

Stem up cornerto slopey ledge then run out past 3rd carrot to single U anchor.

Start up arete with bouldery start past 2 RBs to carrot and further RB to single U anchor

A mixed route that starts as for Feast For Fingers, moving up to the horizontal break at 7mts and traversing R across the wall into the cave. Mixed gear and a couple of rings

3 pitch Odyssey. Pitch 1: 15m grade 10 easy climbing to good belay. pitch 2 15m grade 15 traverse (very 'airy') to chain. Pitch 3, LH 2 finger pocket and RH slot, up headwall LH smooth sloper, then to 2 finger pocket (crux) match to RH 2 finger pocket. Big LH move to Jug, then techo jug moves to desperate top out finished with customary unclip and launch into thin air!

2m right of gully. Boulder problem start and straight up to bulge, slightly right then balancy move to topout. 3 U-Bolts.

3m L of B. A devious problem.

Thin crack up the short wall.

Mixed gear with old carrots and a couple of cams #0.5 - 1 to get you to the top.

Start same as Daily Bread and straight up the L leaning crack. 2 U-bolts then cams to the top. Lower offs

Variant 2nd pitch for TBL. From Double bolt belay, move R under roof with bomber friends, then up face past a U bolt. Cams protect the remainder of the climb. Chain belay as for TBL.

Up past BR through juggy terrain. Mantel onto small ledge then up over roof before first U-bolt. Finish up headwall past another U-bolt and cam placement.

Start: 2m left of the 'Triangle' corner.

3m L of CC. The short wall with the undercut start. One BR, U-bolt and a #1.5 cam. Belay off tree.

This route commences on the far left end of the sports wall just beyond the cave and detached monolith. Climb the wall through 5 carrots just left of the cave, tricky move past crux. Mixed gear above and tree to belay.

5m L of THC is an attractive vertical crack. Up this with wires and cams for 8mts before your first ring bolt. Crux. up to horizontal break ( a cam if you are worried) tending L to another ring bolt. Continue L to a short crack system (another cam or wire) then straight up passing two more rings. Double ring bolt anchor. rebolted 2016

Hard moves up a vertical face. A couple of bolts and fixed hangers.

Tackles the thin wall L of FHS. Hard to get off ground followed by some dicey hold above horizontal break. Continue straight up past easier country using mixed gear and belay from tree.

The alluring arete R of Mary's Little Lamb. Starts from the ground and just L of the arete. #3 cam adds a bit of comfort getting beyond the horizontal break before heading R for the arete. rap anchors on top.

The last climb on Crack'n up Wall. 6 U-bolts plus a few medium cams will bring you safely to a rap anchor.

Start as for BLS. At the horizontal break at 3/4 height, traverse left along Cam break to join CBC and up via FH.

Hidden away and almost missed, its 25m up and over the rise L of LLL. Crimp your way up compact wall on user friendly holds (not), passing 2 bolt runners to horizontal break (#3 cam). Now up to hold and over bulge, bolt runner on high crimps.

Abseil in as for The Contortionist. On ground level, walk right (facing in) ~20m to start just left of small cave.

Bolts and gear. BD 0.3 - 3 used for FA.

1. (30m) Mixed - 22 - Trend up and right past 3 bolts to double crack system with good cams. Continue straight up past a couple more bolts, traversing right after the scoops along grassy ledge. Straight up crack with gear to DBB on ledge.

2. (25m) Sport - 23 - Bridge overhanging corner to gain thin flake over bulge. Move up small edges trending towards the arete. Traverse delicately right to a tricky crux guarding the anchor. Semi-hanging chain belay.

3. (25m) Sport - 20 - The price of admission. Move left and up into chossy cave. Clip fixed tat and bolt, then mantle onto platform. Traverse left and up on slopers to a botanical and balancey finish.

4. (20m) Mixed - 16 - Straight up blocky corner with good gear. A bolt protects the scramble to the lunch ledge. DUB on top of block.

5. (15m) Sport - 21 - Straight up the right side of arete to a break, followed by crux on great orange rock. DBB over the bulge. Can lower off to the lunch ledge or top out and walk around.

Up the face to cave at 2/3 height then final headwall

2m right of WNW. Over bulge. Gnarly second clip if you're short. 2 RBs, 1 BR, #1.5 friend below top.

4m L of B. Pump start - slab finish. Up to first BR, then snap for the next couple of jugs and bomb proof #3 or #2.5 friend placement. On to second BR on lip then up slab (3rd and final BR) to belay tree atop block.

Up the easy wall passing 2 U-bolts, then and awkward move onto a sloping ledge. Up the orange stain, #1 & 2 cams in the middle then two rings to the top. Belay from the tree.

Top rope problem 2m left of corner, never bolted due to poor rock. Up center of short wall through roof and short headwall above. DBB.

At right hand end of short wall. Boulder up rounded flakes. Top rope or solo only.

Bouldery start up to the labial feature,then straight up to the same anchors as BP

Up 2m R of Mr Creosote on low arête and then through small roof and head wall to anchors back from edge on boulder. Need to abseil off to clean. Alternatively use DBB on route to right.

The black slab right of Snake Eyes. Often wet. Careful of runouts.

Climbs the face just right of the steep wall. Up slab trending right at halfway then delicatly up the steepening wall to top.

A bit contrived - try not to use any holds of Absolute Honey. Direct to first ring shared with AH then pass a bolt, traverse left to flake under a ring bolt and up pass another bolt. Shared anchors with 'Sniffing Dogs'

Starts directly below left end of cave 3. Up past a chipped undercling and a few more chipped holds to slopey mantle into cave. Straight up rim of cave and hard move past bolt to finish.

As for Vitology but keep going left.

Shared start with White Out in corner then head right under roof and up short headwall.

• Back-leading is recommended to clean the route. Too much rope drag exists in order to top-rope from the anchors.

Start on the featured bulge in in the top cave.

The arête at right side of wall . Climbs the right face. Unfortunately first bolt makes you swing around arête if you come off, just start with second clipped. A long sling over the edge from anchors on platform will protect last moves.

2m left of HIW. Start up past 3 BRs. Again best to down climb to save a lot of mess.

Start in the corner on the right hand side of cave (shared start with Gonzo). Hard start to a pumpy traverse left. Shared anchors with Farout

Starts at the far left of the top cave. Lean out and grab the ledge then traverse for 3 bolts and head straight up to anchors. Tree start has largely disappeared.

Interesting Taipan-bridge start to gain break. Up onto slab which is continually engaging all the way to the clip+lower anchors.

The first line on the R side of this wall. Hard move to start if doing direct and up past RB to first (bolt reinforced) flakey plate then move R to 2nd (bolt reinforced) flakey plate and up to anchors

Start as for YDBTR to break, then move R clipping a FH to big flake feature. Climb the slab above, always tending R past several UB's, finishing through bulge (sure, use the jugs on the right) to chain anchor.

starts on the left or right side of the undercut block at the right end of the large cave. 2 rings are placed to allow either start.Straight up to the steepening wall and the anchors directly above. Rebolted by Paul Riviere july 2015. Much safer than the earlier version by Richard. (He gave his blessing to the rebolting)

Starts 4mts L of Blubber Fish. The ramp trending L then up past two artificial holds (bolted and glued). Move R again up to L facing corner then to anchors

Last line of bolts in the lower cave

Start as for 'Swampy Cow Corner'. At 2nd bolt trend right onto orange wall. Weave up this trying to locate anything that might be actually usable amongst the sea of slopers. Finish at double rings under roof.

Start as for Techtonic until third ring then branches off left to the lower offs on L side of upper wall. Rebolted by Paul Riviere july 2015 with Gordon's blessing

Start as for Nauti Buoy up to the artificial holds then straight up to anchors

At right end of wall, veering left after second bolt and joining shared anchors of SKB

Undercut scoop with long move to get onto slab. DBB shared with Sabbatical

Left hand route of the buttress. Clip-stick the first bolt.

Start up Omega Free and traverse through Ados route and fishermans basket to anchors of Tartar.

Just L of F&B is a stunning black wall. Initialled BBB. All on RBs now. Hard moves through pockets then balancy step right and up to ledge and crack to shared anchors with route to right

The route LEFT of the cave with good steep moves down low and a tricky slab move up high. Bolt plates needed. Head up into lower cave and clip first bolt out left and left out cave and up to single U bolt anchor. 3 carrots on top of route if you need to clean it and can't get to anchor.

Middle route on the wall. Stick Clip. Belayer should not stand below climber stepping out onto head wall.

Right end of main wall, up next to crack with chockstones, trending slightly left when it gets steep at 4 th bolt. Through short roof onto head wall to DBB. Can be done direct at harder grade.

Harder left hand variant start to TAB, right after first clip then as for TAB. 4BR, DBB.

1. From ground ascend through gap in ferns then with trepidation through chossy rock to ledge as for Hang Five.

2. Up fused corner to left side of arete.

Retrobolted. Start under R hand side of roof 1m to the left of TBTW (initialled). Yellow rock. Up passing rings, veer left then traverse back under 2 roofs to join the upper crack as TBTW to same finish Originally done with cams now fully ring bolted.

Righthand route on the main wall. Unfortunately it is impossible to use the line of holds to the right of the bolts without putting one's back to the tree. A direct, tree-free ascent awaits.

Steep climbing, out the 45deg wall, short but pumpy.

3m left of JDI, straight up and over bulge. 4BR, DBB which is on top of large block in front of dead tree. Heading left to the ring bolts above the crack misses the crux.

Take the direct line of 'Go North Young Thang' and avoid the left ledge above the slab by clipping the lower traverse bolt before heading up on the thin pockets and crimps. Looks like it will be a great line, but a bit contrived.

Short wall with three bolts. Starts off ledge 1m L of PMMHH. Straight up wall past some dubious rock to the cave. Nice mantle to finish. Belay in back of cave. Rap off.

Starting 2m from the left arete, out through the steep cave.

10mts R of Christian Soldier. Does not look much but worth the effort. Interesting moves above the top bulge. Lower off anchors

Starts as for Oysterland 1st pitch. 2nd Pitch - clip 1st ring of Oysterland the move L to the arete. Onto face and straight up using cams to protect.

1 Fixed hanger then 2 carrots. Start on L side of nose, then move R onto nose for easy arête climbing

Start in back of cave, out lip and up on crimpers to lower off under rooflet.

Start: As for Rumba

Veer right up wall to finish up the the right side of of the prominent overhanging block.

Start R side of nose at fixed hanger. Up passed carrot and L to join Getting Over it at 3rd bolt (carrot), and up.

Up the nice orange/red rock moving leftward at the 3rd bolt. Then cast off left from good block to slopey crimpers and reachy moves, to get across to 4th bolt. Trend up and left to get stood up via little footers. Great technical climbing, that is well protected.

Starts at overhand 3 R of Pearly Gates. Move L and follow U-bolts to interesting top move

Initialled BJ. Fully rebolted and do as one pitch. Starts 3m L of HIL. Up the little slab to horizontal then up over small roof to orange corner and up to next roof. Yeehaa. Reach out blindly to clip fixed hanger, now swing on out and up trending R. To easy but airy ground to belay off tree in cave. Retrobolted 2012 Anchors are back behind block.

Starts right of undercut, straight up

Follows the seam near the start of the cave on slopey goodness to ledge then traverse roof to Lofty's (spider pig's) anchors.