Grade | Via | Estilo de equipamento | Popularidade | Local de escalada | |
---|---|---|---|---|---|
23 | ★★★ Roast Lobster
Up 'Lobster', Diagonally right then through roof flake to lower off. FA: Jason Piper | 12m | Bouddi National Park | ||
22 | ★★ Pockets of Blood
Slopey underclinging. Same start as 'Lobster' for the first 2 bolts then trend left onto 3 bolts to finish at 'Second Cave Carrots' anchors. FA: Anthony Alexander | 8m | Bouddi National Park | ||
V3 | ★★ Lara's Lips
Sit start as low as possible on the right side of ships bow and follow the huge slopey jugs to top out right at the top. | 3m | Koolewong | ||
23 | ★★ Big Black Box
Just L of F&B is a stunning black wall. Initialled BBB. All on RBs now. Hard moves through pockets then balancy step right and up to ledge and crack to shared anchors with route to right FA: andrew powell & Phil Stallard, 1993 | 15m, 5 | Joll's Bridge | ||
V3 | ★★ Lara's Bottom Lip
Start as for Lara's Lips, traverse left low using the bowl and up from the horn. | 3m | Koolewong | ||
22 | ★★ Scallops
Up the nice orange/red rock moving leftward at the 3rd bolt. Then cast off left from good block to slopey crimpers and reachy moves, to get across to 4th bolt. Trend up and left to get stood up via little footers. Great technical climbing, that is well protected. FA: Paul Rivere | 10m, 5 | Bouddi National Park | ||
V3 | ★ Fat Lip
Start at mantle just right of 'Love Jugs'. Traverse all the way to the Low Eliminate Wall and keep going until passed the finish of 'The Gape' (which is a climb at the Low Eliminate Wall) FA: TD, 1999 | 14m | Umina | ||
23 | ★★ Beautiful Box
Follows the seam near the start of the cave on slopey goodness to ledge then traverse roof to Lofty's (spider pig's) anchors. FA: anthony alexander | 10m | Bouddi National Park | ||
23 | ★★ Will O The Wasp
Starts directly below left end of cave 3. Up past a chipped undercling and a few more chipped holds to slopey mantle into cave. Straight up rim of cave and hard move past bolt to finish. | 15m | Bouddi National Park | ||
23 | ★★ Hang Out
Start on the featured bulge in in the top cave. FA: Paul Riviere | 8m, 4 | Blackwall | ||
V3 | ★★ Lara's Secret Slot
Same as Lara's Bottom Lip but keep heading left to just before the tree, then up. | 4m | Koolewong | ||
V3 | ★★ Swiss Cheese
Start back underneath low hanging roof on big and thin underling, out to edge of lip then up arete using any holds. FA: Anthony Alexander, 1999 | 6m | Umina | ||
V3 | ★★ Dead or Alive
Climb the right hand side of the cave tending right to the big hueco on the face. Use a low R/H side pull/ pinch thing, gain the big hueco then move up to finish matched on the ledge Start: Sit start as for "we'll never make it out alive" FA: Daniel De Silva, 2000 | 4m | Dark Forrest | ||
22 | ★ Intralabial layback
Bouldery start up to the labial feature,then straight up to the same anchors as BP FA: paul, 1987 | 10m, 5 | Bouddi National Park | ||
22 | ★ Rapunzel Let Down Your hair
A bit contrived - try not to use any holds of Absolute Honey. Direct to first ring shared with AH then pass a bolt, traverse left to flake under a ring bolt and up pass another bolt. Shared anchors with 'Sniffing Dogs' FA: ross linsley & paul riviere, 1993 | 10m, 4 | Joll's Bridge | ||
22 | ★★ Maiden Voyage
| 17m | Tascott | ||
22 | ★★ Snake Eyes
Climbs the face just right of the steep wall. Up slab trending right at halfway then delicatly up the steepening wall to top. FA: Tim Haasnoot, 2006 | 24m, 8 | Popran | ||
V3 | ★★ What's Golden
Start: Sit start on small edges on the left hand cave wall. FA: Daniel De Silva, 2000 | 4m | Dark Forrest | ||
23 | ★★ Fishermans basket
Up slopes to undercling, then hard move to gain upper section of cave. Move left on slopey ledge to exciting sitting finish.Starts just after the first pinch gap on the low bolt. Back jump to clean. | 16m, 7 | Bouddi National Park | ||
22 | ★★ B Jam
Initialled BJ. Fully rebolted and do as one pitch. Starts 3m L of HIL. Up the little slab to horizontal then up over small roof to orange corner and up to next roof. Yeehaa. Reach out blindly to clip fixed hanger, now swing on out and up trending R. To easy but airy ground to belay off tree in cave. Retrobolted 2012 Anchors are back behind block. FA: andrew powell & paul riviere, 1993 | 40m, 13 | Joll's Bridge | ||
V3 | ★★ Trans Nightmare
Climb the little face veering right Start: Standing FA: Daniel da Silva, 2000 | 3m | Woy Woy | ||
V3 | ★ Lara's secret direct
Sit start next to tree and go straight up | 3m | Koolewong | ||
23 | ★★ White Out
Start in the corner on the right hand side of cave (shared start with Gonzo). Hard start to a pumpy traverse left. Shared anchors with Farout FA: Paul Riviere | 10m, 4 | Blackwall | ||
22 | ★★ Funky see funky do
Just left at the top of the hill. 3 RB to Double RB lower-off. Caution: One of the lower off RB's is only half in the rock | 15m, 3 | Point Clare | ||
23 | ★★ Sand Man
Retrobolted. Start under R hand side of roof 1m to the left of TBTW (initialled). Yellow rock. Up passing rings, veer left then traverse back under 2 roofs to join the upper crack as TBTW to same finish Originally done with cams now fully ring bolted. FA: J Wilde & D Wilde, 1994 | 25m | Joll's Bridge | ||
V3 | ★★ Right Arete
| 3m | Koolewong | ||
21/22 | ★ Swine Traverse
Starts at the far left of the top cave. Lean out and grab the ledge then traverse for 3 bolts and head straight up to anchors. Tree start has largely disappeared. FA: Paul Riviere | 10m, 3 | Blackwall | ||
V3 | ★★ Top Shelf
Traverse the obvious ledge rightwards and out through the roof to a long move to gain the ledge where it runs out towards the lip of the cave. Finish matched on the sloping ledge just around the corner. Start: Sit start at the far left of cave on farthest jug. FA: Dan da Silva, 2000 | 6m | Bouddi National Park | ||
V3 | ★ Kukri
Starting matched of large side pull make a few moves directly upwards before mantelling and topping out FA: William Frost-Foster | 2m | Point Clare | ||
V2/3 | ★★ Adders Tongue
Sit/crouch start with L/H on undercling and R/H on incut sloper. Hard first move into sloped edge on the right then make your way left to top out around the left side of the feature. FA: Gabriel Grimison | Apex boulders | |||
23 | ★ Gonzo
Shared start with White Out in corner then head right under roof and up short headwall.
FA: john wilde | 10m | Blackwall | ||
23 | ★★ Cross the Line
Step down off platform, 8 m right of DCG, to the right of a white roof, and up wall minding the sundews. | 15m, 6 | Point Clare | ||
22 | ★ Gaucho
The second most R route on the crag.Hard, thin moves up the face left of the arete. Single ring bolt belay. Can use an extender as well as a draw on Areptile's single ring bolt for additional protection. FA: Ross Linsley, 1991 | 10m, 3 | Bouddi National Park | ||
V3 | ★ Green Chili
Stand start matched on side pull moving up and left to top shared top out with 'Red Chili' | 3m | Point Clare | ||
23 | ★★ Techtonic
starts on the left or right side of the undercut block at the right end of the large cave. 2 rings are placed to allow either start.Straight up to the steepening wall and the anchors directly above. Rebolted by Paul Riviere july 2015. Much safer than the earlier version by Richard. (He gave his blessing to the rebolting) FA: richard jeffrey, 2000 | 12m, 7 | Blackwall | ||
22 | ★★ Sun King Baby
Start at initialled SKB. Veer right and then back left after second bolt. Recently rebolted, all rings with anchors. FA: andrew powell & paul, 1995 | 15m, 5 | Joll's Bridge | ||
22 | ★ Tartar
Climb the first four bolts on fishermans basket through short roof then right to anchors. | 8m, 4 | Bouddi National Park | ||
23 | ★ George's daughter
The line of clean rock directly below the DRB, 1.5m L of Centrepiece and 1m R of the crappy 23. Clean rock and good moves including multiple underclings. FA: George Fieg, 1990 | 8m, 4 | Bouddi National Park | ||
23 | ★★ Rather be Dead than Red
3m left of JDI, straight up and over bulge. 4BR, DBB which is on top of large block in front of dead tree. Heading left to the ring bolts above the crack misses the crux. FA: Richard Jeffrey, 1996 | 10m, 4 | Blackwall | ||
V3 | ★★ Kusabimaru
Same matched start as Ōdachi but moving directly up. FA: William Frost-Foster | 4m | Point Clare | ||
V2/3 | ★★ Sagittarius
On right hand side of the same bloc as The Aquarius. Low start on small crimps. Climb up and left using good edges until you make the arete and then traverse up and right along it until you make the “V” shaped jug 2/3rds of the way up. Top out from there to finish. Video link: https://www.instagram.com/tv/CZYgUPWJA6b/?utm_source=ig_web_copy_link FA: Gabriel Grimison | Copacabana | |||
V3 | ★★ Left Face Dyno
Dyno from the start edge to the horn/highest point. | 3m | Koolewong | ||
V3 | ★ Red Chili
Start matched on jug moving up and slightly left to top out | 3m | Point Clare | ||
V3 | ★ These Children Must be Sex Tables
Start at right end on low flat rail. Cross through to edges and out to pocket. Finish up Childs play. Avoid the big juggy stuff. Start: Sit start at far R/H end FA: dan, 2000 | Woy Woy | |||
V3 | ★ Yellow Submarine
FA: Daniel da Silva, 2006 | Umina | |||
V3 | ★★ Pilum
Stand start to Falarica from the first good sloper move directly up and top out. | 3m | Point Clare | ||
V3 | ★★ Ridin on the Bump Stops
Follow the crack up and right and move into the horizontal break (grab as undercling), top out up and right. Start: Sit start at crack as for 'Road side assistance' Can be done as a stand start at V3 FA: dan | 3m | Woy Woy | ||
22 | ★★ Vertical Python
The black slab right of Snake Eyes. Often wet. Careful of runouts. FA: 2004 | 24m | Popran | ||
22 | ★ Putting shame in your game
Right line on block. Start up chossy undercut (take care) to first high clip, then up over bulges. Watch the tree behind you. 2 BRs and 1 RB. FA: Shane Hirst & Dana Cooper, 2002 | 10m, 3 | Woy Woy | ||
22 | ★ Funk Soul Mother
At right end of wall, veering left after second bolt and joining shared anchors of SKB FA: V Wills & D Gray, 2012 | 15m, 5 | Joll's Bridge | ||
23 | ★★ Sagittarius
Start as for Techtonic until third ring then branches off left to the lower offs on L side of upper wall. Rebolted by Paul Riviere july 2015 with Gordon's blessing FA: gordon porter, 2000 | 15m, 7 | Blackwall | ||
22 | ★★ Late for the Circus
The arête at right side of wall . Climbs the right face. Unfortunately first bolt makes you swing around arête if you come off, just start with second clipped. A long sling over the edge from anchors on platform will protect last moves. FFA: Vanessa Wills, Feb 2018 | 11m, 3 | Koolewong | ||
V3 | ★★ Predator
Start matched as for rotary club,no feet on lower rock, come out through good edges then bust out right to sidepull, then up to sloper on the lip and climb up through sidepulls and edges in the break FA: Murray Taylor | 3m | Apex boulders | ||
23 | ★ Contrivial Pursuit
Stay on the vertical face for the grade, easier if mantled onto the slab FA: Jason Piper | 12m, 3 | Point Clare | ||
V3 | ★★ Actual Size
A great little proble thats much trickier than it looks. Sit start to the left of the little ramp. Follow the rib up and mantle on top to finish up the face to the right. Start: Sit start at lower left side of ramp FA: dan, 2000 | Woy Woy | |||
V3 | ★ Gosford Skirt
4 metres left of the iron spike, sit start near corner. Hands and feet must remain on top of roof, exiting right near the metal post. | 5m | The Entrance Baths | ||
V3 | ★ Spicy Heatwave
Start on right side of cave and traverse the thin seam up to jug on corner and top out as for “Original”. All holds are in for your feet. FA: Matthew Hingee | Bouddi National Park | |||
23 | ★ Asthetic Arrest
| 9m | Tascott | ||
V3 | ★★ Chopping Block
Sit start at the centre of the long rail. Press up and grab an edge in the middle of the steep face then straight up to the top of the prow & over. Avoids using the 'Arete' like 'Corner block V2' Start: Sit start FA: Daniel Rowlins, 2008 | 2m | Woy Woy | ||
V3 | ★★ Cupcake
Sit start on the good hold then straight up. Only feet on the ramp out left. FA: Scrumpy, 12 Sep 2021 | Berrys Head | |||
22 | ★★ The Penthouse
The route LEFT of the cave with good steep moves down low and a tricky slab move up high. Bolt plates needed. Head up into lower cave and clip first bolt out left and left out cave and up to single U bolt anchor. 3 carrots on top of route if you need to clean it and can't get to anchor. FA: Jason Piper | 20m, 6 | West Gosford | ||
22 | ★ Getting On with It
Starts right of undercut, straight up | 10m | West Gosford | ||
23 | ★ The Box
Starts 8mts L of Techtonic. Crux start up the steep cavity to horizontal break at about 3.5 m. Upwards tending L around into the boxy corner. Enjoy some good old fashioned jamming (remember this is a sport climb) before leaving the crack and moving back onto the wall. Depending on the moisture continue straight up or trend a little right. Fun climb FA: paul riviere, 4 Jul 2015 | 15m, 9 | Blackwall | ||
V3 | ★ Iron Rod
2m right of iron bollard is a large 2 handed pocket. Start with straight arm hang from here, feet up above the natural brown line - on steep ground only. Then it's one contrived move to glory. | The Entrance Baths | |||
V3 | ★★ Indi
The cluster of smaller free-standing boulders in front of ABNPOC. Sit start at the crack. Up then reach left to the arete and up. FA: Jason Smith, 18 Sep 2021 | Berrys Head | |||
23 | ★★ Deliverance
| 15m | Umina | ||
23 | ★★ Far Left Out
| 15m | Umina | ||
V3 | ★ Conscription
Fun technical slab traverse. Sit start matched on jug on the corner and make your way around using large flake. Some tricky feet to gain the undercling and then two crimps before the final jug and top out. Top edge is out until you reach the last hold. Video link: https://www.instagram.com/tv/CZYhgKoJlvo/?utm_source=ig_web_copy_link FA: Gabriel Grimison | 2m | Copacabana | ||
V3 | G String Theory
The back pocketed wall. Sit start and up the left side of the bikini feature. Big reach around to halfway break, then finish on the wall out left | 3m | Koolewong | ||
23 | ★★ Radio Wisdom
Start at the left of the cave, tough first move then traverse out right past 3 more bolts to finish at top of cliff at 1 U bolt. FA: Jason Piper | 18m, 6 | West Gosford | ||
V3 | ★★ Hungery Sex Tables
Start in front of small ledge below big jug. Climb directly up to top out slightly leftish.Fab Start: Standing off small ledge FA: Guy Koller, 2000 | Woy Woy | |||
23 | ★ Right ward route ? name
Up 2m R of Mr Creosote on low arête and then through small roof and head wall to anchors back from edge on boulder. Need to abseil off to clean. Alternatively use DBB on route to right. FA: paul riviere? | 25m | Popran | ||
23 | Solumn Column
Start R side of nose at fixed hanger. Up passed carrot and L to join Getting Over it at 3rd bolt (carrot), and up. | 9m, 3 | West Gosford | ||
V3 | ★★ Observer
Climb directly up the steepish wall not using the good holds of 'Cape Fear' to the right. Top out over the knobbly bulge, scary. FA: Daniel da Silva, 2007 | Umina | |||
V3 | ★ Hydraulic
Make a move to the lip then a tricky mantle. Cute Start: Start low from the obvious edge on the face. FA: Daniel da Silva, 2000 | Dark Forrest | |||
V3 | ★★ Big Rig
Lay off the crack using only the R/H wall to an interesting top out Start: Standing start at lay away crack FA: Daniel da Silva, 2000 | Woy Woy | |||
23 | ★ ? Flake
FA: Jason Piper | 8m | West Gosford | ||
23 | Getting Over It
1 Fixed hanger then 2 carrots. Start on L side of nose, then move R onto nose for easy arête climbing | 9m, 3 | West Gosford | ||
22 | ★★ Route to R of Rumba
Start: As for Rumba Veer right up wall to finish up the the right side of of the prominent overhanging block. | 12m, 4 | Blackwall | ||
22 | ★★ Bad Luck Silverback Variant
Start as for BLS. At the horizontal break at 3/4 height, traverse left along Cam break to join CBC and up via FH. | 14m, 2 | Joll's Bridge | ||
V3 | ★★ Original
Start as for cool ranch but instead of continuing to traverse right, finish by topping out earlier (far left of right hand side of boulder) FA: Gabriel Grimison | Bouddi National Park | |||
V3 | ★★ Annus Horribilis
5m left of sign post. Sit start with hands on nice big sloper. Straight up, taking care that little chicken heads don't break! | The Entrance Baths | |||
V3 | ★★ The only way out
Sit start matched on the prominent far left juggy edge, traverse right to the face before big move up to the arete then top out using small edges on lip. Block to the right is out. FA: Murray Taylor | 3m | Rumbalara boulders | ||
V2/3 | ★ Mars Bar
Start behind trees on lowest ledge and make your way up slightly left then up to top out. Crux is 2/3 of the way up. Crack is not in. FA: Mikhael D'indy | Bouddi National Park | |||
V3 | ★★ Yum Cha
Stand start between the obvious crack and rail features moving directly up and topping out. FA: Nathan Hingee | 3m | Point Clare | ||
23 | ★★ Crack 'n' Up
5m L of THC is an attractive vertical crack. Up this with wires and cams for 8mts before your first ring bolt. Crux. up to horizontal break ( a cam if you are worried) tending L to another ring bolt. Continue L to a short crack system (another cam or wire) then straight up passing two more rings. Double ring bolt anchor. rebolted 2016 | 30m, 7 | Joll's Bridge | ||
23 | ★★ I Luv Lucy Show
Beautiful arête with very solid rock starting off boulder on top of mini shelf. Mixture of RBs and FHs. Resistance climbing. | 9m | West Gosford | ||
V3 | ★★★ Mr Spacely
Climb the right hand arete from the low sit start to a big move at the top. FA: Daniel, 2000 | 4m | Woy Woy | ||
V3 | ★ Not So Fat Jack
Crouch start on the sloper on the lip of slab. Move up to the flake and then top the same as Fat Jack. FA: Jack Folkes, 19 Sep 2016 | 2m | Koolewong | ||
22 | ★★ Salt and Pepper Squid
Up the first 2 bolts of Calamari to big break, then left along break to finish up Beautiful Box. FA: Tm Haasnoot | 12m | Bouddi National Park | ||
22 | ★★ Eternity
Starts at overhand 3 R of Pearly Gates. Move L and follow U-bolts to interesting top move Set: Paul Riviere FA: Paul Riviere, 2007 | 12m, 6 | West Gosford | ||
22 | ★ Plate of the Day | 13m, 7 | Bouddi National Park | ||
23 | ★ Georges Daughter
| 8m | Bouddi National Park | ||
22 | ★★ Pete The Pilling Pelican
Starting 2m from the left arete, out through the steep cave. FA: Tim Haasnoot, 2008 | 7m | Koolewong | ||
22 | ★ Slopy pocket carrots
Stem up cornerto slopey ledge then run out past 3rd carrot to single U anchor. | 11m | Umina | ||
V3 | ★ gotta catch em all
At the far right side of the rear face. start low matched on the first jug edge, traverse the crimpy edge all the way until it fades out, from here move out left to the good edge before gaining the lip to mantle FA: Murray Taylor | 4m | Rumbalara boulders | ||
V3 R | ★★ Christopher Reeve Memorial
Start low on a good hold then climb up and left via a big move before a hairy top out above the block. Do not blow the top out, please be careful Start: Low start behind Large fallen bloc FA: Jason Piper, 2000 | Woy Woy | |||
V3/4 | ★★ The long way out
Start matched on the far most left juggy rail in the middle of the big cave. Traverse right before meeting up with "the only way out" and finish as this problem FA: Murray Taylor | 8m | Rumbalara boulders | ||
V3 | ★★ Mr Gaston
Left hand end of wall. Up, right and up avoiding the crack and block, finish as TOE. FA: Jason Smith, 2000 | Bouddi National Park | |||
V3 | ★★ Sand In My Pocket
Sit start at the foot ledge then head up and left a bit past the round pocket to OK topout FA: Jason Smith, 11 Sep 2021 | 3m | Berrys Head |