Ascensões em North East por Scott Godwin

Tried it because we had the rope there. Really nice moves up to an impossible finish.

Had a play on top rope. Need a lot more finger strngth to make it any sort of realistic proposition.

Harder (and sharper and more painful) than in looks. Might be easier than 25, but it hurts at least that much.

Dogged to the third bolt. Worked out the bouldery lower section. Lowered off and went again to the anchors on top rope. All the hard moves are very doable in isolation, but linking them will take some work.

Hard

So hard. The moves seem fairly obvious, but I couldn't do them.

Played around on top rope. Nails hard foot swap/body tension thing.

Holy moly. No idea what to do in the middle section. Danny was a magician.

Had a play on top rope. Figured out most of the moves, but I definitely don't have the crimp endurance to link them at the moment.

Still nowhere near enough crimp endurance for this one.

Top rope reconnaissance because I'm a wuss. Did all the moves. Would be a pretty comitting lead. The carrots look good, not sure about the gear in the middle. Great thin and pumpy climbing after the horizontal break.

Nails. Couldn't stick the barndoor to the mingen sloping crimp at the bottom, then couldn't figure out how to move off said mingen sloping crimp once I got there.

Top rope solo. Still not feeling great today. Found the moves very hard. I think I've got a long way to go before I can put this one together.

Seconding Isaac. Better climbing and gear than it looks. Did all the climbing without any falls but had a couple of sits to fiddle the wires out. Might come back to lead this one.

Still hard. No surprises there.

Climbed to fouth bolt but couldn't make the clip. Took a couple of slightly awkward falls from there and ended up with sore ribs from my harness. The climbing felt ok though, just need to work out that clip.

Gave myself a good thrashing on this with Nate. Eventually worked it all out. Will be back for the clean lead for sure. Super fun campus traversing, smearing, toe hooking, heel hooking, finished off with a difficult span/mantle thing at the end. Maximum value for such a short route.

Another top rope solo session. I think I have the clipping stances and crux sequence figured out. Still feels very hard, but I suppose I should have a crack on lead.

Feeling weak and useless today. Still recovering from the session on Orient Express the day before. Couldn't even stick the moves between the first two bolts. Isaac cleaned it up second shot.

A couple of burns with Nate. Worked out a better sequence, but the toe hooks were upsetting the flakey hip flexor.

Aided up this first to get a top rope on it. The first couple of wire placements are pretty marginal. Third one (about 5m up) is good, then the rest of the gear is good. Protection for free climbing would be very problematic in the first few metres.

Great moves, but I'm not going to be in a hurry to lead this one.

First time back in a while.

Closest shot yet. Got all the way to the slopey jug at the third bolt but peeled off trying to reach the arete.

Made it to the slopey jug again but got the rope behind my elbow. Off again. Getting closer.

Warmup and getting the draws on.

Sendage.

Awkward bouldery start.

Took turns working it on lead with Nate until I was completely stuffed. He's much closer to doing it than me, but it didn't quite happen this time. I think I have a good sequence now. Must remember the little footers out left.

4 shots. Getting much closer.

One fall at the 4th bolt

Done.

Unsend. Turns out that a month of climbing big walls followed by six weeks of sitting on your arse eating custard is not a good way to maintain finger strength.

Really good. Worth coming back for.

Tried to go ground up but got completely shut down by the high step/rock over move at the crux. Aided through and had a few goes on top rope, but still couldn't manage it. Doable by reaching out left into Roxanne, but that seems like cheating.

Hard. Fell off at the second bolt, and the third. Running out of daylight so I used a devious brass nut to aid through to last bolt.

Took turns to work it with Dave and Phil. None of us could find a solution to the last section above the third bolt. Way harder than it looks from the ground.

Harder than it looks. Struggled to place the gear while laybacking. Did all the moves but had to sit a couple of times and use some aid climbing tricks to place the gear. Worth coming back to.

Had a play on top rope after Isaac cruised the lead. I can see how it goes, but the shoulder didn't like the gaston at the crux.

Had a play on top rope again. Too tired to make that bouldery crux move.

Couldn't find a solution to the blank looking section just above the second bolt. Fell about ten times before giving up and aiding through. Still couldn't work it out on top rope afterwards, and neither could Mike, Rob or Dave. The rest of it is great, sustained and classy, with some long moves that would be very hard for short people. Exciting cranking between the second and third bolts. One to come back for.

Top rope solo. Figured out the sequence for doing the crux direct, but couldn't do the move without tension from the rope. Mantling the ledge to the left works, but feels like cheating.

Still hadn't managed this on top rope the week before, but got the clean lead first go today using Dave's beta for the crux. Much better that way.

Repeat to make sure that it wasn't a fluke. Felt pretty solid. Dave got his redpoint after a few falls at the crux too.

Decided to try this one on top rope first rather risk the dodgy fall from above the second bolt. Very bad feet through the cruxy bit between second and third bolts. Feels very insecure. The top crack is awesome.

Top roped because the rope was there. Should have gone for the onsight instead. Nice climbing.

I wanted to clean this one up after flashing it on toprope the other day. Climbed clean all the way to the last bolt, then thanks to my crap memory for beta I forgot that there was a huge jug up there to clip from. I managed to get the draw on then faffed around for ages getting pumped on crappy sideways slopers before pulling on the draw. Annoying.