Vias em Western Australia para uma graduação selecionada

On the lower tier below the roof boulder are some good features for warming up. Problems from V0-V5ish. About 6 or 7 problems from memory...

Sit start at the base of the well featured face. Gently overhanging climbing on good pockets.

Up slab to the right of the descent for "Gold". Mind your back. Crack is out.

Stand start with two slopers. Chuck a right heel and up.

Stand start with the next juggy feature along then up. Rad.

Awkward sit. Harder than it looks...although maybe there's an easier way?

Sit start with good hold and low feet, top out trending right to good flake.

Stand start and up obvious vertical cracks with long moves. A bit high but very cool. https://youtu.be/RbDt9IPkQ1o?t=9

Sit start as for 'Raised With Sporks'. Head right, but then straight up before the second diagonal rail. A tad contrived.

Up the middle of the highball face with the obvious crack (optional sitter). https://youtu.be/V9MTsGop4ZQ?t=14

Sit start on the vague right arete avoiding the boulder to the right. Up with slopey holds. Weird

Sit start. Straight up the middle of the wall into an easy top.

Sit start with crimp and sidepull. Up through slopey holds. A bit weird

Start on low holds - right hand juggy feature and left hand on low slopey edge. Straight up.

Start on the left and traverse the flake right then straight up.

Sit start. Low left hand on good edge and right and sloper. Pretty awkward...

Sit start Right hand side pull left hand good crimp. Awkward.

Sit start, up flake/crack.

Sit start as for 'arete' but trend right into the stand.

Located on the waterside boulder and best tried on low tide/swell. Sit start in cave on obvious rail, traverse right into a pumpy layback sequence that leads to jugs. Rad!

Awkward sit start on obvious flake, up to the jug then you may as well traverse right for a few moves.

Sit start with good holds and awkward feet.

Stand start on obvious crimp up high on the face. Up to the lip. If you are shorter it will be a jump start and closer to V3.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=odNp6mmIgkk

Stand start with crimp on the face.

Stand start with right hand undercling and left hand jug.

Stand start on crimps. Smear and mantle your way up the arete and onto the slab..

Sit start in the crack. Up the slopey bulges to topout straight up.

Sit start on the right with right hand on obvious arete pinch. The original sitter. Adds a couple of harder moves on small holds.

Stand start. Up the slabbiest section of the boulder. Gets thin up high! https://youtu.be/hnhmankwUhs?t=90

Stand start, up the obvious crack.

Sit start at the base of the obvious overhanging prow. Slap up to glory and an easy top out. Short and sweet - an instant classic!

Something something Danger Zone. Massive

Up the round arete. Don’t use the bail scoop on the left.

Easy line on the left

Sit start low and up to topout directly. Fun.

Sit start on the low flake - bust up to large obvious jug at the base of the slab - mantle then straight up. Cool feature. Keep and eye on the swell!

Sit start and squeeze your way up and over into the slab. Cool feature

Sit start. Up through sandy rounded jugs to topout.

Sit start with left hand in the scoop and right hand low on the slopey dome-like hold. Come up through the face avoiding going all the way left to join 'Warming up #2' (this link earns you V1). A bit contrived but fun when done in the right spirit.

Left variant, a tad harder

start on low SDS dodgy flake. (Don't break this!) pop up to gain the diagonal feature and follow up right to top out.

Start as 'The Graduate' but traverse left on good holds into a slopey top.

Sit start left hand fingerlock and right hand low in the obvious hold. Up to the slopey lip and top out.

Stand Start. Thin face left of the crack

Awkward sit start with right hand on jug around the corner (mind dabbing the boulder behind you!). Fun slab-mantle to finish.

Start one hand on low crimp rail and one hand on the high crimp. Work your way straight up to the ledge for an easy top out. Hardest part is not dabbing!

Technical crimp face.

Sit start on obvious RH minijug and left hand sidepull jug. Compress up feature to dicey top moves. Easier if you're taller!

Starting on the horn on the outside procede under arch and then out through the hole.

As twins left but exit right.

Starting in undercling jug under hole move through jugs and exit left.

Up the high slab. Also probably the way down?

Well featured wall to warm up on. About 6 problems V0-V3 across the face.

Take a thread too. Tricky move L toward top.

This route is a real ball tearer. Start at the base of the overhung crack just up from the end of the ramp. 6BR to DBB. Climb strongly up placing a1½ and then a 2½ Friend in the crack. Climb further up the crack again into the runnel with strong moves to clip the FB in the vertical runnel. Rock into the runnel with string moves. Surprisingly good friction in the runnel to gain the third bolt. Rising right traverse across the slab and wall above with really pleasant friction work. M. Rosser 27 Dec 07

https://www.climberswa.asn.au/topic/mount-roe-another-chapter-in-the-dangerous-book-for-boya-boys/

A place you go to practice being the best person you can be. Start about 35 metres up from the end of the ramp on top of two small blocks. 7BR to DBB. Steeper than it looks but there are intermittent good holds and edges. Climb gingerly up right to FB then straight up on small edges and high steps with much friction work. Delicate move over the horizontal break, particularly if your heart is pumping. Steep fractioning up the final runnel. M. Rosser, J. Truscott 27 Dec 07

https://www.climberswa.asn.au/topic/mount-roe-another-chapter-in-the-dangerous-book-for-boya-boys/

Superb face climbing. Small edges and long moves past the first 2 bolts make this climb excellent. The crux is pulling through the final overlap.

Enjoyable and sustained slab climbing. 10 ring bolts and a couple of large cams for the overlaps.

A bit different to the other Mount Frankland climbing!

1. 25m (21): Ape out roof on natural pro to difficult moves on around lip and onto wall using 3 bolts. Belay below upper slab using a thread and crack. Can be easier to rap to bolts and belay from there.

2. 30m (12): Either climb slab to obvious flake (1 bolt), or solo just left of flake to top.

As for 'Three Sheep Twice a Day' to its second bolt, then trend right up a poorly-protected seam. Finish as for Butter Fingers.

This wall is not quite as blank as it looks. Strenuous and insecure moves gain the 2nd BR, then pull over the bulge on good holds and reach R to clip 3rd BR. Traverse R to twin black streaks (skid marks) and then up past two more BRs. Small/medium cams for the top, same finish as for Crystallography. FA: Jon Gregg, Ross Weiter, Apr 02

An excellent technical face climb up the pocketed face right of Cardiac Arete. Difficulties increase as one gets higher. 5 BRs and DBB belay up the far side of the water runnel. To descend, walk west to cairn, then to the right, down bushy gully and slab. This descent is not possible in wet conditions.

Start at big crack then follow diagonal left then diagonal right into middle of slab then straight up from there. Not bolted yet top rope only

From small rocky bay on Western end of cliff walk approx. 100 m along ledges to a big'V'. (1) Start at 'V' and climb slabby, triangle shaped wall cris-crossed by fissures to bushy ledge. Scramble up grassy 10 m section to base of headwall. (2) Up 15 m along another series of cracks, the last of which is a beautiful finger crack through an orange band of rock (crux). When horizontal break is reached traverse left for 5 m and set up hanging belay. (3) Further traverse to the left then up prominent and steep (but chuggy) ‘nose’.

Climb the thin face past three bolts just right of the belay to a tricky move before the horizontal break. Finish up the hand crack and wall above.

The Last Goodbye, Ronald Master, Ian Johnson, Gd 21, two pitches 55m, 13 glue in bolts (hangers needed) two DBB Approach: Walk to the mincer and at the top of the long face you will find two P bolts in the centre of the face between the Mincer and Striptease. Abseil from these down to a large ledge about 10m above the water with a double bolt belay. You will need a full rack of cams up to number 5 camelot including some micros plus a set of wires up to size 6 or 7 rocks. Pitch 1, 25m, gd 19, 8 bolts. Start from the ledge and launch up the wall following a series of in-cut edges and flakes. Head straight up the wall following the flakes and bolts up solid rock with some interesting and fairly sustained moves. Aim for the belay station slightly to right of the alcove. Pitch 2, 30m, gd 20, 5 bolts. Move up and slightly left into the beautiful hand/finger crack. Several good wires and cams can be place before clipping the bolt about 10m up. The crux is found at the top of the crack where a couple of long dynamic moves are needed to gain a good hold. Trend slightly left into the horizontal break and another good cam placement before clipping the next bolt. Move up the wall on slopping holds before clipping another bolt and some good cams. Move over easier ground clipping two more bolts as you go and a couple of cams.

South Coast Rock description could be wrong. See update from first ascender:

* Better Than Chocolate (75m, 21) – correction of route description from email by Scott Camps, May 2013: I clarify a route I climbed at West Cape Howe back in 1993 Better Than Chocolate which I then graded 19. It is incorrectly reported in Shane Richardson’s South Coast Rock guide to the left of its actual position. When it should have actually been described as the shallow finger crack corner immediately to the right of description in the guide, then ascends the middle of the beautiful chocolate wall left of The Mincer. In 2006 I repeated this route and believed it to be more like 21 but was appalled to find it had been mindlessly retro bolted?

Seven bolts and a few bits of gear. Similar to Planar Craving but climb on right side of slab. Excellent finish up the steep headwall.

Classic! Climb up steepening slab using small cracks and flakes for protection. This climb gets harder as you get higher. Finish at hanging DBB.

Start as for Horizontal Refreshment but continue right at the top.

From the belay ledge at the base of the old man go up the inside corner and onto the face continuing to a short vertical crack at the top. Well protected with a few small wires and small to medium cams

Bold line up middle of South Face. Start on left side of Stirling Terrace at shallow corner/crack about 10m left of obvious crack of On the Lee Side.

Pitch 1 (20) 24m: Climb shalllow crack/corner to small ledge then left across face to a thin crack and belay bellow arrowhead.

Pitch 2 (21) 40m: From arrowhead climb difficult moves to jugs and continue up corner and crack (watch for loose block around halfway). Belay in double cracks.

Pitch 3 (17) 38m: Continue for 20m to good ledge and finish on right side of corner with tree belay.

A fantastic route with a mix of face and crack climbing.

(1) 30m 21: Balancy moves past first bolt to gain crack. Continue up crack until its end and clip bolt on face above and traverse left to another bolt. Gain scoop and run it out up the left trending, juggy weakness to RB and past final RB to ledge.

(2) 25m 15: Walk left on ledge and climb out as for Long Time Coming.

Fantastic, steep and exposed climbing out to and up an arete above the thrashing southern ocean. Starts at the base of Discovery Chimney. Stem up and clip the first bolt, then climb up past a second bolt to huge flakes. Chuck in some gear and head right to an outrageous perch on a hanging flake. Suck in some air, clip the third bolt and pull the crux. Depending on how the sea, exposure and pounding of your heart has affected you, getting in the small gear post crux could be exciting. Follow the line of weakness to the top. 3 bolts and a standard rack (small cams to #2 camalot and wires). Trad belay anchor.

Up prominent crack which thins to pinky finger locks. When fingers displace the gear, follow the three bolts to the top. Classic moves and holds just where you need them. Single rack down to very small gear required (blue alien). In the upper section it feels like you can fall off any move.

Belay at your abseil anchor (bolt and trad)