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Vias como trad em Coal Mines Cliff

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Mostrando os 44 vias.

Grade Via Estilo de equipamento Popularidade
15 Cardiff Rose
Trad 48m
18 March Fly Mayhem
Trad 51m
20 Blue
Trad 50m
18 Spaghetti Western

FA: Andrew Penney & Mike Stacey, 1986

Mixed trad 55m, 2, 14
20 Khe Sanh

A great slab, finishing at rap chains at 2/3 height. Mostly bolts but a medium cam and a long sling for a thread at the top are needed at minimum to make it safe.

FA: Andrew Penney & Craig Sloss, 1986

Mixed trad 25m, 6
22 Dien Bien Phu

Thin. Joins into the same finish of Khe Sanh at the halfway point (same medium cam and sling for thread required)

FA: Mike Stacey & Dana Houser, 1986

Mixed trad 25m, 6
14 Absolutely Sweet Marie

Major left facing corner crack. There is a rap chain halfway (rusty and not glued-in, but made of ~7 bolts). All the webbing at the top has melted through from the fires, and the trees are dead and dodgy, best option is walk around 10m to large living tree well back from the edge.

Be EXTREMELY CAREFUL of knocking rocks loose from the top (you will no matter how careful you are), the soil is incredibly loose (Mid-2020).

FA: Rohan Reynolds & Pete Taylor, 1977

Trad 58m, 3
19 Positively 4th Street

First half is some nice finger/hand jams but over the lip and after it gets real chossy unless you come out to the left arete in the latter third of the climb.

Trad 43m
18 Monitor Madness

A long excellent pitch up an aesthetic curving arete that is mostly bolt protected. Bring a single set of cams between finger/fist size and a couple of long slings. Start on the little ledge above the ground. At the top belay off carrots - to descend walk 10m right to chains around large tree (50m rap - two ropes required).

Mixed trad 50m, 8
20 Thin Lipped
Trad 50m
19 Fat Lipped
Trad 45m
19 Max Bygraves
Trad 50m
18 XTC
Trad 50m
20 Full Tilt

great climbing

FA: M.Stacey, L.mcmanus & A.Penney, 1986

Trad 55m, 2
16 Conspiracy

THE big corner on the left side of the main wall. Apart from the grunty start it's got a surprising amount of similarly graded climbing the whole way. Its a nice long single pitch if you have enough rack.

It is also posssible to exit traverse to the chains on Barten's efforts below the top. If you top out you can rap about 5m from a tree at the top of the cliff to the chains.

Trad 45m, 2
20 Paranoid Neighbours

very close to conspiracy, good climbing

FA: M.Stacey & L.Mcmanus, 1986

Trad 50m
20 Barton's Effort

Great sustained face climbing.Start up ramp at BE initials to horizontal (med slcd's) then onto face and up passing 7FH's and one BR , veering right at top to original chains and u-bolt. Rebolted Sept. 2014 (previously 8mm dynas).

FA: Tony Barten, Noel Ward, Mike Peck & Joe Lynch, 1985

Mixed trad 35m, 8
22 Crossing The Rubicon
Trad 38m
20 TDM

One of the better finger cracks in the Wolgan. A superb climb following an excellent line on good rock. For the full tick you need to go to the tree anchor at the top which makes the route about 35m. If you only have a 60m rope though you can step left along the ledge to the bolted chains and miss out on some exciting moves above. From the ledge it's 31m to the ground - so a 60m just reaches on stretch.

Trad 35m
22 Plug In Drug
Trad 47m
24 Mastodon
Trad 25m
21 Tranzister

Superb technical climbing up a amazing line that is really quite outrageous. Very sustained throughout but well protected.

Look for the rap chains 3m to your left about 5m below the top. There is another set of chains 5m above (!), at the topout.

Trad 40m
23 A Stage Coach Full of Feathers and Footprints

FA: John Smoothy & Mike Stacey, 1986

Trad 60m, 2
22 Red Hot 'n' Blue

A bloody beaut. Takes a lovely line up a big wall. Needless to say the rock is superb and clean.

Trad 54m
24 White Hot
Trad 50m
25 Continuum
Trad 47m
18 Transformer
Trad 56m
18 Luba the Baroness
Trad 55m
18 Ride With Ya Daddy
  1. 27m to belay ledge (3BB).

  2. 31m Exposed traverse right then follow the bolts up to tree belay.

Each pitch has 5 bolts. Descend from rap above Helzapoppin

Mixed trad 58m, 2, 8
16 Blue Vein
Trad 50m
17 Bare Essence
Trad 45m
17 Helzapoppin

Good, well protected wall climbing. Take wires and small to medium cams.

Trad 45m
20 The Val Doonican Show
Trad 48m
21 Meu Filho
Trad 30m
20 Frodo
Trad 51m
19 Bilbo Baggins
  1. 33m up choss and finger crack/corner to tree belay.

  2. 18m desperately L and up into corner

Trad 51m, 2
15 Tupelo Honey
Trad 42m
16 Subterranean Homeseck Blues
Trad 54m
18 Fringe Benefits
Trad 45m
20 Rapid Transit
Trad 55m
14 Sour Plum
Trad 55m
11 Last Year's Man
Trad 30m
21 Little Meanie
Trad 25m
15 Just Gorgeous
Trad 88m

Mostrando os 44 vias.

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