Vias em Italy para uma graduação selecionada

a mix of bolts and rock tunnels and a few pegs for protection at moderate distances. bring only quickdraws. the last long pitch can be split by building an anchor at a solid tree in case you don't want to deal with too much rope drag.

A few pitons and some rope tied through rock tunnels. Each belay has 1 bolt + a tree or rock tunnel. No trad gear needed except extra slings, but a few medium/large nuts would reduce the often long run-outs.

After passing the Lokomotiv, go along the southwest wall of the First Tower until you reach a recess, with pillars on the right and left. The route runs along the evident dihedral slightly inclined to the right.

1. Scramble up slightly loose rock to the base of the prominent Trenker Crack. Anchor on pitons, to the left of the crack immediately after the small vertical section. (30m, III)

2. Climb the slightly right-trending crack. Before the crack becomes vertical, traverse 2-3 to the right to a small ledge with the anchor (1 big glue-in bolt). (35 m, IV-)

3. Climb over the easy overhang above the belay, then slightly left to the dihedral. Follow the dihedral, past a steeper polished section protected by a bolt, until you reach a good belay on a ledge. (1 bent glue-in bolt + 2 pitons). (35m, V+)

4. Follow the dihedral up, to the right of the small column, following the slightly polished crack. Continue until the next belay (1 glue-in bolt). (35m, III+) 1 piton.

5. 2 options for this pitch:

a) Head up a couple of metres before leaving the crack and traversing diagonally right up an easy slab to a large ledge. Anchor on two glue-in bolts in the middle of the ledge.

b) Continue up the crack to the top before stepping out right on the ledge, belay on two pitons, OR belay on the right of this directly under the chimney of the final pitch (2 glue-in bolts). (25m, IV-)

1. Traverse another 2-3 meters to the right on the ledge, then follow the yellowish rocks up the chimney to the top. From here, via easy rocks, exit onto the wide ridge that leads to the top of the tower and the anchor (1 glue-in bolt). (30m, IV-) 2 pitons

2. Optional to reach summit: Follow the path to the left to reach the summit of the 1st Sella Tower. (40m, I)

Descent:

a) Abseil from summit: To the right of the saddle between 1st/2nd towers, follow the ridge ~30m to an abseil (40m).

OR

b) Descent by the "Via Normale" From the summit, follow the obvious path that leads to the saddle between the First and Second Sella Towers, then continue around the 2nd Tower, following the rock piles/cairns.

At a crossroads, take the path that turns right down the steep gully towards the valley. There are points where downhill climbing is required, never higher than II.

Here, the abseil and the Via Normale join up again. Shortly before the base of the wall, the trail separates to the left and right. To the right, there are two abseil anchors (top 35m, bottom 25m). To the left there is a downclimb (grade II).

Once at the base, follow the path to the right to return to the parking lot.

This is a newer variant of Via Argo. It climbs cleaner and with less vegetation.

Takes a line up the centre of the 3rd Tower with a steep crack leading to the crux overhang above the big ledge at 2/3 height.

Utile qualche kevlar e frend per integrare http://www.planetmountain.com/Rock/vie/itinerari/scheda.php?lang=ita&id_itinerario=1586&id_tipologia=38

Another TOPO at https://www.bergsteigen.com/touren/klettern/der-koenig-des-sees-il-re-del-lago/

Bolts and rock tunnels, some frineds and slings are recommended two sequences with VI option to add another pitch with two versions (right: nice groove, left: hard and very alpine bolted groove, but nice climb! Mind the rope drag, use super long slings) http://www.klettern-sarcatal.com/linda.htm

https://www.bergsteigen.com/touren/klettern/via-linda-arco/

5 obl.

Starts left of Via Caino e Abele and crosses this route after the first pitch. Relatively "green&brown" route but the rock parts are still nice to climb. The difficult parts are very well protected with bolts.

splendid crack line with crux at the top, just before reaching the SW-edge

Tourbeschreibung von der Erstbegehung: Große Zinne 3003m Erste Aufstieg über die Westwand: Walter F. b. Bernuth und Hans Dülfer am 18. August 1913.

Die westlichen Begrenzungskanten der Nord und Südwand flankieren eine verhältnismäßig schmale, von mächtigen überhängen durchzogene, senkrechte Wandflucht. Den Durchstieg durch diesen, über 200 Meter hohen, gelben Abbruch vermittelt eine etwa 150 Meter lange, rißdurchzogene Verschneidung, welche die Wand in ihrem südlichen Drittel bilden. - Von der westlichen Zinnenscharte nach links aufwärts und schließlich zu dem kleinen Schuttfeld unmittelbar unter dem senkrechten Wandabbruch der Verschneidung. Hier links zwischen einem Zacken und der Wand 5 Meter aufwärts; dann rechts steil 5 Meter hinan, bis man auf schmaler Leiste 4 Meter nach links querrend den Beginn eines gelben feinen Risses erreicht. Durch ihn senkrecht ungefähr 6 Meter hinauf zu einem Absatz. Rechts um eine abgesprengte Platte herum und über eine Rampe schräg rechts aufwärts zu einem kurzen Band. Oberhalb eines am Boden befindlichen Sicherungshakens äußerst schwierig über die 8 Meter hohe gelbe und senkrechte Wandstelle zu einem zweiten Band, das sich unmittelbar under dem Beginn der erwähnten Verschneidung befindet. In ihr mit Benutzung des Risses ungewöhnlich schwierig 12 Meter aufwärts unter einen kleinen Überhang der rechten Seitenwand. Über ihn hinweg und in der überhängenden Verschneidung weitere 12 Meter ungewöhnlich schwierig hinan unter einen Überhang der linken Seitenwand, der durch einen mächtigen, anscheinend losen Block gebildet wird. Noch 12 Meter äußerst schwierig aufwärts zu einem Stand (Sicherungshaken) oberhalb eines Klemmblockes. Höhe der in einem Stück zu durchkletternden, größtenteils überhängenden Stelle vom „zweiten Bande“ etwa 40 Meter. Nun etwas leichter 5 Meter aufwärts unter einem großen Überhang, äußerst schwierig über ihn hinweg und nach 6 Meter zu einem Stand (Sicherungshaken etwas höher). Ein ungefähr 10 Meter hoher Kamin leitet unter einen großen, schon von unten gut sichtbaren eingeklemmten Block. Durch ein enges Loch hinter ihm zu einem Geröllfeld unter der sich nun bedeutend erweiternden Fortsetzung des Kamins. In ihm an eingeklemmten Blöcken vorbei etwa 25 Meter spreizend aufwärts zu einem Absatz. In einem brüchigen Einriß links noch 6 Meter hinan zu einem Band. Etwas nach rechts und durch einen 15 Meter hohen Riß auf das nächsthöhere Band. Nun über einen Überhang hinauf und rechts durch eine Geröllrinne auf den Westgrad, über den man öfters rechts ausweichend den Gipfel erreicht. - Der lange Riß dürfte fast immer naß sein. Normale Zeit etwa 5 Stunden. Eine der schwersten uns bekannten Dolomittouren.

(Veröffentlicht im Jahresbericht 1913 der Alpenvereinsektion Bayerland)

This variation goes direct through roof/corner system on P3 (protected by new-ish looking piton).

A few pitons and some rope tied through rock tunnels. Each belay has 1 bolt + a tree or rock tunnel. No trad gear needed except extra slings, but a few medium/large nuts would reduce the often long run-outs.

To find the start: Park at the Pizzeria Lanterna (and grab a beer there after) and head S on the road ~150 m until you see a path. Then head up and to the left until you hit the wall, then head left. The route is after Caldo Inverno and La Cengia Rossa and the scrambly start is marked in red and black paint.

Cima Catanaccio (Rosengartenspitze), 2918m, VI-

6-,5,5,6-,5,4+,5,4-

The first route opened in Val di Mello according to the Val di Mello guidebook published by Versante Sud (2004 edition).

The route is located a few meters to the left a river/waterfall descending from the mountains and it starts on the right side of a cave on a dihedral leading up to another cave.

1. 30m (5) Dihedral on the right side until you reach a terrace at the beginning of a cave or chimney like structure.

2. 25m (5+) A 2m vertical face towards the chimney (one piton), through the chimney. Belay on a tree after the chimney.

3. 25m (5) Follow the vertical cracks to the top.

Descend on foot to the left following a clear trail.

https://www.planetmountain.com/Rock/vie/itinerari/scheda.php?lang=ita&id_itinerario=303&id_tipologia=38

http://quartogrado.com/volume2_1/relazioni/LAGAZUOI_Maurizio%20Speciale.htm

https://www.casa-alfredino.co.uk/alpine-climbing/m-speciale-piccolo-lagozuoi-vi/

Riss mit hellem Stein (neu bolts in engem Abstand)

Via sportiva a tratti alpinistica. 180 metri di sviluppo per 7 tiri. Difficoltà massima 5a o 6b con variante al secondo tiro. Via attrezzata a spit e soste attrezzate,possono essere utili integrazioni con friends, nuts o cordini.

A very repeated classic route at Rocca pendice, fully bolted, follows a logical line of dihedrals and cracks in the southern corner of Rocca. The starting pillar on L4 is beautiful, above the difficulties of the route. 5 total pitches. From 'attacchi' sector, east wall, continue to the left. Immediately after the start of 'via Carugati', take the obvious and steep canal, go up it a few meters, cross it with a step of III and you reach the terrace where the route starts.

https://www.falesia.it/multipitchroute/45/spigolo-barbiero.html

First 3 pitches of Pincelli-Brianti then, at the balcony, proceed up vertically

The Primo Spigolo (First Edge) climbing route is a classic climbing route on Tofana di Rozes in the Tofane Range of the Dolomites, Italy. It is considered one of the most sought-after climbs in the region. The Primo Spigolo follows the prominent ridge on the southwest face of Tofana di Rozes, offering a thrilling and exposed climbing experience.

The Primo Spigolo route requires technical climbing skills and experience, as it involves steep rock faces, exposed sections, and challenging moves. The climbing difficulty is graded V, which translates to a challenging and demanding climb.

The route is characterized by its excellent rock quality, with solid and compact Dolomite limestone. Climbers can expect a combination of face climbing, chimney climbs, and exposed ridge traverses, all of which add to the excitement and adventure of the climb.

The Primo Spigolo climbing route on Tofana di Rozes offers not only a physically demanding climbing experience but also stunning panoramic views of the Dolomite peaks and valleys. Source Powrock

https://www.planetmountain.com/english/rock/dolomites/itineraries/scheda.php?lang=eng&id_itinerario=277&id_tipologia=38

https://verticalage.blogspot.com/2018/01/val-di-ledro-nuova-via-alla-regina-del.html?m=1

This route can be perfectly combined with "Variante, Via del Gufetto, Superiore" A set of friends and nuts is highly recommended. Topos can be found here: https://www.bergsteigen.com/touren/klettern/via-del-gufetto-parete-dell-ir/ (German) or https://www.arrampicata-arco.com/via-del-gufetto.html (Italian)

Via parzialmente attrezzata, da integrare con friend medi, grandi e dadi.

the leftmost route

Guglia Edmondo de Amicis is located near Lake Misurina. Bolted stands and crux move (VI- / 3rd pitch). Descent by abseiling.

Spit un po lunghi

La via non ha nome nè è indicato il grado. E' tuttavia perfettamente in ordine. Molto varia e divertente. Il grado è solo negli ultimi metri. Numero imprecisato di chiodi ma sicuramente almeno 16/18. Qualche rinvio si può facilmente recuperare o evitare.

A good, honest "sport route" in the dolomites. Fun climbing at the grade, very consistent 5a/b climbing with occasional tricky moves. Pretty runout at times, bolts are more "anti-death" than "anti-falling". Can be supplemented with .5-3 cams and some nuts.

Be careful on the white rock! Plenty of crumble struggling to free itself and try out gravity for style.

-more info to come-

8.

Descent: from the final belay, abseil 10m to the ridgeline. Scramble across (belay recommended) to the col of the pollice, and descend via the "Via Normale della Pollice".

Alternative descent: abseiling the route is possible, 2x 60m ropes recommended. To cross traverse pitch (p4), abseil from the top of p7 to make pendulum easier. Just go down

Beautiful climb in sound rock, some pitons in the route. It starts in the center of the north face.

https://www.ramellasergio.it/Testo/TORRI_SELLA/VIA_MESSNER/schizzovia_messner.html

Via alpinistica in un bellissimo diedro con qualche chiodo e spit da integrare. Soste su fix, con cordone e maglia rapida per la calata. Poddibile presenza di neve all'attacco fino a stagione inoltrata.

Al primo tetto va a destra per poi tornare lungo la via iniziale.

http://quartogrado.com/volume1_2/relazioni/TORRE%20EDWARDS_Gracchio_A.htm