Vias como sport em Waikato

Classic. Get onto wall in corner. Climb arete then onto steep overhanging wall on great holds. Mantle over top to anchors

Hard start. Move up through a few bulges on good holds. Hard finish. Careful clipping the anchors. Originally graded 17...

Climb is located to the left of the large scoop/cave at the base of the boulder. Start left of the bolts. Traverse right to the first bolt then straight up.

Bouldery start through the scoop. Then easy climbing to the top.( I believe the original name was Lunar Leper, because when Wayne cleaned it bits kept falling off)

A rad adventure through the bowels of the cliff. Originally run out trad, now fully retrobolted but really shines as a mostly-trad mixed route.

1. (17) Up the rough slab, a few balancy moves, then sneak into the start of the cave and belay. Gear available most of the way.

2. (16) Walk around the back of the cave, optionally build a trad anchor below the chimney or use hanger, then bridge up into the enticing darkness until you can exit via a small hole to a nice belay. Adequate gear can be found past the 2nd bolt.

3. (19) Straight up then over slabby ground, left past a small overlap then grunt through the top overhang on jugs. Decent protection can be arranged the whole way but bolts are right there if you want them.

Outstanding, best as one long pitch.

Pitch 1: (16) From the right of the belay ledge, climb up and move right to the arete after the 3rd bolt, continue up, stepping right to reach the ledge and DBC belay. (8b)

Pitch 2: (16) Move back left to the arete and continue up the balancy slab to the DBC belay. (7b)

Climb to the left of the arete on sharp pockets.

Work your way up the slab start to then test your confidence moving through the roof before a pumpy finish. A must do if you are visiting Waipari

Hard start leads to an slab to clip second bolt. Crux consists of a layback on minimal feet until a victory jug to clip from. Juggy from 3rd bolt to the anchor.

A classic for the grade. Head up the face and arete through super jugs to the anchor.

Climb up the slab in the middle of the wall using the left line of bolts after bolt 3. Big ledges and smoother sections as you go straight up, then head right at the top to the anchor.

"one of the best 15's in the North Island" - Bryce Martin.

Clear line following the bolts.

As good (or hard) a grade 16 as you'll find anywhere. Steep start to technical slab climbing the whole way to the top on spaced bolts.

A hard start and run out for the grade. Cams can be added between some bolts to help with the nerves, 2 x yellow and 1 x red are handy.

Tackle the middle of the pinnacle through steep and sustained moves, topping out on the right. One of the most popular climbs at Kawakawa Bay.

Climb just right of the arete on the slab with good holds.

Climb the corner past 3 bolts then gain the face. Follow the bolts to a traverse right. Gain the ledge for a belay. Crux at start and finish.

A cruisy multi-pitch climb with a sting in the tail

Pitch 1: (17) Head up the featured face, heading up and slightly left through the pockets. DBB. (25m)

Pitch 2: (14) A short pitch to the big dirt ledge. Walk right to access the next pitch. (10m)

Pitch 3: (17) Climb up the featured corner. Watch for some hollow blocks. (25m)

Pitch 4: (23) The sting in the tail. Commit yourself by stepping over the void before cranking through the hard overhanging moves. Take a rest in the cave before stepping left around the bulge and pulling hard to get to the top. (15m)

The first two pitches can be done in one with 15 draws.

Up the slabbly start to the overlap, then a crux and mantle that make this a hard onsight. It's far from over after that...

Directly up the striking arête in front of where the path from the camp meets the base of the wall. After the start, most of the climbing is to the right of the bolts, with many no-hands rests.

Up thru groove over bulge and crack to get to anchors awkwardly on facing wall.

Left most line of bolts on the main wall. Low angle slab, start up big holds and trending slightly left following the bolts, small traverse left then back right and up to the anchors on the face. DBR anchor.

Fantastic moves on well bolted, slightly overhung face climb, then over the arete to an easy slab top out.

Line of bolts up the middle of the right side of the slab face.

Pitch 1: (23) Up the smoothest part of the wall on small features to a ledge with an anchor on the vertical wall on the right.

Pitch 2: (20) Climb the left side of the wall, over the arete and up to the anchor. Pitches can be linked with a 60cm sling on the anchor of pitch 1.

Follow the bolts up, move right after the third bolt then straight up.

Goes directly up the wall, parallel to Miromiro, then trends slightly left to a separate anchor on the shorter section of the wall. Crux bulge has two options: direct (16) or out left to the original boulder problem (17).

Left of Moon Base Alpha, Hard fingery start, easier middle, and exciting finish.

Pitch 1: (17) Start up the very juggy slightly overhanging arete above the gully to a DBC anchor on the face. You can abseil off from here (10 bolts), or;

Pitch 2: (19) Climb up and right on the face, move back left to the DBC anchor shared with Thunder God. (3 bolts)

Now 5-6 pitches right to the top.

1. [18, 9b] Wander up the arete to the D.B.C. of sunset ledge.

2. [15, 7b] Left into the corner then back right and up to reach the hand rope. Take that leftward.

3. [16, 8b] As for P2 of Mexican Americans to the big ledge below New Wave Wall.

4. [18, 8b] The leftmost line of bolts over bulges to belay below the wall left of the arete.

5. [20, 10b] Up the right traversing line of bolts around the corner to the arete, then up the arete to reach a ledge and anchor. Best clip this with a long sling and continue.

6. [14, 2b] A short easy pitch to the top. Walk off away from the cliff and up to the ridge track (pink tape). See better description above.

Adds a new start and finish to the original bolted arete of Don't Hurt my Kowhai. Start up the hand line left of Predator and take the rope leading left to reach the line of bolts in the gully.

Pitch 1: (18) Follow the bolts to any anchor above the kowhai tree. (20m, 10b)

Pitch 2: (18) Head up the bolted arete to the anchor. Head left along the hand line to the next pitch. Watch out for dropping anything on the people below you.

Best to combine pitches 1-2 (18 bolts)

Pitch 3: (18) Head up the wall onto the slab to the belay hidden in the shade. (15m, 6b)

Pitch 4: (18) Continue up the line of bolts, but be aware for whip potential. (13m, 6b)

Don't combine pitches 3-4, there is ledge fall potential and the belayer needs to see the leader. You can get down on a 60m with rope stretch from the top of pitch 2, but if unsure make your initial abseil from the top a bit longer to reach the ringbolt and chain hanger 5m further down.

Pitch 1: (19) Up the face and over boulders to a crux finger crack. Use the maillon of the anchor on the tree.

Pitch 2: (16) Traverse to the right to the belay station after climbing up the face. DBB.

Pitch 3: (19) Start in the bottomless chimney, traverse up and right and exit through the overhang, then leftward on a slab and face. DBB.

Pitch 4: (19) Straight up the face to the very top. 15 bolts. DBB.

Awesome climbing on big pockets up the steep wall to delicate slab and onto arete to anchors. Pumpy.

One of the more sustained routes on Slug Wall. Slab start leads to a rest half way up the route, with a pumpy finish.

Fun starts leads to the crux at the small bulge. Cruisy climbing from the ledge to the anchor.

Climb the short slab.

Starts on a short but technical slab which leads into the slightly overhung head wall. Technical sequences on good pockets leads to the crux just below the lip. Great climb for those wanting to push their grade.

Second bolt line from the arete, very featured wall at the base. Follow the bolts on good holds to a bit thinner section near the top then mantle to anchors. Climb the left hand arete at the top to keep to grade 17, or if you feeling it climb the face direct. I believe the 1st ascent went left at the top, using only 2 bolts and trad for the whole climb! DBC.

Slab to the left of Australia Boulder. Wet in the winter.

Pretty fun short climb. Slight overhang if started on the right of the first bolt, or a foot-focussed start on the left.

Amazing sustained climbing on awesome rock. Sloper edges lead to a technical crux. Veer left to finish.

Technical slab to start followed by layback off steep headwall.

Nice face climbing up to ledge. Layback off steep arete to get to anchors.

Classic, but a bit polished and technically challenging for 15.

Great arete climb. Up thru crack to start, thru short groove on to face. Move left then back right onto the arete and power up to mantle for anchors.

Fun climb, but almost impossible for the belayer to see what the climber is doing between bolts 3 and 6.

Great grade 16 corner climb. Crux is getting into the corner.

Climb up the vertical face on good pockets and fun climbing. Shares the same anchor with In The Club.

Another excellent grade 18 climb. Get up thru corner, mantle to ledge for tricky moves over bulge and on up to anchors.

Excellent grade 14 corner climb with good holds and airy climbing. Originally climbed on gear, and still can be.

Starts under obvious nose. Head left to horizontal break. Head right then finish up the face.

Good (and sometimes wet) pockets leads to an enjoyable finish.

Starts left of the arete, moving up the slab. There is an easier grade 16 RH start around the arete with 3 independent bolts.

Climb up the groove left of Tusla Time to the anchors on the rock face to your left.

Up into the scoop, tackle the overhanging bulge, continue up the blunt arete.

A powerful start to establish on the pinnacle leads to a slabby sequence to the top.

Slab start leads to a overhanging section on interesting pockets. Big move out left or straight up from the last bolt to the anchor.

Excellent grade 17. Cruise thru the lower face under the roof to get across left onto the arete.

Great climbing on good holds on the slab, then up the face to the anchor. Make sure to use your feet.

Nice climbing up vertical face to get into the groove (crux). Onto slab at top for a toe crunching experience you won't forget in a hurry.

Cool starts with thought provoking moves with a slightly challenging top.

Most right hand line of bolts. Climb the arete.

Easy 15 and great for first lead with bolts from ground up.

Slightly shorter than Firestarter, but similar style. Good moves on a slab that transitions into a slightly pumpy end.

Anchor bolts are above the corner from main face - quickdraw top-rope anchors have a risk of being tweaked over the corner. Be prepared to set up an alternative anchor type or use extra gear to keep your carabiners off of the corner.

Go up the face with interesting moves (can be bypassed by using the tree), good luck and have fun.

Up through the bulletproof looking face. Great moves on some cool pockets and edges. Second pitch can be done as multi-pitch practice from this climb or There's Wetas in my Porridge.

Excellent Grade 17 arete climb with good holds all the way. Crux is small overhang near the top.

Climb the crack/corner to the right of 'The Arches'. Follow the bolts straight up to belay below the roof.

Pockets are too worn now to rate any stars.

Excellent climb on good holds. Steep face to tricky corner.

Line to the left of Cowabunga.

Short slab on the tiniest of holds.

Crimps lower down on the slight overhang leads a mantle over the lip, with better holds the higher you go.

Delicate climbing on good pockets and jugs.

A more technical start than other routes on Slug Wall leads to a fun and feet dependent finish.

Go up the boulder start or use the hand jam on your right to gain the rest of the climb. Continue up and right through the slight overhang, pulling over onto the easy slab finish.

Start under the overhanging flake, taking the undercling and facing the boulder problem to the first bolt. Once established on the route, head right and make your way up the face up to the anchor.

Easy climbing up thru the caves to steep overhang at top.

A good first multi pitch with low consequence, easy moves and a good view.

Pitch 1: (15) A right-trending line that finishes at the big ledge. DBB. (3b)

Pitch 2: (15) Head up the slab, heading right after the third bolt. DBB. (3b)

Pitch 3: (14) Continue heading up the slab and past a ledge to the anchor. DBB. (4b)

Pitch 2 and 3 can easily be combined

Powerful start moves for the grade leads to a no hands rest, before a few hard moves to the top.

Originally trad and started from the left. The more direct bolted start is a little harder. Climb through the crack system to a large groove. Awesome finish in exposed position.

The direct line up the juggy face and overhang. Brilliant climbing. Recleaned in 2020 by Dan Pearl.

Climb up the overhanging boulder problem to the slab before climbing through the small roof. Powerful pumpy climbing.

Steep powerful climbing on pockets leads to an exciting finish. Stay on the face for the grade.

Runs up the central smooth part of the main wall, between Miromiro and Rise of the Sloths, follow the black bolt hangers. Finishes up the vertical groove with a technical second crux to keep you entertained. Originally graded as a hard 20, potentially a grade harder.

An easier variation start is possible by laybacking the crack out left to avoid all the slab crux moves. The top crux in the groove is grade 18 if you want to log this variation.

Great climb over jutting overhangs on good holds

Following the left curving line before heading through the slight overhang to the anchor.

Big moves leads to a good hold to clip and rest from before the pumpy moves waiting for you on the face, followed by a mantle onto the lip.

Great climb. Straight up shallow groove and arete, mantle across to ledge, then delicate moves back right and up to a ledge, continue up to the same DBC belay as Galapagos.

Starts in the cave at the top of the first pitch of Captain Caveman.

An awkward start move leads to easy climbing up the middle of the face past 3 hangers then mantle onto the large ledge (crux) and belay off the DBC belay. One of the nicest 14s around.

Climb the face left of Les Femmes et Les Grimpeurs A'bord

Left trending line, with hard, balancy crux move on steep ground

P1: (18) Follow the left line of bolts up the arete (9b, 25m)

P2: (21) The original Aliens pitch through the overhang and to the right (8b, 15m)

P3: (19) Continue up the headwall, past the anchor of Jugzilla to the top of the buttress (7b, 20m)

Balancey moves down low give way to easier slab climbing up above, anchors are the same as for Bitten By A Cobra.

Straight up next to the arete through steep overlaps, onto short face, and on up to anchors. Harder than you'd think. You can normally do a climb an easy way and a hard way. It's easy to make this climb a 19, Bryce originally graded this climb 18. You decide!